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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



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      10-04-2007, 12:01 PM   #287
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George,

I've had my e90 now for about 6 months in that time the sprinklers have constantly left hard water on the paint. I have attempted to wash and use meguiar's scratchx constantly, but I'm exhausted with the constant maintenance. Ontop of that I have major swirl marks all over from the dealer's washes. I'm looking to get a porter cable buffer and was hoping you could set me up with a kit. Assuming, pads you would recommend using and the type of product(s) to use to remove hard water spots, swirls and seal everything back up. Thanks for you time, I look forward to hearing your recommendations.
Good question. Water spots can be a pain to remove by hand and often require a more aggressive solution.

The Porter Cable 7424 is a great investment to make to take your finish to the next level. On the bottom of the PC 7424 page you will see some complementary items and some works best with items. By selecting them together you will instantly save an additional 5% on those items. From the list of complementary items, I would suggest the following:One of the nice things this month is all of our pads are on sale from their normal price of $9.99 to $7.99. When you purchase them as a complementary item you receive an additional 5% off making it $7.59 each, our lowest price we ever offered our buffer pads.

For polish recommendations, I would definitely recommend the Menzerna line of polishes, as Stiffdogg also mentioned in the previous post.

I recently wrote a quick review on the differences between the Menzerna polishes and will let you decide which is the best fit for your vehicle. All of the polishes mentioned are listed under "Works best with" for the buffer so you will receive an additional 5% on these as well.

Super Intensive Polish (SIP PO83) - An excellent medium cutting polish that also leaves behind a great finish. On lighter colored vehicles you can get away with this as the only polish and go right into protecting the paint. This product has longer work time and dusts less than Intensive Polish. It also only comes in the 32oz size. This product excels on rotary and is excellent on a PC.

Intensive Polish (IP) - A great medium cut polish that usually requires a follow up polish before protecting the paint. It has the tendency to dust and does not have a long work time like Super Intensive Polish. This comes in 16oz and 32oz sizes. This product works great on a PC.

Final Polish II (FPII) - A great finishing polish that will remove any micro-marring or hazing left behind from a more aggressive polish mentioned above. This leaves behind an excellent finish and is easy to remove. This product has a longer working time than Intensive Polish and does not really dust much. We have this on 16oz and 32oz and works great on a PC.

PO106FF - This is the premier finishing polish that has slightly more bite than the Final Polish II but finishes down finer than any other polish on the market. This is easy to remove and does not have the tendency to dust. This only comes in 32oz and works excellent on a rotary or a PC.

For what you are describing, I would recommend some sort of medium cut polish for the water spots and swirls (either IP or SIP), then follow up with a finishing polish (either FPII or PO106FF).

To seal and protect your paint, I am not sure on the color of your vehicle, so I'll present a few options:

For darker colors, Poorboy's EX Sealant is a nice option because it has a touch of carnauba content in there that gives off a deeper, wetter looking finish.

On lighter colors or metallic colors, Poorboy's EX-P Pure Sealant is a great option.

Menzerna FMJ is one of my favorite sealants on both dark and light colored vehicles. It will last a month or so longer than the Poorboy's Sealants and the application and removal is easier than any other product I've used. One of the best benefits of Full Molecular Jacket is the surface slickness left behind after applying the product.

You have the option to top your choice of sealant with a natural carnauba wax as well for an added layer of protection and additional depth and gloss.

If you are ready to place an order don't forget to use the e90post discount code during checkout for an additional 10% savings on all applicable items.

If you have any questions on anything presented, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
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      10-05-2007, 11:17 AM   #288
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Thanks George, I'll be putting in an order soon for the items you recommended.

My next question is in regards to process, after washing the vehicle which is jet black in color, do I need to clay bar it before I get to the polish or just go straight from a wash to the polishes? Thanks.

Last edited by ae8t6ix; 10-05-2007 at 11:35 AM. Reason: Had additional question
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      10-05-2007, 12:14 PM   #289
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Using a clay bar will ensure that you completely remove contamination from your surface. This will improve your polishing results because if you were to skip the clay bar step, you are relying on the polishes to break down surface contamination. The abrasives in the polishes will round off the edges of the contamination and prematurely break down before touching your clear coat. Sometimes you will still be left behind with some stubborn surface contamination, which can limit the durability of your sealant and or wax in those areas.

