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      02-13-2011, 07:27 PM   #1
Jules-B
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Installed SWS and sound worse than stock

Hi all

Just in the middle of an SWS-8 install.

I have used dynamat on the inside, and the seal between the sub and the box is good.

I am running a JL 6600 amp.

After installing one sub i listened to the system and my stock speaker was sounding alot better. the SWS just didnt seem to have the same punch.

I have not had a chance to mess with the settings on the amp. could this be the only issue?.
Thanks

Jules
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      02-13-2011, 07:50 PM   #2
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Did you have the aftermarket amp connected to both subs, or was it running off of the stock amp? The difference in output could be due to a difference in impedance and sensitivity between the stock sub and the SWS.
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      02-13-2011, 07:53 PM   #3
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both subs (1 sws and 1 stock) were connected to the JL amp. As i mentioned i hadn't changed any settings on the amp yet from the set up i had with stock subs.
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      02-13-2011, 08:00 PM   #4
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Also make sure you don't have the polarity reversed on one side. This will leave one sub pushing, while the other is pulling and will cancel the bass.
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      02-13-2011, 08:33 PM   #5
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For clarity which system did you start with

What is the model year of your car ?
Did you start out with the Hi Fi , l7 or the 2010 base system stereo
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      02-15-2011, 03:28 AM   #6
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I started with the Hi-Fi system in my 09' E92

Installed Pair of SWS-8xi 2ohm subs, frontdoor/sail component speakers all factory, JL Audio XD600/6 600W 3/4/5/6 Channel Amp, 'Technic' Amp Wiring Harness, 'jtsherri' Sub Spacers.

XD600/6 has (3) pairs of RCA Input Jacks that allows you to send signals to the amp thru the use of 2, 4, or 6 differential-balanced inputs. Due to factory HU outputs (manner in which it drives all speakers) - I used CH1,2,3,&4 inputs on the amp ('Technic' harness comes with RCA Jacks for CH1,2,3,4)
  • Set the Amp to 4CH input with 6CH output
  • CH1&2 -> 100W x 2, Front Door Components, Hi Pass @ 150Hz
  • CH3&4 -> 100W x 2, Sail Panel Components, Hi Pass @ 150Hz
  • CH5&6 -> 100W x 2, SWS Underseat Subs, Low Pass @ 200Hz
  • Adjust Gains on each set of channels to suit

In this mode the Amp CH5&6 (Subs) Outputs operate with the sum of CH1/CH3 and CH2/CH4 Input Signals respectively...
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      02-15-2011, 07:34 PM   #7
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Try running off of just inputs 1 and 2. Does that sound better?
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      02-16-2011, 11:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jules-B View Post
After installing one sub i listened to the system and my stock speaker was sounding alot better. the SWS just didnt seem to have the same punch.

Jules
This is most likely a case of the stock sub/woofer being more efficient than the replacement, in which case the more efficient speaker will always be louder at the same volume and thus sound better.

Finish the install and adjust the amp for the new speakers, then judge the sound quality.
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      02-16-2011, 11:26 AM   #9
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Well if you sealed the enclosure off with dynamite you cut down the total internal volume of the enclosures as they are channelled into bigger chambers behind the side skirts.

Take the dynamat off and see if it sounds better. Or try to find that port into the chambers and unblock it.

Dynamite really isn't necessary in the enclosures. However it could be useful behind the sideksirts as the chambers will cause the side skirts to rattle with loud bass. Not sure where the exact location of the chambers are but it's somewhere behind he skirts, under the enclosures.

