E90Post
 


TireRack
 
BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wash, Wax, Detailing and Cosmetic protection/repairs > Ask a Professional Detailer...



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      06-18-2010, 01:58 PM   #1145
MAZINGER
Lieutenant
 
Drives: 2008 E92 335i
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Canada

Posts: 506
iTrader: (2)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Looks solid, although you won't get much of the cleaning benefits of Klasse at those low speeds. You have the order and proper products all lined up, should be pleased with the results! Keep us posted how everything turns out for you.
George,

The guy who sold me the Power Lock told me that I would not need to apply the Collinite 845 after the Power Lock in summer. It would overkill the products of each other. Is this true?

He told me to apply Power Lock during summer period and Collinite during winter.

Can you advice?

Thanks.
MAZINGER is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2010, 09:46 AM   #1146
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAZINGER View Post
George,

The guy who sold me the Power Lock told me that I would not need to apply the Collinite 845 after the Power Lock in summer. It would overkill the products of each other. Is this true?

He told me to apply Power Lock during summer period and Collinite during winter.

Can you advice?

Thanks.
Collinite is more of a durable / protector wax instead of a deep wet glossy looking wax that most people will top a sealant with. Adding the coat of 845 on top could help enhance the protection and perhaps look, although Power Look looks outstanding. You typically end up with the look of the final layer you apply, so if the Power Lock looks better than the 845 you could mute the finish a little. If you were looking for more depth and gloss, I would have chosen another wax...
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2010, 12:03 PM   #1147
spdy330
Major General
 
spdy330's Avatar
 
Drives: 05 Tundra, 11 M3, 08 Odyssey
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chino, CA

Posts: 5,957
iTrader: (159)

Garage List
Send a message via AIM to spdy330 Send a message via Yahoo to spdy330
This question may be in the threads somewhere however looking through 53 pages will take forever.

How do you get rid of hard water spots on the windows and body of your car? Thank you!
__________________
- 2006 E90 330i TiAG retired.
- 2011.75 E90 M3 - BMW Performance Exhaust, BMW Performance Grills, Lux H8 V3, Reflector delete Euro style, Ceramic Tint 58%, Brembo 380mm BBK, V1 with custom multi-color display by www.Radar-Mirror.com - custom radar mount by www.performancepackage.com.
spdy330 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-19-2010, 03:02 PM   #1148
crazydrummer
Captain
 
crazydrummer's Avatar
 
Drives: 335i 08
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: arkansas

Posts: 670
iTrader: (13)

Quick question here. If i'm about to do a full detail and i don't completly stip all the old wax/ sealent off could this mess up anything? Or will i just come off when i start polishing anyways?
crazydrummer is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
      06-20-2010, 12:20 PM   #1149
Dackz
Hates Speed Limits
 
Drives: E92 335i
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern CO

Posts: 2,585
iTrader: (4)

George,

Had this posted in the forum but 70+ views and no replies so I figured Id come to you.

I went to work today and stripped the car with CG citrus, then I clayed it and used the dodo juice lube (that stuff is slick as snot, its awesome), then I went to work and hit Megs 105 on an orange pad with a PC7424 then I hit it with 205 on a white pad over the top.

I can still see some scratches/swirls, no matter what I do, there are some that are there, but I have to be at a great angle and my lightstand was at the right spot to see them, so are those never going away basically? I took the 105/orange and did a 2x2' area 3-4 times then hit it 2 times with the 205/white and it dulled them down and the shine was GREAT but the scratches/swirls are still there.

Also, when I took it out after my polish steps to wash it before sealant, some of the polish was still there and it dried up pretty quick, but most of it came off with the Optimum car wash. I dont have anywhere I can wash the car but in the sun, just no way around it at my house. How do you buff the polish off better? Should I have a bottle of IPA and spray it down next time RIGHT after hitting an area and buffing it out with my microfiber (the plush one with the 2 diff naps on both sides). Or is there a way to hit it with the PC and pull most of it out? I just buffed it out with the micro and then went on to next section.

