E90Post
 


Extreme Power House
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY - Your Oil filter housing gasket is leaking.



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      01-14-2013, 08:49 AM   #89
jpirelli
Power is nothing without control
jpirelli's Avatar
14
Rep
765
Posts

Drives: E90 + E92
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Southeast/Southwest

iTrader: (3)

What are the torque specs for the aluminum bolts?
Appreciate 0
      01-15-2013, 11:27 AM   #90
Bimmer Barney
Lieutenant
Bimmer Barney's Avatar
17
Rep
433
Posts

Drives: 2007 335i Sedan
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Santa Barbara, CA

iTrader: (4)

22 nm
__________________
2007 SGM E90 335i
JB4 G4, Mr.5 Intake, VRSF 7" FMIC, ER Sport Oil Cooler, M3 Rep Bumper, RB PCV Valve, Cyba Scoops and Quad Tips, 17x9 ET30 and 17x9.5 ET35 Concave Apex Arc 8, M3 UCA/LCA
Appreciate 0
      01-21-2013, 07:28 PM   #91
incantana
Captain
incantana's Avatar
17
Rep
655
Posts

Drives: ZL1; 848 Evo; M Roadster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: USA

iTrader: (3)

just did this. sure enough, it was the problem.
Appreciate 0
      01-28-2013, 10:31 PM   #92
mlifxs
Diamond Geezer
mlifxs's Avatar
101
Rep
2,345
Posts

Drives: Jet Black 2007 328i Saloon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Florida

iTrader: (6)

Garage List
Thank you OP and all who made helpful comments and shared their experience.

I just did this, but I did manage to strip the star bolt head closest to the fan. I was using an 8mm box wrench and was able to break the bolt on top and under the intake, no problem. The third bolt stripped and I made the mistake of trying to force it on, just stripped it more. I was totally bummed, thinking I'll be heading to a shop to get it done (along with taking out the stripped bolt). Decided to search and see if there is such a thing as a E-torx box and.....YES!

http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-922...orx+box+wrench

Got this wrench, put it on the stripped bolt, and it wouldn't go on. Was ready to give up, then tried the E-12 side of the wrench and it broke it free. Cool. Went to the dealer and bought a replacement bolt.

From there, the job was pretty easy.

Drained two quarts coolant. If you are careful with the drain plug, you can drain without completely removing the plug. Once I had two quarts out, taking the housing off was completely mess free. I think partially draining the coolant is a great idea, guess it helps if you've changed your coolant before as I did recently.

Removed the air intake snorkel. Removed the three bolts, and the sensor connector. Didn't remove the oil filter, really didn't need to keep anything from spilling or making a mess. Used a large screw driver to prop the housing out fo the way. My gasket was still in one piece and came out easily.

The E-torx box ratchet is an excellent tool for this job. It makes a very tight bite on the star. $15 bucks avoided a major PITA.

One thing I thought of (I'm a noob, maybe some of you do this all the time) was tethering the wrench for the bolt under the intake. Maybe it's just psychological, but the tether just seem to make my hands feel more dexterous since I wasn't concerned with dropping the wrench. Also, when you're loosening the bolt under the intake, just pull on the rope to un-thread and let gravity ratchet it back.
Attached Images
  

Last edited by mlifxs; 02-12-2013 at 09:50 PM. Reason: ratings
Appreciate 0
      02-11-2013, 12:17 AM   #93
e9012345
Lieutenant
13
Rep
437
Posts

Drives: e90
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: North York

iTrader: (0)