Last edited by fdriller9; 02-16-2011 at 11:45 AM.
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      02-16-2011, 12:26 PM   #10
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My SWS sound awesome. Way.... more bass then the stock L7 subs were putting out.
I have the 4 ohm with a Mono Rockford Fosgate amp.
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      02-16-2011, 01:09 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
Well if you sealed the enclosure off with dynamite you cut down the total internal volume of the enclosures as they are channelled into bigger chambers behind the side skirts.
Don't worry, the next pothole will set-off the DYNAMITE, and then there will be a whole lot of volume available in the enclosure...
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      02-16-2011, 02:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
Don't worry, the next pothole will set-off the DYNAMITE, and then there will be a whole lot of volume available in the enclosure...
Haha I'm on my iPhone...damn autocorrect
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      02-16-2011, 03:25 PM   #13
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I didnt block the vent hole!..Ill have a play with it tomorrow and see what happens!
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      02-16-2011, 03:42 PM   #14
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Hmm....was your stock sub running off your L7 amp? And the SWS-8 running off the JL?

If you tapped the wrong channel, you'll have an actively high passed signal above around 150Hz.
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      02-17-2011, 01:01 AM   #15
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Your problem is the SWS speakers in 2ohm...you need 4ohm with an aftermarket amp.
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      02-17-2011, 01:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UsualSuspect View Post
Your problem is the SWS speakers in 2ohm...you need 4ohm with an aftermarket amp.
Elaborate.
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      02-17-2011, 02:07 AM   #17
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I believe if you have 2 ohm, you need a 2 channel amp so each sub has its own channel. When you have 4 ohm subs, you can just run them in parallel on a mono amp.
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      02-17-2011, 06:33 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UsualSuspect View Post
Your problem is the SWS speakers in 2ohm...you need 4ohm with an aftermarket amp.
Fist of all, OP never said whether he had the 2 or 4 ohm version. Second, your statement is wrong. Most amps are designed to produce their max. output at 2 ohm.
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      02-17-2011, 08:22 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoolin335 View Post
I believe if you have 2 ohm, you need a 2 channel amp so each sub has its own channel. When you have 4 ohm subs, you can just run them in parallel on a mono amp.
An amplifier that puts out X watts @ 4-ohm mono will put out 1/2 the power with less distortion in 2 separate channels @ 2 ohms for each channel. This means that you can run the SWS's in stereo and receive the same amount of power to each sub. This is why the 2-ohm versions of the subs were made and are probably the more purchased version.

example:

300 watts x 1 channel @ 4-ohm load
150 watts x 2 channel @ 2-ohm load

Both of those situations will power the subs equally.
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      02-17-2011, 08:29 AM   #20
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OP, I have the same subs and amp. You definitely have something wrong.

Disconnect the stock sub and just listen to the one SWS, if sounds improves, then you likely wired them out of phase. Meaning that while one sub is extending forwards the other sub is retracting. This means that the subwoofers have an inverted output relative to each other and that the sound of one woofer basically dampens and/or cancels the other.

Beyond that it might be a speaker sensitivity issue. The stock subs might be more sensitive, meaning they play louder with less power (lower gain setting). Raising the gain in this situation would improve the sound on the SWS but cause the stock sub to clip/distort.
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      02-18-2011, 04:08 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scubasteve2365 View Post
An amplifier that puts out X watts @ 4-ohm mono will put out 1/2 the power with less distortion in 2 separate channels @ 2 ohms for each channel. This means that you can run the SWS's in stereo and receive the same amount of power to each sub. This is why the 2-ohm versions of the subs were made and are probably the more purchased version.

example:

300 watts x 1 channel @ 4-ohm load
150 watts x 2 channel @ 2-ohm load

Both of those situations will power the subs equally.
And as in my JL XD600/6

CH1 & 2 (200W total) -> Front
CH3 & 4 (200W total) -> Rear
Ch5 & 6 (200W total) -> Subs

All channels are 100W @ 2ohm & 75W @ 4ohm
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      02-18-2011, 01:26 PM   #22
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Wow... I learned a lot from reading this thread

The opposite-polarity problem is a common issue. The other is not having the woofers completely screwed down.

Your comparison is poor. The OEM woofer has greater efficiency than the SWS, so running one on one side and one on the other is going to make one much quieter than the other, since you have a common L ad R input sensitivity control.

Connect them both and test.
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