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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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DIY - change rear brake pads
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| DIY - rear brake pads + brake pad sensor | |||||||
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#4
By
ENINTY
on
01-14-2011, 08:37 PM
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Good write up, but you totally left out how to remove the sensor and replace it with a new sensor. The sensor wire needs to be carefully re-routed in the same location (and clips) as the old sensor. This involves partially removing the inner fender well and right rear valance panel. Good picks though.
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#5
By
AlanAZ
on
01-14-2011, 09:39 PM
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Great write-up and photos.
One suggestion: when you're pushing the piston(s) back, bleed the brake fluid into a brake bleeding tool. Ideally, brake fluid should always move through the master out to the slaves, and not back into the master (also, if your reservoir is full, you risk over flowing it if you're pushing a lot of fluid back.) This prevents any contaminants from damaging the master. When finished, use the bleeding tool to bleed some fluid and any air from the slave. |
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#6
By
lpphreakx06
on
01-15-2011, 03:00 AM
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Nice write up..
Love the euro bumpers ![]() |
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#7
By
PersianPete
on
01-20-2011, 08:10 AM
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I will be replacing the brake pad sensor this weekend and will post up an addendum =]
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#9
By
PersianPete
on
02-13-2011, 11:28 AM
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edit - new pictures added for instructions to change brake pad sensor.
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#10
By
clarkinc
on
03-05-2011, 09:41 PM
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Fantastic- to the tee instructions. I have been doing my E46 for years and had to check your reference just to make sure nothing changed. I wish this was 10yrs ago... trial and error is not fun!! LOL!
I have been removing the caliper screws.. Is this wrong? |
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Last edited by clarkinc; 03-06-2011 at 01:42 AM.
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#11
By
DN530
on
04-30-2011, 08:47 PM
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Great post! I replaced my front & rear brakes, rotors, and sensors today. Your post let me know what I was getting into, so it saved me a ton of time. The entire project was flawless until the last brake/rotor replacement, which was the rear passenger side. The rotor and emergency brake drum were stuck together due to corrosion. The e-brake drum came off with the rotor.... then I had to figure out how to piece the e-brake drum back together. That part alone took sidetracked my project by over an hour. Other than that, it was a smooth project. Thanks again for the great post!
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#12
By
TheTallJS
on
05-09-2011, 03:54 AM
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i did some surfing and came across the pelican website and their tutorial for brake pad changes and noticed something different in theirs. They say to remove plastic caps off of the back of the calipers and unscrew allen screws to take the calipers off. I'm wondering if those allen screws are actually for the bleeder valves?
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#13
By
vm
on
05-15-2011, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
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#14
By
WallyF
on
06-06-2011, 07:25 AM
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Rotors stick to hub
I changed the rear brakes and rotors on my 2006 325xi yesterday. Everything went well until I tried to remove the first rotor. It ws frozen to the center hub(dissimilar metal corrison). I checked to make sure the emergency brake was off. Since I did not have a wheel puller, my nephew suggested using a torch to heat up the rotor and crack the corrison.
Well after some time and a hammer, we were able to remove the rotor. Had to do to the same to the other rotor also. After that things were just simple. I had replaced my front brakes and rotors on my E46 last year so I knew what to expect. Has anyone had this problem with frozen rotors?? wallyf |
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#15
By
WallyF
on
06-09-2011, 08:24 AM
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Brake sensor Replacement is necessary
I replaced the rear pads per this DYI on my 2006 325xi. I tried to reset the onboard computer (OBC). I was able to reset the value from 3400 miles to minus 15,000 miles. Of course I got a red warning service indication and red "Brake" light. After some reading on the forum, I found that the sensor has a variable resistance and must be replaced if one wants the OBC to be reset to a positive number of miles.
I replaced the brake sensor (BMW #34356789445) and was able to reset the computer to 31,000 miles. All of the red warnings went away. So, if you want the E90 onboard computer (OBC) to function correctly when brake pads are replaced, the sensor must be replaced!!! I measured the DC resistance of the new sensor and old sensor. New sensor = 0.5 ohms Old sensor = 450 ohms So, as the sensor wears down, the resistance goes up. This is in contrast to the E46 sensor that is an open(infinite ohms) or short(zero ohms) situation. Will the author of this DYI and make sure the DYI is updated. Thanks Wallyf |
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#16
By
mid-corner fun
on
06-09-2011, 10:10 AM
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Good DIY but taking out the entire caliper assembly by removing the bolts is unnecessary unless you're planning to change your rotors too.
Removing the 2 caliper pins (torqued at 22lb/ft only) with a 7mm allen wrench is a very easy way to change your pads. PS. Sorry, just noticed this was already mentioned above |
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#17
By
firechicken99
on
06-13-2011, 11:05 PM
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thanks dude.. wish i had seen about the hex pins earlier, those two bolts are a pain to get to!!
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#18
By
Glim
on
06-24-2011, 10:34 PM
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The two slider pins holding the pads that you remove are easy to find as they have rubber dust caps on them. Torque to 22lbs.
New brake sensors at the pad end are coated with plastic, if the pad has not worn down enough that it has started wearing off the plastic then you do not need to replace the cable or reset the service. Before doing this go out and pick up some brake fluid, check the brake fluid cap, it will tell you what it needs, mine is p21s. Suction out the fluid reservoir before squeezing the pistons back in then suction it again after pushing the pistons in, fill the reservoir back up with fresh then bleed the brakes after you change the pads. |
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#20
By
mase
on
07-09-2011, 07:46 PM
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Minor tip: line up the new outer brake bad or look at the old brake pad to see which areas are contacting the caliper and which parts are visible to outside. Only put the squeal paste in the contact areas, otherwise the bright orange past will be visible to all.
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