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      03-22-2008, 08:45 PM   #397
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Hey! So I was driving around today and had a decent size piece of ice fall on my hood off a phone line...left me a nice chip in my hood....any ideas whether this is easily fixed at a shop (my car is 2 weeks old) and what the cost (very rough estimate is cool) would be?


*car is jet black, chip is about half the size of a pencil eraser
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      03-25-2008, 01:59 AM   #398
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Hi George,

I want to start learning how to use a Porter Cable 7424 (seems like a good one to go with). If I wanted to use the Porter to mainly remove swirls and fine scratches, is your "Porter Cable 7424 Advanced Kit" a good buy? or overkill, hehe

I also noticed that you have this nice diagram regarding swirl marks in the clear coat:



And you also have swirl removing products (SSR1, SSR2, and SSR3). Does SSR1 correspond to helping with the "heavy" scratches in the image above?

Let's say I have a very deep swirl, is the correct procedure to use SSR3, 2, then 1 to finish it off? or will just using SSR3 be enough?

Thanks!
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      03-25-2008, 08:46 AM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vudoo4u2 View Post
Hey! So I was driving around today and had a decent size piece of ice fall on my hood off a phone line...left me a nice chip in my hood....any ideas whether this is easily fixed at a shop (my car is 2 weeks old) and what the cost (very rough estimate is cool) would be?

*car is jet black, chip is about half the size of a pencil eraser
If the chip is that small, I personally would tackle the repair myself. I am not sure what a shop would charge honestly. It should be any easy fix for anyone who is skilled at chip repairs. There are kits out there like Langka or Dr. Colorchip to DIY and it should come out decent.

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Hi George,

I want to start learning how to use a Porter Cable 7424 (seems like a good one to go with). If I wanted to use the Porter to mainly remove swirls and fine scratches, is your "Porter Cable 7424 Advanced Kit" a good buy? or overkill, hehe

I also noticed that you have this nice diagram regarding swirl marks in the clear coat:



And you also have swirl removing products (SSR1, SSR2, and SSR3). Does SSR1 correspond to helping with the "heavy" scratches in the image above?

Let's say I have a very deep swirl, is the correct procedure to use SSR3, 2, then 1 to finish it off? or will just using SSR3 be enough?

Thanks!
Good questions. The PC Advanced Kit gives you everything the PC Starter Kit gives you but with more pads. When I polish, I tend to use about 3 pads per coat of polish and find that the results are better if you keep your pad fresh. There are two ways of doing that: 1) Swap out your pad for a new, fresh one 2) Take the time after every panel or two and clean out your pad while your detailing with some sort of brush, like a toothbrush, etc. I prefer using a fresh pad because it will prolong the life of your pad by changing it out sooner and it will come out cleaner when you go to clean it afterwards. So the way I polish, you can never really have enough clean pads.

Regarding the SSR3, 2, 1... Honestly, I'd say ditch the SSR polishes and goto the Menzerna polishes. They perform significantly better for me than the SSR polishes do and are easier to achieve better results. Here's what I'd recommend for removing swirls and fine scratches:

Finishing polish is the least aggressive but brings out the most depth and gloss, and can remove hazing or micro-marring left behind from a more aggressive polish. This product will remove light swirls. I'd suggest Menzerna PO106FF. I recommend using the White Polishing Pads with this product.

For a medium cut polish with the PC, I'd suggest going with either Intensive Polish or Super Intensive Polish. The Super version will have longer work time with the polish, will not dust as easily, and will finish down the paint finer than regular Intensive Polish. If you plan on following up with the PO106FF afterwards, being able to finish down finer isn't much of an issue, since you'll achieve a better finish with the PO106FF. The cutting ability is about the same between the two, but the Super Intensive Polish is easier to work with. This products will remove medium to light swirls. I usually end up using an Orange Light Cutting Pad with this product.

If you need something even more aggressive than those two, then you'd want to look into Menzerna Power Gloss. This is their compound and is the most aggressive polish Menzerna offers. You certainly want to exhaust using the (Super) Intensive Polish and PO106FF first and see your results in a small area before diving right into using Power Gloss. This product is designed to remove heavy swirls and minor scratches. I typically use a Yellow Cutting Pad with this product.

