[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rheemix

George,

What's the usual order processing time? I had some time this Friday and wanted to detail my car, so I placed the order last weekend, hoping it'd get shipped out either Monday or Tuesday (I'm in two-day delivery zone). I just checked the status online, and it says it's still "awaiting shipment". I guess I'll have to wait until next week to detail my car, but I want to know if this is your normal processing time, so I can better time things next time. Thank you.

J

If we have everything in stock usually next day. Right now we have no back orders, so it should have shipped out already. If you want to PM me your order number I'll dig up the tracking and let you know the status. Sometimes if our warehouse had to delete a shipping label and didn't reupload the new tracking number, it would sit in that awaiting shipment state. We'll work it out, you shouldn't have a problem getting it by Friday.

Thanks again for your support.

George

[TomTomTuning]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

You can condition your seats as soon as you get your car if you wanted, it's never too early to start caring for the leather. Regarding the blue hue stains, you could remove them with a safe all purpose cleaner, like P21S Total Auto Wash, or you could use something like Leatherique Prestine Clean. I haven't compared Leatherique to Leather Master so I cannot provide any feedback comparing the two, but I can assure you that Leatherique has not let me down and is the choice of many high end professional detailers. If you go the Leatherique option, I'd recommend the full 2 step, at least once a year, ideally twice and Prestine Clean alone on alternating seasons.

I went with the Leatherique route. I love the way the seats have a new/matte finish, do you know if the Leatherique will make them shiny/glossy?

Just ordered a bunch of stuff from your site:
32oz Leatherique clean & Oil
303 High Tech Fabric Guard
303 Aerospace Protectant
Bucket w/ Grit Guard

I'm ordered the Aerospace protectant, in hope for something to just damp on a towel and clean interior surfaces (doors, dash, kick panels, center console, molding etc). I'm not looking for any shine/gloss (aka armor all look). Was this product a wise choice?

EDIT: Crap I knew i forgot something. A leather cleaning bush.

[rheemix]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

If we have everything in stock usually next day. Right now we have no back orders, so it should have shipped out already. If you want to PM me your order number I'll dig up the tracking and let you know the status. Sometimes if our warehouse had to delete a shipping label and didn't reupload the new tracking number, it would sit in that awaiting shipment state. We'll work it out, you shouldn't have a problem getting it by Friday.

Thanks again for your support.

George

PM sent. Thanks.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by TomTomTuning

I went with the Leatherique route. I love the way the seats have a new/matte finish, do you know if the Leatherique will make them shiny/glossy?

Just ordered a bunch of stuff from your site:
32oz Leatherique clean & Oil
303 High Tech Fabric Guard
303 Aerospace Protectant
Bucket w/ Grit Guard

I'm ordered the Aerospace protectant, in hope for something to just damp on a towel and clean interior surfaces (doors, dash, kick panels, center console, molding etc). I'm not looking for any shine/gloss (aka armor all look). Was this product a wise choice?

EDIT: Crap I knew i forgot something. A leather cleaning bush.

Leatherique leaves behind a matte / factory new finish, with 0 gloss. Be sure to follow the directions on this Leatherique tutorial for maximum results. 303 also leaves a matte finish when applied properly.

Thanks for your support, you'll love the way your leather turns out.

Originally Posted by rheemix

PM sent. Thanks.

Reply sent, sorry about the delay.

['10-X5-35d]

Hi.

Ready to buy my kit for my 2007 Sparkling Graphite Metallic 335i (and the old Civic I have around for testing purposes).
Some white mark near the edges of the car (trunk lip, etc.) and a swirl paradise.
As I've got ripped by a local retailer, decided to do it myself.
Don't want to buy just for the sake of buying.

- PC 7424XP kit + 5.5in. Orange, White and Black Lake Country CCS pads.
- A bunch of microfiber wiping and drying towels, grit guard, Optimum ONR and a good clay bar.

I was thinking on going with Menzerna product (and I'm always open for other options), but not sure about the combo to use.

1st - PO83 Super Intensive Polish, PO106FA Super Finish, APO88 Power Lock
2nd - PO203s Power Finish, PO106FA (Optionnal), APO88.
3rd - ??

Still debating also if the Power Gloss compound (POS34A) is required also, since the only time I went to a detailer, he wasn't (or didn't put the effort to be) able to remove hardly anything.

I want to make the order this weekend, but don't want to rush things and ending with products I don't need.

And NO, I won't do detailing in the near future , it's for personnal use.

