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      06-01-2012, 04:51 AM   #23
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Same Issue

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Originally Posted by Helmsdini View Post
Very informative... Has this solved your problems, or have they returned? I had a horrible up shift develop that would sporadically cause a hard jerk up shifting, and sometimes a clunk at nearly a dead stop. I had my DME updated last week and the up shifts are now perfect, but when downshifting at about 30 mph I get a noticable jerk now and the car seems to slow aggressively, as if it has downshifted too early. I don't remember having this issue until the DME "learned" the shift points after the update. I tried to reset the shift memory but it didn't work... Next step might be to try this seal if it did the trick for you.
It seems to have worked for me. Keep in mind, my problem was an extreme rough downshift from 2nd into 1st when coming to a complete stop. If this is not your issue, I CANNOT guarantee this "fix" will fix your shifting problem, but it may.
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      06-01-2012, 08:23 AM   #24
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I sometimes had a jerk when downshifting 2-1 near a stop, in city driving conditions. Took it to the dealer and they reset the tranny adaptations.
Did not reproduce since (1year+)
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      02-23-2013, 07:31 PM   #25
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I Faced the same problem in my E90 but the dealer in egypt advised me to change the transmission and to pay for it , the car still there & we didn't solve the problem till now , really i hate the brand Bmw
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      04-20-2013, 12:43 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmahdymohamed View Post
I Faced the same problem in my E90 but the dealer in egypt advised me to change the transmission and to pay for it , the car still there & we didn't solve the problem till now , really i hate the brand Bmw
Don't waste your money on a new transmission that you do not need. Have them replace the solenoids...or do it yourself if they will not. The job really is not that difficult.
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      04-20-2013, 07:32 AM   #27
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Just a thought....some of you have the GM transmissions, others have the Z.....

double check which one you have first....GM is different.

You can find an identification tag on the side of the tranny.....or look it up based on your cars ID number.

GM trannys have different issues!....they are almost as much fun as the Z!



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      08-09-2013, 01:56 AM   #28
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Any news on this didnt really notice it untill i drove other cars lately cant believe my friends 300 and ford taurus with almost double miles cant feel shifts at all but i was use to it bcus both my benz an bmw are doing this
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      08-09-2013, 03:47 AM   #29
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Solenoids

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Originally Posted by Tony v View Post
Any news on this didnt really notice it untill i drove other cars lately cant believe my friends 300 and ford taurus with almost double miles cant feel shifts at all but i was use to it bcus both my benz an bmw are doing this
After replacing all the solenoids and completing a transmission service (filter and fluid) about a year ago, I have had NO issues. Shifts like a champ. I don't remember if I did a DIY or not on this...it is not difficult and relatively inexpensive when compared to what the dealer will charge you for a new transmission!
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      08-09-2013, 02:48 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
After replacing all the solenoids and completing a transmission service (filter and fluid) about a year ago, I have had NO issues. Shifts like a champ. I don't remember if I did a DIY or not on this...it is not difficult and relatively inexpensive when compared to what the dealer will charge you for a new transmission!
oh i see so this got rid of the hard 123 shifts and 2nd to 1st symptoms? im guessing it was mainly the solenoids
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      08-09-2013, 04:38 PM   #31
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Quote:
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oh i see so this got rid of the hard 123 shifts and 2nd to 1st symptoms? im guessing it was mainly the solenoids
You are correct...
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      08-09-2013, 04:59 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
After replacing all the solenoids and completing a transmission service (filter and fluid) about a year ago, I have had NO issues. Shifts like a champ. I don't remember if I did a DIY or not on this...it is not difficult and relatively inexpensive when compared to what the dealer will charge you for a new transmission!
Hi all and thanks for all your input on this gearbox problem that I tought it was rare.

My problem is the same as all of you with slight diferences.

ENGINE COLD (no warming up engine): No jerk problem when coming to a stop but delays the gear change from 1st to 2nd ONE TIME ONLY

ENGINE WARM (warm the engine before driving): No problem at all, all down and up shifts good

ENGINE WARMER (10-15 min city driving): Jerking problem when coming to a stop everytime and starts from very little to harder. Aleatory shifting and downshifting delay, barely noticeable.

ENGINE WARMER (highway driving): NO problems at all, I could drive for hours with no issues UNTIL I got to a stop then I will get a hard downshitf from 2nd to 1st.

If I leave the car up or downhill for more than 20 minutes... the first gear shift kicks one time only.