Hope this helps!

George @ Detailed Image
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      03-25-2008, 10:53 AM   #400
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Hey George, PB wheel sealant on powder coated rims?
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      03-25-2008, 08:00 PM   #401
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are there any products that will clean the paint without being abrasive, i'm thinking of a chemical polish but without protection properties and oils such as Klasse AIO?

i don't want to polish using abrasives too often (not needed), but i'd like to apply the sealant to a fresh surface every now and then.

also, what should i use to polish the (stock) exhaust tips on my 335i?

thanks!
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      03-26-2008, 10:02 AM   #402
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Quote:
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Good question. My best guess is that the clay is probably still ok to use especially if it's still soft and malleable. Most products have a shelf life of around 3 years, but it doesn't necessarily mean they are bad, they may just start losing some of their potency. As a clay lube, I think you'd be fine. If you want to play it safe, throw in a little auto shampoo for some extra lubricity.

The fact that the bars were sealed, probably helped a bit.

George
Thanks for you answer.

I'll probably just end up buying a new package to play it safe.
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      03-26-2008, 10:24 AM   #403
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Hey George, PB wheel sealant on powder coated rims?
As far as I know it's safe on powder coated wheels. If you want to be 100% sure, shoot Steve (owner of Poorboy's) an e-mail. I'll try to dig up the answer as well. If you get a reply back, let me know.

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Originally Posted by BayerischeMW View Post
are there any products that will clean the paint without being abrasive, i'm thinking of a chemical polish but without protection properties and oils such as Klasse AIO?

i don't want to polish using abrasives too often (not needed), but i'd like to apply the sealant to a fresh surface every now and then.

also, what should i use to polish the (stock) exhaust tips on my 335i?

thanks!
For a chemical polish, you could go with P21S Paintwork Cleanser or Poorboy's Pro Polish. Both of these products can clean the surface without leaving anything behind, making them an ideal prep before applying a sealant or wax.

For exhaust tips, I like to use either P21S Finish Restorer or Wenol with some 0000 grade steel wool, followed by a coat applied via foam applicator for increased shine. I have 2 new metal polishes coming in the next couple weeks. I'll keep you updated on those as well.

Good to hear from you.

George
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      03-26-2008, 10:33 AM   #404
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Regarding the SSR3, 2, 1... Honestly, I'd say ditch the SSR polishes and goto the Menzerna polishes. They perform significantly better for me than the SSR polishes do and are easier to achieve better results.
+1

SSR dusts like a mofo. Menzerna polishes are some of the best polishes that I have worked with. Dusty at times (i'm a PO106ff fan), but yield the best results bar none.
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      03-26-2008, 10:47 AM   #405
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I sent an email to the powder coater, to see what they have to say.


How much cleaning power does that leather product you have on sale provide? I have these funny brown spots on the back of my grey motorcycle saddle that don't seem to come off. Painter even wiped some turpentine or something like that, it just lightened them up a bit. Looks almost like a mold, but scratching (and sniffing ) doesn't do anything for them. I use H-D saddle soap on it every couple of months.
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      03-26-2008, 11:07 AM   #406
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I sent an email to the powder coater, to see what they have to say.

How much cleaning power does that leather product you have on sale provide? I have these funny brown spots on the back of my grey motorcycle saddle that don't seem to come off. Painter even wiped some turpentine or something like that, it just lightened them up a bit. Looks almost like a mold, but scratching (and sniffing ) doesn't do anything for them. I use H-D saddle soap on it every couple of months.
Great, let me know what Steve has to say. Leatherique is some of the deepest cleaning and conditioning leather care products I've used. The process is slightly unique, it's not a simple wipe on and wipe off product, but the results are usually worth while. Here's a link on how we recommend using the Leatherique products. I can't say for sure if it will resolve the problem or not, but if any product would help fix it, I'd put my money on Leatherique.

George
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      03-26-2008, 11:15 AM   #407
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That's the way I also put the saddle soap on: set the saddle in direct sunlight to get warm , then keep gently applying more saddle soap and letting it melt in. I think I learned that from reading Little House on the Prairie and understanding how to seal their boots with tallow by the fire There's no better way to waterproof your boots/shoes, especially the seams, then by using a hair dryer, melting the product, and watching it roll liquid into the seams.
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      03-26-2008, 11:31 AM   #408
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      03-26-2008, 06:44 PM   #409
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Hey detailers! I have a quick question for you that shouldn't be too hard.

