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      06-19-2012, 03:35 PM   #1
ChuckD05
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I am throwing 2CF6 and when I reset the throttle / codes it gets better but always comes back. Brought to BMW they cleared and say its not duplicating which I told them it wouldn't right away if it was cleared.

When it happens the code is always the same 2CF6 which has to do with the "throttle potentiometer 1 In regards to air mass."

Anyone have any idea which part # this would refer to. I'm just going
To fix it myself but having a hard time finding the part #. Can only find the entire throttle body on getbmwpxxxs.

The idle will surge badly until warmed up than surge mildly. Once codes are reset with throttle it goes back to normal for any amount of time it feels like Than comes back. I've had it. And don't want to wait any longer.

Thank you very much for any help you can provide me !
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      06-19-2012, 04:08 PM   #2
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Any intake leaks? Boost or vacuum leak after the throttle sounds like the culprit.

The throttle position sensors (not traditional variable resistance but non-contact position sensors) are inside the EGAS (electronic throttle), not serviceable or replaceable. I'd avoid replacing it unless you can't find anything else wrong.

Also any chance the JB4 needs to be blown away and reloaded with firmware and software? Or maybe a bad connection as worked itself a little loose?
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      06-19-2012, 04:35 PM   #3
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Some weird stuff. I'd drive around on map 0 to see if it comes back on, disable the auto code clearing so that it saves itself and take it back to dealer.
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      06-19-2012, 08:27 PM   #4
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Thanks for the tips.

Car was on map zero for a while and it happened. Firmware has been switched and g4 and g5 boards were used. It started months ago when randomly it would surge on start up and I'd have to do the idle control reset. (Aux on for 10 secs than off , on , etc. it would work). This time it wouldn't but BMW cleared codes and reset throttle and it went away. But I'm sure it'll do it again.

What I was looking for was that I need the whole throttle body ($400 tischer) I'll see what BMW does Abd wait for it to pop it's head again maybe try BMW one more time than I'll do it myself. Thanks.

Code clearings been off. Myst did u see my text of my crazy list of codes ?!?
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      06-19-2012, 09:25 PM   #5
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Plugs , valve cleaning , need more info
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      06-19-2012, 10:26 PM   #6
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I would think you should have a throttle potentiometer mismatch code and go instantly to limp mode if you had a bad EGAS. Sure there are no leaks or bad MAP sensor pre or post throttle? The code verbiage states some calculated air mass is exceeded/not achieved when compared to throttle angle.
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      06-19-2012, 10:57 PM   #7
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I'd double-check the MAP sensor connection and clean it off as well.
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      06-21-2012, 07:17 PM   #8
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I'm having the same issue, first threw 2CF7, now 2CF6.


Please let me know what you find out, I'm hoping I don't need to buy a new throttle body.
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      07-21-2012, 01:34 PM   #9
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I had the same issue and the problem went away after I reset the codes. Now its back after 3 weeks :/ anyone have any luck fixing it for good?
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      08-24-2012, 02:18 AM   #10
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I've similar issue, usually when I've JB4 installed. I set it to Map0, reset code, went on a test run, didn't even push the car, and limp mode. I just took the JB4 out and about to go on a test run. see if it comes back.

Anyone got a fix for this? much appreciated.
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      12-07-2012, 11:38 PM   #11
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BUMP, just started having the same issue
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      12-08-2012, 01:04 PM   #12
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I have had this problem on a car before, the car would die in the middle of the road, id also have lean faults and a million air mass correlation faults. It would usually happen when it was cold and i had all the accessories on (seat heating, headlights ect) we replaced the throttle, map sensor, and tmap sensor. We found one thing in common with the faults, voltage. Check your alternator. As we were monitoring the vehicles voltage to see if the alternator was actually dipping like the faults claimed, it completely locked up.

I have also seen failed alternators take out tuners...
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      05-12-2013, 11:29 AM   #13
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Im having this problem right now, has anyone find a solutuion?

Thx.
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      05-12-2013, 04:33 PM   #14
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I had the same error that came and went, when I cleared adaptations it would be fine for days sometimes months, but always came back, more and more frequently.