Thanks.

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

203 106 and 85RD are a nice combo IMO for menzerna.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by 335i_4D

Hi.

Ready to buy my kit for my 2007 Sparkling Graphite Metallic 335i (and the old Civic I have around for testing purposes).
Some white mark near the edges of the car (trunk lip, etc.) and a swirl paradise.
As I've got ripped by a local retailer, decided to do it myself.
Don't want to buy just for the sake of buying.

- PC 7424XP kit + 5.5in. Orange, White and Black Lake Country CCS pads.
- A bunch of microfiber wiping and drying towels, grit guard, Optimum ONR and a good clay bar.

I was thinking on going with Menzerna product (and I'm always open for other options), but not sure about the combo to use.

1st - PO83 Super Intensive Polish, PO106FA Super Finish, APO88 Power Lock
2nd - PO203s Power Finish, PO106FA (Optionnal), APO88.
3rd - ??

Still debating also if the Power Gloss compound (POS34A) is required also, since the only time I went to a detailer, he wasn't (or didn't put the effort to be) able to remove hardly anything.

I want to make the order this weekend, but don't want to rush things and ending with products I don't need.

And NO, I won't do detailing in the near future , it's for personnal use.

Thanks.

Your best bet for a combo IMO if you want to stick with Menzerna is Power Finish PO203S followed by Menzerna PO85RD. This would bring out more depth and gloss than any of the combos you mentioned and will remove just about as many swirls. If you did need a deeper cutting polish, you could opt for Power Gloss or I'd recommend Meguiar's M105 instead as a deeper cutting polish.

I'd also encourage you to get the flat pads over the CCS pads. CCS pads have their downfalls compared to flat pads, but I know some people like them.

Power Lock and the rest of the products you mentioned all sound good.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

['10-X5-35d]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

IMO if you want to stick with Menzerna ...

Hi.
Like I said, I'm opened for options...
If they're better combos for my car, I don't have any problems taking something else.
I'm building the kit from ground up, that's why I ask the question to experts, as I would like to get a good kit 1st hand.

As for Meguiar's, is 95 too much or could it replace M105 ?

So, basically, what are my options ?


Thanks again.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by 335i_4D

Hi.
Like I said, I'm opened for options...
If they're better combos for my car, I don't have any problems taking something else.
I'm building the kit from ground up, that's why I ask the question to experts, as I would like to get a good kit 1st hand.

As for Meguiar's, is 95 too much or could it replace M105 ?

So, basically, what are my options ?

Thanks again.

Menzerna polishes use diminishing abrasive particles, meaning they start at one size and get smaller and smaller as you work the polish. The smaller the abrasives get the better the finish and gloss and depth. Menzerna designed these polishes to work with a high powered rotary buffer. While they do work on random orbitals, you end up missing out a little because something like a PC cannot fully break down a polish the same way a rotary buffer can.

The alternative is to use non-diminishing abrasive polishes, so that your level of cut an finish relies on the amount of pressure exerted more so than breaking down of the polishes. If you want more cut, you simply press harder, as you want to finish better, you let off. This is how the Meguiar's M105 and M205 combo are designed to work, which makes they very effective, even on a PC.

I'm not saying you necessarily have to change from the Menzerna to Meg's, Menzerna still yields great results with a PC and many can vouch for that. If you do opt for the Menzerna polishes, remember the smaller the pad you go with the more concentrated the power is and the better your results will be. My take on it is you'll get more cut and overall correction with the Meg's but the finishing abilities of say PO85RD are slightly better. The Meg's polishes will yield easier results if you take the time to read up on them a little, here's a great M105 / M205 how-to article.

You'd only need the M105 + M205 combo for great results. Actually you could look into this PC7424XP + Meg's Polishes Kit.

If you have any questions or if there's anything else I can help with let me know.

George

[normtrum]

Hi George. I haven't been on the forums for a long time, but I had a few questions about a new direction I'm thinking of taking.

'07 black saph 335i. Still looks great, since I've always got a lot of product on the car. In the past I've gone with Menzerna polishes after wash and clay, then Menz FMJ. I used to go with Natty blue post FMJ, but I liked the results of the FMJ so much I stopped the Natty. My only problem (like most others) is that the FMJ doesn't last very long.

I'm thinking of changing from FMJ to BlackFire Wet Diamond....or I've also considered the new Menz PLPS....after wash, clay, and slight imperfection removal with Menz polish...either "intensive" or "final" depending on the removal level. I have a Flex 3401 and various Lake Country pads.

Here's my questions:

Would you reccomend the BlackFire Wet or the Menz PLPS?
Do you think I should use a "cleaner wax" such as the one from Dodo Juice? (I've never used a "cleaner wax" after polishing.....but I'm thinking I should).
What would you think about using Clear Kote Carnuba Moose Wax after the sealant?
What is the cure time for the 2 sealants mentioned above? I would prob use 2-3 coats.
What is the cure time for the Moose Wax? how many coats?
Finally....what is the shelf life for Menzerna FMJ? I ask since I have a lot left, and I don't want it to go to waste.....probably use on my wife's car.

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Hi George. I haven't been on the forums for a long time, but I had a few questions about a new direction I'm thinking of taking.

'07 black saph 335i. Still looks great, since I've always got a lot of product on the car. In the past I've gone with Menzerna polishes after wash and clay, then Menz FMJ. I used to go with Natty blue post FMJ, but I liked the results of the FMJ so much I stopped the Natty. My only problem (like most others) is that the FMJ doesn't last very long.

I'm thinking of changing from FMJ to BlackFire Wet Diamond....or I've also considered the new Menz PLPS....after wash, clay, and slight imperfection removal with Menz polish...either "intensive" or "final" depending on the removal level. I have a Flex 3401 and various Lake Country pads.

Here's my questions:

Would you reccomend the BlackFire Wet or the Menz PLPS?
Do you think I should use a "cleaner wax" such as the one from Dodo Juice? (I've never used a "cleaner wax" after polishing.....but I'm thinking I should).
What would you think about using Clear Kote Carnuba Moose Wax after the sealant?
What is the cure time for the 2 sealants mentioned above? I would prob use 2-3 coats.
What is the cure time for the Moose Wax? how many coats?
Finally....what is the shelf life for Menzerna FMJ? I ask since I have a lot left, and I don't want it to go to waste.....probably use on my wife's car.

Thanks!

Hey normtrum, good to hear from you

If you want proven durability, go with the Blackfire Wet Diamond. The Menz Power Lock is still relatively new and there haven't been a ton of time to know exactly how long it'll last. They both have similar application and removal, both are slick and both look great. I just know the Wet Diamond has great durability as well, can't go wrong there.

I wouldn't recommend a cleaner wax prior to the sealant. The layer of wax coating could hinder how your sealant bonds to the paint. If anything you'd want to use something that is acrylic based, so it doesn't hinder the sealant bonding. Something like Chemical Guys Vertua Bond 408 or Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze would be my choices under the sealant.

I think you'd run into the same dilemma you did topping the NB over the FMJ, by going with Carnauba Moose Wax over BF Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock. I don't think you'll notice much added gloss and depth, consider those two sealants look stunning. You'd probably have to bump up to a higher priced wax to notice a significant difference, which at that point, may not be justifiable. You could try one of the Dodo Juice sample pots to test things out and assess for yourself.

General rule of thumb to follow is that sealants are 24 hours for optimal cure time between coats. Waxes are 12 - 24 hours typically. Blackfire states the cure time on Wet Diamond is only 8 hours though, but I still follow the general rule of thumb when I apply multiple coats or a coat of wax on top.

Shelf life of most auto detailing products when stored properly is around 5 years. Beyond that they may begin to break down and lose some of their potency, may not remove as easily, might smell a little different, etc. Usually products still work, but maybe not quite at 100%.

Let me know if that answers all of your questions and if you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

All the best,

George

[normtrum]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Hey normtrum, good to hear from you

If you want proven durability, go with the Blackfire Wet Diamond. The Menz Power Lock is still relatively new and there haven't been a ton of time to know exactly how long it'll last. They both have similar application and removal, both are slick and both look great. I just know the Wet Diamond has great durability as well, can't go wrong there.

I wouldn't recommend a cleaner wax prior to the sealant. The layer of wax coating could hinder how your sealant bonds to the paint. If anything you'd want to use something that is acrylic based, so it doesn't hinder the sealant bonding. Something like Chemical Guys Vertua Bond 408 or Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze would be my choices under the sealant.

I think you'd run into the same dilemma you did topping the NB over the FMJ, by going with Carnauba Moose Wax over BF Wet Diamond or Menzerna Power Lock. I don't think you'll notice much added gloss and depth, consider those two sealants look stunning. You'd probably have to bump up to a higher priced wax to notice a significant difference, which at that point, may not be justifiable. You could try one of the Dodo Juice sample pots to test things out and assess for yourself.

General rule of thumb to follow is that sealants are 24 hours for optimal cure time between coats. Waxes are 12 - 24 hours typically. Blackfire states the cure time on Wet Diamond is only 8 hours though, but I still follow the general rule of thumb when I apply multiple coats or a coat of wax on top.

Shelf life of most auto detailing products when stored properly is around 5 years. Beyond that they may begin to break down and lose some of their potency, may not remove as easily, might smell a little different, etc. Usually products still work, but maybe not quite at 100%.

Let me know if that answers all of your questions and if you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

All the best,

George

Got it....no to the cleaner wax. I will go with one of the 2 chemical guy products you mentioned sandwiched in between my polish and sealant (I will go with the Blackfire). I will also hold off on the wax.


Couple more questions for you: I have thrown out my Menz Auto shampoo....it was awful. What would you recommend for a wash solution that would help the Blackfire last? There are so many of them!

Also, I'm tired of reading all the reviews on MF detergents/cleaners....what do you prefer to use?

Last question...I think.....is there a backing plate for the flex that will allow me to use 4" pads? (for hard to reach areas only)Would the LC plate work?

[UncleWede]

George,

How long does 303 last? I'm torn between 32 and 128 oz. If I get teh bigger bottle and keep filling up the spray bottles, about how long do I have to use it all up? Little League is almost done, so I have people chomping at teh bit to turn in their Christmas gifts of a free exterior detail. 303 needed in probably a bigger size than 32, but just not sure if I will use all the 128.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Got it....no to the cleaner wax. I will go with one of the 2 chemical guy products you mentioned sandwiched in between my polish and sealant (I will go with the Blackfire). I will also hold off on the wax.

Couple more questions for you: I have thrown out my Menz Auto shampoo....it was awful. What would you recommend for a wash solution that would help the Blackfire last? There are so many of them!

Also, I'm tired of reading all the reviews on MF detergents/cleaners....what do you prefer to use?

Last question...I think.....is there a backing plate for the flex that will allow me to use 4" pads? (for hard to reach areas only)Would the LC plate work?

I was never a fan of the Menz shampoo either, hence why we discontinued it from our site. A great maintenance shampoo is Chemical Guys Glossworkz, I've been using this lately and it has yet to let me down. I also enjoy the two Dodo Juice shampoos, Sour Power and Born 2 be Mild, for maintenance but they can get pricey since the bottles are so small. Right now would be a good time to stock up on shampoo during our shampoo sale. Bang for the buck Maxi Suds II is a great one too for maintenance.

The best way to care for pads and towels... here's the secrete and never lets me down. Once your done with your wash step, empty one of your buckets (or two if you want to separate pads and towels) and fill it up with water and put some all purpose cleaner in it. The second you are done using a towel or pad, take it over and run it over a Grit Guard insert and let it soak in the APC solution. This helps get product residue out right from the get go before it has a chance to harden. After, your done detailing, simply wash them as you would, using either Tide Free or a MF detergent. This will give you the best results time after time and if you get into that habit, your towels and pads will last much longer. Here's an article on properly caring for your MF towels.

The LC backing plates won't work on the Flex, it's a proprietary backing plate unfortunately. I have seen an adapter floating around that uses a different system of pads but I'm not sure if that's still available or not.

Let me know if that answers all of your questions and if you have any more, please do not hesitate to ask.

Originally Posted by UncleWede

George,

How long does 303 last? I'm torn between 32 and 128 oz. If I get teh bigger bottle and keep filling up the spray bottles, about how long do I have to use it all up? Little League is almost done, so I have people chomping at teh bit to turn in their Christmas gifts of a free exterior detail. 303 needed in probably a bigger size than 32, but just not sure if I will use all the 128.

If you store the 303 Aerospace Protectant properly, I'd say you have a solid 5 - 7 years before it begins to lose it's potency. If you don't plan on using it up that quickly, then I'd say stick to the 32oz sizes.

Let us know how the details turn out!

George

[normtrum]

Thanks George - another question; is there any advantage of using the red LC "ultra fine" pad for the Blackfire sealant over the black LC pad I use for fmj. The reason I ask is I don't like the way the black pad absorbs so much product midway through sealant application. the red pad claims to be made in a way that it won't absorb so much....but is it gently enough for sealant?