Oh, after my wash, I saw that there was an 'arcing' layer of what looked liked swirls or something that was vertical and when I walked from side to side on the hood, it moved the opposite direction and in the arcing motion. Are those swirls? What can take those out, since I hit it with 105/205 and said pads above.

Car is now sealed though, BFWD, it LOOKS great, in direct sun you cant see anything wrong, but lets say when in the early early AM sun or LATE PM sun, at the right angle, you can see them. Direct sunlight, it looks flawless. Hope that helps.
Dackz is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-20-2010, 12:35 PM   #1150
Ripper12
New Member
 
Drives: BSM, 2011 e92 m-sport
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Fernando, CA.

Posts: 27
iTrader: (0)

New car detail

How long does a new cars paint/clear need to cure before you can give it a complete polish & sealant?? Or is it competely cured a month after the car is built?

Is the any AIO, cleaners, polishes, sealant or waxes that you can or cannot use.
Ripper12 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-20-2010, 03:21 PM   #1151
Weaselboy
Major
 
Weaselboy's Avatar
 
Drives: 2012 335i F30 Sedan
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SoCal USA

Posts: 1,089
iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper12 View Post
How long does a new cars paint/clear need to cure before you can give it a complete polish & sealant?? Or is it competely cured a month after the car is built?

Is the any AIO, cleaners, polishes, sealant or waxes that you can or cannot use.
Any modern vehicle has the paint fully cured before it gets to you. No need to worry about this.
Weaselboy is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-20-2010, 08:46 PM   #1152
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by spdy330 View Post
This question may be in the threads somewhere however looking through 53 pages will take forever.

How do you get rid of hard water spots on the windows and body of your car? Thank you!
If there are mineral deposits on your glass or paint, the steps I would take would be the following:

First try water and distilled white vinegar this would remove any calcium and mineral deposits that are just sitting on the surface.

If that doesn't work I'd try something like Glass Science Glass Scrub for the glass or Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover for the paint.

Beyond the chemical cleaners then you'll have to turn to some abrasive measure to put a dent in the etched water spots. You always want to start with the least aggressive approach and work more aggressive as needed. For your paint, something like Meguiar's M205 would be a nice starting point. For the glass, you could go with the Lake Country Glass Polishing Kit, that should do the trick, both require a buffer for optimal results.

If you get that far and the water spots are still there, let me know and we can come up with the next aggressive steps for you to take.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crazydrummer View Post
Quick question here. If i'm about to do a full detail and i don't completly stip all the old wax/ sealent off could this mess up anything? Or will i just come off when i start polishing anyways?
It wouldn't really "mess up anything" but what you may experience is the polishes could act a little different than if there were a completely bare surface. You'll be using the first part of the polishing to break down the sealant rather than to correct your paint. The difference may not be noticeable to you if you haven't polished a ton but stripping previous coats will ensure your polishes work the way they are designed to and give you the absolute best results, even if it's only a small percentage better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackz View Post
George,

Had this posted in the forum but 70+ views and no replies so I figured Id come to you.

I went to work today and stripped the car with CG citrus, then I clayed it and used the dodo juice lube (that stuff is slick as snot, its awesome), then I went to work and hit Megs 105 on an orange pad with a PC7424 then I hit it with 205 on a white pad over the top.

I can still see some scratches/swirls, no matter what I do, there are some that are there, but I have to be at a great angle and my lightstand was at the right spot to see them, so are those never going away basically? I took the 105/orange and did a 2x2' area 3-4 times then hit it 2 times with the 205/white and it dulled them down and the shine was GREAT but the scratches/swirls are still there.

Also, when I took it out after my polish steps to wash it before sealant, some of the polish was still there and it dried up pretty quick, but most of it came off with the Optimum car wash. I dont have anywhere I can wash the car but in the sun, just no way around it at my house. How do you buff the polish off better? Should I have a bottle of IPA and spray it down next time RIGHT after hitting an area and buffing it out with my microfiber (the plush one with the 2 diff naps on both sides). Or is there a way to hit it with the PC and pull most of it out? I just buffed it out with the micro and then went on to next section.

