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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > How I break in all my cars...



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      03-09-2007, 08:45 AM   #1
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How I break in all my cars...

This system seems to work for me.

1. Baby drive the car for 700 miles. Don't stomp the brakes so the rotors can settle.

2. Change the oil to get all those filings out. (Synthetic of course)

3. Push engine to redline every chance you get for the next 300 miles (not on highway as this stresses the engine more)

4. after 1000 miles do whatever you want

Just my $0.02
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      03-09-2007, 09:47 AM   #2
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it has been debated on every board to death, but people still need the info & should be posted in the appropriate thread not made into a new one...unless you have a specific question that hasn't already been answered...
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      03-09-2007, 10:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razormy View Post
You don't like my thread because you're constantly on these forums and have watched this topic being posted over and over and over. I can understand that.

First, I offered my .02 cents because I noticed that newbies were posting and probably would like other peoples opinion on the matter. I figured, let me chime it.

Second, you don't decide what people can and can't post on forums.

I see many messages that are beaten over the head but I would never respond like you did. It was uncalled for and very much like your trying to be a bully.

Again, if you don't like a thread...move on. It's not worth the response and not worth me typing this.

No disrespect but forums are for people to get together and share info. Responses like yours makes people reluctant on posting a question or simply their thoughts.

its the MOST discussed topic

http://www.e90post.com/forums/search...archid=1192051

it was called for
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      03-09-2007, 10:40 AM   #4
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wait a second. i thought it was really bad to do this? i broke in my 335 by keeping my MPH under 50 for the first 16,000 miles. also can i put angel eyes in my blacklines?
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      03-09-2007, 11:09 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razormy View Post
This system seems to work for me.

1. Baby drive the car for 700 miles. Don't stomp the brakes so the rotors can settle.

2. Change the oil to get all those filings out. (Synthetic of course)

3. Push engine to redline every chance you get for the next 300 miles (not on highway as this stresses the engine more)

4. after 1000 miles do whatever you want

Just my $0.02
Don't forget that their are other parts to break in other than the engine, such as the transmission and differential. IMHO, It's probably a good idea to take it easy on the drivetrain for the recommended 1200 miles.
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      03-09-2007, 12:25 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by awesome View Post
...by keeping my MPH under 50 for the first 16,000 miles.

Then you do another 16,000 miles at 65 in second gear etc.?

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      03-09-2007, 12:50 PM   #7
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I say keep it out of redline for a 1,000 miles and then get an oil change and then do whatever you want. I didnt launch the car or redline until 1,000 but i still drove pretty hard. I agree with that statement, "dont break in a lazy motor". You dont want to launch a brand new car cause you want the drivetrain to break in like the clutch, tranny, and differential.
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      03-09-2007, 01:04 PM   #8
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I break in with those door jimmies. Or I steal rolling codes. You all make things so difficult.
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      03-09-2007, 01:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HyperM3 View Post
I break in with those door jimmies. Or I steal rolling codes. You all make things so difficult.
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      03-09-2007, 02:33 PM   #10
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There is no break in, What does everyone think the break is does anyway? URBAN MYTH nothing more.
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      03-09-2007, 03:00 PM   #11
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all i know is it is WAY to easy to ping off the revlimiter in first gear if you dont pay heavy attention to avoiding it... WTB 3.xx first gear gearing

/cry
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      03-09-2007, 03:49 PM   #12
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balls to the walls!~
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      03-09-2007, 05:59 PM   #13
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I'd like to hear more about the rotors settling.
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      03-09-2007, 10:45 PM   #14
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Until some company does an independant test of several dozen of the same cars (and repeating this several times with numerous other sets of the same cars) using a hard, moderate, and by the owner's manual method of break in procedure and then dyno testing the cars there is NO WAY to know FOR SURE which is the best break in method.

Therefore, in the meantime, it's best to just assume the mechanical engineers and testing engineers from EACH company actually knows what they are talking about when they suggest a break in period for their respective cars.
These manufacturers don't hire high school drop outs or current girl scouts to write up their break in procedures in their owners manuals. And I'm sure they don't just make up random mileage numbers for the break ins.

I think it's safe to say they did SOME testing of their engines BEFORE installing them in their cars and writing the owners manuals.

So for longevity and the best well being of your engine and drivetrain...when in doubt just follow the owners manual...you can't really lose by doing so.
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      03-09-2007, 10:51 PM   #15
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When was the last time you took a test drive on a new car and the salesperson said "keep it easy, she hasnt been broken in yet"?

Hardly ever, and you know that if they had, you would have gone to another dealership. Now multiply that test drive by 20+. I highly doubt that car was broken in "as specified". It was broken in as if every one of us was driving the car on a daily basis and it was already broken in.

Funny how you all are worried about this 1200 mile break in period but nobody thought anything a few years ago when manufacturers went from mandatory 3k mile oil changes to guestimating you needing one between 15-20k miles. Obvoiusly these engines can handle WAY more than you are worried about giving it.
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      03-10-2007, 12:06 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Driver72 View Post
Until some company does an independant test of several dozen of the same cars (and repeating this several times with numerous other sets of the same cars) using a hard, moderate, and by the owner's manual method of break in procedure and then dyno testing the cars there is NO WAY to know FOR SURE which is the best break in method.

