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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > Regional Forums > UK > UK Technical Forum > M47- Glow plug removal



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      01-06-2016, 06:03 AM   #1
chrissyw
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M47- Glow plug removal

I'm going to have a go at changing my glow plugs this weekend. Do I need any special sockets to remove / access them?

Also what do I torque them up to?

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      01-06-2016, 07:56 AM   #2
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You will need a long 10mm socket. Set the torque wrench to 35Nm for removing the plugs. If they don't come out at the latest of 35Nm do not apply more force or they will break. A hot engine makes it a lot easier to unscrew the plugs. On the first trial I had set the torque to 25Nm and mine came out even long before the 'click'

Tightening torque is printed on the box the plugs come in. It's about 15-17Nm depending on the brand. I did mine 14Nm because I greased the threads thoroughly with ceramic brake paste (which I had lying around and should be pretty much the same as glow plug grease)

While you're at the plugs change the relay also.
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      01-06-2016, 11:06 AM   #3
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If you're doing glowplugs you may as well do swirl flaps too.
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      01-07-2016, 11:08 AM   #4
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as above, make sure the engine is proper warm before starting, take it for a good 20min blast to get everything toasty.

i did mine when they were proper hot, on first attempt they didnt budge (torque wrench set to 30nm), sprayed some WD40 down the edges at the thread and they popped right out.

also as stated, do the controller at the same time, i didnt and still have glowplug issues, so i think mine is dead
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      01-08-2016, 09:09 AM   #5
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need to do mine but keep putting it off. let me know how you get on might spark my enthusiasm to get it done.

otherwise ill be going to my local indy for him to have the headache.
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      01-08-2016, 01:17 PM   #6
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Plusgas is great as a penetrating fluid for plug removal. Did both sets of plugs on my 330d's and they came out no problem.
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      01-11-2016, 06:00 AM   #7
borinous
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IIRC you should also disconnect the battery before doing this?
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      01-11-2016, 07:26 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borinous
IIRC you should also disconnect the battery before doing this?
Yes. BMW Workshop Manual states you should remove battery negative lead.
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      01-11-2016, 08:50 AM   #9
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Pretty sure we didnt bother with that.
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      01-11-2016, 09:10 AM   #10
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ive never normally disconnected a battery when working on a car. unless im replacing the battery.

But my BMW is the newest car ive worked on so thought it might have some repercussions if i didnt?
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      01-11-2016, 09:13 AM   #11
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doubt it, its just the usual "safety" stuff, incase you drop a spanner on the starter terminals or something.
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      01-11-2016, 09:19 AM   #12
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yeah more than likely.
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      01-12-2016, 07:52 AM   #13
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Where is the controller located? Under the car?
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      01-12-2016, 09:45 AM   #14
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ow+plug+module

Its right hand side if you are standing in front of the car looking into the engine bay. its quite a way down and mega fiddly if you it from above. would have been much easier going from underneath.
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      01-22-2016, 07:18 AM   #15
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Done mine yesterday. Went pretty well started 9:45 and was finished and buttoned up by 12:15 so happy with that. although seems the module i replaced a year ago has failed as i still had some start up shuddering and white smoke this morning......sigh!!
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      01-25-2016, 05:45 AM   #16
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Well I tried to change the module yesterday and the 8mm bolts under the car are chewed up and rusted to buggery! So I need an 8mil extractor socket to get the under tray off!

I can see the controller and it's covered in oil by the looks of it, which obviously isn't good.
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      01-25-2016, 10:48 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrissyw View Post
Well I tried to change the module yesterday and the 8mm bolts under the car are chewed up and rusted to buggery! So I need an 8mil extractor socket to get the under tray off!

I can see the controller and it's covered in oil by the looks of it, which obviously isn't good.
I managed to change the module from the top. but it was a pain and was fiddly.
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      01-25-2016, 11:09 AM   #18
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i bought a pile of new screws and new R-Clips and replaced them all when i last had my undertray off. For some reason BMW used nasty non-zinc coated ones under there. Penny pinching!
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      01-25-2016, 11:16 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aragorn30d View Post
i bought a pile of new screws and new R-Clips and replaced them all when i last had my undertray off. For some reason BMW used nasty non-zinc coated ones under there. Penny pinching!
Tell me about it! Shocking really, some of them look melted!

Was it really necessary to use loads of them too?

I can see it from the top but there is no way I can get my hand anywhere near it
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      01-25-2016, 11:55 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrissyw View Post
Tell me about it! Shocking really, some of them look melted!

Was it really necessary to use loads of them too?

I can see it from the top but there is no way I can get my hand anywhere near it
yeah its tight
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      01-25-2016, 12:12 PM   #21
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Just a thought, as i find it hard to believe the new module i fitted early last year has failed already. would it need some sort of activation? like if you fitted a new MAF thats a newer version?
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      01-26-2016, 08:47 AM   #22
kiel_dafo_kenyg_as
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No activation required. Not uncommon the new relay has failed again, especially when oil is running down on it from leaking swirl flaps. Are you sure the connectors are still plugged (snapped in)?
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