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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > Where do you place the Jack Stands?



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      02-22-2007, 01:04 AM   #23
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to get all 4 corners, you need ramps. Drive up onto the ramps, raise the rear one side at a time, and there is a spot on the subframe that can hold the car no problem. Just follow the control arm back and youll see it, its a lighter silver color and it has a very large bolt at the bottom, where the stand goes.
Once you have both rear stands in place, place stands under the front jack points (they slide under since its already on the ramps), raise the car a little, slide the ramps out one at a time, and then drop the car onto the stands. Cant get it very high, but you have all 4 off.
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      02-22-2007, 07:23 AM   #24
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Quote:
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The rear ones should be relatively easy for $100 and I can slide that in from behind
Someone has taken the phrase,"I'm in love with my car", to a new level.
Hope you send flowers or candy the next day.
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      02-22-2007, 08:30 AM   #25
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      02-22-2007, 09:58 AM   #26
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Someone has taken the phrase,"I'm in love with my car", to a new level.
Hope you send flowers or candy the next day.
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      02-22-2007, 01:40 PM   #27
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My car didnt come with no jack =(
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      02-22-2007, 02:46 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by STE92VE View Post
Someone has taken the phrase,"I'm in love with my car", to a new level.
Hope you send flowers or candy the next day.

Now we know why the inside of the tail pipes are so clean.
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      02-22-2007, 03:37 PM   #29
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I can hear it now - "Hey... Chrome tailpipe inserts look great - gives it a nice polished look. Where did you get them?" Uh, well you see, um, they're special order. Yeah, that's the ticket. I know somebody that, uh, does it 'special'. Funny sh*t.

Hey, that idea about a 2x6 might do the trick...


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Now we know why the inside of the tail pipes are so clean.
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      02-24-2007, 12:37 PM   #30
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      02-24-2007, 07:00 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miami Bimmer06 View Post
My car didnt come with no jack =(
Wow, you're lucky. Jacks don't come standard in E90s.
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Last edited by Jaws; 02-24-2007 at 08:26 PM.
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      03-04-2007, 08:39 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowman811 View Post
I can hear it now - "Hey... Chrome tailpipe inserts look great - gives it a nice polished look. Where did you get them?" Uh, well you see, um, they're special order. Yeah, that's the ticket. I know somebody that, uh, does it 'special'. Funny sh*t.

Hey, that idea about a 2x6 might do trick...
Snowman881, did you ever try the 2 x 6 technique? Just wondering...
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      03-04-2007, 09:03 PM   #33
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One Jack Will Do It.

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Originally Posted by LEDZEP View Post
Well, we know the axle is no good. I'm curious because if I need to rotate the tires I'd like to have both wheels on one side off the ground. Last time I did it I used my floor jack and my neighbor's floor jack on the two jack points. Would be nice to use just one jack.

Maybe I'll ask the tech next time I'm at the dealer.

I placed a Sears floor jack under rear jack point and found I was able to lift entire car for tire rotation.

Also, if you insert an appropriate sized hardwood block in the front jack point you can then place a jack stand under that and place a jack stand under the bolt in the rear assembly as shown somewhere else in this forum. Its how I do it if I have it up for other, longer projects e.g. caliper painting.
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      03-02-2008, 07:01 PM   #34
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Jacking from the jack point does get it high enough to place a stand under the front point. Switch sides, repeat to remove, etc.
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      03-04-2008, 06:02 PM   #35
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A Rotary SPA10 will cost you about $3,500 to $4,000 installed. You need a minmum 4 inch thick concrete floor and a 12 foot ceiling height. Make sure you get one built after January '05 because you'll need an arm mod kit ($2,200) to fit the E90 chassis.
What arm mod kit and why do you need it? I'm planning on getting a lift.
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      03-05-2008, 09:23 PM   #36
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had my car up on a lift to install my catless downpipes last week..........the car was so damned I had to jack the rear up to get the front arms of the lift on the front lift points.

Then I removed the rear wheels and put the rear arms under the spring mounts in the rear. No problems.

The jack points are so close on this car there is no way to use the 4 of them for the contact points for the lift arms.

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      03-23-2008, 08:51 PM   #37
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I found this on the BMW TIS (Technical Information System) for the E93. It should apply to E90/E92/E93, but I am not 100% sure.

I should say that I have not tried doing this yet, but I will soon.



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      03-23-2008, 09:21 PM   #38
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^ great info. Can you get the TIS info for the other E9Xs too? The reason I say this is that the E93 may have extra bracing for the convertible top that isn't on the other cars (with the exception of the diff).
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      03-29-2008, 10:41 PM   #39
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so is this the only thing we can do? If You need to work on the front like put on intake fogs etc. jack up the car from the rear jack point and then put the jack stands in the front jack point? Isn't jack stands safer than a jack because it doesn't move so if your working in the front putting a jack stands in the front is better right?
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      03-31-2008, 11:21 AM   #40
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So the proper process is to jack the car up by the front center jack point (i.e #1) then support the car by using jack stands at the two front side jacking points (i.e. #2). Same process for the rear; jack by the rear center point, then use the rear side points.
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      03-31-2008, 12:50 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENINTY View Post
So the proper process is to jack the car up by the front center jack point (i.e #1) then support the car by using jack stands at the two front side jacking points (i.e. #2). Same process for the rear; jack by the rear center point, then use the rear side points.
I have seen the front center jack point (I think) but I am not sure about the rear center jack point and the diagram is too small for me to tell. I thought the TIS said not to use #3 and #4 to jack up the rear?

Some one blow this pix up please...
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      04-04-2008, 10:11 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by Boost3dm3 View Post
What arm mod kit and why do you need it? I'm planning on getting a lift.
Sorry I missed your question earlier. You wouldn't need a arm kit if you get the SPOA10 now. Rotary changed the design of the arms in 2006. Rotary brought the manufacturing of the arms in-house and when they did they changed the design to allow the "shoes" to fit over the arm (the shoes previously didn't), which allows the shoes to properly contact the lift points on the rocker panels (under the door).

I bought my lift in 2004 which had the old style arms. The supplier I bought it from just happened to have a set of the newer model arms from a guy who bought a lift and got the arm mod kit. The arm mod kit has different "shoes" on the arms that have screw adjuster pads for low profile vehicles.

Get the lift, it will be the best thing you ever did for yourself.
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      04-04-2008, 10:18 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by txusa03 View Post
I have seen the front center jack point (I think) but I am not sure about the rear center jack point and the diagram is too small for me to tell. I thought the TIS said not to use #3 and #4 to jack up the rear?

Some one blow this pix up please...
The TIS picture shows you can lift the rear by the differential housing, but not by the diff cover. I still wouldn't do that. The TIS picture also shows lifting the rear by the rear subframe cross member, which is behind the diff. The cross memeber is strong enough to hold the weight.

Here's a pic of the rear cross memeber (E90 chassis)
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      04-04-2008, 10:23 AM   #44
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This is what's under the plastic in the front.
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