E90x HVAC Blower Motor Replacement
This DIY is meant to augment the Bentley repair manual for replacement of the heating/AC system blower unit for the E9x. The Bentley manual directions for replacement of the blower unit are totally screwed up and will make you take twice as long to...

does anyone know the part number for the black plastic piece (holds the 3 wires) that goes into the resistor, I just pleaced my blower motor and resistor and the wires are completely shot and melted...

Thanks to ENINTY and others for their contributions on this blower problem.

I have 2006 330xi and my fan stopped working completely. No heat, No AC, yet the digital display of the fan (low thru high) was still displaying.

I checked all of my fuses, which lead me nowhere. Next, I went after the blower unit while using ENINTY's notes as reference. I'd have to say that the directions are very clear. The only part that I got hung up on slightly was those 2 damn tabs on the blower that will stop you from turning the mechanism counter-clockwise.

Interestingly, now that I knew my fan was bad, I recall hearing screeching noises coming from the dashboard for the past few months. It also sounded like a windy bellowing at times then disappeared. This would happen for 1-2 seconds, then go away. It was perplexing.

After removing the blower, cleaning out some debris, and spraying some WD40 on the blower shaft, I was able to get my fan moving again. I re-installed it with a total cost of the job = $ 0.00.

I realize that my WD40 solution may very well have a limited life time but at least I know exactly what to do when the blower fails permanently.

Just to add to this, my fan started making the cricket sound as well only in AC and only in the 3 bar speed. Took the blower out and serviced as mentioned but then realized that the rusty shaft is completely visible through the hole when the cabin filter is removed. So, it may not be a bad idea to do a quick visual check thru there and if there is any rust on the shaft spray with lubricant. Used two straws taped together to reach in there and spray the shaft without getting it all over. Very clean and easy. Putting the plastic pieces of the ventilation system after blower servicing was a pita.

So I just did this fix, my blower was fine but I WD-40d the spindle anyway just to eek out some more life from it. Looked like it had gotten wet, and the soundproofing on the lower dash panel had a small water stain on it. The only part that was burned out was the FSU, which I got from the dealer for $88+tax, which was price matched to ECS price plus shipping. I couldn't wait - it is still hot in GA. Took longer to drive to get the part than to do the fix. Great tutorial!

My question is, how do I prevent water ingress again? My gutters and screens on either side of the cowl are clear. Is there something else I am missing that may be blocked up? My car is parked outside (THE HORROR!)... so come fall, the leaves get everywhere...

Thanks!

EDIT: Oh also, with a little finesse, I was able to remove the blower/FSU assembly without fully removing the lower ducting which saved a big headache and some time. If you just loosen the duct off of the blower assembly and pull it down and toward the cabin slightly, you can rotate and drop the blower without much hassle.

I think if your wiring harness is fried - it is pretty tough to service the FSU. My guess is you'd have to swap the whole FSU. That is what I did - because it smelled fried and had a big black burn mark on the wire socket.

I just replaced the blower motor in my E90 today. Took me 10 mins total and I don't know why everyone is making a big deal saying it's a PITA.

I followed the instructions and pulled down but did not remove the plastic duct that was in front. Was able to get the blower in and got it to lock without any effort.

My old blower had a different p/n on it and there was 3 leafs in there. It made a squealing noise one time and latey it makes a loud buzzing noise at max speed so it was time.

Thanks for great DIY instructions. However, after installing the new motor (purchased from dealer), the motor makes noise on startup and when I turn it off. Any idea why? Do I have to oil the new blower before installation?



update: after running it for a couple of times, the noise is gone... There is one noise though that stays - opening and closing of the vent that is right above the blower.

would this be the reason why my radiator fan surges up and down??

nope. I think this might be the cooling system... I had similar symptoms and then the water pump died. I recommend you check that or just replace it if the cars age and mileage are on high side. My car had 90Kmi and 6.5 years old when repair was needed....

hope it helps...

Just wanted to thank ENINTY for posting this. I looked all over the net for instructions and these are absolutely the best.
The instructions were spot on.

This is definitely not a PITA job.
I never work on my car myself, but I was able to do this.