Why do you have to redo a coolant job to do this? I talked to my mechanic and he didn't seem to know that you had to mess around with the coolant at all?
__________________
6MT Sport Pkg | BMW Perf. Pedals | BMW Perf. SSK | CF Steering Trim | BMW Performance Black Gloss Grilles | M3 Rep Bumper | Muffler Delete 2.5"| Charcoal Delete + K&N Drop In | CDV Delete | Clutch Stop | Active Autowerke Stage II Tune | H&R Sport Springs | Koni Yellow Shocks/Struts | 18" Gunmetal CSL Reps | BurgerTuning Spacers | Staggered Ventus V12's | ATE Super Blue & Hawk HPS | Blacklines | GP6K Angel Eyes
Appreciate 0
      02-12-2013, 07:09 PM   #94
bmwusa-e90
Michael
bmwusa-e90's Avatar
United_States
4
Rep
192
Posts

Drives: 2009 e92 328i xdrive
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Berthoud, CO

iTrader: (4)

tools

guys, i couldnt get the third bolt lose with any tools (gear wrenches). so i opened my german tool set, and i found the perfect tool. just took my 20sec, to get to the bolt and totally unscrew it. i was worried about this job, but at the end it just cost me 27USD for the gaskets. job was done in 45minutes, and 40 minutes were for cleaning the parts. the car i did it is my wife's N52 e60 530xi, attached are some pictures
Attached Images
  
Appreciate 0
      02-12-2013, 09:45 PM   #95
mlifxs
Diamond Geezer
mlifxs's Avatar
101
Rep
2,345
Posts

Drives: Jet Black 2007 328i Saloon
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Florida

iTrader: (6)

Garage List
Quote:
Originally Posted by e9012345 View Post
Why do you have to redo a coolant job to do this? I talked to my mechanic and he didn't seem to know that you had to mess around with the coolant at all?
You don't need to "redo" a coolant job. It helps minimize mess if you you drain some of your coolant, not all of it ( I drained 2 quarts ). If you don't, you will likely spill coolant as you loosen the housing. Per several of the posts on this DIY, people spilled a decent amount of coolant when they didn't drain any.

Again, all I did was drain two quarts from the radiator drain plug into a clean bottle. Only required loosening the plug. Once the new gasket is on the housing and tightened back up, you just open the coolant bleeder screw, pour the drained coolant back into the reservoir (reusing what you drained), tighten the bleeder screw, and do the venting process. EASY.
Appreciate 0
      04-07-2013, 06:40 PM   #96
Omni
Second Lieutenant
Omni's Avatar
United_States
6
Rep
242
Posts

Drives: E90 335xi 6MT
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Grand Rapids, MI

iTrader: (9)

Just a quick comment - you can get the third bolt (the one under the intake manifold) with a 1/4" mini ratchet, 4-5" extension, a swivel attachment and 8mm socket. Works wonderfully.
Appreciate 0
      04-17-2013, 10:43 AM   #97
crystaweizen
Second Lieutenant
crystaweizen's Avatar
United_States
10
Rep
233
Posts

Drives: Alpine White '08 135i
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Washington

iTrader: (0)

Garage List
2008 BMW 135i  [5.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Synergy View Post
for those who don't know if you need this done or not, i posted pictures of my engine here:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=512950

if your engine looks like this, you need this done
is the part for a 135i the same? i have a leak in that area and after looking closely it almost looks like there is a sharp metal gasket in between te filter housing and head. i would love to know if it is in fact a rubber seal or a metal gasket on an 08 e82 with n54 thanks!
Appreciate 0
      04-24-2013, 09:50 AM   #98
liferuiner316
Registered
United_States
0
Rep
3
Posts

Drives: 06 325xi, 96 SC VR6 gti
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: NY

iTrader: (0)

this is a great DIY
Appreciate 0
      04-29-2013, 08:44 AM   #99
7daysaweek
Private
1
Rep
76
Posts

Drives: 2007 328i Sedan (sport)
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: NC

iTrader: (0)

Did this yesterday and I didn't have as easy a time as it sounds like some of you did. I have a 2007 328i with the N52 engine.

