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      06-08-2011, 06:58 PM   #1
PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe
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Ghetto Fuel Door

So I have a 2007 e90 335.. I got the car used a few months back and the fuel door worked like a champ. I added some subs in the trunk and the fuel door latch no longer worked after a week or two with the subs installed. I got the Dealership to replace the latch mechanism under the maintenance agreement and all was well. Well, it's been 3-4 weeks since that was done and now the latch has broken again...

Every post I find seems to think the subs in the trunk is what is causing the latch to break (its the plunger looking device that depresses when you close your door after fueling up.) I tend to agree, but I wanted some input from others.

If you have subs in your trunk, have you had this issue? If not, what model/year do you own?

If you have had this problem before, do you have subs in your trunk or no? Either way, if how did you fix it and did the problem return?

My car was made late `06 and I would think that a BMW should be able to withstand a little bass (I'm not pushing much to begin with, just a little thump to fill that void that the L7 comes with...) and shouldn't have little pieces breaking because of it. I hope that BMW would have recognized this issue and possibly redesign the latching mechanism with something a little more sturdy than what I have. From what I understand, the spring on the inside is very weak and is the root of the cause. However, my spring (both times) still works fine, but it just doesn't latch in place when it is pressed in.

If I hold the door closed and use the FOB to lock the doors, it stays latched, so my last question is this: If there is no other fix available, is there any way to force the anti-theft lock (as best as I can describe it) to stay locked even when the doors are unlocked? Maybe have it unlock with two presses of the FOB unlock button or something? Of course, this could involve coding if at all possible.

So anyway, if anyone has ANYTHING to offer, please do so as I am at a loss and really don't want to replace this thing just to have it break within a month again. Also, I really don't want to lose my subs...

Thanks for reading!

TLDR - fuel door latching mechanism is broken, subs in trunk, any permanent fix??
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      06-09-2011, 02:38 AM   #2
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I have read about this issue as well and it seems like it happens often. But I have a 15 inch fi btl with a ittle more than 1200 watts in the trunk and no problems with the fuel door except alot of rattling.
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      06-09-2011, 08:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe View Post
So I have a 2007 e90 335.. I got the car used a few months back and the fuel door worked like a champ. I added some subs in the trunk and the fuel door latch no longer worked after a week or two with the subs installed. I got the Dealership to replace the latch mechanism under the maintenance agreement and all was well. Well, it's been 3-4 weeks since that was done and now the latch has broken again...

Every post I find seems to think the subs in the trunk is what is causing the latch to break (its the plunger looking device that depresses when you close your door after fueling up.) I tend to agree, but I wanted some input from others.

If you have subs in your trunk, have you had this issue? If not, what model/year do you own?

If you have had this problem before, do you have subs in your trunk or no? Either way, if how did you fix it and did the problem return?

My car was made late `06 and I would think that a BMW should be able to withstand a little bass (I'm not pushing much to begin with, just a little thump to fill that void that the L7 comes with...) and shouldn't have little pieces breaking because of it. I hope that BMW would have recognized this issue and possibly redesign the latching mechanism with something a little more sturdy than what I have. From what I understand, the spring on the inside is very weak and is the root of the cause. However, my spring (both times) still works fine, but it just doesn't latch in place when it is pressed in.

If I hold the door closed and use the FOB to lock the doors, it stays latched, so my last question is this: If there is no other fix available, is there any way to force the anti-theft lock (as best as I can describe it) to stay locked even when the doors are unlocked? Maybe have it unlock with two presses of the FOB unlock button or something? Of course, this could involve coding if at all possible.

So anyway, if anyone has ANYTHING to offer, please do so as I am at a loss and really don't want to replace this thing just to have it break within a month again. Also, I really don't want to lose my subs...

Thanks for reading!

TLDR - fuel door latching mechanism is broken, subs in trunk, any permanent fix??
The only permanent fix is to remove the ghetto subs or use duct tape.

If your subs are causing the problem (as I'm sure they are) then the whole system must vibrate badly and sound very bad.
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      06-09-2011, 09:32 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceb View Post
The only permanent fix is to remove the ghetto subs or use duct tape.

If your subs are causing the problem (as I'm sure they are) then the whole system must vibrate badly and sound very bad.
Attacking me by calling my equipment ghetto is very immature. The system sounds fine and in complete honesty, it's not very loud at all. I don't listen to rap or very high bass music most of the time. It's usually metal. The only vibration you hear is from the door after the mechanism starts to wear. When the dealer initially replaced it, it didn't rattle at all. Even the license plate doesn't rattle. lol, duct tape? talk about ghetto...

---

As to the previous poster with the 325 - man I don't get it, maybe the design with the 325 and 335 are diff, but I wouldn't think so? Where do you have your box placed and which way is it facing? Since I have two subs (just 10's) they can only really face backward or forward due to the size of the box. I have them facing the rear and placed in the center of the trunk, pushed up to the back of the seat. I was thinking about facing them forward, but the sound quality would suffer and I'm not really sure it would help consider how bass is omi-directional...

Thanks for your input though, bmw325i!
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      06-09-2011, 10:31 AM   #5
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I have them facing the rear. I had it facing the front for a while I noticed less rattling. Not sure why mine hasn't broke I've had this sub in since February.
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      06-09-2011, 10:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmw325i View Post
I have them facing the rear. I had it facing the front for a while I noticed less rattling. Not sure why mine hasn't broke I've had this sub in since February.
Well damn, hope it keeps going strong for ya
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      06-09-2011, 06:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe View Post
Attacking me by calling my equipment ghetto is very immature...
Uhh, you're the one who called the fuel door design ghetto.