I always recommend using a clay bar prior to a long polishing session, usually twice a year. It's little things that add up like this that makes a great detail an exceptional one.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
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      10-16-2007, 03:42 PM   #290
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Full Detail

I'm about to do a complete detail on my silver 325i for the winter season. I want to get the absolute best finished look (without breaking the bank of course!). Here is the plan I have outlined so far:

1. Wash/Dry - Wolfgang Auto Bathe
2. Clay - DP Universal Detailing Clay
3. Re-Wash/Dry if needed
4. Mix 50/50 iso. alcohol/water solution in spray bottle and wipe down panels (recommended in some threads to prep, is this needed?)
5. Cutting polish - Wolfgang Paintwork Polish
6. Glaze - Wolfgang Finishing Glaze
7. Sealant - Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, let cure for 24 hrs
8. Wax - Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax

No porter cable so I'll be applying it all by hand...

How does that look? Are there certain types of pads I should use for the different steps? I've never done this extensive of a detail so do you have any tips from experience?

Thanks, Jameson
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      10-16-2007, 04:05 PM   #291
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How does that look? Are there certain types of pads I should use for the different steps? I've never done this extensive of a detail so do you have any tips from experience?

Thanks, Jameson
Jameson,

Your process looks complete and on point. The purpose of the alcohol wipe down is to remove any previous layers of protection or if you do it after a polishing step, to remove excess polish and potentially any fillers that the polish left behind to reveal your true clear coat. With your plan it isn't 100% necessary since you aren't using it after a polish. Between the clay bar and the polish you won't have any remaining protection on your paint.

For application, standard foam applicator pads would work just fine. Remove each product with some paint safe microfiber towels. Pace yourself, hand applications with that many steps will definitely take a toll on your body if you haven't performed a detail that large before.

Keep us posted on your results, it sounds like you've done some research already and you are on the right track with everything.

Good luck.

George

Last edited by Detailed Image; 10-18-2007 at 09:12 AM.
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      10-16-2007, 04:07 PM   #292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Jameson,

Your process looks complete and on point. The purpose of the alcohol wipe down is to remove any previous layers of protection or if you do it after a polishing step, to remove excess polish and potentially any fillers that the polish left behind to reveal your true clear coat. With your plan it isn't 100% necessary since you aren't using it after a polish. Between the clay bar and the polish you won't have any remaining protection on your paint.

For application, standard foam applicator pads would work just fine. Remove each product with some paint safe microfiber towels. Pace yourself, hand applications with that many steps will definitely take a toll on your body if you haven't performed a detail that large before.

Keep us posted on your results, it sounds like you've done some research already and you are on the right track with everything.

Good luck.

George
Hey George where did your signature go?
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      10-17-2007, 09:45 AM   #293
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Hey George where did your signature go?
Signature is back up

George

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      10-18-2007, 12:31 PM   #294
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Hi George,
By the way great thread. I just picked My 335xi Sparling Graphite from the dealer on Monday. I plan on keeping the car 10 years and want to start some maintenance program to keep it looking good as long as possible. I will be doing it myself and was wondering if you can recommend some sort of schedule, how often to wax, clay bar, what products to use etc. Also would you recommend using a clay bar before my first wax? You end up reading so much info. that after a while you get more confused than anything. Again, thanks for the help.

Jack
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      10-18-2007, 02:08 PM   #295
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Jack,

Thanks for the positive feedback and congratulations on the new car purchase.

I like to perform 2 all out details a year, 2 mini-details and monthly waxes. Between there regular washings and quick interior wipe downs and vacuums. If you just got your vehicle, consider a schedule along these lines (and yes I would recommend claying your new vehicle):

October
  • Full Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Clay -> Polish (if needed) -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)
  • Full Interior Detail: Clean and Protect all Vinyl, Rubber, Plastic -> Clean & Condition Leather -> Thorough vacuum
  • Wheel & Tire Detail: Clean & Protect Wheels, Dress Tires
  • Engine Detail: Degrease & Dress Engine Bay
November - Wash & Wax

December - Wash & Wax

January - Mini Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Remove Layers of Protection -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)

February - Wash & Wax

March - Wash & Wax

April
  • Full Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Clay -> Polish (if needed) -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)
  • Full Interior Detail: Clean and Protect all Vinyl, Rubber, Plastic -> Clean & Condition Leather -> Thorough vacuum
  • Wheel & Tire Detail: Clean & Protect Wheels, Dress Tires
  • Engine Detail: Degrease & Dress Engine Bay
May - Wash & Wax

June - Wash & Wax

July - Mini Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Remove Layers of Protection -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)

August - Wash & Wax

September - Wash & Wax

October - Repeat...

