[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

I like the progress being made!

Do you agree that the oil probably goes Up through E? So, it enters in the middle of the filter then is forced outside of it, then back down the side?

No, I think that the oil enters in the middle of the filter which is "B" and I believe that once the oil is filtered then it exits through "E".

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

I changed my oil today and found some more info.
There's no way that the oil enters the filter through D.
This D hole is plugged with the filter carrier so D looks to be only for excess oil when doing a filter change.
"B" looks to be the only entry point for pre-filtered oil and "E" looks to route the filtered oil

Are you sure? There is a hole in the engine block for D.

Alright, I'm officially confused. I would think one would want filtered oil to go through the oil cooler but it doesn't seem to be the case if oil goes from inside to outside the filter?

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by jzchen

Are you sure? There is a hole in the engine block for D.

Alright, I'm officially confused. I would think one would want filtered oil to go through the oil cooler but it doesn't seem to be the case if oil goes from inside to outside the filter?

I know but the only reason that i can see is that it's there for drainage for when you change the oil filter.
The O ring plugs up that hole when the filter cartridge is installed.
This is most likely why that area on the block is brown compared to the other areas. Since there is no flow through that area, oil can just sit around that area until it drains.

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

There is no "bypass" between A and B in the housing with no OC, but you can see the part with no gasket is a tad bit sunken in. You can see in between A and B.

I don't know if this helps anyone with this puzzle, but hole A is where the oil pressure switch attaches, (which continues on to the thermostat in those with the oil cooler thermostat small hole.) There is a spring inside the oil filter cap but it doesn't seem to move much, as per Mr. 5's claim that D is plugged. (I tried to manipulate it but it doesn't budge more than I'd say the most 1 mm.)

Also, I decided to press in the black plunger E (this morning while my little boy is still asleep,) and it slides in with spring resistance. I am convinced from this finding that the oil goes into the oil filter from the outside. It goes to the thermostat flowing out the left (driver side) hole to the oil cooler. (I haven't tried dripping in oil into this hole yet to see if it bypasses to the other side.)

The black plunger is probably the anti-drain back valve. (It seems to be made out of metal.)

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

Also, I took more pics of the fittings that I put in for my oil cooler swap.

Now I'm beginning to think Dinan has their hoses crossed, (at least if they want flow from the top of the oil cooler to the bottom....)

EDIT

Dinan knows that flow is from bottom to top of oil cooler.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by jzchen

I don't know if this helps anyone with this puzzle, but hole A is where the oil pressure switch attaches, (which continues on to the thermostat in those with the oil cooler thermostat small hole.) There is a spring inside the oil filter cap but it doesn't seem to move much, as per Mr. 5's claim that D is plugged. (I tried to manipulate it but it doesn't budge more than I'd say the most 1 mm.)

Also, I decided to press in the black plunger E (this morning while my little boy is still asleep,) and it slides in with spring resistance. I am convinced from this finding that the oil goes into the oil filter from the outside. It goes to the thermostat flowing out the left (driver side) hole to the oil cooler. (I haven't tried dripping in oil into this hole yet to see if it bypasses to the other side.)

The black plunger is probably the anti-drain back valve. (It seems to be made out of metal.)

Even though I thought it was the other way, what you are saying makes a lot of sense.

[tlrid3r]

Alright guys I read the thread and I notice that there is basically two topics here. I have been curious to know if deleting the oil t-stat would be a safe idea and trying to understand how the factory oil t-stat works. I did find some info that may help understand how the flow on the oil t-stat work with the by-pass.

here is a aftermarket oil t-stat and a flow diagram, the pic is small but if you zoom in you can see that the flow is variable like I read some of you say.

The 1st pic shows medium flow to the cooler and low through by-pass flow. (partially open)

on the 2nd pic shows low flow to the cooler and large flow through by-pass. (closed)

on the 3rd pic shows large flow to the cooler and no flow through by-pass. (fully open)

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...thermostat.php

further in the web page it explains operation.

this is why the Stett performance cooler is the best in my opinion, because its the only one that address the oil t-stat. Every other cooler (ar, vk, hp, and dinan) definitely improves oil temp but still limited by the factory oil t-stat, but I'm worried about the Stett system cause of price and the fact its very visually different and I'm still under warranty. The systems like hp, ar, vk and dinan with black fitting almost look like stock.

the best thing would be if a aftermarket oil t-stat insert for the factory system was made at a lower temp setting. (180F) that combined with any of the system out there would be awesome.

[Mr. 5]

This is interesting and you bring up points about which idea is better but I'd like to talk about some facts of my own.

After installing the SETRAB oil cooler instead of the one that came with the VK Motorwerks OC, my oil temps have dropped an average of 20-25 degrees.
After my 45 mile commute on the way home from work, my oil temps are 210 degrees and my oil cooler is hot.
There's no way that the thermostat is meant to open at 240 degrees. Nor do I think that it fully opens at 240.

