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      09-15-2008, 10:39 AM   #617
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I'm looking into buying a glaze since I do not have a PC. Which is better and easier to use? Meguiar's number 7 or Vanilla Moose glaze? Or what is your recommendation for my situation?

I was also thinking about buying some Natty Boys too so ultimately, I just want to use a filler then wax. Is this even possible? Please let me know. Thanks!!
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      09-17-2008, 12:18 PM   #618
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I'm looking into buying a glaze since I do not have a PC. Which is better and easier to use? Meguiar's number 7 or Vanilla Moose glaze? Or what is your recommendation for my situation?

I was also thinking about buying some Natty Boys too so ultimately, I just want to use a filler then wax. Is this even possible? Please let me know. Thanks!!
Depending on how deep the imperfections are, I wouldn't expect a glaze to fill in much. You will still see deeper swirls and other imperfections rather easily. I think a lot of people who use glazes for the first time expect it to fill in a lot, when in reality they only fill in minor surface imperfections. I just wanted to help get your expectations right before making any purchase.

I know a lot of detailers prefer to use ClearKote Red Moose Glaze under a wax though. I've used RMG under several waxes with good luck, the depth and gloss looks great. RMG is more on the oily side, which in the looks department really helps enhance the finish, however, I find it doesn't seem to fill much. It also is a very easy product to work with.

I haven't used Meguiar's #7, so I cannot comment on that product, but I'd venture to guess it may fill more imperfections than the ClearKote glazes.

I think you'd have good luck with a glaze and Natty's Blue combo. Be sure to keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out.

George
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      09-17-2008, 05:29 PM   #619
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George,
It's been said numerous times in some 29 pages of this thread, but, I think it's great that you've made yourself available on the forum to answer questions and offer your assistance. That being said..

I've ordered a bunch of goodies from you to get started this weekend. I have no prior experience with a buffing tool other than a 20 dollar special from Autozone. Better then using my hand...barely. I've got the flex, SIP, 106FF, FTG & FMJ coming. My first test vehicle is my fiance's Metallic Black 2006 Civic followed by my Black Sapphire Metallic 335. Both vehicles have swirl marks from previous improper washing/drying and a few clearcoat scratches which appear white to the eye but cannot feel them (most of them) by touch. Based off of everything I have gathered here, this is the order I am going to do this in. Recommendations/criticism etc. throw it at me. I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

- Proper Wash/Blow Dry
- Fine Clay
- 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water mix wipe down

- tape off all exterior trim, lights etc.

- Flex / Orange Pad with SIP on the entire car (or should I just do the areas that need the attention of the Orange/SIP combo such as areas with CC scratches)
- Flex / White Pad with 106FF on the entire car.
- 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water wipe down.
- Flex / White Pad with FTG (is there a cure time?)
- Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ (let cure 24 hours)
- Wipe down with some type of quick detailer for dust etc.
- Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ.

Note about washing - I live in an apartment so I have no water supply / hose. I use a coin-op car wash about a half mile down the street. That's the best I can do right now. I usually bucket wash early in the morning before the bucket nazi's arrive. In the future is it ok for me to maintain with CG's Waterless Carwash and a really plush Microfiber Towel? What are my limits to the amount of contaminates I can remove with the Waterless? ie dirty residue that dries down the sides of a car after driving in the rain.

Thanks in advance!

GP335i
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      09-18-2008, 09:49 AM   #620
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George,
It's been said numerous times in some 29 pages of this thread, but, I think it's great that you've made yourself available on the forum to answer questions and offer your assistance.

Based off of everything I have gathered here, this is the order I am going to do this in. Recommendations/criticism etc. throw it at me. I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

- Proper Wash/Blow Dry
- Fine Clay
- 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water mix wipe down
- tape off all exterior trim, lights etc.
- Flex / Orange Pad with SIP on the entire car (or should I just do the areas that need the attention of the Orange/SIP combo such as areas with CC scratches)
- Flex / White Pad with 106FF on the entire car.
- 50/50 Iso Alcohol & Water wipe down.
- Flex / White Pad with FTG (is there a cure time?)
- Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ (let cure 24 hours)
- Wipe down with some type of quick detailer for dust etc.
- Flex / Blue Pad with FMJ.

Note about washing - I live in an apartment so I have no water supply / hose. I use a coin-op car wash about a half mile down the street. That's the best I can do right now. I usually bucket wash early in the morning before the bucket nazi's arrive. In the future is it ok for me to maintain with CG's Waterless Carwash and a really plush Microfiber Towel? What are my limits to the amount of contaminates I can remove with the Waterless? ie dirty residue that dries down the sides of a car after driving in the rain.

Thanks in advance!

GP335i
GP335i, thank you for your support and kind words. You have put together a solid package and will see some dramatic differences in your results compared to what you were used to using.

It looks like you did some research before taking the plunge because your process is spot on for what you purchased. If neither car has been properly polished in the past, I'd recommend that you use the SIP on the entire car, rather than spot treating certain areas. After completing a thorough polishing session, then next time around you may want to just spot treat certain areas.

There is no cure time for the glaze, so after it's been removed, you can go right to applying your first coat of Menzerna FMJ.

Regarding washing your car, CG ONE Waterless Wash would be good up to a little dirtier than a light dusting on your car. If you have too much contamination on the paint, then you risk marring the finish. When your paint is really contaminated, I'd look into some Optimum No Rinse, which requires 2 buckets of water, but no need for a water supply. The more you stay on top of maintaining your vehicle, the more likely CG ONE would do the trick for you.

Thanks again for all of your support, be sure to keep us posted about your results! Take some pictures if you can.

Enjoy,

George
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      09-20-2008, 12:47 PM   #621
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Any ideas how to remove a gas stain from a white car? I used clay bar, no help. I used a polishing compound, it succesfully remove the stain from the mteal body work, but it was not able to remove the stain from the painted white bumper.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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      09-21-2008, 12:59 PM   #622
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Hello All ..I Just bought my first BMW and First Jet Black car.. I love the color and would like the basic deal on maintaning this daily driver, garaged car. One thing I worried about is the heated garage and the effects from the Salt on our roads.
I have had a green vw and s<the paint was great after 5 years. Are there differences in maintaining a Jet Black. I usually wash applying almost no pressure using a lambs wool and dry with a chamois. When I waxed I used various brands mothers etc and applied light coats in circle motion ( maybe not recommeded) and removed using almost no pressure.. and the car looked nice no swirls...still have the old pics.. As this is a daily driver is it better to wait towards then end of a week or spray down the vehicle every day to remove the salt, road dirt. Do you recommend the power washer. Do jet black need to be washed using no spray head and only the natural flow from the hose. I have seen this in car washed is there a reason.. I may have asked questions already answered, however in Montreal Canada, our winters are really bad and would need tips on regular maintenance.
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      09-21-2008, 06:38 PM   #623
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Originally Posted by Montrealwinter View Post
Hello All ..I Just bought my first BMW and First Jet Black car.. I love the color and would like the basic deal on maintaning this daily driver, garaged car. One thing I worried about is the heated garage and the effects from the Salt on our roads.
I have had a green vw and s<the paint was great after 5 years. Are there differences in maintaining a Jet Black. I usually wash applying almost no pressure using a lambs wool and dry with a chamois. When I waxed I used various brands mothers etc and applied light coats in circle motion ( maybe not recommeded) and removed using almost no pressure.. and the car looked nice no swirls...still have the old pics.. As this is a daily driver is it better to wait towards then end of a week or spray down the vehicle every day to remove the salt, road dirt. Do you recommend the power washer. Do jet black need to be washed using no spray head and only the natural flow from the hose. I have seen this in car washed is there a reason.. I may have asked questions already answered, however in Montreal Canada, our winters are really bad and would need tips on regular maintenance.
I heard that this winter is going to be pretty bad !!
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      09-23-2008, 08:21 AM   #624
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Originally Posted by stevenc View Post
Any ideas how to remove a gas stain from a white car? I used clay bar, no help. I used a polishing compound, it succesfully remove the stain from the mteal body work, but it was not able to remove the stain from the painted white bumper.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Did using the compound improve the painted parts, but just didn't fully remove the stain or did it not put a dent in it what-so-ever? If it helped improve the results, then continue polishing with the compound until it's been removed. The next aggressive approach to compounding would be a light wetsand, followed by compounding and polishing to remove the wet sanding marks. If the painted area is just stained, then I'd try a chemical polish first before taking heavy abrasives to the paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Montrealwinter View Post
Hello All ..I Just bought my first BMW and First Jet Black car.. I love the color and would like the basic deal on maintaning this daily driver, garaged car. One thing I worried about is the heated garage and the effects from the Salt on our roads.
I have had a green vw and s<the paint was great after 5 years. Are there differences in maintaining a Jet Black. I usually wash applying almost no pressure using a lambs wool and dry with a chamois. When I waxed I used various brands mothers etc and applied light coats in circle motion ( maybe not recommeded) and removed using almost no pressure.. and the car looked nice no swirls...still have the old pics.. As this is a daily driver is it better to wait towards then end of a week or spray down the vehicle every day to remove the salt, road dirt. Do you recommend the power washer. Do jet black need to be washed using no spray head and only the natural flow from the hose. I have seen this in car washed is there a reason.. I may have asked questions already answered, however in Montreal Canada, our winters are really bad and would need tips on regular maintenance.
Congrats on the new BMW addition

Properly caring for a Jet Black car is no different than caring for another colored vehicle, the difference is when swirls and other imperfections appear on the paint they are much more visible on black than other colors.

For winter months, I'd advise applying a layer (preferably multiple layers spaced 24 hours apart) of sealant, which will be your most durable source of protection. Most sealants will give you between 3 - 6 months of protection before needing another application. After you've applied your sealant, you can opt to apply a coat(s) of wax for increased depth and gloss as well as another barrier of protection.

Regarding pressure washing, it's ok assuming you are using a safe PSI. If you use TOO much pressure, then it's easy to add imperfections or worse damage your paint. With a Jet Black car, it's very important you learn the proper washing and drying techniques. The washing and drying step is where 70% or more of imperfections come from. Here's a link to our how-to guide on properly washing and drying.

If you have any specific questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

George
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      09-28-2008, 07:52 PM   #625
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George,
Just wanted to say thanks for your tips about my previous questions re: water spots, worked great. Also, the products from your store were very well put together and of high quality.

Now for my question. I clayed my car, then polished with klasse AIO with a light cutting pad (orange), then sealed with the klasse HGSG last weekend. This wekeend, I sealed it again. There seems to be a very slight haze/splotchiness to the finish. I am wondering if this is due to the fact that my car gets condensation in the evening (maybe not a full cure?). Overall it looks great and I am probably nit-picking, but I want to get this thing looking perfect. One other thing I noticed was that the when putting on the polish with the PC and the pad, it wouldn't "powder up". Should I just run over it with the PC for a longer amt of time? In the end it still came off with a MF towel and looked damn shiny. Thanks in advance!
~Ryan
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      09-28-2008, 11:44 PM   #626
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What would you use to clean the seatbelt? It has some funky smells-kinda oily smell.
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      09-28-2008, 11:47 PM   #627
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What would you use to clean the seatbelt? It has some funky smells-kinda oily smell.
probably to take a shower




















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      09-29-2008, 12:22 AM   #628
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probably to take a shower




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      09-29-2008, 11:32 AM   #629
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George,
Just wanted to say thanks for your tips about my previous questions re: water spots, worked great. Also, the products from your store were very well put together and of high quality.

Now for my question. I clayed my car, then polished with klasse AIO with a light cutting pad (orange), then sealed with the klasse HGSG last weekend. This wekeend, I sealed it again. There seems to be a very slight haze/splotchiness to the finish. I am wondering if this is due to the fact that my car gets condensation in the evening (maybe not a full cure?). Overall it looks great and I am probably nit-picking, but I want to get this thing looking perfect. One other thing I noticed was that the when putting on the polish with the PC and the pad, it wouldn't "powder up". Should I just run over it with the PC for a longer amt of time? In the end it still came off with a MF towel and looked damn shiny. Thanks in advance!
~Ryan
Ryan, thanks for the positive feedback. From what you are describing, my guess is that you used too aggressive of a pad for Klasse AIO. K-AIO is a non-abrasive chemical cleaner. The haziness you are experiencing could be due to the fact that you used an orange pad and never followed up with a finer pad. Unfortunately, I'm not sure if Klasse will be able to remove the haze, since it's non-abrasive. You may need to invest in a finishing polish to remove the haze completely, but that would also require reapplication of the Klasse products for protection. Klasse shouldn't powder up or dust, it remains pretty clear and transparent. If you're looking for a finishing polish recommendation, I'd suggest Menzerna PO106FF.

Keep us posted on what you end up using and how things turn out.

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What would you use to clean the seatbelt? It has some funky smells-kinda oily smell.
Consider something like Chemical Guys Fabric Clean. Fabric Clean will kill bacteria, which is usually the source of foul odor. It also does a great job cleaning carpets, fabric and upholstery. I'd recommend investing in a scrub brush as well to help work in Fabric Clean and to agitate any stains on the surface.

Hope this helps!

George
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      09-29-2008, 12:34 PM   #630
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Will try that, Thanks George
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      09-30-2008, 05:06 PM   #631
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Hey George,

I finally tried out the PFW pad this past weekend. Spent 9 hours on my neice's Accord, including wash, clay, sandpaper to a few spots, and then polishing. I used the PFW on a few bad areas, like where somebody made a poor attempt at keying it. Almost everything came out, she was totally stoked on how her paint was shiny again.

But the PFW did some funny stuff. I was using it with power gloss. I noticed there seemed to be NO HEAT on the paint at all, but after using it on a few spots I started to find what looked like toasted PG stuck to the paint. I couldn't see any residue on the pad and didn't use that much. Often I followed the path of the sratch with the PG bottle's opening, making a line where I intended to polish, followed by a spritz of water on the panel.
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      10-01-2008, 11:59 PM   #632
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Hey Detailed Image,

I'm absolutely new to detailing and detailing products but ever since I got my new Alpine White 328i Coupe last month, I've gotten almost addicted to these products. I started off with a Meguiars NXT starter kit on amazon.com but after doing more research and reading here on this site, I went and invested in a gallon of chemical guys Maxi Suds soap.

I live in the Los Angeles area and I wash my car with Maxi suds soap ever week because of all the dust and dirt spots that show up on the Alpine White. I've waxed once with the NXT tech wax but read that most of these OTC waxes don't last more than a week or two.

Since my car is fairly new, I don't really need any polish or a polisher right now, correct? And I should wait like 6 months or a year to get some of the polishing tools especially since I have a white car and its easier to hide the swirl marks?

And 2nd question is, what are the best products to use for a paint like Alpine White? Like specifically, I'm really interested in the Dodo Juice wax for white cars. Is this the best possible wax for white paint? And would be bad to mix say NXT tech wax followed by Dodo Juice wax?
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      10-02-2008, 11:19 AM   #633
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Hey George,

I finally tried out the PFW pad this past weekend. Spent 9 hours on my neice's Accord, including wash, clay, sandpaper to a few spots, and then polishing. I used the PFW on a few bad areas, like where somebody made a poor attempt at keying it. Almost everything came out, she was totally stoked on how her paint was shiny again.

But the PFW did some funny stuff. I was using it with power gloss. I noticed there seemed to be NO HEAT on the paint at all, but after using it on a few spots I started to find what looked like toasted PG stuck to the paint. I couldn't see any residue on the pad and didn't use that much. Often I followed the path of the sratch with the PG bottle's opening, making a line where I intended to polish, followed by a spritz of water on the panel.
One of the major benefits of PFW is that it generates less heat than foam pads. Glad to hear that you were able to remove most scratches and restore the depth and gloss to the paint again, I bet she was excited!

Sometimes I've noticed small specs of polish left on the paint after polishing and even after giving it a wipe down with a microfiber towel. What I usually do is take some Menzerna Top Inspection, some QD or some IPA / Water mixture mist a microfiber towel and give it another wipe. This usually does the trick for the small parts of the polish that seem to be stuck to the paint. I think this is similar to what you are describing. Every once in a while, these specs will clump together in a funny pattern and for a second I think I burned the paint until I give it a wipe with one of the above and it wipes clean.

Keep up the great work!

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Originally Posted by yiyiyi204 View Post
Hey Detailed Image,

I'm absolutely new to detailing and detailing products but ever since I got my new Alpine White 328i Coupe last month, I've gotten almost addicted to these products. I started off with a Meguiars NXT starter kit on amazon.com but after doing more research and reading here on this site, I went and invested in a gallon of chemical guys Maxi Suds soap.

I live in the Los Angeles area and I wash my car with Maxi suds soap ever week because of all the dust and dirt spots that show up on the Alpine White. I've waxed once with the NXT tech wax but read that most of these OTC waxes don't last more than a week or two.

Since my car is fairly new, I don't really need any polish or a polisher right now, correct? And I should wait like 6 months or a year to get some of the polishing tools especially since I have a white car and its easier to hide the swirl marks?

And 2nd question is, what are the best products to use for a paint like Alpine White? Like specifically, I'm really interested in the Dodo Juice wax for white cars. Is this the best possible wax for white paint? And would be bad to mix say NXT tech wax followed by Dodo Juice wax?
I read your other post and the members who replied offered some great advice to you. In regards to polishing your paint, as SpecC said, it doesn't matter how old the car is, it only matters how many imperfections are in the paint and if you can live with them or want to remove them. By removing as many imperfections in your paint is how you're going to achieve the most depth and gloss out of a lighter colored vehicle. This of course is done by properly polishing your paint, preferably with a quality buffer, such as the Porter Cable 7424 or Flex XC 3401 VRG.

I saw you said you picked up the Poorboy's Polish with Sealant and Natty's Red. This is a great combination to clean your paint, protect and enhance the depth and gloss. Keep in mind though, this will not remove swirls, scratches and some other deeper imperfections in the paint. You'll be quite pleased with the results the PBW products give you. I'd recommend applying at least 2 layers of Natty's Red for maximum depth and gloss, spaced 24 hours apart to allow for the wax to fully cure.

I'd recommend that your next investment is in a quality buffer and some polishes to remove imperfections. I'd suggest looking into the Menzerna line of polishes for maximum results.

It's also going to be very beneficial to you to learn about the proper washing and drying techniques, as this is the step where you tend to add a majority of swirls and imperfections to the paint.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. Welcome to the world of high quality detailing

George
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      10-02-2008, 01:37 PM   #634
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Yeah, at one point I was SURE I had scorched the paint with the PFW. The normally white polish was a light tan and bumpy. With a little pressure it came right off. I was thinking the whole time "Well, I got the big scratches out, but see this area here, I messed up"

I was going to offer advice when she came to look at the final results that her peeling original wheel covers looked like snot on the rest of the car, but first thin out of her mouth when she saw how shiny the paint was, was "I need new hub caps!" I told her I'd put them on for her, as long as they WEREN'T spinners
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      10-02-2008, 05:46 PM   #635
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I was going to offer advice when she came to look at the final results that her peeling original wheel covers looked like snot on the rest of the car, but first thin out of her mouth when she saw how shiny the paint was, was "I need new hub caps!" I told her I'd put them on for her, as long as they WEREN'T spinners
LMAO, that's great! It's funny how once the paint is in like new condition, the rest of the pieces like trim, glass, wheels, jump out and then you want everything looking like new. Sounds like you're putting a lot of great use to the Flex, I enjoy reading your posts!

Cheers,

George
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      10-04-2008, 12:56 PM   #636
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hey George,

I would first like to say that I am a beginner detailer and was recommended to detailed image and I am very pleased with your products!

A brief background of where I am at:


My paint is brand new, with minor swirl marks (some done by myself while claying ) and 1 minor scratch on my rear bumper which i had since delivery of my car in August.

foam gun with PBW super slick & suds
I do the 2 bucket /w grit guard system
spray down with TAW
Clay bar and z6 as lubricant


Zaino all-in-one
zaino ZCS- clear seal
z6 spray detailer
z8 grande finale

Here is my problem/question:

I am not too happy with the Zaino finish. I mean the paint is healthy, silky, but the shine is more of a reflective mirror finish, which i knew was going to happen, but i realized that i want a more warm, wet look

I want to know how do I strip down all the zaino products i've applied to the car and start over?

Right now i'm about to purchase the flex xc3401 with the starter kit.
PO106ff
Lime prime pre-wax cleanser
dodo juice purple haze'


With that said, am i going to have any luck stripping off the zaino and will i get that wet look from the wax that i have chosen?



thanks alot,



eric
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      10-05-2008, 05:05 PM   #637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericosaur View Post
hey George,

I would first like to say that I am a beginner detailer and was recommended to detailed image and I am very pleased with your products!

A brief background of where I am at:

My paint is brand new, with minor swirl marks (some done by myself while claying ) and 1 minor scratch on my rear bumper which i had since delivery of my car in August.

foam gun with PBW super slick & suds
I do the 2 bucket /w grit guard system
spray down with TAW
Clay bar and z6 as lubricant

Zaino all-in-one
zaino ZCS- clear seal
z6 spray detailer
z8 grande finale

Here is my problem/question:

I am not too happy with the Zaino finish. I mean the paint is healthy, silky, but the shine is more of a reflective mirror finish, which i knew was going to happen, but i realized that i want a more warm, wet look

I want to know how do I strip down all the zaino products i've applied to the car and start over?

Right now i'm about to purchase the flex xc3401 with the starter kit.
PO106ff
Lime prime pre-wax cleanser
dodo juice purple haze'

With that said, am i going to have any luck stripping off the zaino and will i get that wet look from the wax that i have chosen?

thanks alot,

eric
Eric,

Thanks for the post and kind words.

To start fresh with Zaino there are a few options. You can wipe your car down with Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water mix (50/50), wash with a high concentration shampoo designed to remove protection (Citrus Wash & Gloss or Citrus Wash & Clear), re-clay, polish the paint, degrease with TAW, use Prepsol wipedown, or wash with a detergent, such as Dawn.

Any of those (or any combination of them) will remove the protective layers of Zaino and give you a fresh start.

The look of the combination you mentioned should in fact give you more of that warm, dripping wet, glossy finish. Keep in mind that in terms of protection, you'll need to reapply the Dodo Juice Purple Haze more frequently than you would have to reapply Zaino.

Keep us posted on what you end up going with and post some pictures if you can! Looking forward to hearing about your comparison between the look of Zaino vs. Dodo Juice.

Cheers,

George
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      10-05-2008, 08:44 PM   #638
ericosaur
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Alright, so I can use the Citrus wash and clear (high concentration), re-clay, and wipe it down with 50/50 iso alochol and distilled water mix; and this should be enough to get rid of the Zaino?

I just dont understand how using TAW and polishing the paint does to get rid of zaino? sorry newbie here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Eric,
You can wipe your car down with Isopropyl Alcohol and distilled water mix (50/50), wash with a high concentration shampoo designed to remove protection (Citrus Wash & Gloss or Citrus Wash & Clear), re-clay, polish the paint, degrease with TAW, use Prepsol wipedown, or wash with a detergent, such as Dawn.

Any of those (or any combination of them) will remove the protective layers of Zaino and give you a fresh start.
And I can't wait to begin using DoDo juice after using the flex 3401 to polish
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