I tought there was a leak at the Mechatronic sleeve so I changed it myself with new Oil and Pan. Problem still the same.

MY TOUGHTS:

Since the problem seems to be related to temperature or movement of the oil transmission, I think that probably I didnt fill up enough oil (I followed all the directions to top it) its seems that the problem shows up when the oil reach all gears. When I check the oil level its fine I cant fill up more.

I really need help to fix this problem that is driving me nuts!

I can go ahead and order the selenoids but do I need to reprogram the mechatronic after that? or is just plug and play? I live in Cabo San Lucas Mexico and the closest dealer is 1,500 miles away so I have to do it myself but I have no way to program or reflash it.

I prefer not to change the whole body since its $1,500 plus $500 core. Solenoids are only $500 and my time.

Thanks for your recomendations and toughts.

Best Regards
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      08-09-2013, 05:49 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
You are correct...
thats great how much was parts and labor
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      08-09-2013, 06:14 PM   #34
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Have you tried resetting your transmission?
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      08-09-2013, 07:05 PM   #35
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Have you tried resetting your transmission?
i havent how do you reset it
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      08-10-2013, 02:23 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cabobimmer View Post
Hi all and thanks for all your input on this gearbox problem that I tought it was rare.

My problem is the same as all of you with slight diferences.

ENGINE COLD (no warming up engine): No jerk problem when coming to a stop but delays the gear change from 1st to 2nd ONE TIME ONLY

ENGINE WARM (warm the engine before driving): No problem at all, all down and up shifts good

ENGINE WARMER (10-15 min city driving): Jerking problem when coming to a stop everytime and starts from very little to harder. Aleatory shifting and downshifting delay, barely noticeable.

ENGINE WARMER (highway driving): NO problems at all, I could drive for hours with no issues UNTIL I got to a stop then I will get a hard downshitf from 2nd to 1st.

If I leave the car up or downhill for more than 20 minutes... the first gear shift kicks one time only.

I tought there was a leak at the Mechatronic sleeve so I changed it myself with new Oil and Pan. Problem still the same.

MY TOUGHTS:

Since the problem seems to be related to temperature or movement of the oil transmission, I think that probably I didnt fill up enough oil (I followed all the directions to top it) its seems that the problem shows up when the oil reach all gears. When I check the oil level its fine I cant fill up more.

I really need help to fix this problem that is driving me nuts!

I can go ahead and order the selenoids but do I need to reprogram the mechatronic after that? or is just plug and play? I live in Cabo San Lucas Mexico and the closest dealer is 1,500 miles away so I have to do it myself but I have no way to program or reflash it.

I prefer not to change the whole body since its $1,500 plus $500 core. Solenoids are only $500 and my time.

Thanks for your recomendations and toughts.

Best Regards

You will NOT need to reprogram the CAS, ECU, or any other computer on the car if you only change the solenoids. However, if you replace the entire mechatronics unit, you will have to code the new one to the car. If you have BMW software or BavarianTechnic software, I would strongly encourage you to reset the transmission adaption values after replacing the solenoids, that way the transmission will "re-learn" how to shift smoothly and properly. The only way to reset the adaptions is with software, do not believe the posts that say you can press the accelerator pedal all the down for 20 seconds or whatever...that does not work.

Last edited by zigsman; 08-10-2013 at 02:35 AM. Reason: update
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      08-10-2013, 02:33 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony v View Post
thats great how much was parts and labor

I did the labor myself. It is easy enough to do with some simple tools you can pickup at Walmart or Harbor Freight. I would suggest you save the labor and do it yourself if you are up to a few hours under the car and saving LOADS in cash. There are some DIY postings on this board for completing the service. Start with that if you plan on doing this yourself. If you need some help with changing the solenoids, let me know and I'll get you some photos and a breakdown...a DIY of sorts.

Here is the cost breakdown:

Parts for the solenoid replacement: $515
Parts for a transmission service: $238

Total: $753

These are parts from the manufacturer (ZF), so no aftermarket parts here... My transmission is a ZF, not the GM. So, I can only speak to the ZF transmission issues. You are not required to complete the transmission service with the solenoid replacement. I did because my car had 120k miles on it when I did this job. Although BMW claims it's "lifetime" fluid, the manufacturer disagrees and sells the kits to do the service as recommended at 100k miles. It's up to you. Just make sure you save the fluid in a good clean container for later use if you are not going to do the service at the same time.
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      08-10-2013, 02:35 AM   #38
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Can you take a video so we can see how jerky it is? And I just suggest to keep going back or even visit another dealership, some are more helpful than others.