My question is, what is the best way to wash microfiber towels? I searched and didn't have much luck because "wash" and "microfiber" brings back just about every thread ever created in this section, so please excuse me if this has been answered. I know they make stuff to add to your wash cycle to clean them, but is that the the best route? I know not to use fabric softener because you want them to be "staticy" to pick up dust and not leave any fuzz, is there anything else to know?

In not knowing the best way, I've typically in the past just washed them in hot water with no soap or fabric softener, then tossed them in the dryer to tumble dry. I figure that might be fine for towels that you just used to dry or clean windows with or whatever but if they have wax in them, I'm assuming just water isn't going to get it out very well. Please educate me.
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      03-26-2008, 07:50 PM   #410
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Hey detailers! I have a quick question for you that shouldn't be too hard.

My question is, what is the best way to wash microfiber towels? I searched and didn't have much luck because "wash" and "microfiber" brings back just about every thread ever created in this section, so please excuse me if this has been answered. I know they make stuff to add to your wash cycle to clean them, but is that the the best route? I know not to use fabric softener because you want them to be "staticy" to pick up dust and not leave any fuzz, is there anything else to know?

In not knowing the best way, I've typically in the past just washed them in hot water with no soap or fabric softener, then tossed them in the dryer to tumble dry. I figure that might be fine for towels that you just used to dry or clean windows with or whatever but if they have wax in them, I'm assuming just water isn't going to get it out very well. Please educate me.
I'm not certain if this is the best way, but it certainly is effective. I simply wash my mf towels and applicators (together if that's what I need to wash) on a warm/cold cycle, normal soil, with a bit of Tide, usually with a extra rinse cycle. I never wash my mf towels with cotton towels. I then dry them on the lowest heat possible (just a bit warmer than tumble dry). I just don't want them to get too hot, as it seems they may wear-out more quickly, though I have no experience supporting this. I've washed my towels probably 20 times, and they are in terrific condition.
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      03-26-2008, 10:33 PM   #411
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I'm not certain if this is the best way, but it certainly is effective. I simply wash my mf towels and applicators (together if that's what I need to wash) on a warm/cold cycle, normal soil, with a bit of Tide, usually with a extra rinse cycle. I never wash my mf towels with cotton towels. I then dry them on the lowest heat possible (just a bit warmer than tumble dry). I just don't want them to get too hot, as it seems they may wear-out more quickly, though I have no experience supporting this. I've washed my towels probably 20 times, and they are in terrific condition.
Good enough for me. I need to get a nice set of microfiber towels anyway, so as long as these last for a little while then I'm good. I'm more worried about anything like fabric softener that may coat them and cause them to scratch.

I was just curious because I just cleaned out the trunk of both of my cars and have a bucket full to clean.
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      03-27-2008, 07:24 AM   #412
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Ron provided some great advice. Here's a link on how we recommend caring for your microfiber towels (on the bottom of the page). When cared for properly (not only washing, but storing as well), your towels can withstand 100+ washes and still be in great shape. Let me know if you have any other questions.

George
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      03-27-2008, 08:42 AM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Ron provided some great advice. Here's a link on how we recommend caring for your microfiber towels (on the bottom of the page). When cared for properly (not only washing, but storing as well), your towels can withstand 100+ washes and still be in great shape. Let me know if you have any other questions.

George
Thanks for the link!

Once I start stocking up and get into detailing again (which I will undoubtedly do when I get my new 335), I'll be visiting you guys for supplies!
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      03-27-2008, 11:48 AM   #414
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Ron provided some great advice. Here's a link on how we recommend caring for your microfiber towels (on the bottom of the page). When cared for properly (not only washing, but storing as well), your towels can withstand 100+ washes and still be in great shape. Let me know if you have any other questions.

