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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Front door lock actuator replacement (E90)



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  DIY: Front door lock actuator replacement (E90)
tracerit
01-17-2011
First of all, I just want to say that the instructions below were not written by me. The pictures were not taken by me. The user cisfinmark replied to one of my threads with this DIY guide when I mentioned I had door lock issues but he's no longer active (last login was in Oct 2010). I searched...
  #66  
By richeerich03 on 07-24-2013, 07:48 AM
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I had this same issue, but both my rear doors would not open from inside and out. I figured out how to do it. I posted a thread in the picture section.

Use a flat-head screw driver and push on the cam in the direction of the arrow (green) while pushing down on the linkage hook (yellow). Should pop right open. I did it on both doors and it worked like a charm. Just to make sure I got this right, I closed my doors a couple times and repeated the process.

I modified this picture from TyPe-ZeRo. I didn't take one up close when I did this.




Hope this helps.
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  #67  
By Higgs1 on 08-30-2013, 07:20 PM
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Just wanted to throw my thanks in this thread!

My fuse blew a few weeks ago leaving me having only access to my drivers door, got the fuses switched, all seemed well, then my passenger door stopped working.

Ordered the set of actuators offline for about $70 shipped (both drivers & passengers) and just installed passengers today while doing an oil change, really really easy thanks to this DIY!

Took maybe an hour and a half total for the oil change + the actuator. No need for trim tools, pulled the trim, including the door handle right off without issue. Didn't disconnect the battery either.

Now I'm not scared I'll forget to manually lock my passenger door and come back to have all my stuff stolen! Excellent!
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  #68  
By flathead on 09-20-2013, 08:59 AM
Hi Everybody,

I encountered a similar issue with the locking mechanism on my 2001 330xi last night, and I was hoping to see if anybody knows what the source of the issue could be.

I attempted unlocking my car earlier this evening, however, upon turning the key on the driver's side, none of the doors would unlock. The previous owner had lost the main fob key, so I have to manually unlock the doors with the valet key. Since the trunk lock has never been used, the driver's side lock is basically the only way for me to get into my car. Long story short, I had to call a locksmith to pry the door open and hit the main unlock button to get in. The lock twists as it would normally, however, nothing happens when I attempt to unlock it now.

In recent weeks I've noticed that when I twist the key a second time to unlock the passenger doors, it only works about half of the time and I ultimately have to get in the car and open the doors manually (or with the main unlock button, which sometimes doesn't work either). I've never had an issue with the driver side until now. Could this be an actuator issue? Any information on the matter would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
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  #69  
By AviatorBimmer on 09-30-2013, 03:26 AM
Hey guys, getting ready to tackle the pax side door of my 2007 E92, but before I order the actuator, I need to make sure it is indeed the actuator that has gone bad.

When pressing the central locking button, the door lock stalk for the driver side door goes up and down as expected and I'm able to open the door without a problem. The pax door lock stalk does not move at all. If I pull on the interior door handle of the pax door, the lock stalk pops out but the door will not open. Everytime I pull on the interior handle, the lock stalk pops up but door does not open.

All fuses checked out and have their stock amperage ratings. Should I still go ahead and replace the fuse with a 20 amp just in case?

Is my problem the actuator indeed?

Thanks for any help...
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  #70  
By 4EST on 10-05-2013, 04:01 PM
you seem to have a mechanical problem. Door should open after first pulling from the inner door handle (when the stalk pops out)
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  #71  
By AviatorBimmer on 10-06-2013, 03:47 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4EST
you seem to have a mechanical problem. Door should open after first pulling from the inner door handle (when the stalk pops out)
Nop, it was the actuator indeed. Replaced it and now it's all good.
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  #72  
By khodo on 11-17-2013, 10:53 PM
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Contributing from what I learned today when I changed the front passenger door actuator:

-I left the window all the way up and had no issues
-The window regulator needs to be loosened and moved to the left to allow you to remove the actuator

Thanks for the write up!
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  #73  
By mls6722 on 11-29-2013, 12:01 AM
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This DIY rocks

I have had the same experience documented here. I just wanted to let folks know that I was able to locate a kit (p/n 51217263086) containing both left (p/n 51217202143) and right (p/n 51217202146) front door actuators at www.OEMBimmerparts.com for $94.50 with free shipping.

That is about 1/2 the price of the actuators purchased separately.

I found the same kit part number at www.KOperformance.com for less $ , but read some posts about bad experience with this vendor. My suggestion is to avoid them and go with OEMBimmerparts which had many good reviews

Update: I received the parts from OEMBimmerparts. They are legit - this is the place to go for these parts.
Last edited by mls6722; 12-07-2013 at 02:00 AM.
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  #74  
By executioner on 02-06-2014, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mls6722 View Post
I have had the same experience documented here. I just wanted to let folks know that I was able to locate a kit (p/n 51217263086) containing both left (p/n 51217202143) and right (p/n 51217202146) front door actuators at www.OEMBimmerparts.com for $94.50 with free shipping.

That is about 1/2 the price of the actuators purchased separately.

I found the same kit part number at www.KOperformance.com for less $ , but read some posts about bad experience with this vendor. My suggestion is to avoid them and go with OEMBimmerparts which had many good reviews

Update: I received the parts from OEMBimmerparts. They are legit - this is the place to go for these parts.
Wish I had seen that post when I was about to purchase mine. My driver's side actuator cost me more than the kit that includes both and could have a spare when the other one breaks.

Replacing is not difficult took me about two hours total work. Window was all the way up and just unscrewed the black metal thing to get the actuator out from the bottom. Did not remove anything else. Just have patience and don't force things.
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  #75  
By TitanLH8 on 03-19-2014, 02:39 AM
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Thanks for posting these instructions OP, just replaced my driver door actuator, saving me a good chunk of $$$
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  #76  
By devil24 on 03-23-2014, 10:44 AM
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Hi guys,
I have one doubt and if anyone could help me to solve it, it will be great.
I tried to change but when I try to put the three Torx-30 screws that hold the actuator on the new one, the holes is not suitable for screws, as you can see in the picture, and I canīt hold the actuator to the door.

Did this happen to someone too?

I send a picture from the tutorial to show what i mean.
http://postimg.org/image/4jnokd94f/

Thanks
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  #77  
By TitanLH8 on 03-26-2014, 12:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devil24 View Post
Hi guys,
I have one doubt and if anyone could help me to solve it, it will be great.
I tried to change but when I try to put the three Torx-30 screws that hold the actuator on the new one, the holes is not suitable for screws, as you can see in the picture, and I canīt hold the actuator to the door.

Did this happen to someone too?

I send a picture from the tutorial to show what i mean.
http://postimg.org/image/4jnokd94f/

Thanks
I changed my actuator to the exact same one in your picture but I didn't have any trouble with the Torx-30 screws. They should match with the original screw holes.
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  #78  
By devil24 on 03-26-2014, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TitanLH8 View Post
I changed my actuator to the exact same one in your picture but I didn't have any trouble with the Torx-30 screws. They should match with the original screw holes.
Yes I did change yesterday but I did go to dealer and they have told me how to solve it.
It was like you say, it was with the original screws, they open the hole.

Thanks for your help
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  #79  
By elcheapoloco on 03-29-2014, 02:46 PM
Thanks to everyone who had contributed to this thread, I got it done just under two hours without having to mess with the glass or anything outside the door. But I did spend more than 30 minutes trying to slide the damn thing out. And managed to cut myself in the process. But the rest is simple enough.

All in all, $80 and a couple hours sure beats paying the dealer $400.
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  #80  
By Rackers on 04-30-2014, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcheapoloco View Post
Thanks to everyone who had contributed to this thread, I got it done just under two hours without having to mess with the glass or anything outside the door. But I did spend more than 30 minutes trying to slide the damn thing out. And managed to cut myself in the process. But the rest is simple enough.

All in all, $80 and a couple hours sure beats paying the dealer $400.
Same here. I have been successful in replacing the passengers actuator today. No need to remove the glass.

I didn't touch the window, left it fully up as it gives you maximum room to move the regulator, otherwise it is just in the way.

Remove and loosen the respective bolts in the picture below and you can manoeuvre the window regulator and the actuator literally will slide right out. Careful though as I did cut my hands!



Hope this helps someone as it certainly helped me! Managed it in 1hr 30m.
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  #81  
By Greatdane84 on 05-26-2014, 08:55 AM
Thanks for the right up! Actually took this all apart just to realize it was ONLY THE FUSE. So that was frustrating. Looks like I can return the actuator that cost me $100 for one to FCP.

My issue was the driver door wouldn't lock or unlock with key FOB. Then a few days later it started to unlock with the key FOB but I had to manually lock. Ended up being FUSE 61 I believe. Bottom left 15 amp fuse that should be replaced with a 20amp
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  #82  
By afineout on 06-07-2014, 09:07 PM
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I Have this same problem

I am not even able to get my door open! I need help! Has anyone gotten the door open while the actuator is broken in the locked position? I can hear the Actuator make the normal unlocking noise but it wont unlock. I have checked all the fuses related to door locks and non of them are blown. I already bought a new actuator and brought the car to the dealership to try to open the door and they said they are booked for a week! PLEASE HELP!
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  #83  
By afineout on 06-08-2014, 09:26 PM
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Ahh! Never mind! I finally got it open by pushing on the door from the outside and unlocking it with the key simultaneously.
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  #84  
By rajeshchand on 07-18-2014, 10:29 AM
Nice DIY, my 325i gave up on the same issue around a month back, then the fuse was changed and it worked till a week back. Now it has completely given up and the dealership wants to change the front actuators in pair. The price quoted is exorbitant, hence was looking around websites to get it imported to India which comes to half the price quoted at dealership. But face a typical problem.

I find the part nos 51217202144 and 51217202145 for the right and left driver side actuators in pair as given by the BMW dealership in India, however all international websites including realoem comes up with part nos 51217202143 and 51217202146 as the part nos. Is this issue due to the difference in left hand drive and right hand drive vehicles ? Also can the parts for left hand drive go into a right hand drive vehicle ?
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  #85  
By techwhiz on 07-28-2014, 01:25 PM
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Mine just went south. Driver's door will lock but will not unlock.
No need to check fuses since it locks fine.

Dealers are trying to get double for the kit. Claiming $128.
I'll order online.
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  #86  
By leroixp on 07-29-2014, 11:51 AM
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about passenger front actuator

In my case, i tried changing fuses to 20amp and nothing, the passenger front lock still only locking, sometimes the actuator responses and the door unlocks but only a few times.
I disassembly the door and remove the actuator and i tried to open the actuator and for my sorprise, one of the gears inside of the actuator was broken then im thinking that is the main reason that the door wont unlock, only Works doing manually the inside door handle, one time to unlock or two times to open the door.
Im thinking about to buy a new one actuator, but i was Reading in some other pages people saying that you need to change both actuators in front case, in rear you can change only the bad actuator.... what do you think? is that true? ....im thinkind that could be paired both front actuators, because in other hand, it has no sense.
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  #87  
By techwhiz on 08-09-2014, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leroixp View Post
In my case, i tried changing fuses to 20amp and nothing, the passenger front lock still only locking, sometimes the actuator responses and the door unlocks but only a few times.
I disassembly the door and remove the actuator and i tried to open the actuator and for my sorprise, one of the gears inside of the actuator was broken then im thinking that is the main reason that the door wont unlock, only Works doing manually the inside door handle, one time to unlock or two times to open the door.
Im thinking about to buy a new one actuator, but i was Reading in some other pages people saying that you need to change both actuators in front case, in rear you can change only the bad actuator.... what do you think? is that true? ....im thinkind that could be paired both front actuators, because in other hand, it has no sense.
They both come in the same kit, and the same defect or whatever affect them both. This is why they suggest replacing both. The kit for both actuators is about $80 from Tischer (GetBMWParts.com).

I just replaced the drivers door latch right before posting.
The DIY is good and I would have taken longer without it.

FYI - I used some of the sticky door panel stuff on the tip of my allen wrench to get the lock cover off. I took the bolt all the way out.

I removed the bottom 10mm nut on the regulator closest the latch.
You can get the latch past the regulator track, it's just a bitch to do it.

It took me about 2.5 hours to get it done.
I can probably do the passenger side in about half that now I know what to expect. That's a job for a different weekend though.

Anyway, this DIY is very valuable.

Oh, and Ilke just about everyone else I broke on of those clips holding wires to the actuator. There is just know way to get the one off the side without breaking it.
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