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      06-07-2011, 04:09 PM   #1
taibanl
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Taibanl's 2011 e90 335d Stage 2? Base Audio Upgrade!!

I would like to thank the forum for their help in this process. I knew exactly ZERO about BMW's before this project, and very little about Car audio. EVERYTHING I LEARNED, I LEARNED FROM THIS FORUM. Special thanks to: VP Electricity, Technic, JT Sherri, Kaigoss, montr, and Andy Wehymeher from JBL I have never done any car audio installation, and I pulled this off without breaking a thing!

UPDATED:



I'm not sure how to follow B33m3r's excellent DIY-ish thread but here's to trying.

I spent a long time shopping for my 335d and initially was going to opt for the HK $875 option but was quite underwhelmed when I listened to it. Thus my plan was to accept the base stereo and gut it (including replacing the OEM HU)

While my car was on order, i found e90post and began dreaming of upgrade options. I repeatedly harassed VP Electricity about the possibility of replacing the OEM HU which he eventually talked me out of. After countless emails back and forth to him, I decided on:

OEM HU
JBL MS-8
JL Audio XD600/6
Alpine MRD-M300 (which is a bit large but I reused it from a previous installation)

Rainbow SLC 210.25 (Front Door 4" and Tweeters in OEM sails)
Rainbow SL 100 Installer (Coaxial for Center)
Kicker SSMB8 (Underseat Midbass)
Image Dynamics ID10 v3 D4 (in MusicarNW / VP Electricity Corner Trunk Enclosure)
retained OEM Rear Deck 4"

The Goods!

This was my late christmas present from MusicarNW (April 2010)

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...and unboxed

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JBL MS-8

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JL XD 600/6 and Alpine MRD-M300 (inherited free)

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Rainbow SLC 210.25 NG kit, Unboxed

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Kicker SSMB8

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MusicarNW Stealth Sub enclosure with Image Dynamics ID10 v3 D4.

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New OEM Tweeter Sails

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Center Speaker (Rainbow SL 100 NG Coaxial)
Center Speaker Trim
The legendary..incredibly robust, and great value Technic Harness

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Door Speaker + Tweeter Install



Door panels removed, OEM speakers removed.

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Rainbow SLC 100 NG Midrange beside OEM Base Midrange

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Door with panel and old tweeter sail removed.

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New tweeters clipped into NEW OEM Tweeter Sails

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OEM Midrange Wiring Harness Connection reused for tweeter
(Not pictured: Mated with OEM pin connectors/casing on aftermarket tweeters)

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Door boot unbolted to prep for addition of dedicated midrange wiring

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New Midrange Door Speaker Wiring (16ga) routed through OEM Boot

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Threading through the boot, into the door.

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Gently used fingertips to peel back the weatherproofing

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and out through a tiny slit in the weatherproofing

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Finally, into the body side...(then later run down under the door sills to the crossovers in the trunk). Note, there is a rubbery foam grommet that you will have to work around or through to get into the cabin. Its accessible by feel from the footwell side.

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Final Pic of OEM Door Boot plus New 16ga Speaker wire, before reattachment to chassis

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DOH! Why I heard SEVERE popping when I first powered up...Door Panel bolted right through my wire! - (Also shows Rainbow Midrange installed)

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New Jumper for the Underseat location - Previous (OEM) use: Full range signal to underseat OEM Midbass, then High Passed signal gets routed to doors. Now used only for the tweeter signal.

Jumper 50% complete: you can see the OEM pins on the end of the wire

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Complete Jumper

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Installed Jumper - signal now passes from vehicle harness past the underseat location to the previous midrange wiring in the doors, now used for tweeters only.

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Underseat Midbass

Kicker SSMB8

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Underseat enclosures prepped for speaker+spacer.

I used a flexible thin cord of faucet stem repair to make a semi-firm gasket that I inlaid into silicone. I allowed the silicone to mostly dry before installing the speaker. The end result is that this cord serves as a gasket sandwiched between the spacer and the silicone, while the silicone provides a foundation.

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JTSherri Spacer test fit into OEM Enclosure...IMPORTANT: Base audio systems require a 3/4" thick spacer, others require only 1/2" - SSMB8 require NOT A HAIR BIGGER (i.e. no larger opening) than 7.25in. Maybe even try 7.125"

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SSMB8 bolted onto JTSherri Spacer

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SSMB8 mated to JTSherri Spacer (side)

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SSMB8 bolted into OEM enclosure.

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Trunk Wiring

Wiring STIFF ass 6ga/3conductor wiring from the battery bay up into the cavities above the trunk and back down. Probably would choose different wiring next time! PITA!!!

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Wiring for Underseat Midbass (copper) and Musicar Enclosure (white) over the top of the trunk

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A Metric S#!* ton of wiring converging on the "Rats nest" OEM Amp location

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DIY Amp rack build in OEM amp location

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The Amp Stack in progress; used metal framing work from Home Depot...planned for replacement

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6ga/3 wire terminated with OEM connectors for battery fused distribution block

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6ga/3 wire terminated with OEM connections, ready to snap-in to battery distribution block

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Starting to get a bit cleaner:
Under the trunk trim: Rainbow Crossovers from SLC 210.25 kit

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BMW Station for Apple iPhone (Teaser pic, separate thread located here)
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The MS-8 is powering the OEM rear deck and the center channel (~18 watts @ 4 ohms (center) / ~30 watts @ 2 ohms (rear deck).

