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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



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      08-11-2008, 01:53 PM   #573
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wow this is a awesome thread! thanks for taking the time to do this!!

i have a few questions.

i am using a sonus wool washing mit to wash my car, along with a two bucket system, i am also using chemical guys ultra plush and soft MF to dry my car.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/530_xl_M...mic_1000_3.htm

is wavvle weave better then this is dry my car off, i feel as if wavvle weave might too hard?

also as of right now, i just finished using TQ ICE car wash and am using NXT car wash for now, what other shampoo can i use to wash my car.

just for a history for my car, its sapphire black, in pretty good condition, couple swirls from 3 times of going in the car wash, but lightly nothing real bad.

its garage kept and washed 1-2 times a week. its about a year old with 10k or more on the dial.

also i have never put ,claybar, polish, wax or sealant of any kind on it, but my bmw dealer did do somewhat of a detail on it, not sure how that worked maybe a polish and wax?

what is the best wash to use in my condition?

i also use FK1 #425 when im done with the wash to top it off.
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      08-11-2008, 01:56 PM   #574
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Nice chart, but WHY would I want more/less RPM/OPMs?

I noticed that as the product broke down, it got smoother and I normally stopped when it got to the point of being just a slight haze on the surface (or my back was aching from bending over teh hood that way) It wasn't necessarily dusting off, but working it longer made it a lot easier to wipe off.
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      08-11-2008, 01:58 PM   #575
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RUN AWAY from Cal dusters!!!!!!! Better to let the wind blow it off than drag that stuff around with a duster.
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      08-12-2008, 02:45 PM   #576
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Question... I am going to do a full force detail on my car tomorrow. I have been using different products, but now I have newr stuff and a pc. Should I be fine doing the usual wash and clay as far as removing everything that is on there, or should I wash with dawn or something along those lines? Thanks!

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      08-13-2008, 08:34 AM   #577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by l8apexer View Post
What an informative thread! I'm just beginning to dig in to learn more about detailing and am happy to have found this medium - a big to Detailed Image. In the past, I've used more mainstream options such as Griots and 3M hand glaze with Blitz carnauba. However, I'm interested in more professional results and stepping up to a polish/sealant/wax process -- would appreciate any initial insight on products to get started (just placed an initial order with Detailed Image for proper wash and drying items). That said, would really appreciate insight on the following:

- I'd like to hang onto the Griots buffer, for the time being anyway - will the pads offered by DI work for this machine?
- What regimine and products would you recommend for paint treatment as a starting point? I recently clayed and waxed my 2008 sparkling graphite E90 with existing Griots products; however, under florescent lighting I still see that there are some slight swirls. My intent would be to rework the car, trying newly recommended products/processes around the end of the summer prior to the winter season.
- What product do you recommend for use on leatherette interiors?
- What is your recommendation for dusting (or is it advised) between car washes (e.g. what is your opinion of a microfiber or california style duster)?

Thanks in advance for your time!
Thanks for the kind words! Regarding your Griot's buffer, as long as it utilizes a velcro backing plate, our pads will work just fine.

To remove swirls, you're basically talking about thoroughly polishing your paint. I'd highly recommend looking into the Menzerna line of polishes to tackle this. Depending on how deep the imperfections are will determine how aggressive of a polish / pad combo you'll need to rid them. Most cars can benefit from a 2 step polishing combo. I'd suggest looking at the following as a starting point:

- Intensive Polish or Super Intensive Polish using orange light cutting pads
- Final Polish II or PO106FF using white polishing pads

For leatherette, I like to keep it simple. I've been recommending Poorboy's Leather Stuff because it's a great 1 step product that cleans, lightly conditions and UV protects. To top it off, it has a great leather scent to boot.

For removing a light dusting, I don't recommend Cali Dusters. We had the option to sell them, but I just don't feel comfortable recommending them to our customers. When used improperly, they can create swirls, scratches, etc. I turn to a plush microfiber towel along with a quality quick detailer to remove a light dusting. The lubrication from the quick detailer helps minimize adding imperfections to your paint. For light cleanings I usually turn to Poorboy's World Spray & Wipe, but there are other good options as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5soko335i View Post
wow this is a awesome thread! thanks for taking the time to do this!!

i have a few questions.

i am using a sonus wool washing mit to wash my car, along with a two bucket system, i am also using chemical guys ultra plush and soft MF to dry my car.
http://www.chemicalguys.com/530_xl_M...mic_1000_3.htm

is wavvle weave better then this is dry my car off, i feel as if wavvle weave might too hard?

also as of right now, i just finished using TQ ICE car wash and am using NXT car wash for now, what other shampoo can i use to wash my car.

just for a history for my car, its sapphire black, in pretty good condition, couple swirls from 3 times of going in the car wash, but lightly nothing real bad.

its garage kept and washed 1-2 times a week. its about a year old with 10k or more on the dial.

also i have never put ,claybar, polish, wax or sealant of any kind on it, but my bmw dealer did do somewhat of a detail on it, not sure how that worked maybe a polish and wax?

what is the best wash to use in my condition?

i also use FK1 #425 when im done with the wash to top it off.
Good questions. If the MF towel you are using is working for your needs, by all means stick to it. Waffle Weave towels are specifically designed to absorb water in a safe manner by utilizing the textured waffle weave pattern. Our Waffle Weave Drying Towels are extremely soft, have silk edges, no tags, and are the best towels I've come across for safely drying your vehicle. Not to mention they are significantly larger than the Chemical Guys Towel and can hold a lot more water.

Wash wise, depends on what you're looking for. Chemical Guys Maxi Suds II is an amazing value for routine maintenance washes. Poorboy's Super Slick & Suds is also a great shampoo.

You definitely want to look into protecting your paint with a quality sealant and/or wax. Whatever the dealership applied is definitely done protecting after a year.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
Nice chart, but WHY would I want more/less RPM/OPMs?

I noticed that as the product broke down, it got smoother and I normally stopped when it got to the point of being just a slight haze on the surface (or my back was aching from bending over teh hood that way) It wasn't necessarily dusting off, but working it longer made it a lot easier to wipe off.
High RPM/OPM means it will break down the polish faster and more effectively. By going too slow, the polish may flash or dry up prior to the abrasive particles being fully broken down, which will leave you with less than optimal results. Slower speeds are safer, but you limit your ability to correct some of those deeper imperfections. To give you an idea, most detailers crank their Porter Cable right to speed setting 6 when correcting imperfections. This is equivalent to just under speed setting 4 on the Flex. Anything below that, chances are you aren't fully breaking down the polishes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iwugolf View Post
Question... I am going to do a full force detail on my car tomorrow. I have been using different products, but now I have newr stuff and a pc. Should I be fine doing the usual wash and clay as far as removing everything that is on there, or should I wash with dawn or something along those lines? Thanks!

Tim
Tim, if you are doing a complete detail with clay and polish, there will be no remains of any sealant or wax on your paint after you are done polishing. Some detailers like to strip off the protection prior to any of those steps, which you could use Dawn, or my preference would be to give the car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol / distilled water mix (50/50 ratio). Keep us posted with how the detail turns out for you.

George
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      08-13-2008, 11:37 AM   #578
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Plastic lens covers? I went ahead and hit the little third brake light cover on my roof over the weekend with 106ff/orange, and it seemed pretty smooth and shiny. So I moved on to the rear covers. There were a few scratches, and it cleaned them up and seemed to remain smooth. But those are big red monstrosities, not sure I want to polish the clears on the headlights or not.
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      08-14-2008, 01:12 AM   #579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Tim, if you are doing a complete detail with clay and polish, there will be no remains of any sealant or wax on your paint after you are done polishing. Some detailers like to strip off the protection prior to any of those steps, which you could use Dawn, or my preference would be to give the car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol / distilled water mix (50/50 ratio). Keep us posted with how the detail turns out for you.

George
Hey George, you are saying some detailers prefer to remove wax/sealant before claying? Is there any benefit to that rather than claying right over the sealant/wax? It's been a while since I've read about this particular step, but after I clay and wipe off residue w/ an mf towel, I then apply a thin coat of Zaino AIO, wipe off, then Z6 to make sure the surface is free of all dried AIO particles, then seal/wax. Any recommended change to that process?

It's been about 7 months since my last claying of my older car, and it needs it. Of course my standards are a bit higher now than they were a year ago when I first became a detailing 'nut'...
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      08-16-2008, 08:51 AM   #580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
Plastic lens covers? I went ahead and hit the little third brake light cover on my roof over the weekend with 106ff/orange, and it seemed pretty smooth and shiny. So I moved on to the rear covers. There were a few scratches, and it cleaned them up and seemed to remain smooth. But those are big red monstrosities, not sure I want to polish the clears on the headlights or not.
You can go ahead and polish your plastic lens covers like you would your paint. Usually I go a little less aggressive than I would with the paint. I would try to finish down finer than an orange pad if possible, white at least, preferably finer if possible for maximum results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtjones View Post
Hey George, you are saying some detailers prefer to remove wax/sealant before claying? Is there any benefit to that rather than claying right over the sealant/wax? It's been a while since I've read about this particular step, but after I clay and wipe off residue w/ an mf towel, I then apply a thin coat of Zaino AIO, wipe off, then Z6 to make sure the surface is free of all dried AIO particles, then seal/wax. Any recommended change to that process?

It's been about 7 months since my last claying of my older car, and it needs it. Of course my standards are a bit higher now than they were a year ago when I first became a detailing 'nut'...
Yes, I've done a few tests and some have shown me that claying does not remove 100% of wax. It certainly can remove loose wax and I'm sure it wears down the layer of protection. In your case, the Zaino AIO removes all of the remaining protection and gives you a fresh base to build off of.

Small benefits of removing the wax before starting any of the process is the steps you are doing are working on the paint right away, rather than wearing through the wax and sealant, then your paint. How big of an impact does it have? I'm not sure. Lately, I've been stripping my protection on full details by using a heavy concentration of Citrus Wash & Gloss shampoo. It's easy and it is during the regular wash step.

George
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      08-16-2008, 10:04 AM   #581
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Is the idea that the clay will work better on a surface where all sealant/wax has first been removed? If you believe so, I'll use the appropriate solution Citrius Wash & Gloss only before claying. I'm happy w/ Super Slick & Suds for routine washing.
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      08-17-2008, 06:03 PM   #582
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Hey george, after i'm done polishing the car, all i have to do is wipe down the car with a clean MF towel and then i can get on with waxing right?
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      08-18-2008, 05:59 AM   #583
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FIXED

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Why don't you ship to APO addresses? I had about 10 things in my cart, went to check out... but you only ship FEDEX. Blah.
Hey everybody,

It IS fixed... I just ordered some stuff today and there was an option for APO shipping. Thanks for hooking up us guys overseas! Hopefully it gets here fast.

Chuck D
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      08-18-2008, 11:47 AM   #584
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So, if I spent about 1.5 hours with glaze on a scratched section, then SIP/orange and 106ff/white and did just the driver's rear quarter and the trunk, did I spend enough time?

I did the hand in the bag on the trunk lid and couldn't feel ANYTHING

I also wandered around and hit just the scratches. Rosalinda is off the hook for those 4 inches on the passenger door, and I'm off the hook for those 6+ inches on the hood from the first time I tried to Z2 it Thanks George!
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      08-18-2008, 06:42 PM   #585
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George, if I plan on using 2 types of polish on my vehcile, i.e., orange/Menzerna SIP followed by white/Menzerna 106FF OR another option would be white/106FF followed by blue/PO85RD, what process do you suggest using to remove the polish in the first step, to prepare for the polish in the second step?

For example, I've finished w/ white/106FF, and have dried polish all over my vehicle. How do you recommend removing that before I begin polishing w/ the blue/85RD?

Thanks.
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      08-19-2008, 08:53 AM   #586
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Should use a MF after each section (2x2?) you do. You can't see if you might need to do it again unless you wipe off the residue.
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      08-19-2008, 09:18 AM   #587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtjones View Post
Is the idea that the clay will work better on a surface where all sealant/wax has first been removed? If you believe so, I'll use the appropriate solution Citrius Wash & Gloss only before claying. I'm happy w/ Super Slick & Suds for routine washing.
Taking things to extremes yes, the idea is to start with no protection (and no contamination before polishing) to get the absolute most out of any step of the process. How big of an impact does this have? Maybe not a significant one on a daily driver, but on a concours level detail, every little bit helps.

Citrus Wash & Gloss is a great product because normally, I'd give the car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol, but now I just wash with a stronger ratio of CW&G (2oz / gallon).

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidSnake2634 View Post
Hey george, after i'm done polishing the car, all i have to do is wipe down the car with a clean MF towel and then i can get on with waxing right?
Some polishes leave behind oils on the surface. To ensure they are removed, you could give your car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol or some Menzerna Top Inspection. This will ensure your sealant or wax has the optimal surface to bond to and it helps remove any excess polish residue from trim pieces. Can you go from polishing to waxing and still achieve great results, yes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckD View Post
Hey everybody,

It IS fixed... I just ordered some stuff today and there was an option for APO shipping. Thanks for hooking up us guys overseas! Hopefully it gets here fast.

Chuck D
Yes, we updated this as soon as we heard about it. Keep us posted with how things turn out for you! Thanks again for your support.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
So, if I spent about 1.5 hours with glaze on a scratched section, then SIP/orange and 106ff/white and did just the driver's rear quarter and the trunk, did I spend enough time?

I did the hand in the bag on the trunk lid and couldn't feel ANYTHING

I also wandered around and hit just the scratches. Rosalinda is off the hook for those 4 inches on the passenger door, and I'm off the hook for those 6+ inches on the hood from the first time I tried to Z2 it Thanks George!
Glad to see things worked out as planned! Keep up the great work.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtjones View Post
George, if I plan on using 2 types of polish on my vehcile, i.e., orange/Menzerna SIP followed by white/Menzerna 106FF OR another option would be white/106FF followed by blue/PO85RD, what process do you suggest using to remove the polish in the first step, to prepare for the polish in the second step?

For example, I've finished w/ white/106FF, and have dried polish all over my vehicle. How do you recommend removing that before I begin polishing w/ the blue/85RD?

Thanks.
Depends on how confident you are that there is no hazing or micro-marring left behind. To be 100% confident in your work, you should wipe down each step with some Isopropyl Alcohol or some Menzerna Top Inspection to help remove any oils left behind from polishes. Inspect your work afterwards in the proper lighting, then proceed to the 85RD. In most cases, PO106FF/FA will not haze or micro-mar using a white pad, but you want to make sure it was capable of removing heavier marring if you used a more aggressive combination before hand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
Should use a MF after each section (2x2?) you do. You can't see if you might need to do it again unless you wipe off the residue.
Sorry for some slow replies guys. Let me know if you have any other questions.

George
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      08-19-2008, 10:37 AM   #588
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Black/blue pads: Say I've applied Z2, then wiped with MF. Do I dare just put the buffer pads on and "buff to a brilliant shine" or do I need something on the pad?
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      08-19-2008, 01:15 PM   #589
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George,

Do you have anything that can help me with this?


I washed my car yesterday and I noticed several small blacks dots/specks on my bumper. I tried to scrub them off with soap and water but they started smearing like it was blue ink.

Do you guys think claying would remove this without smearing the blue all over my bumper or should I use a more abrasive liquid detergent?

I use ZCS and I understand that I would have to reapply if I chose either method.

Thanks!
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      08-19-2008, 01:15 PM   #590
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I also have a pic attached to the thread "small black specs"
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      08-19-2008, 01:25 PM   #591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Depends on how confident you are that there is no hazing or micro-marring left behind. To be 100% confident in your work, you should wipe down each step with some Isopropyl Alcohol or some Menzerna Top Inspection to help remove any oils left behind from polishes. Inspect your work afterwards in the proper lighting, then proceed to the 85RD. In most cases, PO106FF/FA will not haze or micro-mar using a white pad, but you want to make sure it was capable of removing heavier marring if you used a more aggressive combination before hand.
George, so it seems your recommended process is to remove the polish from each section, as I polish. Then to wipe down each section with Isopropyl Alcohol. I like that. It's a lot better than polishing the entire car, wiping down the entire car, then inspecting for areas I need to polish a bit more. Last time I polished one of my cars, Iím sure I used too much PO106FF, as I was finding it too difficult to remove the polish. I had polished the entire car, so then had to remove all of the polish over the entire car. It was so difficult to remove, I ended up running my hose over the car, as I wiped it with an mf towel. Pretty effective, but I like the idea of wiping each area as I polish.

Only thing that catches me is, Iím currently using Zaino AIO to remove all traces of polish, and to prepare the surface for Z5 or Z2. Zaino claims AIO helps the Z5/Z2 sealants to bond. The alcohol mix would remove all traces of polish, but wonít create that bonding foundatioin that Zaino claims the AIO does. Is that worth including in the equation, or would you just go w/ the alcohol mix, and then straight to the sealant? And is that a 1-1 isopropyl alcohol to water mix?
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      08-19-2008, 02:29 PM   #592
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What's the best way to clean the wheel wells on our cars? I'm assuming some kind of brush but not sure on product. Car soap doesn't seem to work that well.
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      08-19-2008, 05:37 PM   #593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtjones View Post
Only thing that catches me is, Iím currently using Zaino AIO to remove all traces of polish, and to prepare the surface for Z5 or Z2. Zaino claims AIO helps the Z5/Z2 sealants to bond. The alcohol mix would remove all traces of polish, but wonít create that bonding foundatioin that Zaino claims the AIO does. Is that worth including in the equation, or would you just go w/ the alcohol mix, and then straight to the sealant? And is that a 1-1 isopropyl alcohol to water mix?
I haven't used the AIO, but if you had an alcohol-clean surface, and use ZFX with the Z2/5 you should be great. The alcohol takes the place (in the previous iterations) of the Dawn wash to remove all oils. You've added in the polishing step, which often isn't considered in the directions from Zaino.
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      08-19-2008, 06:21 PM   #594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
I haven't used the AIO, but if you had an alcohol-clean surface, and use ZFX with the Z2/5 you should be great. The alcohol takes the place (in the previous iterations) of the Dawn wash to remove all oils. You've added in the polishing step, which often isn't considered in the directions from Zaino.
Yes, I would have to believe that if I have an alcohol-clean surface, the Z5/ZFX or Z2/ZFX would work exactly as expected. And I like the idea of spraying on an IA/water solution rather than wiping on the AIO and wiping it off. I'm curious to see what George says. Cheers.
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