In the end, I didn't replace the motor, I took it into my house and sprayed some WD-40 like lubricant on the moving parts.

The only difficulty I encountered was what "int2str" mentioned about the little air duct piece that comes out from the center console area (it attaches to the longer piece that ENINTY describes as having the 3 feed holes that blow air out into the foot well).

Taking out the longer duct pieces wasn't a problem, but you do need to wrangle it out. I was afraid of breaking something, but you can pull on it a bit without destroying anything (there are no tabs or anything that might bend or break).

When replacing it, put the longer duct piece in FIRST. It will snap into place. THEN, wedge in the little duct piece and it will snap into the longer duct piece a lot easier.

I tried doing it the other way (small piece in first, then trying to wedge in the longer piece) and the longer piece kept being off and twisted just enought that nothing was snapping into place.

As for the big tab on the motor which you need to pull down in order to twist the motor out, luckily mine didn't break and snap off. I don't know if it was luck or me just being really careful.

Thanks for this write up, did this tonight. Wish there was more room in that damn foot well.
I am with most of the people here in that the duct work is the hardest part to get back in. Mainly that little one. Had I have kept reading I would have discovered the total duct work removal is not required, but anyway was to to bad. Big duct piece first (loose) followed by smaller duct piece, click together, then click the big piece into place.

I didn't replace, just WD40'd the motor to see if that will solve my issue. Otherwise ill go in there again and replace.

Great DIY, attempting this on my own now, though not sure if I'll have replace the blower motor.

In my case, no air comes out of the vents at all, however I can hear the blower motor rolling just fine. I've tried all sorts of combinations, A/C on, A/C off, min fan speed to max fan speed, but no air was blowing whatsoever...

Then I removed the glove box and the air tube, and voila, that shutter (flap?) that would make air travel thru the air tube appeared to be plain shut all the time.

Has this something to do with the blower motor, or something else let's say the final stage resistor unit (FSU)?

Thanks for the help!

Thanks man! Good DIY instructions. Much appreciated.

Thank you ENTITY for posting the write up and thanks to everyone else for all of the feedback. Now that I have read everything I'm going to attempt to WD40 the shaft bearing and if that does not work I'll replace the blower motor.

Just for clarification,What are the symptoms of the resistor being bad?

For me my blower does not work at all despite indicating correctly on the climate indicator.

Thanks for the excellent write up...I was able to pull out the blower in ten minutes. I would'nt of been able to do it without it.
However when I pulled it out I noticed the wires going into the FSU were corroded and bare because the wire sheild was brittle and fell apart.

I was wondering if I need to replace the black clip that plugs into the FSU or if I could just cut the wires strip and place back into the clip/housing .

Also if I have to replace the clip whats the part number. I checked realoem and couldnt find it.

Thanks

The FSU socket was black so I'massuming I have to change it.

Just to follow up...I found the part number for the clip that attached to the FSU. It turns out it was the clip that caused it to stop working. I didnt need to replace the FSU or blower...I got lucky.

Thanks again for the excellent write up!

Dannyboy, where'd you pick up the blower motor from? Was it on ebay? Doing some shopping around because of a similar problem I'm having, I found it for 90 bucks on ebay. However, other sites have it for about 150 but they say that's the blower motor and regulator. Not sure if that makes a difference or not?

Do you need to disconnect the battery or anything before you do this DIY?

When buying the Blower, does it come with all the other parts/wires and whatnot that many of you are saying will need replace because they are either fried or burnt out.

Where have you guys been buying your blowers from? I saw one guy bought from ebay, but i would only do that if it was a reputable seller...

I had the same sound as in the youtube vid posted in the first couple of replies in this thread. All I did was take off the cabin filter cover and shoot some WD40 on the shaft of the blower motor...good as new and zero noise!

pics of where you shot WD40?

Mine has developed a cricket noise exactly like mkPOTO's video.

No pics needed. Just remove the cabin airfilter housing cover and look into the air intake hole in front of the passenger side windshield and you'll see it. It will have rust on the end of the shaft in the middle of the fan blade. Use a flashlight. Enjoy the WD-40 smell for a while.

What he said...the smell goes away in about a day or so though.