The XD600/6 is running a 4 channel configuration: 2 channels for the Rainbow separates (75 watts/channel), 4 channels bridged to 2 for the underseat SSMB8's (200 watts/channel). I will add, I think the 600/6 is perfect for doing this to give a little more power to the underseats and it balances quite well.

Finally, the Alpine MRD-M300 (300 watts @ 2 ohms) is powering the ID10 d4 (Dual 4ohm voice coils, wired in parallel, for a 2 ohm load).

To top all of this off; since I had to buy the left CD changer trunk trim, I bought the Euro luggage compartment trim for both sides and added the forward attach points to my luggage compartment.



Base Stereo Recoded to HiFi


Last edited by taibanl; 02-11-2012 at 02:32 PM.
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      06-07-2011, 09:31 PM   #2
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What made you finally decide to keep the base HU? I'm in a car with the Logic 7, so it's quite an undertaking to replace the HU but I would like to do it. No nav, poor iPod integration are my 2 main reasons. But I don't know if it's worth the hassle.
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      06-07-2011, 10:08 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torifile View Post
What made you finally decide to keep the base HU? I'm in a car with the Logic 7, so it's quite an undertaking to replace the HU but I would like to do it. No nav, poor iPod integration are my 2 main reasons. But I don't know if it's worth the hassle.
Preserving oem appearance, hu is capable of decent sq output (at least yours is), didnt want to disrupt obc/worry about relocating hu

That being said. I am still considering a combox retrofit but this would require a new hu as my hu has no most bus
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      06-08-2011, 09:17 AM   #4
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Mind if I ask how much that setup ran you out of pocket for everything?
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      06-08-2011, 09:19 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceyBMW View Post
Mind if I ask how much that setup ran you out of pocket for everything?
The kit from MusicarNW cost me ~$2000, I probably have another $500 in random OEM parts, Home Depot Parts, wires, radio shack, etc. I am going to try and add up my receipts and add to the thread.
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      02-11-2012, 02:08 PM   #6
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Updated!!! What do y'all think?
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      02-11-2012, 02:45 PM   #7
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You did a real nice job on a complex install.

You really had to do a lot of work to get that installed.
That was really professional to run new wires to the doors and put
the crossovers in the trunk.
Is it working yet?
How does it all sound?
Just curious as what the Hi Fi recode from base stereo cost
and there were some who said it couldn't be done with some of the non most radio's
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      02-11-2012, 02:57 PM   #8
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Sure, its been working for a while, only in the last month did I take it from sounding great to sounding amazing...

The initial install though took about three weekends including my brother's help.

$104.50 for the recode...yes it worked on my Non-MOST, 2011.0 base head unit.

Only downside is now that I've just recoded I have to rewire the MS-8 and recalibrate...ugh.
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      02-11-2012, 03:04 PM   #9
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That moment when you had the short

Must have been real scary.
Why do you have to rewire ?
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      02-11-2012, 03:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctuna View Post
Must have been real scary.
Why do you have to rewire ?
If you look the other threads I bumped last night, It seems that I succeeded in my goal of getting not only FLAT outputs but also Low-Level.

Specifically, before in the BASE configuration the MS-8 (using Speaker level inputs) would get an OK-OK-OK signal detection of 45/50.

Not with the HiFi configuration, it goes up to 55 and I have to go to 55/55 to get OK-OK-OK.

So my guess is MAX (55) voltage in the HiFi configuration is approximately equal to the voltage at 45/50 in the Stereo configuration

Ken has posted before that the signal is sort of a hockey stick and most of the voltage gain comes in the last few clicks.

So I am thinking the outputs have indeed transitioned to Low-Level, but looking for someone to chime in with their opinion.

Thus, I would need to rewire the Technic Harness to add RCA ends and delete the harness input on the MS-8
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      02-11-2012, 07:41 PM   #11
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I hope you took that screw off the SSMB8 magnet before you installed... jk

Good job man. When are you upgrading to Hybrids???
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      02-11-2012, 08:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
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Good job man. When are you upgrading to Hybrids???
Thanks

I was close back in November when Scott was doing the open box L4SE but I was concerned about fitment, didn't want to pay $$$ for tweeters and didn't want to pay retail for a center, plus figure how to mount it.

So bottom line, I like things that Drop in.

I was leaning heavily toward upgrading to Rainbow Profis also but my most recent tune (prior to the recode) sounded so amazing, I think the MS-8 is finally making good speakers sound great. I still may drop into see B-737 on my way through Jersey someday to listen to his Profi's
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      02-11-2012, 08:27 PM   #13
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I'll let you know next time I'm in your area. I'd like you to listen to the L3SEs. I think they sound incredible. I'm going to try to fabricate some angled adapter rings, so that I can aim them a bit more towards the listening position. It should be possible, since the drivers are a bit smaller and shallower than a normal 4. The trick will be to make the adapter housing look OEM.