I'll try to wash once or twice between waxes, so roughly every 2 weeks. Following a schedule like this ensures that you always have a base layer of sealant for protection year round and you maximize the additional depth, gloss and protection from the wax by reapplying monthly.

Regarding product selection, this is what I would recommend picking up for new car care based on the process above and what you described to me.

Washing & Drying:Paint Prep:Paint Protection:
If you'd like me to go over interior products, wheel & tire care, or anything else, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
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      10-18-2007, 02:37 PM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Jack,

Thanks for the positive feedback and congratulations on the new car purchase.

I like to perform 2 all out details a year, 2 mini-details and monthly waxes. Between there regular washings and quick interior wipe downs and vacuums. If you just got your vehicle, consider a schedule along these lines (and yes I would recommend claying your new vehicle):

October
  • Full Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Clay -> Polish (if needed) -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)
  • Full Interior Detail: Clean and Protect all Vinyl, Rubber, Plastic -> Clean & Condition Leather -> Thorough vacuum
  • Wheel & Tire Detail: Clean & Protect Wheels, Dress Tires
  • Engine Detail: Degrease & Dress Engine Bay
November - Wash & Wax

December - Wash & Wax

January - Mini Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Remove Layers of Protection -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)

February - Wash & Wax

March - Wash & Wax

April
  • Full Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Clay -> Polish (if needed) -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)
  • Full Interior Detail: Clean and Protect all Vinyl, Rubber, Plastic -> Clean & Condition Leather -> Thorough vacuum
  • Wheel & Tire Detail: Clean & Protect Wheels, Dress Tires
  • Engine Detail: Degrease & Dress Engine Bay
May - Wash & Wax

June - Wash & Wax

July - Mini Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Remove Layers of Protection -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)

August - Wash & Wax

September - Wash & Wax

October - Repeat...

I'll try to wash once or twice between waxes, so roughly every 2 weeks. Following a schedule like this ensures that you always have a base layer of sealant for protection year round and you maximize the additional depth, gloss and protection from the wax by reapplying monthly.

Regarding product selection, this is what I would recommend picking up for new car care based on the process above and what you described to me.

Washing & Drying:Paint Prep:Paint Protection:
If you'd like me to go over interior products, wheel & tire care, or anything else, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
Thanks, this is great. When you say remove layers of protection do you mean Clay? Also, what products would you use for wheel and tire protection?

Thanks again,
Jack
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      10-18-2007, 03:46 PM   #297
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Thanks, this is great. When you say remove layers of protection do you mean Clay? Also, what products would you use for wheel and tire protection?

Thanks again,
Jack
Jack,

To remove previous coats of protection I use a combination of isopropyl alcohol dilluted 1:1 with distilled water in a spray bottle. Use it like a quick detailer and an ultra plush microfiber towel. Claying would also aid in removing previous coats of protection, but I usually only clay my vehicle twice a year as outlined in the detailing routine.

For wheel and tire care, I like to keep it simple. Apply 2 - 3 thin coats of Poorboy's Wheel Sealant on your wheels and you will be thanking yourself in the future. The Wheel Sealant will provide a barrier of protection for your wheels so that brake dust slides off with ease with a simple wash and dry. If you care for your vehicle regularly, all you'll ever need is automotive shampoo and water (and I recommend a dedicated wash mitt for your wheels as well). For a tire dressing, I love Poorboy's Bold 'n Bright. It's a water based formula that gets absorbed by your tires and nourishes the rubber keeping it soft and flexible. This is the opposite of silicone based dressings that sit on the surface of your tires, which often yields to tire dressing sling, and potentially dry, crack and brown your tires.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
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      11-01-2007, 10:05 AM   #298
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George,

Is BioAPC safe to use on painted surfaces? I'm thinking this will be great on my tires, but wondered about the grease build-up on the chain guard on my bike. It's custom painted like the rest of the bike.
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      11-01-2007, 12:43 PM   #299
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George,

Is BioAPC safe to use on painted surfaces? I'm thinking this will be great on my tires, but wondered about the grease build-up on the chain guard on my bike. It's custom painted like the rest of the bike.
Poorboy's Bio APC is safe to use on paint. I use it to break up tar, sap, bug splatter, etc. and also to degrease my engine bay. It also works wonders on tires, as you mentioned. I typically dilute the product 3:1 with distilled water, so 1 32oz bottle results in a gallon of degreaser.