Also sorry for being a grammar nazi but is it so much harder to type 'to' instead of '2' or 'for' instead of '4' lol its only a 1 or 2 letter difference, totally throws me off though
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      08-10-2013, 02:38 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NH335i View Post
Have you tried resetting your transmission?

This is always the best place to start...if you have the software to do it (and I do). This worked for a very short time for me. At first, I lasted for a week or two, but more and more as I kept resetting the adaptation values, it would not work very long. It got to the point where it would only last for a few hours before the transmission started acting up again...that's how I knew it was a hardware issue, not a software issue.

None the less...I would try this first, before spending over $700 on parts. If it does not work, I would recommend the solenoid replacement along with the transmission service.

Mike
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      08-10-2013, 07:34 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
You will NOT need to reprogram the CAS, ECU, or any other computer on the car if you only change the solenoids. However, if you replace the entire mechatronics unit, you will have to code the new one to the car. If you have BMW software or BavarianTechnic software, I would strongly encourage you to reset the transmission adaption values after replacing the solenoids, that way the transmission will "re-learn" how to shift smoothly and properly. The only way to reset the adaptions is with software, do not believe the posts that say you can press the accelerator pedal all the down for 20 seconds or whatever...that does not work.
Thank you for your help I really hate this transmission issue

So, I only need to buy the selenoids and reset the transmission values right? Since I already replaced the filter, sleeve and oil I just collect the oil in a clean vase and use it again. I don't have any BMW software is the one selling on eBay from a guy in Europe will work? It's only $43 and he send the BMW software or should I better buy the BavarianTechnic software?

If I don't fix this problem do I have the risk to damage permanently the transmission?

I also notice that I have a leak between the engine and the transmission, I have no idea where is coming from. I already change the valve cover gasket.

Thanks a lot.
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      08-10-2013, 11:28 PM   #41
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Just one more question... I was looking at the selenoid kit but how do I know with kit is???? There are 3 options for the GA6HP19Z. According to Realoem my transmission part number is 24007547901

Can anyone help me? Thanks
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      08-11-2013, 06:36 AM   #42
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Quote:
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Thank you for your help I really hate this transmission issue

So, I only need to buy the selenoids and reset the transmission values right? Since I already replaced the filter, sleeve and oil I just collect the oil in a clean vase and use it again. I don't have any BMW software is the one selling on eBay from a guy in Europe will work? It's only $43 and he send the BMW software or should I better buy the BavarianTechnic software?

If I don't fix this problem do I have the risk to damage permanently the transmission?

I also notice that I have a leak between the engine and the transmission, I have no idea where is coming from. I already change the valve cover gasket.

Thanks a lot.
Yes, all you REALLY need is the solenoid kit to get this job done. I would buy an extra ltr of LifeGaurd6 fluid as well so that you have enough to top it off when you are done. I am not sure what software you are looking at on eBay, but I would not recommend you buy that. I would spend the extra money and purchase a good cable from BavarianTechnic...it will serve you very well in the future! Maybe someone close to you already has one you can borrow? You can change the solenoids and not worry about resetting the transmission and see how it drives...it might do okay, but no guarantees. I am not sure if you will permanently damage the transmission or not if you don't get this fix. If nothing else, it is a VERY uncomfortable ride when you are driving in traffic! And to address the leak between your transmission and engine, it sounds like the rear seal on your engine is leaking...this needs to be fixed. Is it engine oil leaking or transmission fluid? In order to change the rear seal, you will need to separate your engine from the transmission. It will probably required dropping the transmission out of the car to get access to the engine seal. It's a task that I am capable of taking on myself and would if it were my car, but that requires a high experience and patience level. That job might be something you leave to a professional if you are not experienced in auto mechanics.

I forgot to mention...there are a couple of ways to figure out which solenoid kit is for your transmission....first, get under your car and find the tag on the driver side of the transmission. It will be difficult to see. If you are unable to get to the tag, call or email the CTSC in California and give them your entire VIN, they will be able to tell you which kit to order.
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      08-11-2013, 09:44 AM   #43
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Zigsman, thanks for all the info on this. I have a GM and have jerky downshifts when coasting in DS, not much in D. Good to know what the options are for fixing.
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      08-11-2013, 10:48 AM   #44
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This whole thread is one big argument for the benefits of driving a manual
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