It is amazing how the MS-8 can bring the stage up perfectly from those locations. It would be a worthwhile experiment I think to try running coaxials with moveable tweeters. You could tilt the tweeters towards the listener and I'm not sure that you would be able to tell the difference between that and a normal component set. The advantage of course would be that the coaxials are inexpensive and L/R/C are timbre matched!
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      02-11-2012, 08:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post
I'll let you know next time I'm in your area. I'd like you to listen to the L3SEs. I think they sound incredible.
Definitely. BTW Im in montgomery AL for the next month, then northbound; I may be pressed for time on the trip but if not, I'll try and stop by.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kaigoss69 View Post

It is amazing how the MS-8 can bring the stage up perfectly from those locations. It would be a worthwhile experiment I think to try running coaxials with moveable tweeters. You could tilt the tweeters towards the listener and I'm not sure that you would be able to tell the difference between that and a normal component set.
I think the tweeter sails are fairly optimal as they are on-axis for the cross-side of the vehicle...which leads to a sort of normalizing of the volume despite the path length.

I do notice the image is "higher" on my left than on my right as i am more on axis with the Pax side midrange.
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      02-11-2012, 11:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post

Not with the HiFi configuration, it goes up to 55 and I have to go to 55/55 to get OK-OK-OK.
MS-8 Input Setup is not required with the HiFi outputs... just try that although it will be somehow attenuated thru the high level inputs.
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      02-12-2012, 12:06 AM   #16
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Tai,
You're always welcome, bring ur favorite music

You've done an amazing job w ur car!
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      02-14-2012, 10:01 PM   #17
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Added some new rear speakers.

The Infinity Kappa 42.9 are a 2.7 ohm speaker 94dB/2.83/1m
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Compared to my Rainbow SL 100, (90dB/1V/1M @ 4ohms which equals 93dB/2.83V/1M)

Results from testing...They are 1dB more efficient

Better yet...they are 4dB more efficient than the stock speakers

(Also, from previous testing the L7 were 3dB more efficient than the base speakers, so....

Base Stereo Speakers
(87dB/1W/1M @ 4ohm = 90dB/2.83V/1M)
L7 Speakers
(87dB 1W/1M @ 2 ohm = 93dB/2.83V/1M)
Rainbow SL 100 Coaxial
(90dB 1W/1M @ 4 ohm = 93dB/2.83V/1M)
Infinity Kappa 42.9i
(88dB/1W/1M @ 2 ohm = 94dB/2.83V/1M)
This is based on knowing the Rainbow & Kappa specs and testing against the OEM speakers.

I will note, the Rainbow had a FLATTER response on my rudimentary iPhone RTA...and also appears to be better build quality. However, I was merely going for SPL for my rears as I want to bring up the relative volume of the other (non power limited) channels on my MS-8

Pic with OEM connector attached

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      02-15-2012, 12:46 AM   #18
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Hey great job!!! Where did you get the oem connectors?
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      02-15-2012, 10:48 PM   #19
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I am going to make this a running OEM parts list:

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Tweeter Sails (SEDAN/e90 only)
Includes H/K Logo:
Cover, window frame, door front left HARMAN/KARDON 51337270891
Cover, window frame, door front right HARMAN/KARDON 51337270892
No Logo - cloth behind grille to hide tweeter?:
For vehicles with HiFi speaker system WITHOUT Cover for speaker
Cover, window frame, door front left 51337258575 $30.89
Cover, window frame, door front right 51337258576 $30.89
No Logo - NO cloth behind grille, tweeter visible?:
For vehicles with HiFi speaker system with Cover for speaker
Cover, window frame, door front left 51337171201 $35.98
Cover, window frame, door front right 51337171202 $35.98



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Female Plastic Connector (with male pins inside) - to make jumper for "Stereo"/Base systems
Plastic Connector 61136901731 4x Pins 61138364835



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Metal Contact Socket 61136920094 (for smaller wires, use last two digits 92.
Plastic bits:
Universal socket housing MAK8, uncoded 2 POL. 61136925166 (white in picture)
Universal socket housing MAK8, uncoded 1 POL. 61136925176 (green)








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2x 61130006664 (Pin Contacts including 18"wire) or Pins only 61131393723 (for attaching to your own wire)
1x 61138373583 (Universal Pin Terminal Uncoded 2 Pol)
Note: The pictures show the wire AFTER i already cut it to make the pigtail. The wire in the second pic is what remains (just to give you an idea of length). The first PN is the pins pre-crimped to the wire, the second is the pins by themselves, if you have your own wire you need to connect to.
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      02-15-2012, 11:20 PM   #20
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impressive, i wish i kept cars long enough to make all this time and money worth doing to one of mine, i bet it sounds fantastic
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      02-16-2012, 12:26 PM   #21
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It did sound fantastic...until i recoded!...just a temporary step backwards though...gotta rewire!
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      02-22-2012, 10:18 PM   #22
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i have a 2011 335d with the base audio but i dont have any tweeters in the pillar/mirror area. Can anyone tell me why? The loaner 328i they give me even has it.
Messiah62 is offline  
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