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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Sticking Steering Column Lock Fix



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      04-18-2014, 12:50 AM   #111
ctuna
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Yeah I wonder if its keyed at both ends?

Yeah I wonder if its keyed at both ends?
So you don't have a alignment problem.
Also since its a pinch bolt someone mentioned that you
don' have to remove it only loosen it . And another mentioned
with the cabin filter off you might be able to access it from the
top.

Last edited by ctuna; 04-19-2014 at 01:07 AM.
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      05-06-2014, 02:07 PM   #112
ctuna
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Well I had my column replaced but kept the old part.

Well I had my column replaced but kept the old part.
So I went through the cleaning procedure and really didn't
find much wear on anything there was some brown lubricant
on some of the sliding points . Used Qtips to clean up the shaft
and there was some but not a lot of contamination around the
most used points. After cleaning reassembling and using some Lithium
Grease, I was able to manually test the mechanism by turning the
main gear first in one direction and then the other.

And there are alignment points at each end of the column in the
form of a slightly raised key , so you shouldn't have to worry about
steering wheel alignment after replacement.
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      05-28-2014, 05:53 AM   #113
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Is it better to remove the Kick panel or the Steering shroud to get to the ELV. From Fredrik and Grimery's posts it seems that only one of the two needs to be removed.
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      08-29-2014, 09:00 AM   #114
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Hello everyone. Itīs my first post here, I am from Brazil and I have been searched all over the internet about this issue. This is the best bmw forum I have found. I own a 120ia e87 2007 that I bought just with 6k miles and with 10k miles the red lights showed up when I turned off the car. Then it never disappear. The lock works perfectly, itīs just the annoying red symbol that is a problem even to sell the car.

I took the car to three indian garages, but both of them said itīs not possible to reset the counter and thereīs a mechanical problem. Itīs hard to believe in because in youtube thereīs a lot of garages showing their videos reseting the light just for 80euros.

I would like to try reset it bymyself but I donīt know how to start it. What software should I download and what cable should I buy? Is it possible to use the laptop or is it necessary to buy a special computer?

I am afraid buying the emulator and can not take this light out.

Sorry if I am boring you guys with my bad english.

Thanks for everyone that is helping other people in this forum.
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      10-04-2014, 12:55 PM   #115
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A spare ELV Emulator Available in NJ

I have a new ELV emulator from http://www.ecuvonix.com/steering-loc...ml?language=en that I no longer need. The car departed before the emulator arrived. The part is new, never installed. I soldered the pins and 3D-printed protective box as seen on the pictures. PM me if interested.
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      10-18-2014, 02:46 PM   #116
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3d print file

hi, can someone please upload a 3d print file for case to fit the elv emulator.

thank you
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      11-30-2014, 08:58 PM   #117
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I did the service of the locking mechanism, cleaned and re-greased but it was still playing up so ended up replacing the steering column and problem is fixed.

My tip for this job is to take the top cowling cover off the steering column first to release the bottom cover.. that one really made me mad trying to get it off

Also if your steering column is locked straight you can drop the steering column by releasing the four bolts to access the pinch bolt a little easier.

A ratchet torx spanner for the pinch bolt that holds the column in is a must, it is virtually impossible without some sort of ratchet tool. I managed with a ratchet and torx socket at first but ended up buying a ratchet torx spanner kit which makes life easier again.

Steering wheel can stay on to remove the column if you are just wanting to try servicing the locking mechanism but ultimately needs to come off if you are replacing the column.

I did want to try the ELV emulator which does not require removal of the steering column but my wife was not keen on it
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      12-15-2014, 06:54 PM   #118
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I just had this happen to my 07 335i. My battery was dead after the car sat for a few days in the cold. I jumped it and did a full charge and my red steering lock icon came on. The car drove fine for another week before the same thing happened again.. battery dead. This time I put it on the charger again and charged the battery full (according to my charger). Red light on and car won't start this time.

I then pulled the battery. It has a 3/11 MFR date and 3-4 years seems early for these but I took it to advance auto and they tested it. They said it tested ok but had a 70-80% pull and the window shows insufficient charge (after being on the charger overnight at 10 amps).

I bought a new autocraft gold battery and installed it and still have the red light. From the way it sounds, the dead battery caused the code and I just need to clear or have it cleared. I just bought a K+DCAN cable and plan to use the tools mentioned here to clear the counter and/or codes to hopefully get this care on the road again.
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      12-18-2014, 11:42 AM   #119
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I owe you a big thank you!! My 335i has been sitting in my driveway for a week after a dead battery left me with this red steering wheel lock. Although the lock was not engaged, the car wouldn't start.

I purchased one of the cheap cables (white circuit board too) (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1) a few days ago from seller "The Lowest Deal Zone" and followed this DIY (http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=918608) to install the software.

I booted toolset32 and ran the two commands you posted and BAM I could hear the car resetting and sure enough the lock engaged and disengaged and the car started right up!

