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  DIY - E90 Oil Change (with Pics! - 56K Beware)
e90wraith
09-22-2005
E90 Oil Change (DIY)



I would like to share my experience of changing the oil in my 2006 BMW 325i (e90) with sport package. My car has only 2300 miles on it, but I thought I should do a post break-in period oil change. ...
  #220  
By 330ignite on 04-17-2009, 12:25 PM
this is awesome, hopefully it will work for 330i
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  #221  
By canrhea on 04-26-2009, 12:42 PM
subscribed
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  #222  
By Smithd1365 on 05-14-2009, 01:38 PM
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Smile the oil drain valve

Does anybody know the oil drain valve?
www.qwikvalve.com
It replaces your oil drain plug and you can drain the oil without tools. I think it is really good idea to save your time and your oil pan stripping the threads. If somebody has already installed it, I would appreciate your sharing the experience.
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  #223  
By FrankoQ on 05-14-2009, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithd1365 View Post
Does anybody know the oil drain valve?
www.qwikvalve.com
It replaces your oil drain plug and you can drain the oil without tools. I think it is really good idea to save your time and your oil pan stripping the threads. If somebody has already installed it, I would appreciate your sharing the experience.
I have this on my Mitsubishi SUV. It's been there for about 5 years and it works perfectly. Get the one with the nipple so you can plug a hose to it and avoid making a mess.
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  #224  
By jpsum on 05-14-2009, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smithd1365 View Post
Does anybody know the oil drain valve?
www.qwikvalve.com
It replaces your oil drain plug and you can drain the oil without tools. I think it is really good idea to save your time and your oil pan stripping the threads. If somebody has already installed it, I would appreciate your sharing the experience.
Great product! I want one for my camry... I change the oil once a month. Wish the price was lower though.
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  #225  
By Beemertech on 05-16-2009, 01:08 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by e90wraith View Post
The car does not automatically reset the maintenance indicator after an oil change. It has no way of knowing whether you've changed the oil or not. I have heard that on the e90, you can reset the maintenance indicator with the on-board computer, sans an external reset tool (required for the previous 3-series), although I haven't tried it myself nor do I know the exact procedure. Personally, I wouldn't reset the indicator until my next scheduled free oil change by the dealer. I would let the dealer reset it at that time. If I were to reset it now, I would be delaying my free oil change. The dealer will only care whether the indicator is lit, not the actual last oil change interval. I'll worry about resetting the indicator when my free maintenance period is over. For now, I'll just enjoy!
E46s did not require a special tool to reset the CBS (condition based services) minder either, although the process was a lot more complicated on the E46.
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  #226  
By AlanAZ on 08-22-2009, 10:46 AM
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I too have an 06 325i sport, but the bolt is in the bottom of the sump (as opposed to the side in these photos), passenger side forward. It is recessed up a bit to protect the bolt. I saw an xi sump photo with same sump as mine.

I jacked and placed a jack stand under the driver side front jacking point only, and then a couple of hours later, jacked the rear driver side to make the drain hole as low in the sump as possible, and more drained from the sump. I drained it after a 20 min drive, and let it drain over night.

I have put 7.5 quarts of new oil in total, I started with a 6.9 quart fill, and each week would check the electronic gauge and add another 4 fluid oz of oil until it reached max. I can't say that you'll drain the same as me using the above method, and I do not want you to overfill, that would be bad.

After driving for a couple hundred miles, the oil on the filler cap was still quite transparent. So it appears that I was successful in getting most of the old oil out (this was the change over from factory oil to Mobil 1 0W40, so I was being extra thorough..)

As an added benefit, I found that it reduced the idle vibration at extremely high Arizona outside temps. See this tread for more details:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...t=98179&page=2
Last edited by AlanAZ; 09-23-2010 at 02:30 PM. Reason: correction
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  #227  
By KLund1 on 01-07-2010, 06:43 PM
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Great thread!!! very helpful!!!
Several questions for my automatic 2006 e90:

What size threads would I need to get to be able to use the 'Quickvalue' mentioned above?

What dose the actual label name say for the correct grade on synthetic oil? I looked at Autozone and saw several different Mobil 1's. non were 0w30, one was 5w30, all were synthetic, none said LL01 on the label. Same for the Castrol bottles. BTW I'm in California. I need to know the exact labeling for the oil that I can purchase here.

There were 2 different types of filters for my e90, one for 'heat exchange' and one without. How do I know which to get? And will it have the O-rings and crush gasket in the box?

Thanks
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  #228  
By AlanAZ on 01-14-2010, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
What dose the actual label name say for the correct grade on synthetic oil? I looked at Autozone and saw several different Mobil 1's.
Mobil 1 0W40. It is the only Mobil 1 that meets LL-01. I buy it at Checker.

Quote:
There were 2 different types of filters for my e90, one for 'heat exchange' and one without. How do I know which to get? And will it have the O-rings and crush gasket in the box?
Only use an OEM filter, from a dealer if you need local pick-up, or from one of the many on-line BMW part suppliers, ie: Tischer BMW, Bavauto, etc. The ones at a regular auto supply store can restrict oil flow and will not last the distance. The OEM filter will come with new washer and O-rings.
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  #229  
By ///Mik3 on 01-28-2010, 12:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanAZ View Post
I jacked and placed a jack stand under the driver side front jacking point only, and then later jacked the rear driver side to make the drain hole as low in the sump as possible to drain as much old oil as I could. I drained it after a 20 min drive, and let it drain over night.
I've actually been told that that's bad for the motor to let it cool down completely while there is no oil in it.
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  #230  
By AlanAZ on 01-28-2010, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
I've actually been told that that's bad for the motor to let it cool down completely while there is no oil in it.
How is this different from when you turn the engine off every night?

The only difference is the oil is draining through the sump into a pan, rather than staying the sump. And you're then filling the sump with fresh oil before starting.

You do want to prime the new filter properly with oil so that you're not starving the engine on initial start.
Last edited by AlanAZ; 01-29-2010 at 10:25 AM.
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  #231  
By Lagger1 on 02-03-2010, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mik3 View Post
I've actually been told that that's bad for the motor to let it cool down completely while there is no oil in it.
+1, bad for your rod bearings
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  #232  
By rault18 on 02-12-2010, 06:18 AM
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so about 7 hrs ago i finished my first oil change.

All i can say coming from a highly moddes STi is:
This was too easy!!!!!!!!

Oil was DISGUSTING. really thin really dirty...and when i poured it out it did not fill more than 5 qts ..im sure i was running really low

The filter was nasty. The location of it is so accesible ..and that thing is tight hard!!

I used a BMW oem filter that actually was cheaper than others...10 bucks for a filter is a great price! from the dealership too

As for oil. I get my friends Amsoil dealer account so i get everything at cost. So i went with a 5w 40 european ll 01 approved oil. drove it for a couple hours and oh boy huge difference. Cant beat 6.5 dollars per qt for a great oil!

PRoceeded to reset my oil service mark . which was really easy following the tutorials

In all and all this thread made my life easier!. Thanks for the info!

pic of the filter n some of the old oil

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  #233  
By SydneyE90Owner on 03-03-2010, 11:27 PM
Hi, Thank you for your oil change post. Im having trouble with a recent oil/filter change on my E90. Its leaking from the filter housing and im assuming its the latge O ring. I positioned it in the large(widest) groove but its still leaking. Does the O ring have to be positioned all the way to the top of the thread
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  #234  
By John_01 on 03-06-2010, 02:33 AM
There is a fairly large grove to locate the O-ring. I recall it is near upper side of the cap. Inner and outer O-rings are supplied with the Genuine BMW filter as part of a kit, so maybe this is an economical way to buy them. When I did my oil change, I didn't see any reason to change the O-rings so I still have the spares. Probably I will change it next time.
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  #235  
By rcpao on 03-18-2010, 12:57 PM
If you have a driveway which slants/angles down from the garage (which should be flat), put the ramps down the driveway while your car is parked inside facing them. When you pull your car out of the garage and onto the ramps, you might get just enough clearance to not push the ramps away before the tires bite them. It might also level out your car a little more once they are on the ramps.

A neighbor taught me this trick.
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  #236  
By Chriztofor on 03-19-2010, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by e90wraith View Post
The car does not automatically reset the maintenance indicator after an oil change. It has no way of knowing whether you've changed the oil or not. I have heard that on the e90, you can reset the maintenance indicator with the on-board computer, sans an external reset tool (required for the previous 3-series), although I haven't tried it myself nor do I know the exact procedure. Personally, I wouldn't reset the indicator until my next scheduled free oil change by the dealer. I would let the dealer reset it at that time. If I were to reset it now, I would be delaying my free oil change. The dealer will only care whether the indicator is lit, not the actual last oil change interval. I'll worry about resetting the indicator when my free maintenance period is over. For now, I'll just enjoy!
Easy way to reset oil, plugs etc (No cable or external tool required!) ... http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=360706
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  #237  
By xman11 on 03-26-2010, 05:02 PM
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Did this on a 2007 328i

Great write up. Did the oil change last night on a friend's 2007 328i 6-spd.
The oil drain plug points straight down on this model as well.

We didn't have the strap wrench and wasn't able to loosen it by hand.
So, we had to make our own using locking pliers and some rope.
Attached Images
 
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  #238  
By karimz on 03-27-2010, 02:58 PM
2 for 4 dollar wheat thins?! deal. nice right up btw.
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  #239  
By 777ER on 03-28-2010, 01:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xman11 View Post
Great write up. Did the oil change last night on a friend's 2007 328i 6-spd.
The oil drain plug points straight down on this model as well.

We didn't have the strap wrench and wasn't able to loosen it by hand.
So, we had to make our own using locking pliers and some rope.
You know bavauto.com and bmwtools.com sells the oil filter cap socket? Makes it a breeze and can use a torque wrench to torque it down to the right setting...
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  #240  
By Lagger1 on 04-01-2010, 03:09 PM
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I just did my first last week, same as post #49. Lowered on pro-kit w/ 19's and the 2-ton jack fit under rear jack point with like 1/4" clearance. No ramps needed.

Also, I recommend this filter wrench

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...=filter+wrench

Buy it at Autozone for $8.99. WAY better than straps or jaws. $30 cap removal tools are overrated. GL
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  #241  
By syl2us on 04-02-2010, 06:54 PM
When you guys changed your oil... did you flush the system (i.e. left drain plug open and poured some oil to flush it, then cap it and then fill it?) or did you just drain, replug and refill?
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