This DIY explains how to replace the VANOS Solenoid, with failure commonly detected through the following codes.

2A82 Inlet-Vanos variable cam control test
2A87 Outlet-Vanos variable cam control test
3100 boost-pressure control, deactivation
...

Anyone? Lets keep this thread up to atract readers...

Thanks OP I did this, this morning in under 20 mins.

I did mine about 2 months ago. I was getting the code under WOT so I cleaned them with brake clean and swapped them around. Ever since then I haven't had any probs. Tha ms for this thread. Saved me some money too and only took about 20 mins.

But have you noticed smoother idle or performance? Or you just got rid of the code and no difference on other aspects?

I have a SES light on and thinking this might be the cause. Say i pull them out clean real well re install into opposite holes. Will this cause the SES light to go out or is there say a 12 start cycle procedure that has to be done, OR does it have to be cleared with the machine?

Clear it with a BMW scan tool, or OBDII scan tool.

My Car didnt really run bad before I did this I would just throw a code under wot and go into limp mode. But it does feel a smother since I've done it

I did this yesterday simply for maintenance purposes. I didn't have a light.
I have to say it's almost too easy. I did not see any debris come out other than oil that looks curdled, maybe from the throttle body cleaner causing it to look a little gelatinized?
I didn't mark which harness went to which solenoid. I just connected them to where I thought it came from. So I plugged in the longer wire coming from the top of the engine to the bottom solenoid and one coming from the bottom to thje top solenoid. I believe that's the correct order. Can anyone double check to make sure I connected them back the right way? LOL that's what happens when you do things with a mild hangover

I dont remember which is which but i am pretty sure the wires sit in a way that makes them easier to connect with their respective solenoids (hope that makes sense ) Id imagine if you did mix these up the car would throw some codes real fast!

On another note... Personally, FWIW my mentality on this is "if it aint broke dont fix it", but thats me. Not like its going to hurt anything but.

So... you are cleaning out your engine block, crankshaft, etc. ? Hope not. That is why you change the oil, so you _don't_ need to cleanup each part that needs lubrication. Unless there are symptoms or codes thrown, I don't see the value in this... as much as I'd like to hear that it improves the power or the pedal response.

I was sporadically getting the P1553 code, so I took these out and cleaned them Monday night. I definitely appreciate the reference photos, and the bits from the Bentley manual. Thanks!

This helped tremendously. Thank you!

Anyone have an idle/low load missfire that this fixed? This is what I am having and have done everything but this and no change. I think I will give this a shot. I will pull them, clean them and swap possitions and see how that goes. I do not have VANOS codes. Only missfire.

n54 335i
n52 330i

yeah thats what I meant but thanks...

I have a 07' 335i with jb2 stage 1 pinout and DCI, and I have gotten the half engine light multiple times during WOT but have not logged any errors according to bmw.. Car is fine upon reset and you can't feel any reason for the car to go into half engine mode. Does this sound like this a vanos issue? I am asking because it doesn't run rough or shudder, just goes limp

how much did you get it from tischer? thanks i need to get two solenoids from exhaust and intake

Any clear consensus on whether to clean or replace? Makes sense to clean and swap first if it is such an easy job. I am getting 2A87 consistently. 67k miles.

Well, piss. I took out the exhaust solenoid and blasted it with electronic parts cleaner. Zipped everything back up and blah, first real WOT and code. Bummer, guess I will try a new one. Damn bolt can be hard to get back in, I have big hands and it is very tough to get it lined up and threaded.

So guys If im getting NO codes, No missfires, do you still recommend this? Is your idle smoother and get a better response? I am about to do this but just want to make sure I dont waist time in doing it. From what I read, sound like a good idea and easy task. Anyone? Thanks

Hi guys,

Just to add I had to have the solenoids replaced on my 2007 335i recently. I was getting an engine warning light and crawl mode pretty much every time I started the car from cold in the morning aftert about 5 minutes driving. It would also give a code and go into crawl mode when on the track or pushing hard on the road. I tried cleaning the solenoids and BMW ran some sort of high pressure flushing procedure on them which improved the cold start warnings but not the track ones. Eventually got the solenoids replaced and this sorted the problem. Cleaning them was very easy, wish I'd just replaced them myself, would have saved a lot of money .

The errors I was getting in the logs were -
2A87 DME: Exhaust VANOS, mechanism
30FE DME: Turbocharger, boost pressure too high
2A99 DME: Crankshaft - exhaust camshaft reference
3100 DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation

Hey guys, I get the 2A87 code when I push the car hard (several multi-gear WOT pulls). I tried cleaning and swapping the position of the solenoids and I still get the same outlet code. Since I get the same code after swapping, should I even consider replacing both with new units? It's harder to get the code to pop at stock boost levels and I'm at 49,400 miles so if I was going to try to get anything done under warranty I'd need to bring it in soon, but that's a lot of de-modding I don't want to do. I'd like to figure out quickly whether I can fix this myself before warranty is no longer an option. Any thoughts/suggestions welcome. Thanks.