Thanks again and I hope this helps some other people! My issue wasn't even that the motor needed cleaned, just that my battery voltage got low and when I tried to start it the car flickered. I imagine it gave the motor enough juice to disengage the lock but not re-engage it (throwing the computer and motor out of sync) so the computer through the code and refused to even attempt to engage/disengage the lock until counter was reset per these commands.


Quote:
Originally Posted by korell View Post
If you have completed this DIY (thanks yakev724) and still get that pesky yellow warning light, I found a way to clear it (credits to Micha from the German e60-forum.de). Apparently the ELV has an internal counter that causes the yellow (and red?) warning light to display. This counter can be reset using EDIABAS ToolSet32. The count is stored in the CAS and needs to be cleared in CAS and ELV. Load CAS.prg in ToolSet32 and run the commands "steuern_elvcounter_cas_loeschen" and "steuern_elvcounter_elv_loeschen".
This procedure may even unlock the locked steering column with red warning light, but I haven't had the red light since I performed the DIY. I'm assuming this because after my steering column was locked and I had towed my car to an indy shop, the mechanic was able to unlock it by "resetting" something.

BTW, this counter reset worked for me, but as with any advice you find on the Internet, you do this at your own risk. Bonjour ;-)
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      02-27-2015, 04:36 PM   #120
asiemers
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I did this exact DIY and it totally worked, no codes whatsoever. This emulator functions flawlessly.
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      04-22-2015, 09:01 AM   #121
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Hello everybody!

I Bought the cable, I downloaded software and I bought the emulator.

Well, I couldnīt install the software because something goes wrong in installation.

I found a garage that swear that they could clean the red light from the painel.

He charge me $200. Well after riding 30k miles I was desesperate already, so I did pay.

He did the job and now I have no red symbol any more.

He just plugged the computador and done!

None emulator needed or even mechinical issue.

Now I have a cable and an emulator. If anyone would like to buy it, I can send both for $200. Shipment cost included.
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      11-29-2015, 10:25 AM   #122
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hi everyone im new to this

my car has the elv red steering wheel logo on the dash but the car starts and drives well.

ive bought a emulator from ebay ive followed the steps and when I plug in the new emulator the whole car shuts down and wont start.

im really confused I thought this would solve my problem.
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      02-18-2016, 11:06 PM   #123
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Any updates with this as a matter of interest? Have any more people tried it?
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      03-23-2016, 05:59 PM   #124
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Hello guys!
I have to remove my steering column because my electric steering lock has broken. However my wheels stays in line and I can't reach bottom torx bolt. So I have a question is there any option to unscrew that bolt from engine side or from the bottom of a car? Or maybe you have some tips how to do that from inside while wheels are in straight poosiition and I can't unlock steering.
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      04-14-2016, 03:13 PM   #125
Dibbles00
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Hi, try to get a thin spanner on it. Think the size is E10. Are you replacing the column for a new one?
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      04-16-2016, 12:43 PM   #126
Dibbles00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tch330i View Post
Bummer Man!

I went through the descriptive tutorial and was surprised to see the locking mechanism was not that "sticky." I cleaned and re-lubed as directed, placed the column back in, plugged in all the wire connectors and hooked up the battery. Still got red lock and car will not start, however, the wheel is not locked ???

I am wondering if the problem is the electronic board running the locking mechanism. Anybody know how to test the board or have any other suggestions?
It's probably better and safer to purchase a new column from Phil at Cotswold BMW. It's the seventh revision so you'll have the latest version and less of a chance of it failing when you most need it.

Alternatively, as the wheel is not locked anymore you may able to get away with resetting the ELV counter via Rheingold /AutoLogic/Launch X431 etc.
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      04-18-2016, 08:10 PM   #127
Dibbles00
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After suffering failure with mine I followed this great guide and removed the column. All went well apart from getting the pinch bolt out - that took 80% of the total time due to the wheels being locked and consequently the bolt being in an extremely awkward position.

Anyway, the column came out in two pieces! Yes two pieces! I know that is not supposed to happen :\ the top half of the column came off and the splined shaft was left in the lower joint assembly, even with the M8 Torx bolt removed, which suggests the column was faulty at best. I was able to push the splined shaft back into place one both were out.

I removed the black housing from the ELV unit using some Draper safety torx screwdrivers to safely remove the security screws without damaging them.



This is where the ELV module sits:


This was the motor, which I now know was the culprit after more tests:


The reading was infinity, which indicates that the windings of the motor are open?
This would explain why I couldn't hear the motor retracting or resetting when it was being reset using toolset32.

I originally thought it was because of the bump stop and the plastic clip (see video). I even put 12v directly to the motor and nothing:


http://vid6.photobucket.com/albums/y...psz06z6ov7.mp4


Guess I was lucky in two respects:
i) It failed at home
ii) I was able to remove the pinch bolt, which my biggest worry because my wheels were about 40 degrees to the right where as the OP had then turned to the left.

Just waiting for the new column now.
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