IMO, the set up that I have right now is ideal.

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

Alright guys I read the thread and I notice that there is basically two topics here. I have been curious to know if deleting the oil t-stat would be a safe idea and trying to understand how the factory oil t-stat works. I did find some info that may help understand how the flow on the oil t-stat work with the by-pass.

here is a aftermarket oil t-stat and a flow diagram, the pic is small but if you zoom in you can see that the flow is variable like I read some of you say.

The 1st pic shows medium flow to the cooler and low through by-pass flow. (partially open)

on the 2nd pic shows low flow to the cooler and large flow through by-pass. (closed)

on the 3rd pic shows large flow to the cooler and no flow through by-pass. (fully open)

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...thermostat.php

further in the web page it explains operation.

this is why the Stett performance cooler is the best in my opinion, because its the only one that address the oil t-stat. Every other cooler (ar, vk, hp, and dinan) definitely improves oil temp but still limited by the factory oil t-stat, but I'm worried about the Stett system cause of price and the fact its very visually different and I'm still under warranty. The systems like hp, ar, vk and dinan with black fitting almost look like stock.

the best thing would be if a aftermarket oil t-stat insert for the factory system was made at a lower temp setting. (180F) that combined with any of the system out there would be awesome.

[BrianMN]

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

This is interesting and you bring up points about which idea is better but I'd like to talk about some facts of my own.

After installing the SETRAB oil cooler instead of the one that came with the VK Motorwerks OC, my oil temps have dropped an average of 20-25 degrees.
After my 45 mile commute on the way home from work, my oil temps are 210 degrees and my oil cooler is hot.
There's no way that the thermostat is meant to open at 240 degrees. Nor do I think that it fully opens at 240.

IMO, the set up that I have right now is ideal.

I wish we knew more, again. When I was playing with it a few weeks ago, the thermostat didn't open when oil temps were above 230*... One would think that there is a simple temperature that would open it, and that it woudln't vary from car to car or condition to condition. Oil temp is oil temp. So if that's the case...then I would conclude my thermostat does NOT open at 235*. I've been meaning to get around to taking it apart and takign that thermostat mechanism out, but I've been swamped with the on-the-side detailing..

[Javier]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

One thing that's very strange though: the thermostat wasn't opened letting oil flow through to the oil cooler. The gauge temp was at 200*, and the oil cooler was as cold as the air. Although one must still assume the feed/return lines are as seen above, I actually wonder why/if they should be so different in temperature from just being connected to the thermostat housing.

I'm very tempted to take out that spring and try to see if there's a way to have the thermostat open the entire time...

I have always wondered about doing this also.

Let us know how it gors if u do it

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by BrianMN

I wish we knew more, again. When I was playing with it a few weeks ago, the thermostat didn't open when oil temps were above 230*... One would think that there is a simple temperature that would open it, and that it woudln't vary from car to car or condition to condition. Oil temp is oil temp. So if that's the case...then I would conclude my thermostat does NOT open at 235*. I've been meaning to get around to taking it apart and takign that thermostat mechanism out, but I've been swamped with the on-the-side detailing..

What were you doing exactly when you were "playing" with it?
It would be interesting to do the boiling water test with this when it was out the car.

[tlrid3r]

Mr.5
What have you done in the pasted when you were in the track? what cooler system were you using than?

The reason I ask also is because I want to do something to keep the temp in control but I track my cars 3 times a years and maybe 5-6 autox. I have not track the 335i yet, only done autox with. So maybe I dont have to go all out and get the stett system maybe something that will just keep the car in check as far oil temp in the track.

any suggestion?

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

This is interesting and you bring up points about which idea is better but I'd like to talk about some facts of my own.

After installing the SETRAB oil cooler instead of the one that came with the VK Motorwerks OC, my oil temps have dropped an average of 20-25 degrees.
After my 45 mile commute on the way home from work, my oil temps are 210 degrees and my oil cooler is hot.
There's no way that the thermostat is meant to open at 240 degrees. Nor do I think that it fully opens at 240.

IMO, the set up that I have right now is ideal.

[Mr. 5]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

Mr.5
What have you done in the pasted when you were in the track? what cooler system were you using than?

The reason I ask also is because I want to do something to keep the temp in control but I track my cars 3 times a years and maybe 5-6 autox. I have not track the 335i yet, only done autox with. So maybe I dont have to go all out and get the stett system maybe something that will just keep the car in check as far oil temp in the track.

any suggestion?

The highest temps that I've seen at the track is 260 at Buttonwillow in 98 degree weather.
I was using the normal VK Motorwerks oil cooler then and it seemed to do the trick but I could just imagine how it would work now with the SETRAB installed.

Another thing that I think is helping a lot is the openings in my M3 rep bumper. There is so much more flow now to my OC and IC after that install.
I took out the grills in my old bumper as well and even that seemed to help a bit.