Therefore, in the meantime, it's best to just assume the mechanical engineers and testing engineers from EACH company actually knows what they are talking about when they suggest a break in period for their respective cars.
These manufacturers don't hire high school drop outs or current girl scouts to write up their break in procedures in their owners manuals. And I'm sure they don't just make up random mileage numbers for the break ins.

I think it's safe to say they did SOME testing of their engines BEFORE installing them in their cars and writing the owners manuals.

So for longevity and the best well being of your engine and drivetrain...when in doubt just follow the owners manual...you can't really lose by doing so.
i think if anything its something that has carried over from long ago, that may have been correct at that time, but not so much now

im not saying either way, but im 100% sure that engines are built a lot different now than 20 years ago when the same "break in" was suggested



like dumb shit like it takes more gas to shut off and start your car then idle it for a few minutes, might have been true long ago, but it deffinatly isnt anymore
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      03-10-2007, 10:58 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teknochild View Post
i think if anything its something that has carried over from long ago, that may have been correct at that time, but not so much now

im not saying either way, but im 100% sure that engines are built a lot different now than 20 years ago when the same "break in" was suggested



like dumb shit like it takes more gas to shut off and start your car then idle it for a few minutes, might have been true long ago, but it deffinatly isnt anymore
I think thats accurate, BMW does not list any break in on the last 2 cars I purchased and I can't remember the last car I purchased that had one. There seem to be several of these old school legends still hanging on. Some of my favs are

1) Breaking in the car
2) Bedding brake pads
3) Frequent oil changes with synthetic
4) Changing the oil after a couple thousand miles on a new car
5) Doing major engine management remaps will not void your warranty (I watch this one burn people regularly, I assure you without question if you lunch your engine with new software you own it).
6) Warming up your car
7) My Personal Fav, Changing the trans fluid in your Automatic.

Go on any BMW forum and people will swear by these practices without any data to support it. I have serviced BMWs for 15 years and there is just as much evidence that indicates doing this stuff is worse for your car than not doing it.

Save your money and follow what the manufacturer recommends and you will be fine.
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      03-10-2007, 11:12 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cleaner View Post
I think thats accurate, BMW does not list any break in on the last 2 cars I purchased and I can't remember the last car I purchased that had one. There seem to be several of these old school legends still hanging on. Some of my favs are

1) Breaking in the car
2) Bedding brake pads
3) Frequent oil changes with synthetic
4) Changing the oil after a couple thousand miles on a new car
5) Doing major engine management remaps will not void your warranty (I watch this one burn people regularly, I assure you without question if you lunch your engine with new software you own it).
6) Warming up your car
7) My Personal Fav, Changing the trans fluid in your Automatic.

Go on any BMW forum and people will swear by these practices without any data to support it. I have serviced BMWs for 15 years and there is just as much evidence that indicates doing this stuff is worse for your car than not doing it.

Save your money and follow what the manufacturer recommends and you will be fine.
Personally, I don't see how that's true.

If you don't allow warmup on an engine that has been sitting in 10 degree weather, start up and get on it, all the metals have not yet expanded to their operating range.

Oil, has not yet reached it's viscosity to lubricate properly.

I personally change my oil on every new car at 700 miles. After I drain and let sit, I press my finger to the bottom of the oil and pickup metal filings.

etc., etc.
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      03-10-2007, 11:18 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razormy View Post
Personally, I don't see how that's true.

If you don't allow warmup on an engine that has been sitting in 10 degree weather, start up and get on it, all the metals have not yet expanded to their operating range.

Oil, has not yet reached it's viscosity to lubricate properly.

I personally change my oil on every new car at 700 miles. After I drain and let sit, I press my finger to the bottom of the oil and pickup metal filings.

etc., etc.
I don't think that anyone recommends that you start your engine in cold weather then get on it (or rev it much). I think the point is that your car warms more quickly under load. So, driving your car gently will warm it up more quickly. This will reduce wear over letting it idle in your driveway for 15 minutes (like while you are in the house). It will also likely save gas.
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      03-10-2007, 11:40 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cleaner View Post
3) Frequent oil changes with synthetic
4) Changing the oil after a couple thousand miles on a new car

6) Warming up your car
sorry but i have to disagree with you on these three for sure, owners have snet there oil in for lab testing and shown it to be in a bad state before the 10k+ range bmw recommends

and warming up your car is most surly needed, im not talking about sitting there parked, but you shouldnt go WOT and redline your car when the oil isnt even fluid enough
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      03-10-2007, 12:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrM View Post
I don't think that anyone recommends that you start your engine in cold weather then get on it (or rev it much). I think the point is that your car warms more quickly under load. So, driving your car gently will warm it up more quickly. This will reduce wear over letting it idle in your driveway for 15 minutes (like while you are in the house). It will also likely save gas.
Yes, I agree.
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      03-10-2007, 01:10 PM   #22
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We can disagree, most people will disagree with me. Statistically Synthetic oil shows the least amount of wear material deposits during mid life 5-12k. Thats not to say it is not good when fresh, it means there is more wear material found as a percentage during the first and last 5k in use. The wear maternal drops in percentage during mid life. read what you like into that.
As for warm up the oil pump pumps less volume at idle, in fact it can barely get oil to the top end on the engine, especially when cold. Letting a car idle when cold produced more wear on the top end than if you simply drive normally.
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