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      11-01-2011, 11:33 AM   #89
SHATX
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Thank god someone linked this thread! Any luck on the DIY?

Very grateful for all this info.

Thank you,
Dynomyte
Work has been crazy with clients this past few months and trying to plan our wedding so I haven't had time to resize all the pics and narrate but i am happy to help anyone who needs it through email or phone as time allows.
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      11-01-2011, 11:44 AM   #90
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I am in the same exact boat haha. No worries I will attempt this on my own. If you have free time on your hands.

tonykanou@hotmail.com.

If not the information here should suffice.

Thank you,
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      11-01-2011, 12:12 PM   #91
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I am in the same exact boat haha. No worries I will attempt this on my own. If you have free time on your hands.

tonykanou@hotmail.com.

If not the information here should suffice.

Thank you,
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*disclaimer - I take no responsibility should you damage your car with any steps I mention below. You do this at your own risk.*

The steps are pretty easy.

1.disconnect battery

2.remove passenger cup holders and trim

3.remove glove box (you must remove the cup holders in order to get the glove box completely out)

4.remove kick panel and trim between the seat and door sill

5. remove JBE module (black box below fuse box) & remove fuse box(this is the tedious part with hard to get to small torx screws for the fuse box.)

6. swap all fuses from old fuse box to new fuse box. (tip - take a pic of your old fuse box as a reference for correct placement when moving fuses to new fuse box. Also it helps to lay the fuse boxes side by side and do one fuse at a time)

7. *now you can either run a completely new power to the battery as the service bulletin states to do (very time consuming and lots more work) or you can do what i did) i cut the end off the new cable at about 18inches in length. Then i cut the end of the old cable still in the car at about 16 inches back from the fuse box. (stripped both ends at about 2 inches to give plenty of wire space to twist the ends together in end to end.) I soldered the two too pieces together (a lot of soldering and get a very hot soldering iron to avoid a cold solder that could cause amperage draw issue and cause a fire- i did this because i have a lot of experience soldering electric projects in vehicles) .

8. *heat shrink the connection and then use almost a whole roll of 3M super+(buy the best electrical tape you can don't go cheap in this) electrical tape. you cannot use too much to insure no wire burs and heat or shorts)

9. plug everything back but DON'T re-assemble your car yet as you are just checking for power and making sure everything works first.

10. patience and test it a few times..

11. once you have confirmation that you have been successful you can start the re-assemble process.

12. and you are done.


mine took me about 2 hrs to complete. and everything has been great since.

hope this helps at at least can give you an idea. i can send some pics via email but the folder is very large.
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      11-01-2011, 12:25 PM   #92
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This shows you where my solder joint was(its highlighted). this pic was taken during the testing step to ensure everything was working properly before i re-assembled the car.
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      11-01-2011, 12:27 PM   #93
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sorry its so big - as i said i haven't had time to re-size all the photos
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      11-01-2011, 02:31 PM   #94
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Thanks alot SHATX. I will attempt this next week. I will post when I am done.
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      11-19-2011, 03:02 AM   #95
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Well just attempted to do this. I replaced all the wire though. Car starts up finally but now my navi and radio is dead...

Any suggestions?

Took me about 5 hours to do the job. If it werent for my Navi/radio fail, I would say this a fairly simple DIY job.
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      11-19-2011, 02:26 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynomyte View Post
Well just attempted to do this. I replaced all the wire though. Car starts up finally but now my navi and radio is dead...

Any suggestions?

Took me about 5 hours to do the job. If it werent for my Navi/radio fail, I would say this a fairly simple DIY job.
Did you check the fuses?
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      11-19-2011, 02:45 PM   #97
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Yes I checked the fuses in the glove box. Is there any other fuses I must check?

BT tool is giving me a "no response" from the CID...
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      11-23-2011, 01:31 AM   #98
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Anyone...
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      11-23-2011, 08:15 AM   #99
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Anyone...
If the fuses are good than you need to check all the plug connections on the back of the fuse box. I also would prob remove the JBE (black box at bottom of fuse box)module and reinstall it to make sure all the connecting pins are seated correctly.
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      11-24-2011, 09:18 AM   #100
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All the plug connections where checked. How exactly am I suppose to check them besides making sure they are properly pushed in.

JBE was installed and uninstalled many times.

I will try the old fuse box. Maybe this one was defective.

Crossing my fingers.
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      11-24-2011, 08:56 PM   #101
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I have this issue as well and parts are on their way!!!

SHATX...I have some experience soldering as well. DO you prefer somewhere online to refresh my memory or give any pointers when soldering such a large gauge wire.

I'd also like to see how you twisted the "0 gauge" wires together.

You can email me a pic tstilovich@austin.rr.com

THANKS!
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      12-02-2011, 09:15 AM   #102
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All the plug connections where checked. How exactly am I suppose to check them besides making sure they are properly pushed in.

JBE was installed and uninstalled many times.

I will try the old fuse box. Maybe this one was defective.

Crossing my fingers.
were you able to figure this out? also when you changed over the fuse in the box did you swap out the the little black fuses?
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      12-02-2011, 09:16 AM   #103
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I have this issue as well and parts are on their way!!!

SHATX...I have some experience soldering as well. DO you prefer somewhere online to refresh my memory or give any pointers when soldering such a large gauge wire.

I'd also like to see how you twisted the "0 gauge" wires together.

You can email me a pic tstilovich@austin.rr.com

THANKS!
If you want to head down to austin - i can help you.
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      12-02-2011, 09:22 AM   #104
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were you able to figure this out? also when you changed over the fuse in the box did you swap out the the little black fuses?
here is pic that shows the 2 black ones i am referring to.
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      12-02-2011, 09:47 AM   #105
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I have I-drive as well so this should be close to your same fuse locations-

Here is a side by side pic of the old and the new fuse box. I took this pic before i swapped the fuses so i could reference it later for exact location in case I forgot where to put a fuse during the swap.
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      12-02-2011, 10:24 AM   #106
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Thanks for the extra pics SHATX. I put the black fuses in and I will compare our fuse boxes though.

I took a picture of mine before starting and did them side by side also.

:*(

I bought a fuse and fuse box tester. I will be testing each individually. I will keep you guys posted. Is it true that the CIC has a fuse on the machine itself?
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      12-02-2011, 10:26 AM   #107
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Thanks for the extra pics SHATX. I put the black fuses in and I will compare our fuse boxes though.

I took a picture of mine before starting and did them side by side also.

:*(

I bought a fuse and fuse box tester. I will be testing each individually. I will keep you guys posted. Is it true that the CIC has a fuse on the machine itself?
I am not sure but these threads i searched for you might be helpful:


http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=fuse+box

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...light=fuse+box


Found the problem, the fuse which controls the CID was blown (Fuse 61, 10A). Replaced this and all is well.

This fuse also controls the trunk light and glove box light.
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      12-02-2011, 10:29 AM   #108
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Will try this and report back!
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      12-02-2011, 06:16 PM   #109
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Here is a pic of my fusebox...those black ones are still there, huh?
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      12-02-2011, 06:25 PM   #110
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Here is a pic of my fusebox...those black ones are still there, huh?
Yep - from the looks of your pic they are still there.
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