[tlrid3r]

So the HP autowerks system is much like you got now, right? I think they use a setrab cooler. I'll ask Harold.

one more thing is VK still around?

thanks

Originally Posted by Mr. 5

The highest temps that I've seen at the track is 260 at Buttonwillow in 98 degree weather.
I was using the normal VK Motorwerks oil cooler then and it seemed to do the trick but I could just imagine how it would work now with the SETRAB installed.

Another thing that I think is helping a lot is the openings in my M3 rep bumper. There is so much more flow now to my OC and IC after that install.
I took out the grills in my old bumper as well and even that seemed to help a bit.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

So the HP autowerks system is much like you got now, right? I think they use a setrab cooler. I'll ask Harold.

one more thing is VK still around?

thanks

do you have an OEM oil cooler at all? Also, are you an auto?

[tlrid3r]

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

do you have an OEM oil cooler at all? Also, are you an auto?

Yes I have a factory cooler and yes on auto.

[mruiz929]

Does anyone know the torque on the bolts or I'd they have to be replaced? I have seapage from the thermostat plug, oil coolerlines that hook up to thermostat housing and between thermostat housing and oil filter housing. Also do you have to bleed the coolant system? Does anyone here know how to? Please help. Thanks

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

Yes I have a factory cooler and yes on auto.

You seem to think that STETT's oil cooler is the best option for you because of their lower thermostat. Personally, like Mr.5 seemed to have eluded to, I don't think its that much better than any setup with the OEM thermostat. Because your an auto, your radiator is burdened with cooling 9 Liters of trans fuid through a heat exchanger, so you will still have limp mode issues, due to water temps, eventually. My advise: since you were lucky enough to have the OEM oil cooler, just spend the money on the HP autowerks upgraded radiator. or when you race, run just water + any coolant additive like redline water wetter/motul mocool/etc

[jzchen]

Originally Posted by mruiz929

Does anyone know the torque on the bolts or I'd they have to be replaced? I have seapage from the thermostat plug, oil coolerlines that hook up to thermostat housing and between thermostat housing and oil filter housing. Also do you have to bleed the coolant system? Does anyone here know how to? Please help. Thanks

All bolts need to be replaced. 22 Nm is the torqe for oil filter housing to block, as well as thermostat housing to block. 20 Nm for hose assembly to thermostat housing. You probably need the o-rings 17 22 2 245 358 for the seapage from lines to thermostat housing. I didn't print out the instructions on how to bleed the coolant system because I didn't want to buy the tool and figure out how to connect it to my air compressor. I took advantage of the fact that the dealer would have to do so when I had the power kit installed. Thermostat plug? You mean the oil pressure switch? I had to buy the whole switch, but I'm not sure if that's really true. (It's $9.xx something wholesale.)

[tlrid3r]

Well guys,
Dinan cooler is what's going to be my choice. I like the Steet cooler but I didnt want to remove the factory thermostat cause I'm still under warranty and it looks like it will give me issue with the dealer. The Evolution Racewerks cooler is nice too but when I spoke with them asking in regards what core they use, they would not give me the info. I only buy items that I know what I'm buying. I also tried to see if I can piece together a cooler with all the good stuff that's out there but both Stett and Evolution didn't want to help me out.
Dinan cooler works well but cost more, but I get peace of mind with it, cause no hassle at the dealer. Plus its my birthday weekend and I can just drive to Dinan and pick it up and install this weekend. Awesome b-day gift for my self.

I'll keep you guys up date with further info.

[Turkeybaster115]

Originally Posted by tlrid3r

Well guys,
Dinan cooler is what's going to be my choice. I like the Steet cooler but I didnt want to remove the factory thermostat cause I'm still under warranty and it looks like it will give me issue with the dealer. The Evolution Racewerks cooler is nice too but when I spoke with them asking in regards what core they use, they would not give me the info. I only buy items that I know what I'm buying. I also tried to see if I can piece together a cooler with all the good stuff that's out there but both Stett and Evolution didn't want to help me out.
Dinan cooler works well but cost more, but I get peace of mind with it, cause no hassle at the dealer. Plus its my birthday weekend and I can just drive to Dinan and pick it up and install this weekend. Awesome b-day gift for my self.

I'll keep you guys up date with further info.

Did you read my post? also, its strange how you didn't even consider the ar design oil cooler. You can keep your stock one, and just add to it, and double the cooling capacity. Plus there is a group buy going on right now for the ar design.

[tlrid3r]

I did. but overall same thing, I just didn't like the dual core idea and the adapter piece that mounts to the thermostat is large and I will have issue with that at the dealer.

thanks for you help.

Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115

Did you read my post? also, its strange how you didn't even consider the ar design oil cooler. You can keep your stock one, and just add to it, and double the cooling capacity. Plus there is a group buy going on right now for the ar design.