Oh, after my wash, I saw that there was an 'arcing' layer of what looked liked swirls or something that was vertical and when I walked from side to side on the hood, it moved the opposite direction and in the arcing motion. Are those swirls? What can take those out, since I hit it with 105/205 and said pads above.

Car is now sealed though, BFWD, it LOOKS great, in direct sun you cant see anything wrong, but lets say when in the early early AM sun or LATE PM sun, at the right angle, you can see them. Direct sunlight, it looks flawless. Hope that helps.
The imperfections that you aren't able to remove may require more bit than what M105 / orange / PC could offer. This is where professionals turn to rotary buffers or perform light wet sands if they are that bad (usually you can correct with polishing in most cases though). The PC does have it's limits but it's a great tool for enthusiasts.

For the stubborn polish remains, yes a bottle of IPA after polishing should do the trick, or simply give it another rewash with a stripping shampoo. Either should loosen remaining polish and remove any residue or oils left on the paint.

The arching swirls you are describing, is it possible you added them after polishing, during the drying process of the 2nd wash? That would be my first guess, do you remember drying the vehicle using that same arch? Perhaps your drying towel was slightly contaminated.

Do you have any pictures of the imperfections?

My advice would be to try to properly maintain your car and keep it as is and in another few months give it another go, unless your itching to try something sooner. I just ordered some new pads that go with the PC and M105 that offer some excellent correction (more than the orange pads) and were designed specifically for the PC / M105 combo.

Hope this helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper12 View Post
How long does a new cars paint/clear need to cure before you can give it a complete polish & sealant?? Or is it competely cured a month after the car is built?

Is the any AIO, cleaners, polishes, sealant or waxes that you can or cannot use.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaselboy View Post
Any modern vehicle has the paint fully cured before it gets to you. No need to worry about this.
+1 You'll be good to go once you receive it from the dealership.

Let me know what else I can help with.
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-20-2010, 09:13 PM   #1153
spdy330
Major General
 
spdy330's Avatar
 
Drives: 05 Tundra, 11 M3, 08 Odyssey
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Chino, CA

Posts: 5,957
iTrader: (159)

Garage List
Send a message via AIM to spdy330 Send a message via Yahoo to spdy330
Thank you. I will give it a shot.
__________________
- 2006 E90 330i TiAG retired.
- 2011.75 E90 M3 - BMW Performance Exhaust, BMW Performance Grills, Lux H8 V3, Reflector delete Euro style, Ceramic Tint 58%, Brembo 380mm BBK, V1 with custom multi-color display by www.Radar-Mirror.com - custom radar mount by www.performancepackage.com.
spdy330 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-20-2010, 10:57 PM   #1154
Dackz
Hates Speed Limits
 
Drives: E92 335i
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern CO

Posts: 2,585
iTrader: (4)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
If there are mineral deposits on your glass or paint, the steps I would take would be the following:

First try water and distilled white vinegar this would remove any calcium and mineral deposits that are just sitting on the surface.

If that doesn't work I'd try something like Glass Science Glass Scrub for the glass or Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover for the paint.

Beyond the chemical cleaners then you'll have to turn to some abrasive measure to put a dent in the etched water spots. You always want to start with the least aggressive approach and work more aggressive as needed. For your paint, something like Meguiar's M205 would be a nice starting point. For the glass, you could go with the Lake Country Glass Polishing Kit, that should do the trick, both require a buffer for optimal results.

If you get that far and the water spots are still there, let me know and we can come up with the next aggressive steps for you to take.



It wouldn't really "mess up anything" but what you may experience is the polishes could act a little different than if there were a completely bare surface. You'll be using the first part of the polishing to break down the sealant rather than to correct your paint. The difference may not be noticeable to you if you haven't polished a ton but stripping previous coats will ensure your polishes work the way they are designed to and give you the absolute best results, even if it's only a small percentage better.



The imperfections that you aren't able to remove may require more bit than what M105 / orange / PC could offer. This is where professionals turn to rotary buffers or perform light wet sands if they are that bad (usually you can correct with polishing in most cases though). The PC does have it's limits but it's a great tool for enthusiasts.

For the stubborn polish remains, yes a bottle of IPA after polishing should do the trick, or simply give it another rewash with a stripping shampoo. Either should loosen remaining polish and remove any residue or oils left on the paint.

The arching swirls you are describing, is it possible you added them after polishing, during the drying process of the 2nd wash? That would be my first guess, do you remember drying the vehicle using that same arch? Perhaps your drying towel was slightly contaminated.

Do you have any pictures of the imperfections?

My advice would be to try to properly maintain your car and keep it as is and in another few months give it another go, unless your itching to try something sooner. I just ordered some new pads that go with the PC and M105 that offer some excellent correction (more than the orange pads) and were designed specifically for the PC / M105 combo.

Hope this helps.





+1 You'll be good to go once you receive it from the dealership.

Let me know what else I can help with.

Ill do my best to get a pic tomorrow. I dont think it would have been there from a contaminated towel though. I sheeted it off (that method works amazingly actually) but when I dried it, I just took the towel and gently drug it across like always. I will do my best to take some pics tomorrow. Its weird though, I think it was there before though, but it definetly is not a hologram or buffer trail, that is for sure.

All the stuff worked great though, I thank you for your suggestions. Ill get some pics tomorrow, of the finished product. Whatever wasnt fixed was for sure user error as it was my first time. I will leave it as is until most likely next year, and do my detail just before going to Mfest in Vegas. I am sure I can maintain it well until then. And in the meantime, I will do a couple friends cars to practice on, haha. Theirs, are MUCH worse then mine ever could and will be. So that willl be very good practice.
Dackz is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-21-2010, 01:45 PM   #1155
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by spdy330 View Post
Thank you. I will give it a shot.
Keep us posted how things turn out

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dackz View Post
Ill do my best to get a pic tomorrow. I dont think it would have been there from a contaminated towel though. I sheeted it off (that method works amazingly actually) but when I dried it, I just took the towel and gently drug it across like always. I will do my best to take some pics tomorrow. Its weird though, I think it was there before though, but it definetly is not a hologram or buffer trail, that is for sure.

All the stuff worked great though, I thank you for your suggestions. Ill get some pics tomorrow, of the finished product. Whatever wasnt fixed was for sure user error as it was my first time. I will leave it as is until most likely next year, and do my detail just before going to Mfest in Vegas. I am sure I can maintain it well until then. And in the meantime, I will do a couple friends cars to practice on, haha. Theirs, are MUCH worse then mine ever could and will be. So that willl be very good practice.
Glad to hear it. For your first time, it sounds like the detail was a great success. Good idea to practice on your friends cars, it'll certainly help when you go back to do yours again.

If there's anything else I can help with, let me know. Thanks again for your support.

George
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-27-2010, 01:17 PM   #1156
1QuikWS6
No 55mph
 
1QuikWS6's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 E92 328iX N51 3-Stage
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Blitzburgh, PA

Posts: 4,308
iTrader: (80)

Garage List
George-

I just recently bought the Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant & Midnight Sun Caruba Wax from you to use on my new Space Gray E92. Applied the sealant, waited at leats 8hrs, applied a coat of wax, waited 8hrs, applied 2nd coat of wax. I must say I didn't think it was possible to have new paint look even better!

Based on these results, I decided to do my Black WS6 Trans Am also - thinking that it should look even better on black paint.

This car is our show car, driven only on nice weekends, stored in heated/Air conditioned garage under cover rest of time.

As you know, no matter how well you try to take care of black - it always gets swirl marks that show up in direct sunlight Previously I have been using PC 7424 with either Menzerna Final Polish II or Intensive Polish (based on amount/degree of swirl marks), followed by Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze and then finally Formula 113.

The 113 gave the car a great look, doesn't leave white residue, and the entire car can be waxed before wiping off - even in direct sunlight (which I never did neway), but it also leaves an oily/slippery surface that shows finger marks immediately.

So to make a long story short - I already had the car prepped with Menzerna Final Polish, applied coat of new Blackfire carnuba, waited 8hrs, then applied another coat. The finish is beautiful and deep gloss (heck my wife could use the car as a mirror to apply her makeup!)

But now I find that I might want to apply the BF Diamond Sealant to utilize it's UV & infared paint protection.

Can I simply apply the BF Diamond Sealant over the new coats of BF wax and then go back and rewax? or do I have to remove the exisitng new coats of BF wax first?

Thanx!

-Jay-
__________________
2009 328ix E92//SGM//ACS Roof Spoiler//MTech Aero Lip+Trunk Spoiler//M3 Side Skirts//CF Roundels+Grilles//M3 Novillo Interior//Perf Shift Lever+Boot//MPerf DCT Wheel//M3 GT3 eBrake Handle+Boot//ACS Pedals//M3 Mirrors//LCI Tails w/LUX Rev//DTEC V7 AE+MTec 6000K D1S+HPB HID 6000K Fogs//HPB LED Interior//RPI Scoops//CF Euro Airbox+Underhood Hsgs//K&N//BMW PE//MTech Rear Bumper-iS Sport Diffuser//CF Strut Brace//Vishnu OFT//BMW 193M's+Kumho 4X
1QuikWS6 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-27-2010, 03:06 PM   #1157
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
George-

I just recently bought the Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant & Midnight Sun Caruba Wax from you to use on my new Space Gray E92. Applied the sealant, waited at leats 8hrs, applied a coat of wax, waited 8hrs, applied 2nd coat of wax. I must say I didn't think it was possible to have new paint look even better!

Based on these results, I decided to do my Black WS6 Trans Am also - thinking that it should look even better on black paint.

This car is our show car, driven only on nice weekends, stored in heated/Air conditioned garage under cover rest of time.

As you know, no matter how well you try to take care of black - it always gets swirl marks that show up in direct sunlight Previously I have been using PC 7424 with either Menzerna Final Polish II or Intensive Polish (based on amount/degree of swirl marks), followed by Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze and then finally Formula 113.

The 113 gave the car a great look, doesn't leave white residue, and the entire car can be waxed before wiping off - even in direct sunlight (which I never did neway), but it also leaves an oily/slippery surface that shows finger marks immediately.

So to make a long story short - I already had the car prepped with Menzerna Final Polish, applied coat of new Blackfire carnuba, waited 8hrs, then applied another coat. The finish is beautiful and deep gloss (heck my wife could use the car as a mirror to apply her makeup!)

But now I find that I might want to apply the BF Diamond Sealant to utilize it's UV & infared paint protection.

Can I simply apply the BF Diamond Sealant over the new coats of BF wax and then go back and rewax? or do I have to remove the exisitng new coats of BF wax first?

Thanx!

-Jay-
Hey Jay, good question. If you wanted the benefit of the underlying protection from the sealant under the wax, you'd have to strip off the coats of wax and start over. What I'd do is simply wait a few weeks for the wax starts to dwindle down on protection and strip it so your hard work doesn't go wasted.

When you apply the BF sealant, let that cure for 8 - 24 hours before topping it with the BF wax. Then any additional layers another 8 - 24 hours.

Snap some pics if you have some time, I bet it looks stunning!

Cheers,

George
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-27-2010, 04:16 PM   #1158
1QuikWS6
No 55mph
 
1QuikWS6's Avatar
 
Drives: 09 E92 328iX N51 3-Stage
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Blitzburgh, PA

Posts: 4,308
iTrader: (80)

Garage List
Thanks!

As much as I use this car, and it sees the outside, I'll have to wait a year for the wax to wear off!

I'll b taking new pics soon and post them up
__________________
2009 328ix E92//SGM//ACS Roof Spoiler//MTech Aero Lip+Trunk Spoiler//M3 Side Skirts//CF Roundels+Grilles//M3 Novillo Interior//Perf Shift Lever+Boot//MPerf DCT Wheel//M3 GT3 eBrake Handle+Boot//ACS Pedals//M3 Mirrors//LCI Tails w/LUX Rev//DTEC V7 AE+MTec 6000K D1S+HPB HID 6000K Fogs//HPB LED Interior//RPI Scoops//CF Euro Airbox+Underhood Hsgs//K&N//BMW PE//MTech Rear Bumper-iS Sport Diffuser//CF Strut Brace//Vishnu OFT//BMW 193M's+Kumho 4X
1QuikWS6 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      06-29-2010, 09:00 AM   #1159
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1QuikWS6 View Post
Thanks!

As much as I use this car, and it sees the outside, I'll have to wait a year for the wax to wear off!

I'll b taking new pics soon and post them up
Haha, sounds good, looking forward to seeing some
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      07-04-2010, 11:54 AM   #1160
Ripper12
New Member
 
Drives: BSM, 2011 e92 m-sport
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: San Fernando, CA.

Posts: 27
iTrader: (0)

Taping And sealants

What do you tape off for polishing and do you take the tape off when you apply sealant using a PC machine?

Is it OK get apply sealant on headlights, trim etc with the buffer?
Ripper12 is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      07-05-2010, 11:27 AM   #1161
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper12 View Post
What do you tape off for polishing and do you take the tape off when you apply sealant using a PC machine?

Is it OK get apply sealant on headlights, trim etc with the buffer?
I'll usually only tape off for polishing, then rewash to ensure you remove polishing residue, dust, oils and tape residue. Most modern sealants are safe to get on trim as long as they are wiped off immediately. I'd recommend sealant your headlights, emblems, chrome, painted trim, but vinyl trim I'll treat differently with a UV protectant.

Hope that helps.
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      07-06-2010, 10:27 AM   #1162
ajfcpajd
New Member
 
Drives: 2013 BMW 335is
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: St. Louis, MO

Posts: 20
iTrader: (0)

I have a question I can't seem to get a consistent answer to. I had some minor repair and paint work done to my front bumper. How long do I need to wait before I have the car washed? I was told I could do it myself but not to use a car wash for at least 2-3 weeks. someone else said a month. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
ajfcpajd is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      07-06-2010, 11:37 AM   #1163
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajfcpajd View Post
I have a question I can't seem to get a consistent answer to. I had some minor repair and paint work done to my front bumper. How long do I need to wait before I have the car washed? I was told I could do it myself but not to use a car wash for at least 2-3 weeks. someone else said a month. any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
You can wash the car right away. What you shouldn't do is seal it with a sealant or wax for around 90 days. The shop that did the work would be able to give you the best estimate on time. If they were able to bake the piece, it may be 30 days or less. It varies from shop to shop, the technology used, the temperature outside, etc.

You can wash, clay, polish, glaze, quick detail now, but leave it unprotected so the paint can cure properly.

Hope this helps.
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      07-14-2010, 10:45 PM   #1164
E90aL
Banned
 
Drives: n52
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arcadia

Posts: 324
iTrader: (4)

how do you remove thick coats of armor all (plastic/rubber/vinyl) protectant?
E90aL is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      07-15-2010, 08:54 AM   #1165
Detailed Image
BimmerPost Supporting Vendor

 
Detailed Image's Avatar
 
Drives: Detailed by Detailed Image
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Albany, NY

Posts: 3,401
iTrader: (5)

Quote:
Originally Posted by slEEpy_aL View Post
how do you remove thick coats of armor all (plastic/rubber/vinyl) protectant?
I'd use an all purpose cleaner. Something like P21S Total Auto Wash, Meguiar's D103 APC+, Optimum Power Clean... any one of those at the proper dilution ratio.

Then follow up with a thin coat of a quality UV protectant. I like 303 Aerospace Protectant or 1Z Cockpit Premium
Detailed Image is offline   United_States
0
Reply With Quote
      07-17-2010, 10:32 PM   #1166
pigbat
Private First Class
 
pigbat's Avatar
 
Drives: 330i Electric Red
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Nebraska

Posts: 133
iTrader: (1)

I've been thinking about moving away from Zaino to Blackfire Wet Diamond sealer or the Opti-seal. I only have black cars in the family so I was wondering how the Dodo products layer on these? Should I just stay with the BF midnight Sun?

Also, do I need to keep both Dodo and BF waxes away from trim pieces?
pigbat is offline  
0
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:07 AM.




e90post
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST