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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > All COBB Tuning AccessPORT Flash for N54 335i Discussion Here



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      04-04-2013, 01:39 PM   #7239
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Brand new, I'm guessing its defective too. I hope to hear back sometime today. Cobbs website said 1-3 days for a response, today is day 3.
Someone from Cobb is on the forums, but I don’t recall his username. Try searching through the last few pages on this thread and I’m sure you’ll find a Cobb rep. Perhaps that’s a better way to get in touch.
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      04-04-2013, 01:58 PM   #7240
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Anyone have a cobb for sale that is for the N54?? Looking to snag one asap!
You can also try the for sale section, post up a Want To Buy thread. Good luck
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      04-04-2013, 04:53 PM   #7241
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anyone know the difference between Stage 1 Drive and Stage 1 Drive+FMIC ?

Is it more boost, more fuel injection? Increased timings?

I'm already on ACN91 fuel and I'm getting an FMIC soon.
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      04-04-2013, 05:12 PM   #7242
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anyone know the difference between Stage 1 Drive and Stage 1 Drive+FMIC ?

Is it more boost, more fuel injection? Increased timings?

I'm already on ACN91 fuel and I'm getting an FMIC soon.
Basically, it's more timing and boost.
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      04-04-2013, 06:04 PM   #7243
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Thanks for the info. Looking forward to getting the 2007 with sport package. I also found another 2007 with 15K lower miles and 1000 bucks cheaper, but without the sport package. I the following website that states what each package brings to the car http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...0203827AAfBoyi My questions is if you had to do it over again, would you rather spend 1000 more and get a car with the sport package, or get a car without the sport package and use the extra grand for mods?
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      04-04-2013, 06:13 PM   #7244
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I haven't seen any rep from cobb on here in a long time ! maybe I've missed it. maybe there staying away on purpose
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      04-04-2013, 07:12 PM   #7245
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Thanks for the info. Looking forward to getting the 2007 with sport package. I also found another 2007 with 15K lower miles and 1000 bucks cheaper, but without the sport package. I the following website that states what each package brings to the car http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...0203827AAfBoyi My questions is if you had to do it over again, would you rather spend 1000 more and get a car with the sport package, or get a car without the sport package and use the extra grand for mods?
The seats alone are worth a grand in my book. Plus the lowered suspension, better handling, wheels and most likely an oil cooler.
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      04-04-2013, 07:16 PM   #7246
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[quote=racerg35335]
Quote:
Originally Posted by pylepilot View Post
Thanks for the info. Looking forward to getting the 2007 with sport package. I also found another 2007 with 15K lower miles and 1000 bucks cheaper, but without the sport package. I the following website that states what each package brings to the car http://answers.yahoo.com/question/in...0203827AAfBoyi My questions is if you had to do it over again, would you rather spend 1000 more and get a car with the sport package, or get a car without the sport package and use the extra grand for mods?
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Originally Posted by racerg35335
The seats alone are worth a grand in my book. Plus the lowered suspension, better handling, wheels and most likely an oil cooler.
I tend to agree. And you are probably gonna spend an extra grand on mods either way lol. Once it bites, the mod bug is hard to stop.
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      04-04-2013, 09:03 PM   #7247
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Thanks guys. Looks like the sport version for me.
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      04-04-2013, 10:16 PM   #7248
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Thanks guys. Looks like the sport version for me.
Make sure it has stock oil cooler.
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      04-05-2013, 10:06 AM   #7249
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What do you look for in a log when the WG are to sticky?
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      04-05-2013, 11:57 AM   #7250
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What do you look for in a log when the WG are to sticky?
You can start by looking at WGDC after PID and WGDC Base Value and comparing it to WGDC Bank 1/2. PID + base value should be close to equal to each banks %. IE if after PID is 35 and base is 10 then the bank % should be ~45(give or take 10%.) They won't be exactly equal, however they should trend together, so if PID and base both go up or down then the bank should follow.

Also, compare bank 1% to bank 2%. It's unlikely for both WG actuators to have issues so you should see a big difference between the two then you probably have an issue.
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      04-05-2013, 12:07 PM   #7251
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Originally Posted by Ænema View Post
You can start by looking at WGDC after PID and WGDC Base Value and comparing it to WGDC Bank 1/2. PID + base value should be close to equal to each banks %. IE if after PID is 35 and base is 10 then the bank % should be ~45(give or take 10%.) They won't be exactly equal, however they should trend together, so if PID and base both go up or down then the bank should follow.

Also, compare bank 1% to bank 2%. It's unlikely for both WG actuators to have issues so you should see a big difference between the two then you probably have an issue.
Thanks. I'll do some more logs and these fields (MAF Req & Boost Setpoint Factor)?
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      04-05-2013, 12:16 PM   #7252
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Thanks. I'll do some more logs and these fields (MAF Req & Boost Setpoint Factor)?
Nah, just use the default logging list and add WGDC bank 2.
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      04-05-2013, 12:20 PM   #7253
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Nah, just use the default logging list and add WGDC bank 2.
Gotcha!
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      04-05-2013, 12:28 PM   #7254
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I haven't seen any rep from cobb on here in a long time ! maybe I've missed it. maybe there staying away on purpose
I hope it's for a good reason would love to have map switching capability through a button of choice (like AP subaru's have)
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      04-05-2013, 12:56 PM   #7255
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Day 10 of Dinan fmic install and I won't know till day 14 if the new connections will hold and stay fit... I don't even remember what its like driving cobb

This 14 day fiasco does not include the 5 days it was originally planned to be in the shop lol.

I honestly think I could have bought the cobb fmic and you guys posted iphone pictures of the tools I'd need to do the job and I think I could have done it in less time as a newb.
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      04-05-2013, 01:21 PM   #7256
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Day 10 of Dinan fmic install and I won't know till day 14 if the new connections will hold and stay fit... I don't even remember what its like driving cobb

This 14 day fiasco does not include the 5 days it was originally planned to be in the shop lol.

I honestly think I could have bought the cobb fmic and you guys posted iphone pictures of the tools I'd need to do the job and I think I could have done it in less time as a newb.
At this point I would take it to another shop or just redo the install yourself. FMIC DIYs are pretty easy and there's only so much that can go wrong.
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      04-05-2013, 01:25 PM   #7257
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At this point I would take it to another shop or just redo the install yourself. FMIC DIYs are pretty easy and there's only so much that can go wrong.
Thats where we're at come day 14... They told me my hoses were actually shorter than the replacement ones they ordered once they got them off and compared them today. I imagine this is the car equivalent to when schools would make you carry a flower sack to show you what its like having a kid... I just want my power back
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      04-05-2013, 07:21 PM   #7258
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Yeah, i guess i shouldn't have said "kit." As far as i know there is no vehicle specific kit, it's just special e85 connectors that still require splicing. If someone were to release connector adapters specifically for our cars i'm sure they would sell like hot cakes...

http://www.driven2automotive.com/wal...fuel-pump.html
Hey man. I Installed the Walbro today... which by the way is not fun. lol.. The car started fine and I plugged the cobb in and lpfp was sitting at 72. Did some driving and monitored it and all looked good. I stopped and got gas before doing logs and when I fired up the pressure was steady in the
60's. Came home and turned the car off again for 10 minutes and when I started up again it was in the 40's and 50's. This is exactly what it was doing with the stock pump. At first start pressure would be ok but when I turned the car off and restarted pressure would be lower. I have attached a log to see if you have any idea whats up. I was thinking the regulator but hpfp is fine even when lpfp dives. I am thinking lfp sensor. I'm running stg1+ agg right now and want to go back to ethanol. If it is just then sensor then I am fine with it just want to be safe. Let me know what you think. Thanks!
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      04-05-2013, 07:57 PM   #7259
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Sorry, my log didn't load on the last post
Attached Files
File Type: zip datalog52.zip (3.4 KB, 27 views)
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      04-05-2013, 08:58 PM   #7260
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I hope it's for a good reason would love to have map switching capability through a button of choice (like AP subaru's have)
I was thinking they don't want to deal with all the questions on missing tables people would love to have right about now but some on the fly map switching would be super cool have to admit I kind of miss my gauge sweep . come to think of it I do still have a jb 4 floating around.....
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