One thing to keep in mind though, it can remove previous coats of protection, so you would want to reapply your sealant and / or wax you have on your paint.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

George
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      11-01-2007, 01:02 PM   #300
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Hey George,

Does DI over any sort of loss/damage warranty on products you sell??? Cause I lost my PB wheel sealant
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      11-01-2007, 01:33 PM   #301
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Detailing Very Dirty Wheels

Hi George, I think a lot of members could benefit from this question, so I'll post it.

I have spent a full day most weekends since June detailing my two cars. They are looking exceptional, and am very pleased with the results (a significant amount of what I have learned has come from you - thank you).

On my older car, I am ready to remove the wheels to clean them from the back. It will be 13 years old in January, and they have never been cleaned from the back.

I have Poorboy's AP cleaner & degreaser. Do you recommend I liberally spray them, perhaps with a more concentrated solution - full strength, is that too concentrated?

Any other tips for cleaning these wheels? I looked at the back of them with a flashlight at night, and oh my gawd, it looks like they have a coat of black gunk 1/4" thick!!

Also, I currently seal the front of my wheels with Menzerna SIP (as a final-step cleaning), and then Zaino Z2 followed w/ ZCS. Do you like the Poorboy's wheel sealant better than the Z2/ZCS combo?
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      11-04-2007, 11:39 AM   #302
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Hey George,

Does DI over any sort of loss/damage warranty on products you sell??? Cause I lost my PB wheel sealant
I wish things could be that easy. Only loss or damage protection is during shipping through FedEx. Hopefully it turns up for you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtjones View Post
Hi George, I think a lot of members could benefit from this question, so I'll post it.

I have spent a full day most weekends since June detailing my two cars. They are looking exceptional, and am very pleased with the results (a significant amount of what I have learned has come from you - thank you).

On my older car, I am ready to remove the wheels to clean them from the back. It will be 13 years old in January, and they have never been cleaned from the back.

I have Poorboy's AP cleaner & degreaser. Do you recommend I liberally spray them, perhaps with a more concentrated solution - full strength, is that too concentrated?

Any other tips for cleaning these wheels? I looked at the back of them with a flashlight at night, and oh my gawd, it looks like they have a coat of black gunk 1/4" thick!!

Also, I currently seal the front of my wheels with Menzerna SIP (as a final-step cleaning), and then Zaino Z2 followed w/ ZCS. Do you like the Poorboy's wheel sealant better than the Z2/ZCS combo?
Good question rtjones. Thanks for the kind words, I know how much time and dedication you put into your vehicles these past few months.

Even though your wheels seem like they need a lot of attention from the back side, I would still recommend starting off with a diluted version of Poorboy's Bio APC. With any product, I'd test a small area first before liberally spraying down all of your wheels. On some finishes, Bio APC can oxidize them, however this is usually on high polished finishes, not standard alloy wheels. I'd suggest starting off with 3:1 ratio and see how that goes. If it's not getting the job done, then you can increase the concentration assuming your test area went smoothly.

Chances are you are going to need some elbow grease on top of just spraying down the Bio APC. You may even consider giving the inner parts a quick polish before protecting your wheels as you have done on the front of them. The micro abrasives in the polish should also help cut thru embedded brake dust and other road contamination that has accumulated over the years.

I haven't used the Zaino combo on any wheels so I cannot comment on the performance of that. Poorboy's Wheel Sealant is specifically formulated for wheels and to withstand higher brake temps, so it is one of the best products available for protecting your wheels. It also has some mild cleaners thru the solvents, which can help remove some stubborn brake dust. I recommend 2 - 3 thin coats of Wheel Sealant which can expect to last you around 3 months of protection.

Keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

Thanks again,

George
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      11-05-2007, 10:36 AM   #303
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I went ahead and reordered, because I'm pretty sure that was on the lid in the back of my truck that went on a frisbee excursion on the freeway . . .
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      11-07-2007, 02:46 PM   #304
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George, any experience with the White Knight Powerstick, for use on rims?

