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  DIY - Your Oil filter housing gasket is leaking.
Is that my Head Gasket?
allmotorh22
01-14-2011
Is that oil coming from my head gasket?

No, it's most likely not your head gasket leaking, it may just be your oil filter housing gasket. (an oil leak seen under your intake manifold following the head gasket going all the way around the front part of your block but stopping at the...
  #88  
By jpirelli on 01-14-2013, 07:49 AM
What are the torque specs for the aluminum bolts?
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  #89  
By Bimmer Barney on 01-15-2013, 10:27 AM
22 nm
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  #90  
By incantana on 01-21-2013, 06:28 PM
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just did this. sure enough, it was the problem.
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  #91  
By mlifxs on 01-28-2013, 09:31 PM
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Thank you OP and all who made helpful comments and shared their experience.

I just did this, but I did manage to strip the star bolt head closest to the fan. I was using an 8mm box wrench and was able to break the bolt on top and under the intake, no problem. The third bolt stripped and I made the mistake of trying to force it on, just stripped it more. I was totally bummed, thinking I'll be heading to a shop to get it done (along with taking out the stripped bolt). Decided to search and see if there is such a thing as a E-torx box and.....YES!

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-922...orx+box+wrench

Got this wrench, put it on the stripped bolt, and it wouldn't go on. Was ready to give up, then tried the E-12 side of the wrench and it broke it free. Cool. Went to the dealer and bought a replacement bolt.

From there, the job was pretty easy.

Drained two quarts coolant. If you are careful with the drain plug, you can drain without completely removing the plug. Once I had two quarts out, taking the housing off was completely mess free. I think partially draining the coolant is a great idea, guess it helps if you've changed your coolant before as I did recently.

Removed the air intake snorkel. Removed the three bolts, and the sensor connector. Didn't remove the oil filter, really didn't need to keep anything from spilling or making a mess. Used a large screw driver to prop the housing out fo the way. My gasket was still in one piece and came out easily.

The E-torx box ratchet is an excellent tool for this job. It makes a very tight bite on the star. $15 bucks avoided a major PITA.

One thing I thought of (I'm a noob, maybe some of you do this all the time) was tethering the wrench for the bolt under the intake. Maybe it's just psychological, but the tether just seem to make my hands feel more dexterous since I wasn't concerned with dropping the wrench. Also, when you're loosening the bolt under the intake, just pull on the rope to un-thread and let gravity ratchet it back.
Attached Images
  
Last edited by mlifxs; 02-12-2013 at 08:50 PM. Reason: ratings
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  #92  
By e9012345 on 02-10-2013, 11:17 PM
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Why do you have to redo a coolant job to do this? I talked to my mechanic and he didn't seem to know that you had to mess around with the coolant at all?
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  #93  
By bmwusa-e90 on 02-12-2013, 06:09 PM
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tools

guys, i couldnt get the third bolt lose with any tools (gear wrenches). so i opened my german tool set, and i found the perfect tool. just took my 20sec, to get to the bolt and totally unscrew it. i was worried about this job, but at the end it just cost me 27USD for the gaskets. job was done in 45minutes, and 40 minutes were for cleaning the parts. the car i did it is my wife's N52 e60 530xi, attached are some pictures
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  #94  
By mlifxs on 02-12-2013, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e9012345 View Post
Why do you have to redo a coolant job to do this? I talked to my mechanic and he didn't seem to know that you had to mess around with the coolant at all?
You don't need to "redo" a coolant job. It helps minimize mess if you you drain some of your coolant, not all of it ( I drained 2 quarts ). If you don't, you will likely spill coolant as you loosen the housing. Per several of the posts on this DIY, people spilled a decent amount of coolant when they didn't drain any.

Again, all I did was drain two quarts from the radiator drain plug into a clean bottle. Only required loosening the plug. Once the new gasket is on the housing and tightened back up, you just open the coolant bleeder screw, pour the drained coolant back into the reservoir (reusing what you drained), tighten the bleeder screw, and do the venting process. EASY.
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  #95  
By Omni on 04-07-2013, 05:40 PM
Just a quick comment - you can get the third bolt (the one under the intake manifold) with a 1/4" mini ratchet, 4-5" extension, a swivel attachment and 8mm socket. Works wonderfully.
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  #96  
By crystaweizen on 04-17-2013, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
for those who don't know if you need this done or not, i posted pictures of my engine here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=512950

if your engine looks like this, you need this done
is the part for a 135i the same? i have a leak in that area and after looking closely it almost looks like there is a sharp metal gasket in between te filter housing and head. i would love to know if it is in fact a rubber seal or a metal gasket on an 08 e82 with n54 thanks!
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  #97  
By liferuiner316 on 04-24-2013, 08:50 AM
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this is a great DIY
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  #98  
By 7daysaweek on 04-29-2013, 07:44 AM
Did this yesterday and I didn't have as easy a time as it sounds like some of you did. I have a 2007 328i with the N52 engine.

I was not able to get the bolt underneath the manifold with the 8mm ratcheting wrench (it stripped the bolt head almost instantly. I ended up taking off the oil pressure switch to try and get a little extra room, didn't help much, finally had to remove the intake manifold (along with all the covers on top of it) to finally get to the bolt and remove it.

I also had trouble with the lower bolt on the front side of the housing (the furthest towards the front of the engine, on the bottom with the head facing opposite the other two). I was able to break this one free with the 8mm wrench however the wrench ended up bottoming out on the mount for the hose going into the head just under this bolt. Being a ratcheting wrench I obviously couldn't just thread it back in so I ended up having to remove this hose in order to get that bolt out. Not a big deal but something I didn't see mentioned (maybe I missed it) and figured I'd mention for anyone else trying this.

Anyway, my gasket came out in one piece, didn't notice anything in the coolant which kinda surprised me (I'm at 133k miles, much more than some others in here). Saved a bunch of money and learned a lot so pretty happy with it. Thanks for the DIY.
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  #99  
By tc328 on 05-19-2013, 10:52 PM
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looks to be e10 torx
Last edited by tc328; 06-01-2013 at 03:50 PM.
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  #100  
By ska///235i on 06-01-2013, 03:51 PM
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Ok, i gather all the info

its 3 bolts which are "E10" torx
torque spec is "22 nm"
gasket part # 11427537293 (around $13)


I'm going to replace mine on my next oil change and while I'm under the car I'll also drain a little coolant out to make this easier.

thanks for all the info
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  #101  
By kodathedog on 06-22-2013, 07:28 AM
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I just did this yesterday along with TS and WP replacement.
I had to loosen my intake manifold (not remove) to get access to that bolt.
One thing I did not do was lubricate the new gasket. I didn't think that was necessary since it is not seeing any friction like you would with a spin on oil filter.
Pain in the ass job - I'll comment on the WP and TS in another thread.
Car has 120K miles, 325xi wagon MT6
Thank you for this DIY
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  #102  
By Efthreeoh on 06-22-2013, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni View Post
Just a quick comment - you can get the third bolt (the one under the intake manifold) with a 1/4" mini ratchet, 4-5" extension, a swivel attachment and 8mm socket. Works wonderfully.
This is the same setup I used (a 6-inch Craftsman 1/4-drive extension bar) and a 1/4-drive u-joint swivel. However, a few weeks ago I found an even better tool at a hardware store. I found a 1/4-drive flex-cable extension, which is perfect for this job. The one I found has a fully encased flex cable that let's you get right square on the bolt head. It doesn't wind up like the flex cables that are not encased.
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  #103  
By MJ777LR on 07-27-2013, 11:49 PM
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I tried to work at this today but could not get the third bolt under the manifold loose, even with an E10 socket, a u-joint, and a 6 inch extension. I read of a lot of folks loosening the manifold to get a better reach. How exactly is this done? Which bolts do I need to loosen to move the manifold?
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  #104  
By ska///235i on 07-30-2013, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ777LR
I tried to work at this today but could not get the third bolt under the manifold loose, even with an E10 socket, a u-joint, and a 6 inch extension. I read of a lot of folks loosening the manifold to get a better reach. How exactly is this done? Which bolts do I need to loosen to move the manifold?
Did you take off the airbox so you have a better reach with the ext bar? If you try already and still need manifold loosen....should be the first bolt near the housing (see op 5th pic), its the one near the top of his wrench
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  #105  
By MJ777LR on 07-31-2013, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the advice. I did not take off the airbox when I tried it. I did try to loosen that manifold bolt that you mentioned (and a few of the others along that row of bolts) but the manifold didn't seem to budge. Is that one bolt the only one I should have to remove to loosen the manifold?
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  #106  
By Meeni on 07-31-2013, 03:03 PM
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You need to loosen all the manifold bolts. There are like 5 or 6 nuts along the way, the threaded rod stays in the block, don't touch it. Then you can wiggle it around (not too much because the injection rail is till attached to it).

Good luck, that was a major PITA for me as well, but it went better after I actually got access.
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  #107  
By mlf on 08-22-2013, 01:48 PM
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coolant drain plug

I have a 2010 328i (n52 engine), and am looking to change the OFH gasket over the weekend. I've seen many suggest to go ahead and drain quart or two of the coolant as it is worth it to prevent a mess. My question is where is the drain plug at? Is it difficult to get to? Looks like the radiator drain plug might not be accessible without taking off that underpanel underneath the car? If that's the case, and especially since I don't have any ramps, I might just skip the drain part and try to capture as much of the coolant as I can when I remove the housing. At least one poster mentioned how easy it was to drain the coolant, so I'm assuming there must be a plug somewhere that is easily accessible.
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  #108  
By ice_nyne on 10-19-2013, 11:40 AM
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Bavauto sells this gasket for $15 btw. Part # 11 42 7 537 293
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  #109  
By buffalony on 11-04-2013, 03:01 PM
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housing gasket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
You need to loosen all the manifold bolts. There are like 5 or 6 nuts along the way, the threaded rod stays in the block, don't touch it. Then you can wiggle it around (not too much because the injection rail is till attached to it).

Good luck, that was a major PITA for me as well, but it went better after I actually got access.
I did this past weekend on my 2006 330i, drained some coolant, removed air box, the air box shroud, but did not have to loosen the IM. I simply used a 6inch extension and a universal joint (quater inch) from sears for about 14 dollars. Over all the worst part was cleaning the old oil up. I suggest you bleed the coolant system twice before driving to get all the air out.

Over all it can be done with about 50 dollars worth of tool(that is if you own nothing already) and 45 minutes of your time. if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
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