George
This link taught me a couple things - thanks, George. One thing I do with towels/applicator pads when I've used them with, for example, Poorboy's Trim Restorer, which has a heavy smell, or a wax, or sealant, even, is to give them a hand-cleaning in a bucket and some Snappy Pad Cleaner. This removes a majority of the product, then they seem to be cleaner after I've washed them in the house. And, my wife doesn't get upset because I've left the washer smelling like detailing product! (oops).

So the guide to caring for mf towels seems to suggest using a bit of distilled vinegar with every washing. I've not done that, and will try it, as even with the above process, I still find a slight smell on my app pads after the hand-wash, and the machine wash. Not always, but sometimes, certainly w/ Poorboy's Trim Restorer (which is probably my single favorite product!).
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      03-27-2008, 12:06 PM   #415
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This link taught me a couple things - thanks, George. One thing I do with towels/applicator pads when I've used them with, for example, Poorboy's Trim Restorer, which has a heavy smell, or a wax, or sealant, even, is to give them a hand-cleaning in a bucket and some Snappy Pad Cleaner. This removes a majority of the product, then they seem to be cleaner after I've washed them in the house. And, my wife doesn't get upset because I've left the washer smelling like detailing product! (oops).

So the guide to caring for mf towels seems to suggest using a bit of distilled vinegar with every washing. I've not done that, and will try it, as even with the above process, I still find a slight smell on my app pads after the hand-wash, and the machine wash. Not always, but sometimes, certainly w/ Poorboy's Trim Restorer (which is probably my single favorite product!).
You bring up a great point Ron. For the most effective cleaning, you always want to soak your applicator, microfiber towels, etc. in some water or degreaser as soon as possible after use. This will help break up the product while it's fresh, leaving you with better results when you put them through your washer. It also helps minimize smell, excess product, etc. in your washer and dryer since you aren't relying on that to do all of the work.

The distilled vinegar helps dissolve excess product. Many people even do this with their clothes. I find that it helps.

George
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      03-28-2008, 01:44 PM   #416
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Hi George,

I'm struggling between using a Lake Country green and white pad with Menzerna
PO106FF and Zaino AIO for light to light-med swirls.

I was thinking of doing the following:

Method A
1. Menzern PO106ff - green pad
2. Zaino Aio - green pad

or

Method B
1. Menzerna PO106ff - green pad
2. Zaino AIO - white pad

Which do you think would be better?

If some swirls are still stubborn, should I use Super Intensive Polish with a green pad first before using an orange pad?

thanks

LG
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      03-31-2008, 09:54 AM   #417
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Hi George,

I'm struggling between using a Lake Country green and white pad with Menzerna
PO106FF and Zaino AIO for light to light-med swirls.

I was thinking of doing the following:

Method A
1. Menzern PO106ff - green pad
2. Zaino Aio - green pad

or

Method B
1. Menzerna PO106ff - green pad
2. Zaino AIO - white pad

Which do you think would be better?

If some swirls are still stubborn, should I use Super Intensive Polish with a green pad first before using an orange pad?

thanks

LG
Both pad options should be sufficient to finish down either PO106FF and Zaino AIO. I don't think you'll see much difference, results wise, between the two options, but if you have both pads, you always want to finish down with the finer pad, so AIO and white would be what I use. Polishing wise, AIO is not going to remove anything more than the PO106FF. The benefits you're getting out of that is it will clean any oils left behind from the PO106FF, which you could do with an Isopropyl Alcohol wipe down, and it would provide a base for your Z-2 or Z-5 to bond to.

Super Intensive Polish will definitely have more bite than the PO106FF. You're always better off starting with the least aggressive approach to minimizing removing more clear coat than is needed to get the job done. I always recommend testing a small panel first, assess your results, then decide if you need more cut or not before doing the entire vehicle.

If you have any other questions, let me know. Keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

George @ Detailed Image
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      03-31-2008, 10:21 AM   #418
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George,

I am taking delivery of a car in a few weeks with Space gray metallic paint. I was planning on applying by hand Wolfgang polish enhancer followed by Wolfgang sealant. After research, I want to order a PC 7424. Since this is a new car should I apply polish enhancer with a white Lake Country and sealant with a blue pad. Is this what you would rec. ? Also, does the counterweight need to placed on the backing plate? I am worried about damaging the paint. I should only use the weight of the orbital correct? Thanks, Nick
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