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Link to 'inventor':

http://whiteknightpowerstick.wikispaces.com/

The concept seems sound, but durability may be an issue (per Autopia member review). $50 is a lot of money.
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      11-08-2007, 12:10 PM   #305
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George, any experience with the White Knight Powerstick, for use on rims?

The concept seems sound, but durability may be an issue (per Autopia member review). $50 is a lot of money.
Unfortunately I do not have any experience with this product. My main concern with the unit is pushing contamination around at a high speed could potentially add some scratches, but if you are using this between spokes and to clean behind the wheels, most people wouldn't mind. If you end up getting one, keep us posted on how it worked for you.

George
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      11-08-2007, 09:11 PM   #306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Jack,

Thanks for the positive feedback and congratulations on the new car purchase.

I like to perform 2 all out details a year, 2 mini-details and monthly waxes. Between there regular washings and quick interior wipe downs and vacuums. If you just got your vehicle, consider a schedule along these lines (and yes I would recommend claying your new vehicle):

October
  • Full Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Clay -> Polish (if needed) -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)
  • Full Interior Detail: Clean and Protect all Vinyl, Rubber, Plastic -> Clean & Condition Leather -> Thorough vacuum
  • Wheel & Tire Detail: Clean & Protect Wheels, Dress Tires
  • Engine Detail: Degrease & Dress Engine Bay
November - Wash & Wax

December - Wash & Wax

January - Mini Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Remove Layers of Protection -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)

February - Wash & Wax

March - Wash & Wax

April
  • Full Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Clay -> Polish (if needed) -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)
  • Full Interior Detail: Clean and Protect all Vinyl, Rubber, Plastic -> Clean & Condition Leather -> Thorough vacuum
  • Wheel & Tire Detail: Clean & Protect Wheels, Dress Tires
  • Engine Detail: Degrease & Dress Engine Bay
May - Wash & Wax

June - Wash & Wax

July - Mini Exterior Detail: Wash & Dry -> Remove Layers of Protection -> Glaze (optional) -> Sealant -> Wax (after sealant cures for 24 hours)

August - Wash & Wax

September - Wash & Wax

October - Repeat...

I'll try to wash once or twice between waxes, so roughly every 2 weeks. Following a schedule like this ensures that you always have a base layer of sealant for protection year round and you maximize the additional depth, gloss and protection from the wax by reapplying monthly.

Regarding product selection, this is what I would recommend picking up for new car care based on the process above and what you described to me.

Washing & Drying:Paint Prep:Paint Protection:
If you'd like me to go over interior products, wheel & tire care, or anything else, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
george,

1/ i just sent u a Pm today regarding another shipment to my NY apartment to be hand carried to quito, ecuador....remember me?

2/ according to your above schedule, u only wash your car once a month?
if this is so, are my weekly washes going to hurt my paint?
i use only the best car washes, and use your waffle weave drying towels, and blot , blot, blot..in other words, i know what i am doing...

but weekly washes will hurt my paint??

thanks,
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      11-09-2007, 09:58 AM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midlife View Post
george,

1/ i just sent u a Pm today regarding another shipment to my NY apartment to be hand carried to quito, ecuador....remember me?

2/ according to your above schedule, u only wash your car once a month?
if this is so, are my weekly washes going to hurt my paint?
i use only the best car washes, and use your waffle weave drying towels, and blot , blot, blot..in other words, i know what i am doing...

but weekly washes will hurt my paint??

thanks,
Hey midlife, how's it been. Of course I remember. I got your PM and will be replying to it shortly.

Re washing: If you look right below the monthly recommendations it says "I'll try to wash once or twice between waxes, so roughly every 2 weeks." With the proper washing and drying tools and techniques weekly washes are perfectly fine.

I'll be in touch with you shortly. Thanks again, great to hear from you!

George
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      11-10-2007, 07:29 PM   #308
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Hi george its Pete, its been a while. Hows everything? business and life in general? lol
Well anyway i recently purchased a ALL WHEEL ClEANER Meguairs Gold Class, i am reluctnat to use it. just wanted to ask your advice on this. I have Iforged Drifts with a polished lip. the wheels have have a clear coat gloss finish.(anthracite)
Im a big fan of all Meguairs products and i have never been let down by them from the waxes to polishes. SO do you think i should give it a shot instead of just using soap and water?
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