In my case it was the throttle body, which is around $300 from the dealer and a SUPER EASY DIY. Like 45mins if you take your sweet ass time. It's literally 4 bolts at the top of the engine, the bolts on the back side are a bit tricky, because you can't see them.

I have yet to have the error return in 3 months and ~3k miles
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      05-12-2013, 09:21 PM   #15
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Looks like my problem is more
Complicated since I have replace the throttle with one that was working on a 135 but I still have the code. I dont know if it could be the main ECU that need to be replaced.
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      08-28-2013, 05:53 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joec500
I had the same error that came and went, when I cleared adaptations it would be fine for days sometimes months, but always came back, more and more frequently.

In my case it was the throttle body, which is around $300 from the dealer and a SUPER EASY DIY. Like 45mins if you take your sweet ass time. It's literally 4 bolts at the top of the engine, the bolts on the back side are a bit tricky, because you can't see them.

I have yet to have the error return in 3 months and ~3k miles
Did you disconnect the sensor connector and plugging it back in before replacing it? I'm having the same problem today.

Car will start but the idle is surging from 400 to 1300rpm back and forth rapidly, throwing the 2CF6 and 2CF7 code. Even after resetting everything and all adaptations and ecu, the problem is just as bad, never gets any better.

Did you guys let your cars warm up when it was behaving this way? Do you think it's safe to do so? Should I just bite the bullet and not drive the car until I order the throttle body and replace it? Any input greatly appreciated as I cannot drive my car right now.
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      08-28-2013, 07:11 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmacc View Post
Did you disconnect the sensor connector and plugging it back in before replacing it? I'm having the same problem today.

Car will start but the idle is surging from 400 to 1300rpm back and forth rapidly, throwing the 2CF6 and 2CF7 code. Even after resetting everything and all adaptations and ecu, the problem is just as bad, never gets any better.

Did you guys let your cars warm up when it was behaving this way? Do you think it's safe to do so? Should I just bite the bullet and not drive the car until I order the throttle body and replace it? Any input greatly appreciated as I cannot drive my car right now.
No I never unplugged it then replugged it. In my case it started occurring more regularly, so I just bit the bullet and bought a new one.

P.S. BMW in San Mateo got within $20 of Tischer's price. You just need to mention Tischer's price and with shipping it's about the same price, except you get the part the same day.

you are more than welcome to take my old one. It still kinda works if you need something temporarily, but I am up in SF, so you should probably just install a new one.
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      08-28-2013, 11:50 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joec500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmacc View Post
Did you disconnect the sensor connector and plugging it back in before replacing it? I'm having the same problem today.

Car will start but the idle is surging from 400 to 1300rpm back and forth rapidly, throwing the 2CF6 and 2CF7 code. Even after resetting everything and all adaptations and ecu, the problem is just as bad, never gets any better.

Did you guys let your cars warm up when it was behaving this way? Do you think it's safe to do so? Should I just bite the bullet and not drive the car until I order the throttle body and replace it? Any input greatly appreciated as I cannot drive my car right now.
No I never unplugged it then replugged it. In my case it started occurring more regularly, so I just bit the bullet and bought a new one.

P.S. BMW in San Mateo got within $20 of Tischer's price. You just need to mention Tischer's price and with shipping it's about the same price, except you get the part the same day.

you are more than welcome to take my old one. It still kinda works if you need something temporarily, but I am up in SF, so you should probably just install a new one.
Thanks, I ended up having my buddy unplug it again and this time did a full code reset and dme reset after trying to run the car with it disconnected and plugged it back in, and started up just fine no problems. This is probably my first sign of a faulty sensor approaching, but time will tell I guess.
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      08-29-2013, 12:19 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Thanks, I ended up having my buddy unplug it again and this time did a full code reset and dme reset after trying to run the car with it disconnected and plugged it back in, and started up just fine no problems. This is probably my first sign of a faulty sensor approaching, but time will tell I guess.
Mine took about 2 years to fully fail. It would occur intermittently maybe once every 2 months, then every month then eventually every couple of days. I swapped it out at that point. Then again, the part is not super expensive and labor is a no brainer.
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      08-29-2013, 07:46 AM   #20
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I had same issue.you need to direct connect the throttle wire from plug & play.forgot which wire.do a search.I had same annoying issue & tries it all.doing this. Fixed it.try it.its free
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