[rtjones]

George, I'd like to buy the Porter Cable random orbital polisher, but don't know if I want/need model 7424 or 7336. I believe the difference is in plate size? Is that right? Which one do you recommend, and why? Thank you.

[JIMD1709]

I have an Alpine White coupe. There was bird crap(looked orange) on the hood, most of it came of, but it stained my paint. After 5 applications of scratch-x, it looks alot better, but still there. Any ideas besides a machine?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rtjones

George, I'd like to buy the Porter Cable random orbital polisher, but don't know if I want/need model 7424 or 7336. I believe the difference is in plate size? Is that right? Which one do you recommend, and why? Thank you.

As far as the guts are concerned, they are the exact same unit. The 7336 comes with a sanding plate which I believe is hook & loop in design. I'd recommend changing that to a flexible velcro backing plate which is more geared towards detailers. The 7336 may come with the 6" counter weight vs. the 5" counter weight which basically helps slightly reduce vibration. You won't be disappointed with either unit, choosing the proper backing plate / pad combination is much more important than deciding between 7424 and 7336.

Let us know what you end up going with.

Originally Posted by JIMD1709

I have an Alpine White coupe. There was bird crap(looked orange) on the hood, most of it came of, but it stained my paint. After 5 applications of scratch-x, it looks alot better, but still there. Any ideas besides a machine?

ScratchX is about as aggressive of a polish that I'll recommend by hand. If you do not wish to tackle the job with a quality buffer, such as the Porter Cable, I'd say continue using the ScratchX with multiple applications until desired results are achieved. The buffer and more aggressive polish / pad combination will get you there much faster and save your arm from needed elbow grease and exhaustion.

Let us know how you make out.

George

[rtjones]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

As far as the guts are concerned, they are the exact same unit. The 7336 comes with a sanding plate which I believe is hook & loop in design. I'd recommend changing that to a flexible velcro backing plate which is more geared towards detailers. The 7336 may come with the 6" counter weight vs. the 5" counter weight which basically helps slightly reduce vibration. You won't be disappointed with either unit, choosing the proper backing plate / pad combination is much more important than deciding between 7424 and 7336.

Let us know what you end up going with.

George, do you have all the gear at your store? If so, can you please recommend all the backing plates, pads, etc. I need? Re: the use of an orbital polisher, my routine twice a year is a coat of Zaino Z5 and then a coat of Z2, and then once yearly, a very light polish (Z-AIO). I'd also like to have the necessary pads to use Z-PC once, as my '99 has some very minor swirls (years of abuse at the local car wash - doh!!). The discount code is "E90 Forum" or something? It seems you recommend the 7336? Thank you.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rtjones

George, do you have all the gear at your store? If so, can you please recommend all the backing plates, pads, etc. I need? Re: the use of an orbital polisher, my routine twice a year is a coat of Zaino Z5 and then a coat of Z2, and then once yearly, a very light polish (Z-AIO). I'd also like to have the necessary pads to use Z-PC once, as my '99 has some very minor swirls (years of abuse at the local car wash - doh!!). The discount code is "E90 Forum" or something? It seems you recommend the 7336? Thank you.

Sure rtjones. I have everything to get you up and running with the PC 7424. I have no preference between the 7336 and 7424 because it is the same unit and you end up changing the backing plate anyways. I haven't found much of a difference between the 5" counter weight and the 6" counter weight, at higher speed settings there is still considerable vibration.

Here's a sample package to consider:

Porter Cable 7424
Pad Kit #2, which gives you 4 pads, the proper backing plate, and 3 packets of cleaning solution for the pads.

For your needs, I'd recommend the following pad and product combinations:

Z-2 - Blue Lake Country Pad
Z-5 - Blue Lake Country Pad
Z-AIO - White (more aggressive) or Black (less aggressive) Lake Country Pad
Z-PC - White Lake Country Pad

Since the kit has different pads that you would need, just make a note in the comment box prior to checking out which pads you would like included with your kit. If you did want to add a 6" counter weight to reduce some of the vibration, here is the link to the 6" counter weight.

The discount code is e90post and is entered where it says Discount Code when you enter in your credit card information. This will give you 10% off the pad kit (discount codes do not apply to the buffers).

Let me know if you need a hand selecting anything else.

George

[rtjones]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Sure rtjones. I have everything to get you up and running with the PC 7424. I have no preference between the 7336 and 7424 because it is the same unit and you end up changing the backing plate anyways. I haven't found much of a difference between the 5" counter weight and the 6" counter weight, at higher speed settings there is still considerable vibration.

Here's a sample package to consider:

Porter Cable 7424
Pad Kit #2, which gives you 4 pads, the proper backing plate, and 3 packets of cleaning solution for the pads.

For your needs, I'd recommend the following pad and product combinations:

Z-2 - Blue Lake Country Pad
Z-5 - Blue Lake Country Pad
Z-AIO - White (more aggressive) or Black (less aggressive) Lake Country Pad
Z-PC - White Lake Country Pad

Since the kit has different pads that you would need, just make a note in the comment box prior to checking out which pads you would like included with your kit. If you did want to add a 6" counter weight to reduce some of the vibration, here is the link to the 6" counter weight.

The discount code is e90post and is entered where it says Discount Code when you enter in your credit card information. This will give you 10% off the pad kit (discount codes do not apply to the buffers).

Let me know if you need a hand selecting anything else.

George

Jeez, I just noticed the discount code is in your signature. (!!)

Thanks for your suggestions. I wish I had bought this before I detailed my '99, but I had just learned of all the steps, process, etc., and was eager to begin.

[rtjones]

George, one other question, please.

I just picked up some clay at Kragen's, but they carried only a Mother's kit of clay, lube spray, and a product they call "Carnauba Cleaner Wax". I'm using the Zaino products on my cars. Is this Mother's version of Zaino's AIO? Can I integrate it into my Zaino products? Not sure if I can use it, or give it to a neighbor.

Thanks,
Ron

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by rtjones

George, one other question, please.

I just picked up some clay at Kragen's, but they carried only a Mother's kit of clay, lube spray, and a product they call "Carnauba Cleaner Wax". I'm using the Zaino products on my cars. Is this Mother's version of Zaino's AIO? Can I integrate it into my Zaino products? Not sure if I can use it, or give it to a neighbor.

Thanks,
Ron

Give it to a neighbor, cleaner waxes will strip underlying protection and add a coat of their own, similar to Z-AIO, but that offers more protection than a carnauba wax. The Zaino is a much better product to have on your paint IMO.

George

[rtjones]

Will do. Thanks. IMO, the Mother's clay is not nearly as good as the Clay Magic I first used. The Mother's clay falls apart, and doesn't seem to pick up nearly as many contaminants/particles.

[sapperelite]

George,

With all my questions for you, I should start paying you a fee for advice. I just returned after leaving my car sit for over a month and found some distressing swirls in my clearcoat. I was exceptionally careful in washing the car and can say, almost without a doubt that I did not put them there. My guess is that some admirer ran their hand across the dust while it was parked. I am using the Jeff Werkstadt product line as a cleaner and sealant for the car but I am guessing I will need a polish to take out the hairline swirling on the clearcoat? Can I apply a polish by hand that will remove the swirling? I've tried using a transformer on some products similar here and because of the cycles per second, the equipment didn't work properly even with a transformer. Last question, you were mentioning Zaino, do you carry it? Thanks again for all your help George,

AJ

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by sapperelite

George,

With all my questions for you, I should start paying you a fee for advice. I just returned after leaving my car sit for over a month and found some distressing swirls in my clearcoat. I was exceptionally careful in washing the car and can say, almost without a doubt that I did not put them there. My guess is that some admirer ran their hand across the dust while it was parked. I am using the Jeff Werkstadt product line as a cleaner and sealant for the car but I am guessing I will need a polish to take out the hairline swirling on the clearcoat? Can I apply a polish by hand that will remove the swirling? I've tried using a transformer on some products similar here and because of the cycles per second, the equipment didn't work properly even with a transformer. Last question, you were mentioning Zaino, do you carry it? Thanks again for all your help George,

AJ

AJ,

Yes you are right, in order to take care of the swirling, you're going to need an abrasive polish. If you are tackling it by hand, consider something like Meguiar's ScratchX which hopefully you can find locally and is designed specifically for imperfection removal by hand.

I mentioned the Zaino in the previous post because he mentioned that he had some already. As far as I know, Zaino is the sole distributor in the US, as I have inquired about carrying them in the past.

Let us know what you end up using and how you make out. Nice to hear from you again, hope all is well.

George

[doctor detroit]

TAR!

I left my car with the dealer to add a ACS front and roof lip spoiler and they brought it back with a huge tar mark on the driver's side rear side. There were four marks and I got the two of the smaller marks out with Turtle Wax Tar and Bug remover but two of the marks are still there and one is huge.

I'm overseas and getting some products is not possible. How should I attack this tar problem? Thanks in advance for any advice.

[darkcloud]

Originally Posted by doctor detroit

TAR!

I left my car with the dealer to add a ACS front and roof lip spoiler and they brought it back with a huge tar mark on the driver's side rear side. There were four marks and I got the two of the smaller marks out with Turtle Wax Tar and Bug remover but two of the marks are still there and one is huge.

I'm overseas and getting some products is not possible. How should I attack this tar problem? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Have you tried claying the affected area? That will usually take just about anything off your cars paint. Then you can go ahead and do the rest of the car and be amazed at how much better your car will look

[doctor detroit]

Originally Posted by darkcloud

Have you tried claying the affected area? That will usually take just about anything off your cars paint. Then you can go ahead and do the rest of the car and be amazed at how much better your car will look

I just ordered my first clay kit and waiting for it to arrive. I guess I'll just wait until it gets here.

Thanks.

[darkcloud]

Originally Posted by doctor detroit

I just ordered my first clay kit and waiting for it to arrive. I guess I'll just wait until it gets here.

Thanks.

Don't cry. Be happy, just think of how happy you'll be after your all-day car cleaning. I just did a full session today and the car looks AMAZING

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by doctor detroit

TAR!

I left my car with the dealer to add a ACS front and roof lip spoiler and they brought it back with a huge tar mark on the driver's side rear side. There were four marks and I got the two of the smaller marks out with Turtle Wax Tar and Bug remover but two of the marks are still there and one is huge.

I'm overseas and getting some products is not possible. How should I attack this tar problem? Thanks in advance for any advice.

What products do you have access to? If you have a clay bar, you can use that, it may take a while and a lot of passes, but it's probably the safest way to remove tar. You could use the Tar & Bug Remover as clay lube to help speed up the process.

I've had good luck with Isopropyl Alcohol and Water for removing sap, and when it's really stubborn, I'll mix in a degreaser (Poorboy's Biodegradable APC is what I use). You could try something similar on the tar if you don't have clay as an option.

Unfortunately there's no quick method of tar removal while remaining paint safe.

George

[turbojet3]

George,
Thanks for the recommending the Red moose machine glaze for my Jet Black.
I did polish the hell out of the car, but the glaze makes makes it look dripping wet. I topped it with the Natty blue. I am very happy with the results.
Had I known the glaze would hide the imperfections so well I may not have
gone the whole Porter cable route.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by turbojet3

George,
Thanks for the recommending the Red moose machine glaze for my Jet Black.
I did polish the hell out of the car, but the glaze makes makes it look dripping wet. I topped it with the Natty blue. I am very happy with the results.
Had I known the glaze would hide the imperfections so well I may not have
gone the whole Porter cable route.

turbojet3,

Glad to hear your were getting good results with the RMG and Natty's Blue combination. The only down side of RMG is I do not recommend putting a sealant on top of it, only a wax, as you did in your detail. Sealants often have a difficult time bonding to the oils in RMG from my experience. I use it myself for show car preps topped with my choice of wax for amazing results.

The PC will come in handy for removing deeper imperfections that the RMG will struggle to mask.

Thanks for keeping us posted, it's always great to hear back from customers.

George

[bartman32]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

For your clear bra, wash it regularly like you would your paint. I usually recommend a chemical polish with protection for clear bra's, something like Klasse All In One, which is non-abrasive. It will help keep it looking sharp as well as give it a layer of protection.

I'm surprised the Plexus dulled the finish, how did you use it? Did you shake it up very well before using it? I'll try to fine tune your process to get better results. I've never experienced it dulling a finish and I use it regularly on my laptop screen. Let me know.

Let me know how you make out.

George

George;
I'm still having the darndest time with Tar and road grime on my clear bra. I get little black marks all over it. I tried again this weekend and Plexus just does not take it off. Even when I spray a lot on it. All I can do is rub which eventually takes the shine off it if I rub any harder. The only thing I've found is PlastX but I'm not sure I should be using that regularly on the bra. Any other suggestions?
Thanks

[pokerface]

Originally Posted by Detailed Image

Good questions pokerface. For the bird droppings, some detailers will try to neutralize the bird dropping marks with baking soda and water mixture to provide a base to the acidic properties of bird droppings. After that, dry claying the surface. If that doesn't do the trick, I'd suggest a chemical polish, such as Klasse All In One. Beyond that you'll be looking at a light abrasive polish, such as Meguiar's ScratchX as a hand applied option. From there you'll probably need to begin using a quality buffer and some abrasive polishes starting with the least aggressive polish and working your way up until desired results are achieved.

For the marks on your trunk, if you think they are calcium deposits, try using a mixture of water and distilled vinegar to remove them. If there are remains, follow the same process as you would above starting with the clay bar until desired results are achieved. Claying should remove the bumps you feel and the polishing should remove any discoloration that may have occurred.

It's ok to clay just in certain areas, but once you begin to polish, I typically recommend polishing the entire panel. To play it safe and to insure a uniform look, perform all the steps, starting with clay, on the entire panel you are working on.

Hope this helps, let us know how you make out, good luck!

George

The clay didn't do anything for the discoloration from the bird poop (hood), but I'm not super concerned anymore about it. However it removed most of the deposits on the trunk --- I could still feel some bumps but I will take a closer look this weekend.

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by bartman32

George;
I'm still having the darndest time with Tar and road grime on my clear bra. I get little black marks all over it. I tried again this weekend and Plexus just does not take it off. Even when I spray a lot on it. All I can do is rub which eventually takes the shine off it if I rub any harder. The only thing I've found is PlastX but I'm not sure I should be using that regularly on the bra. Any other suggestions?
Thanks

bartman32, have you tried something like a bug & tar remover (Poorboy's Bug Squash) or an all purpose degreaser (Poorboy's Bio-APC diluted to the proper ratio) or even an interior cleaner (303 Cleaner & Spot Remover), just naming some products you may have already. If Plexus isn't working for the clear bra, I'd say scrap it for that application. I've never had much trouble removing tar and other stubborn contamination from clear bra's but I'd always pre-treat them during the pre-wash phase with one of the above mentioned products. The alternatives I listed are non-abrasive so would be better to use than the PlastX on a regular basis. Have you been applying a layer of protection like a sealant or wax to help prevent contamination from building up so easily?

Originally Posted by pokerface

The clay didn't do anything for the discoloration from the bird poop (hood), but I'm not super concerned anymore about it. However it removed most of the deposits on the trunk --- I could still feel some bumps but I will take a closer look this weekend.

pokerface, I knew the clay wouldn't do anything for the discoloration unless it was just contamination on the surface. You're going to need to resort to a chemical polish or a light abrasive polish (I mentioned a few options in my initial reply) to take care of the discoloration in the clear coat. Have you given that a shot yet? It sounds like the bumps may just require more passes of the clay bar. For some contamination it takes a while for the clay to break it down and completely remove it from the surface. Have patience with it and continue to clay. The polish could help with the bumps too, but you want to be careful you aren't grinding in those bumps into your clear coat and create more damage. The safest bet is to continue to clay over the bumps.

Hope this helps.

George

[TiAg335i]

Is it better to wax in circles or straight lines? What about polishing by hand?