I was not able to get the bolt underneath the manifold with the 8mm ratcheting wrench (it stripped the bolt head almost instantly. I ended up taking off the oil pressure switch to try and get a little extra room, didn't help much, finally had to remove the intake manifold (along with all the covers on top of it) to finally get to the bolt and remove it.

I also had trouble with the lower bolt on the front side of the housing (the furthest towards the front of the engine, on the bottom with the head facing opposite the other two). I was able to break this one free with the 8mm wrench however the wrench ended up bottoming out on the mount for the hose going into the head just under this bolt. Being a ratcheting wrench I obviously couldn't just thread it back in so I ended up having to remove this hose in order to get that bolt out. Not a big deal but something I didn't see mentioned (maybe I missed it) and figured I'd mention for anyone else trying this.

Anyway, my gasket came out in one piece, didn't notice anything in the coolant which kinda surprised me (I'm at 133k miles, much more than some others in here). Saved a bunch of money and learned a lot so pretty happy with it. Thanks for the DIY.
Appreciate 0
      05-19-2013, 11:52 PM   #100
tc328
First Lieutenant
156
Rep
393
Posts

Drives: 328
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: bstny

iTrader: (3)

Garage List
2007 3  [0.00]
looks to be e10 torx

Last edited by tc328; 06-01-2013 at 04:50 PM.
Appreciate 0
      06-01-2013, 04:51 PM   #101
ska///235i
***** noob
ska///235i's Avatar
United_States
484
Rep
10,280
Posts

Drives: 325xi>M235i>428GCx Mspor
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Boston

iTrader: (34)

Garage List
2006 325xi  [0.00]
Ok, i gather all the info

its 3 bolts which are "E10" torx
torque spec is "22 nm"
gasket part # 11427537293 (around $13)


I'm going to replace mine on my next oil change and while I'm under the car I'll also drain a little coolant out to make this easier.

thanks for all the info
__________________
2006 325xi (Sold)
2014 M235I (Current)
2015 428xi Gran Coupe (STB)
Appreciate 0
      06-22-2013, 08:28 AM   #102
kodathedog
New Member
United_States
0
Rep
28
Posts

Drives: 2006 E91 325xi 6 speed wagon
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: connecticut

iTrader: (0)

I just did this yesterday along with TS and WP replacement.
I had to loosen my intake manifold (not remove) to get access to that bolt.
One thing I did not do was lubricate the new gasket. I didn't think that was necessary since it is not seeing any friction like you would with a spin on oil filter.
Pain in the ass job - I'll comment on the WP and TS in another thread.
Car has 120K miles, 325xi wagon MT6
Thank you for this DIY
Appreciate 0
      06-22-2013, 09:14 AM   #103
Efthreeoh
Major General
United_States
744
Rep
6,638
Posts

Drives: E90 & Z4 Coupe
Join Date: May 2012
Location: MARLAND

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Omni View Post
Just a quick comment - you can get the third bolt (the one under the intake manifold) with a 1/4" mini ratchet, 4-5" extension, a swivel attachment and 8mm socket. Works wonderfully.
This is the same setup I used (a 6-inch Craftsman 1/4-drive extension bar) and a 1/4-drive u-joint swivel. However, a few weeks ago I found an even better tool at a hardware store. I found a 1/4-drive flex-cable extension, which is perfect for this job. The one I found has a fully encased flex cable that let's you get right square on the bolt head. It doesn't wind up like the flex cables that are not encased.
Appreciate 0
      07-28-2013, 12:49 AM   #104
MJ777LR
Private First Class
United_States
10
Rep
133
Posts

Drives: 2007 BMW328i
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Kansas

iTrader: (1)

I tried to work at this today but could not get the third bolt under the manifold loose, even with an E10 socket, a u-joint, and a 6 inch extension. I read of a lot of folks loosening the manifold to get a better reach. How exactly is this done? Which bolts do I need to loosen to move the manifold?
Appreciate 0
      07-30-2013, 03:38 PM   #105
ska///235i
***** noob
ska///235i's Avatar
United_States
484
Rep
10,280
Posts