Thanks again for all your help btw....I'm just about ready to empty my cart. Just need to figure out my pads.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Thanks George - another question; is there any advantage of using the red LC "ultra fine" pad for the Blackfire sealant over the black LC pad I use for fmj. The reason I ask is I don't like the way the black pad absorbs so much product midway through sealant application. the red pad claims to be made in a way that it won't absorb so much....but is it gently enough for sealant?

Thanks again for all your help btw....I'm just about ready to empty my cart. Just need to figure out my pads.

The red LC is pretty much the same as our blue LC pad. I haven't had any problems applying a sealant with it, although I typically apply my LSPs by hand, sick of using the buffer by that point If anything though, the blue and red pads should absorb more product than the black since it's more porous (higher PPI). You can give a mist of quick detailer to the pad to help keep the product on the surface of the pad rather than get absorbed in.

Hope this helps. Be sure to let me know how everything turns out with the new goodies.

George

[normtrum]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

The red LC is pretty much the same as our blue LC pad. I haven't had any problems applying a sealant with it, although I typically apply my LSPs by hand, sick of using the buffer by that point If anything though, the blue and red pads should absorb more product than the black since it's more porous (higher PPI). You can give a mist of quick detailer to the pad to help keep the product on the surface of the pad rather than get absorbed in.

Hope this helps. Be sure to let me know how everything turns out with the new goodies.

George

Good tip....thanks! I will stick with my black pad....i've still got a couple, and I will try the qd misting! I'll let you know how it goes....I'll prob post some more pics.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by normtrum

Good tip....thanks! I will stick with my black pad....i've still got a couple, and I will try the qd misting! I'll let you know how it goes....I'll prob post some more pics.

Looking forward to seeing how things turn out. Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

George

[rheemix]

Hi George,

There were some heavy swirls on one part of my hood, so I applied heavy pressure (probably more than I should have) with my PC with orange pad using M105. It got rid of all the swirls, but it created some haze, which I though was somewhat normal and I could get rid of it using M205 with white pad. Well, I can't seem to get rid of it! I tried different speed, different pressure, many paths, and I can still see the checker pattern that I went through with 105. I don't think I'm creating new ones with 205. My orange pad was already in the wash bucket, so I didn't get to try to run M105 with orange pad again, but I guess I can try that. I hope I didn't damage the paint too bad by applying too much pressure the first time. What do you think happened?

Thank you.

[IRIS335I]

Hi I have a 2007 335I and need to clean the silver around the windows. This is not real aluminum?, so Mothers does not work. Do you know any products that do the trick to shine up this spotty area?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rheemix

Hi George,

There were some heavy swirls on one part of my hood, so I applied heavy pressure (probably more than I should have) with my PC with orange pad using M105. It got rid of all the swirls, but it created some haze, which I though was somewhat normal and I could get rid of it using M205 with white pad. Well, I can't seem to get rid of it! I tried different speed, different pressure, many paths, and I can still see the checker pattern that I went through with 105. I don't think I'm creating new ones with 205. My orange pad was already in the wash bucket, so I didn't get to try to run M105 with orange pad again, but I guess I can try that. I hope I didn't damage the paint too bad by applying too much pressure the first time. What do you think happened?

Thank you.

I'd recommend going over the car again with the M105 and orange and as your finishing working it, let up on the pressure for a couple of passes. If need be, even use M105 on a white pad, then M205 on white and/or black. Using some pressure and letting up at the end with each pass. Work in smaller areas as well to ensure maximum results.

Chances are you just applied too much pressure and the step you used after wasn't correcting enough to remove the hazing / marring created. Hope this helps, keep us posted how things turn out.

Originally Posted by IRIS335I

Hi I have a 2007 335I and need to clean the silver around the windows. This is not real aluminum?, so Mothers does not work. Do you know any products that do the trick to shine up this spotty area?

I usually turn to an all in one polish for these areas. Something like Klasse All In One is a good option. If it's simply oxidized, this would help. If there are swirls / marring / etc. you'd need to use an abrasive product to remove them.

[uabimmer]

hey George,
I have a question about a carpet stain I came across the other day.
It seems to be some sort of glue or sap solidified into the carpet.

I've tried CG Fabric Clean, CG grime reaper, even a little Aircraft Paint remover.
But nothing seems to work (aircraft paint remover makes it mushy & i think it would damage the carpet if i use it on a larger scale)

What would you recommend for this nasty stain?

Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance

here are some pics