The most common reason for fuel door failure is an aftermarket sub, so the fuel door design is fine.

Your subsequent mod broke it and the only solution is to remove your sub or tape the door shut.
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      06-09-2011, 07:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ceb View Post
Uhh, you're the one who called the fuel door design ghetto.

The most common reason for fuel door failure is an aftermarket sub, so the fuel door design is fine.

Your subsequent mod broke it and the only solution is to remove your sub or tape the door shut.
..or use double sided adhesive velcro inside the fuel door. I did that on my previous e36.
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      06-09-2011, 07:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartman619 View Post
..or use double sided adhesive velcro inside the fuel door. I did that on my previous e36.
Yep. The only non-ghetto way of fixing it is to remove the problem.
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      06-09-2011, 07:33 PM   #10
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i listen to rap does that mean i am ghetto??
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      06-09-2011, 09:05 PM   #11
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I've never had a broken fuel door. I have a 12" type-r powered by a JL 500/1. 05/06 build 330xi.
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      06-09-2011, 11:27 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaiNFuLSeDaTiVe View Post
Attacking me by calling my equipment ghetto is very immature. The system sounds fine and in complete honesty, it's not very loud at all. I don't listen to rap or very high bass music most of the time. It's usually metal. The only vibration you hear is from the door after the mechanism starts to wear. When the dealer initially replaced it, it didn't rattle at all. Even the license plate doesn't rattle. lol, duct tape? talk about ghetto...

---

As to the previous poster with the 325 - man I don't get it, maybe the design with the 325 and 335 are diff, but I wouldn't think so? Where do you have your box placed and which way is it facing? Since I have two subs (just 10's) they can only really face backward or forward due to the size of the box. I have them facing the rear and placed in the center of the trunk, pushed up to the back of the seat. I was thinking about facing them forward, but the sound quality would suffer and I'm not really sure it would help consider how bass is omi-directional...

Thanks for your input though, bmw325i!
you are the one that said ghetto.....it's in your title
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      06-10-2011, 08:03 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by express705 View Post
i listen to rap does that mean i am ghetto??
Only if your gas door is flappin'
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      06-10-2011, 08:04 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
I've never had a broken fuel door. I have a 12" type-r powered by a JL 500/1. 05/06 build 330xi.
Probably because you gave some thought to what you were installing.
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      06-10-2011, 09:59 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartman619 View Post
..or use double sided adhesive velcro inside the fuel door. I did that on my previous e36.
Yeah after removing the mechanism myself, it seems that you can just leave it off as the door hinge is spring loaded. It leaves a little gap that I'm sure some velcro would be able to fix. Since I already had a replacement mechanism, I went ahead and replaced it and will do the velcro thing once this one breaks

Quote:
Originally Posted by AWLE902008 View Post
you are the one that said ghetto.....it's in your title
The door is ghetto, not my subs...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ceb View Post
Probably because you gave some thought to what you were installing.
I guess you have nothing better to do than troll these forums to make douchebag comments?
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      06-10-2011, 04:05 PM   #16
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Can't you dynamat the trunk, especially around the filler neck area? That ought to minimize some of the vibrations...
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      01-09-2012, 07:55 PM   #17
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Maybe you should consider "cornering" a new sub setup.
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      01-10-2012, 10:36 PM   #18
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The title of this thread I was expecting to see a picture of a car with a ripped off gas filler nozzle sticking out of it. Or a gas cap made out of wine corks.
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      01-12-2012, 03:12 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by drsilvershot View Post
Maybe you should consider "cornering" a new sub setup.
I've definitely thought about that.. any clue on which corner would be best? Does no one else out there have this problem? Even when I have my music low, it still rattles. Nothing else on the car rattles either.
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      01-13-2012, 10:25 PM   #20
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i have subs in my trunk and the lock on the gas door never seems to be a hassle for me? what you might want to do though is try dynamatting around there a bit to control the vibration so it doesn't mess with the lock mechanism
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      01-16-2012, 06:53 PM   #21
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dude i have a 2008 335 sedan and 1000 wats is pushing my L7. when mine broke i turned it so it was blowing through ski hole, then with my new latch i took the rubber piece off the little mechanism, and now i have less raddle and it doesnt break, its a little hard to open without the rubber piece. u just have to push really hard on the cap!. Good Luck!
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      01-24-2012, 06:15 PM   #22
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Thanks for the input gentlemen I've threatened to dynamat it to see if that will help, just haven't had time. Also, I noticed a few weeks ago that my box is actually touching the bottom portion of my rear decklid, so it's possible that it is transferring more vibration...maybe? Either way, I've got a smaller band-pass box sitting around that I think I'll throw these into and see if they alleviate some of the rattling. I'll probably try turning the portholes towards the skihole as well. At this point, even if the bass doesn't sound as good (to an extent mind you) I'm willing to face them ANY direction to get rid of that rattle!

Regarding removing the rubber bumper, I would think that the rattle would get worse since the door would be resting on the plastic piece behind the rubber? I suppose that is not the case - does it just float there instead?

Thanks again!
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