Drives: 325xi>M235i>428GCx Mspor
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Boston

iTrader: (34)

Garage List
2006 325xi  [0.00]
Quote:
Originally Posted by MJ777LR
I tried to work at this today but could not get the third bolt under the manifold loose, even with an E10 socket, a u-joint, and a 6 inch extension. I read of a lot of folks loosening the manifold to get a better reach. How exactly is this done? Which bolts do I need to loosen to move the manifold?
Did you take off the airbox so you have a better reach with the ext bar? If you try already and still need manifold loosen....should be the first bolt near the housing (see op 5th pic), its the one near the top of his wrench
__________________
2006 325xi (Sold)
2014 M235I (Current)
2015 428xi Gran Coupe (STB)
Appreciate 0
      07-31-2013, 11:25 AM   #106
MJ777LR
Private First Class
United_States
10
Rep
133
Posts

Drives: 2007 BMW328i
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Kansas

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the advice. I did not take off the airbox when I tried it. I did try to loosen that manifold bolt that you mentioned (and a few of the others along that row of bolts) but the manifold didn't seem to budge. Is that one bolt the only one I should have to remove to loosen the manifold?
Appreciate 0
      07-31-2013, 04:03 PM   #107
Meeni
Gateropode
Meeni's Avatar
85
Rep
2,400
Posts

Drives: BMW 330i 06
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: TN

iTrader: (0)

You need to loosen all the manifold bolts. There are like 5 or 6 nuts along the way, the threaded rod stays in the block, don't touch it. Then you can wiggle it around (not too much because the injection rail is till attached to it).

Good luck, that was a major PITA for me as well, but it went better after I actually got access.
Appreciate 0
      08-22-2013, 02:48 PM   #108
mlf
Private
1
Rep
63
Posts

Drives: 3-Series E90
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Alabama

iTrader: (0)

coolant drain plug

I have a 2010 328i (n52 engine), and am looking to change the OFH gasket over the weekend. I've seen many suggest to go ahead and drain quart or two of the coolant as it is worth it to prevent a mess. My question is where is the drain plug at? Is it difficult to get to? Looks like the radiator drain plug might not be accessible without taking off that underpanel underneath the car? If that's the case, and especially since I don't have any ramps, I might just skip the drain part and try to capture as much of the coolant as I can when I remove the housing. At least one poster mentioned how easy it was to drain the coolant, so I'm assuming there must be a plug somewhere that is easily accessible.
Appreciate 0
      10-19-2013, 12:40 PM   #109
ice_nyne
Perpetual Kickdown Mode
ice_nyne's Avatar
United_States
0
Rep
37
Posts

Drives: 2011 N51 M Sport
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: So Cal

iTrader: (0)

Bavauto sells this gasket for $15 btw. Part # 11 42 7 537 293
Appreciate 0
      11-04-2013, 04:01 PM   #110
buffalony
New Member
0
Rep
25
Posts

Drives: 2006 330i
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: buffalo ny

iTrader: (0)

housing gasket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Meeni View Post
You need to loosen all the manifold bolts. There are like 5 or 6 nuts along the way, the threaded rod stays in the block, don't touch it. Then you can wiggle it around (not too much because the injection rail is till attached to it).

Good luck, that was a major PITA for me as well, but it went better after I actually got access.
I did this past weekend on my 2006 330i, drained some coolant, removed air box, the air box shroud, but did not have to loosen the IM. I simply used a 6inch extension and a universal joint (quater inch) from sears for about 14 dollars. Over all the worst part was cleaning the old oil up. I suggest you bleed the coolant system twice before driving to get all the air out.

Over all it can be done with about 50 dollars worth of tool(that is if you own nothing already) and 45 minutes of your time. if anyone has any questions feel free to ask.
Appreciate 0
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:23 PM.




e90post
e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST