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      08-19-2008, 09:22 PM   #595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Some polishes leave behind oils on the surface. To ensure they are removed, you could give your car a wipe down with some Isopropyl Alcohol or some Menzerna Top Inspection. This will ensure your sealant or wax has the optimal surface to bond to and it helps remove any excess polish residue from trim pieces. Can you go from polishing to waxing and still achieve great results, yes.

Sorry for some slow replies guys. Let me know if you have any other questions.

George
oh yeah, i meant polishing then waxing haha. thanks george

its all good :P
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      08-20-2008, 06:12 AM   #596
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Originally Posted by UncleWede View Post
Black/blue pads: Say I've applied Z2, then wiped with MF. Do I dare just put the buffer pads on and "buff to a brilliant shine" or do I need something on the pad?
There wouldn't be much benefit of putting a dry pad over a sealant after it's been removed. You can do this with a finishing polish, which will help burnish the paint to a deeper gloss, but you still need to apply some product while doing so.

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Originally Posted by tightwhite3 View Post
George,

Do you have anything that can help me with this?

I washed my car yesterday and I noticed several small blacks dots/specks on my bumper. I tried to scrub them off with soap and water but they started smearing like it was blue ink.

Do you guys think claying would remove this without smearing the blue all over my bumper or should I use a more abrasive liquid detergent?

I use ZCS and I understand that I would have to reapply if I chose either method.

Thanks!
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I checked out the pictures on your other thread and read your replies. It seems as though the clay may have removed the surface contamination, but now the ink (or whatever it was) may have stained your paint. Consider taking either a chemical polish to the paint or use a mild abrasive polish to clean up the remaining stains. My first bet would be to turn to something like Klasse All In One as a great chemical polish, if not, I'd try a finishing polish like Menzerna PO106FF.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtjones View Post
George, so it seems your recommended process is to remove the polish from each section, as I polish. Then to wipe down each section with Isopropyl Alcohol. I like that. It's a lot better than polishing the entire car, wiping down the entire car, then inspecting for areas I need to polish a bit more. Last time I polished one of my cars, Iím sure I used too much PO106FF, as I was finding it too difficult to remove the polish. I had polished the entire car, so then had to remove all of the polish over the entire car. It was so difficult to remove, I ended up running my hose over the car, as I wiped it with an mf towel. Pretty effective, but I like the idea of wiping each area as I polish.

Only thing that catches me is, Iím currently using Zaino AIO to remove all traces of polish, and to prepare the surface for Z5 or Z2. Zaino claims AIO helps the Z5/Z2 sealants to bond. The alcohol mix would remove all traces of polish, but wonít create that bonding foundatioin that Zaino claims the AIO does. Is that worth including in the equation, or would you just go w/ the alcohol mix, and then straight to the sealant? And is that a 1-1 isopropyl alcohol to water mix?
It's really up to you as to how far you want to take things. I have recently become a fan of using a paintwork cleaner or AIO product to provide an optimal surface for either your sealant or wax to bond over. If you have time and energy, go for the AIO to get the most out of your Z5/Z2 combo. I've never tested Zaino with or without Z-AIO so I can't give you an accurate opinion on if it would be beneficial or not.

Yes, the ISA mix with water was a 1:1 ratio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stimpy View Post
What's the best way to clean the wheel wells on our cars? I'm assuming some kind of brush but not sure on product. Car soap doesn't seem to work that well.
I usually treat the wheel wells with some sort of degreaser, such as P21S Total Auto Wash or Chemical Guys Grime Reaper. Let it dwell for a few minutes, then take a brush, mitt, sponge or towel and agitate the contaminated areas. Rinse down. I also spray my foam gun in the wheel wells and let the shampoo dwell for a bit before rinsing.

Hope this helps!

George
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      08-24-2008, 12:33 PM   #597
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I just bought a flex 3401 used and I've never used one before. Im a beginner and I want something simple like an all in one polish/cleaner then a glaze. My car is an 07 alpine white and the paint is in overall good shape. Some haze you can see in certain lighting. I want all that gone and I want a nice deep finish(as deep as alpine white can be). Im also wondering what pads I should use. thanks in advance for your help. I need to get the stuff I need soon because the polisher should be here any day. I might even get it overnighted.
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      08-25-2008, 05:12 PM   #598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotios330i View Post
I just bought a flex 3401 used and I've never used one before. Im a beginner and I want something simple like an all in one polish/cleaner then a glaze. My car is an 07 alpine white and the paint is in overall good shape. Some haze you can see in certain lighting. I want all that gone and I want a nice deep finish(as deep as alpine white can be). Im also wondering what pads I should use. thanks in advance for your help. I need to get the stuff I need soon because the polisher should be here any day. I might even get it overnighted.
Good question. If you have a light haze as you are describing, you're going to need to use an abrasive AIO product to put a dent in the haze. My personal recommendation would be to try a light polish, such as PO106FF / FA and put a coat of sealant on afterwards. This would ensure you would remove any hazing that is left behind on the paint. I'd recommend applying the PO106FF/FA with a white polishing pad for some good correction that finishes down nicely.

For abrasive AIO products, your selection is pretty limited and your results will not be as good if you break it up into a quality finishing polish and a good sealant.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask. Enjoy the Flex!

George
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      08-27-2008, 12:19 PM   #599
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George,
I just got a hold of a Makita 9227. What parts would I need to get started?
It comes with a 7" backing plate. I believe I need a 6"or smaller.
i.e. 5" BP with a 6" pad etc.....

Do you have the stuff I need on your site?
Please advise!
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      08-28-2008, 01:24 AM   #600
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hey george, I got the gilmour foamaster II foam gun thing from you guys. i followed all the directions, but i still can't seem to get it to work. it just sprays out water when i pull the trigger and no foam/car shampoo whatsoever. . I attached everything correctly including the siphon tube, the spray gun trigger, and I even set it at the setting where it dilutes the liquid inside the container the least. i dont know what to do :/.
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      08-28-2008, 01:59 AM   #601
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Hi George,
I was wondering what to do to remove light swirls off of the interior wood. I know they have a finish on them, would a regular light polish by hand do the trick? Thanks again for the last order - I'm planning on placing another order next week for pads and some Purple Haze
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      08-28-2008, 02:00 AM   #602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidSnake2634 View Post
hey george, I got the gilmour foamaster II foam gun thing from you guys. i followed all the directions, but i still can't seem to get it to work. it just sprays out water when i pull the trigger and no foam/car shampoo whatsoever. . I attached everything correctly including the siphon tube, the spray gun trigger, and I even set it at the setting where it dilutes the liquid inside the container the least. i dont know what to do :/.
What kind of liquid are you using?
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      08-28-2008, 10:49 AM   #603
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Thanks for the kind words! Regarding your Griot's buffer, as long as it utilizes a velcro backing plate, our pads will work just fine.

To remove swirls, you're basically talking about thoroughly polishing your paint. I'd highly recommend looking into the Menzerna line of polishes to tackle this. Depending on how deep the imperfections are will determine how aggressive of a polish / pad combo you'll need to rid them. Most cars can benefit from a 2 step polishing combo. I'd suggest looking at the following as a starting point:

- Intensive Polish or Super Intensive Polish using orange light cutting pads
- Final Polish II or PO106FF using white polishing pads

If I begin with the Menzerna polishes, what glaze / sealants might you recommend? The car is sparkling graphite - I've heard Klasse can be messy, would Jetseal or Blackfire be good starting points for sealant? As for glaze, do you recommend Menzerna if using their polish compounds?

Thanks again for the patience in and shared insights!
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      08-28-2008, 12:04 PM   #604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Houman21 View Post
What kind of liquid are you using?
P21S Total Auto Wash
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      08-30-2008, 12:06 PM   #605
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any suggestions for getting wheels to shine again?

Iforged wheel with deep lip....steel appears to be "cloudy" and or dull finish after 12 months....
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      08-30-2008, 07:51 PM   #606
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlspeed29 View Post
George,
I just got a hold of a Makita 9227. What parts would I need to get started?
It comes with a 7" backing plate. I believe I need a 6"or smaller.
i.e. 5" BP with a 6" pad etc.....

Do you have the stuff I need on your site?
Please advise!
Yep, here is a link to our 6" rotary backing plate, which is ideal for the 6.5" Lake Country pads we carry. We also just got in our shipment of 4" pads, which we also have a backing plate for, but it's not up on the site yet (next week).

Here's a blurb I just put together for another forum I'm on which sums up some polish and pad recommendations. When polishing with a buffer, I'd highly recommend using the Menzerna line of polishes. They are designed specifically to work with buffers, used by many high end professional detailers, and are known as some of the finest polishes available. Here are a few suggestions.

Best Possible Combination:

Compound - Power Gloss
Medium Cut Polish - Super Intensive Polish
Finishing Polish - PO106FF/FA
Burnishing Polish - PO85RD

Great Bang for the Buck Combo:
Compound - Power Gloss
Medium Cut Polish - Intensive Polish
Finishing Polish - Final Polish II

Lake Country pad recommendations for each polish in order of most aggressive to least aggressive:

Power Gloss - Purple Foamed Wool, Yellow Cutting Pad, Orange Light Cutting Pad
Super Intensive Polish - Purple Foamed Wool, Orange Light Cutting Pad, White Polish Pad
Intensive Polish - Purple Foamed Wool, Orange Light Cutting Pad, White Polishing Pad
PO106FF/FA - White Polishing Pad, Black Finishing Pad, Blue Fine Finishing Pad
Final Polish II - White Polishing Pad, Black Finishing Pad, Blue Fine Finishing Pad
PO85RD - Black Finishing Pad, Blue Fine Finishing Pad

I've bolded the most common pads I use with each product.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolidSnake2634 View Post
hey george, I got the gilmour foamaster II foam gun thing from you guys. i followed all the directions, but i still can't seem to get it to work. it just sprays out water when i pull the trigger and no foam/car shampoo whatsoever. . I attached everything correctly including the siphon tube, the spray gun trigger, and I even set it at the setting where it dilutes the liquid inside the container the least. i dont know what to do :/.
I noticed in a later reply you said you're using P21S Total Auto Wash as your solution. I'm not sure that is a product that is designed to work specifically in a foam gun. As you use the foam gun with it, does the canister in the foam gun go down? If it doesn't deplete the canister, then it sounds like it's defective. Are you diluting the TAW or pouring in straight product? Keep me posted, we'll get things figured out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Houman21 View Post
Hi George,
I was wondering what to do to remove light swirls off of the interior wood. I know they have a finish on them, would a regular light polish by hand do the trick? Thanks again for the last order - I'm planning on placing another order next week for pads and some Purple Haze
You can give a finishing polish a shot with a foam applicator pad. Test it in a small area first before applying it to your entire wood trim. Remember, some pressure is needed to properly break down polishes. Let us know how things turn out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by l8apexer View Post
If I begin with the Menzerna polishes, what glaze / sealants might you recommend? The car is sparkling graphite - I've heard Klasse can be messy, would Jetseal or Blackfire be good starting points for sealant? As for glaze, do you recommend Menzerna if using their polish compounds?

Thanks again for the patience in and shared insights!
After polishing, if you remove any remaining polishing oils with an Isopropyl Alcohol / water wipe down, wash with Chemical Guy's Citrus Wash & Gloss or Citrus Wash & Clear with a stripping ratio, use Menzerna Top Inspection, or prepsol, then you can apply any product without worrying about compatibility issues. Chemical Guys JetSeal109 is a popular sealant to use on SG. It's very easy to work with, has great depth and gloss and maintains well. If you wanted to use a glaze under JetSeal, consider Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze. You can top Jet Seal with a quality carnauba wax if you like for even more added depth and gloss and a second layer of protection.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmy335 View Post
any suggestions for getting wheels to shine again?

Iforged wheel with deep lip....steel appears to be "cloudy" and or dull finish after 12 months....
I usually turn to P21S Finish Restorer, a foam applicator pad and a 2-sided metal polishing towel. I apply the P21S FR with the foam applicator pad and work it in using some slight pressure. Then I take the more textured side of the 2-sided metal polishing towel and remove any haze left behind. Flip the towel over to the smooth side of the towel and buff to an even higher gloss.

Sorry for being slow to reply on some of these posts. Hope everyone has a safe and happy Labor Day Weekend!

George
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      08-30-2008, 11:09 PM   #607
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
I noticed in a later reply you said you're using P21S Total Auto Wash as your solution. I'm not sure that is a product that is designed to work specifically in a foam gun. As you use the foam gun with it, does the canister in the foam gun go down? If it doesn't deplete the canister, then it sounds like it's defective. Are you diluting the TAW or pouring in straight product? Keep me posted, we'll get things figured out.
I tried Turtle Wax ice car wash too and it still doesn't make any foam. Nope, the solution doesn't deplete. I first tried just the TAW, then i diluted it and nothing changed. Okay.
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      08-31-2008, 12:11 AM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
After polishing, if you remove any remaining polishing oils with an Isopropyl Alcohol / water wipe down, wash with Chemical Guy's Citrus Wash & Gloss or Citrus Wash & Clear with a stripping ratio, use Menzerna Top Inspection, or prepsol, then you can apply any product without worrying about compatibility issues. Chemical Guys JetSeal109 is a popular sealant to use on SG. It's very easy to work with, has great depth and gloss and maintains well. If you wanted to use a glaze under JetSeal, consider Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze. You can top Jet Seal with a quality carnauba wax if you like for even more added depth and gloss and a second layer of protection.
George, can you restate your comment here? I find it a bit confusing. When you and I last talked about this, we agreed I can use IPA/water solution (50/50) to remove all Menzerna polish, but here it looks like you are saying that, after polishing, to then wash w/ CW&G or CW&C, and then also apply Menzerna Top Inspection. Wow. I'm sure that's not what you meant.

Is the following fine?:

polish
wipe down w/ ipa/water OR wipe down w/ Menzerna Top Inspection

Since the purpose of these are to remove all oils so you can have the most honest review of the polishing you just did (section by section), I would believe one of these are recommended over a CW&G or CW&C wash, since you can't wash until you've polished the entire car, and the whole point is to review your polishing work section by section.

Thanks.
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      08-31-2008, 09:38 AM   #609
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Quote:
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George, can you restate your comment here? I find it a bit confusing. When you and I last talked about this, we agreed I can use IPA/water solution (50/50) to remove all Menzerna polish, but here it looks like you are saying that, after polishing, to then wash w/ CW&G or CW&C, and then also apply Menzerna Top Inspection. Wow. I'm sure that's not what you meant.

Is the following fine?:

polish
wipe down w/ ipa/water OR wipe down w/ Menzerna Top Inspection

Since the purpose of these are to remove all oils so you can have the most honest review of the polishing you just did (section by section), I would believe one of these are recommended over a CW&G or CW&C wash, since you can't wash until you've polished the entire car, and the whole point is to review your polishing work section by section.

Thanks.
Ron,

Your technique is perfectly fine. I was simply saying that any one of those methods would help remove polishing oils and give you a properly prepped surface before applying a glaze, sealant or wax. You wouldn't do multiple prep steps, just pick one. I was just saying there are options to remove oils from the polishes. I personally opt for the Isopropyl Alcohol or Top Inspection to inspect your work for holograms, micro-marring, basically any imperfections that the oils in the polish may fill before moving onto the next section.

The reason you may use more than one (which wasn't what I was trying to get across in the post you quoted) was after you polish a section, you want to check to see if you rid the imperfections, so you wipe down with some IPA, inspect, if satisfied move onto the next section. Well by the time your done, no matter how well you clean up after polishing, there still is probably polishing dust in the cracks, crevices, trim, on glass, etc. So opting for a rewash with CG CW&G /CW&C is a great way to rid the dusting still remaining on the vehicle (after all of the excess polish has been removed on each panel). So in this case, you would be wiping down each panel before moving onto the next with IPA/Top Inspection, then re-washing when completely done before moving to the next step.

Just to restate, after polishing, you can use one of the following to remove polishing oils from the paint:
  • Isopropyl Alcohol / Water wipe down
  • Menzerna Top Inspection
  • Wash with Citrus Wash & Gloss or Citrus Wash & Clear using a high concentration (2oz of product per gallon of water used)
  • Use Prepsol

Then after polishing is completed, you may opt to rewash the car to remove any polishing dust or debris that settled during the polishing steps.

Hope this clears things up.

George
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      08-31-2008, 12:10 PM   #610
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Thanks, George. I thought that's what you were saying.

Re: the Chemical Guy's CW&C, the product description states that it does not dry trim. What is your experience w/ this? If it removes leftover polish from the paint, it seems it would also have some effect on my trim. Especially if I wash the car w/ the concentrated solution (2oz/gallon) to begin the detailing, then another concentrated washing after the polishing, I'm thinking that will strip my trim to some degree.

I guess I'll find out when I use it. I like that most of my trim restorer remains on my trim/rubber after I wash the car w/ my Poorboy's World SS&S.
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      09-01-2008, 11:56 AM   #611
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Quote:
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Thanks, George. I thought that's what you were saying.

Re: the Chemical Guy's CW&C, the product description states that it does not dry trim. What is your experience w/ this? If it removes leftover polish from the paint, it seems it would also have some effect on my trim. Especially if I wash the car w/ the concentrated solution (2oz/gallon) to begin the detailing, then another concentrated washing after the polishing, I'm thinking that will strip my trim to some degree.

I guess I'll find out when I use it. I like that most of my trim restorer remains on my trim/rubber after I wash the car w/ my Poorboy's World SS&S.
I didn't find that it dries out trim, but it can remove any dressings or protection you have on the trim. I found that when I used CW&G at the concentrated solution, it helped prep the trim pieces to accept the dressing or trim restorer.

Let us know how it goes.

George
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      09-02-2008, 01:11 PM   #612
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George, earlier this year, the heater core failed in my older car. Not sure if you are familiar with what happens, but basically you end up w/ coolant being exposed into the vehicle's heating channel, and thus the cabin - horrible smell that lasts months until completely gone (certainly not heathy), as well as a film that gets all over your windows (this also prevents your defroster from working).

After having the core replaced, over the next many months, I thought I had removed all the film, but lately noticed a very fine film over one window in particular that I just could not remove. Windex did nothing. But if I rubbed my finger over it, it would smudge, so I knew it was something on the window that I should be able to remove.

I bought your Stoner Invisible Glass. I honestly did not know that windows could get so clean. Wow. That, along with a clean mf towel removed the film immediately and completely. Great product.
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      09-03-2008, 08:22 AM   #613
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George, earlier this year, the heater core failed in my older car. Not sure if you are familiar with what happens, but basically you end up w/ coolant being exposed into the vehicle's heating channel, and thus the cabin - horrible smell that lasts months until completely gone (certainly not heathy), as well as a film that gets all over your windows (this also prevents your defroster from working).

After having the core replaced, over the next many months, I thought I had removed all the film, but lately noticed a very fine film over one window in particular that I just could not remove. Windex did nothing. But if I rubbed my finger over it, it would smudge, so I knew it was something on the window that I should be able to remove.

I bought your Stoner Invisible Glass. I honestly did not know that windows could get so clean. Wow. That, along with a clean mf towel removed the film immediately and completely. Great product.
Ron, thanks for the review of Stoner IG! It's been a great product for me and is still my go-to glass cleaner. I wasn't familiar with what happens when the heater core fails, I appreciate the explanation. Be sure to keep me posted with your experience with the PO85RD and blue pad, looking forward to hearing about it.

George
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      09-03-2008, 09:35 PM   #614
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Hi George,
First let me say I think it's great that you're getting online and answering our questions as simple as they may be. Anyway, couple weeks ago I picked up my new car (BMW, dealer detailed), then a week later I washed it nice and clean. Couple days later the wind picked up at my parents house and blew their lawn sprinklers all over the side of my car. Should I start by claying the spots off or try just a AIO polish first? As for the windows, I am going to try a 50/50 vinegar water mix. Thanks in advance!
~Ryan

Edit: I haven't purchased any of the detailing supplies yet, but have browsed around your store. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
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      09-04-2008, 02:42 AM   #615
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This doesn't speak to Ryan's comment, but it did make me think of this. My wife and I were at a local BMW dealer recently looking at the 1s and 3s, brand new, and at this time we were standing near about 6 or so 3 coupes, mostly 335s, and every single one of them - every one - had swirls. These are brand new, never been owned. I don't think they left final assembly in that condition. It's shocking, really, that not one employee with appropriate authority cares enough to do something about the dealer prep process. I've seen this at more than 1 BMW dealer.

But then again, what would all us detailers do with our new cars if they came to us swirl-free???
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      09-04-2008, 09:13 AM   #616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucdbiendog View Post
Hi George,
First let me say I think it's great that you're getting online and answering our questions as simple as they may be. Anyway, couple weeks ago I picked up my new car (BMW, dealer detailed), then a week later I washed it nice and clean. Couple days later the wind picked up at my parents house and blew their lawn sprinklers all over the side of my car. Should I start by claying the spots off or try just a AIO polish first? As for the windows, I am going to try a 50/50 vinegar water mix. Thanks in advance!
~Ryan

Edit: I haven't purchased any of the detailing supplies yet, but have browsed around your store. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Ryan, thanks for the kind words, congrats on the new BMW! Hopefully the water spots are just mineral deposits that are left behind from the water evaporating. You could use the vinegar / water mix on your entire vehicle to try to remove them, but it would also remove any coats of protection on your paint.

Using a clay bar could be beneficial on a new car if you haven't clayed it yet. A lot of time new vehicles arrive with rail dust and other contamination from transporting the car. It could help remove mineral deposits that have settled onto your car. Claying before hand would ensure you'd get maximum durability out of the protection.

The AIO would be another good option to remove water spots. I turn to Klasse All In One when I am looking for a chemical polish. It will also help brighten the paint and provide you with a base coat to build off of for a sealant or wax on top or it can be used stand alone as a coat of protection.

Keep us posted on what you end up using and if it removes the water spots. If none of those methods work, your next step is to use the appropriate abrasive products on the marks. This would be required if the water spots etched into your paint already.

If you need a hand with anything else detailing related, let me know.

Enjoy the new BMW!

Quote:
Originally Posted by rtjones View Post
This doesn't speak to Ryan's comment, but it did make me think of this. My wife and I were at a local BMW dealer recently looking at the 1s and 3s, brand new, and at this time we were standing near about 6 or so 3 coupes, mostly 335s, and every single one of them - every one - had swirls. These are brand new, never been owned. I don't think they left final assembly in that condition. It's shocking, really, that not one employee with appropriate authority cares enough to do something about the dealer prep process. I've seen this at more than 1 BMW dealer.

But then again, what would all us detailers do with our new cars if they came to us swirl-free???
The only car I've seen swirl free was a car delivered with the plastic still on the paint and completely untouched by a dealership. There were still imperfections, but no typical wash swirls. It's pretty sad how the auto industry is run!

George
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