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      02-11-2012, 07:18 PM   #1519
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hey George.

sorry i'm not knowledgeable about any of this tech stuff like everyone else on the site. But i bought an e92 coupe and it's Jet Black. I park outdoors, i have no other option. Living in Florida, with my last car the sun completely baked the paint.

Now that I have a car I care about, is there a way to protect my car from sun baking without covering it everyday and uncovering when I want to drive?
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      02-12-2012, 05:01 PM   #1520
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Is it bad to powerwash the car every other day?

I do to keep the salt off but I'm wondering if I'm doing more harm than good.

Also I have marks from tree sap that got on my car in the fall. I've since cleaned the area, but it looks like those older cars that have failed clear coats. I haven't tried clay bar or wax on it to get it off yet but would these likely get the crap off?
Power washing is a tough one as there are many who swear by it and others will never do it. The risk seemingly is that you are blasting dirt particles in to and across the paint. As you stand further back and reduce the angle of impact it should be safer but you lose the advantage of the pressure. I personally prefer a traditional two bucket wash or I incorporate a foam gun/cannon. Salt by itself is not terribly dangerous but when it reacts with water in cold temperatures it seemingly does maximum damage. While moisture is in the air always some argue it's more harmful to wash the paint regularly and introduce water to the surface. Obviously many other conditions will impact the results here, but you can see the potential for harm even with the best intentions. I would recommend washing on a regular basis but probably not quite so often and make sure you get a good drying afterward. Sorry I don't have a definitive answer for you here but I hope this helps.

Ironically if the sap is very fresh pressure washing is a good way to remove it without scrubbing it excessively. For old build ups it's really tough to remove, but usually a combination of Stoner Tarminator, mineral spirits or an adhesive remover will help followed by a clay bar and polish. If the marks have etched the paint you'll need to polish the area to restore a more uniform appearance. Usually the Meguiar's M105 and M205 are my go to options here. If the sap has eaten all the way through the clear coat it may need to see a body shop or possibly a little wet sanding and polishing will fix it. If you're not sure try to post up some quality photos and I'll do my best to help. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

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      02-12-2012, 05:15 PM   #1521
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Greg,

A local dealer used some armor all type product that has turned my soft leatherette into a harder shiny vinyl. Is this reversible?

I hope to come visit you on my way back to syracuse next month.
Sorry to hear that is terrible news. Most likely you will be able to reverse this issue but I would treat it asap. I would highly recommend the Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil combo. It's not cheap but it's highly effective and well worth the investment. I've used it on cardboard hard leather before with outstanding results. Check out this step by step guide and before and after pictures when you get time - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...r-care-how-to/. If you have any questions don't hesitate to let me know.

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      02-12-2012, 05:22 PM   #1522
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Originally Posted by Neill7 View Post
hey George.

sorry i'm not knowledgeable about any of this tech stuff like everyone else on the site. But i bought an e92 coupe and it's Jet Black. I park outdoors, i have no other option. Living in Florida, with my last car the sun completely baked the paint.

Now that I have a car I care about, is there a way to protect my car from sun baking without covering it everyday and uncovering when I want to drive?
Congrats on the new car! I would just protect each exposed surface as part of a regular detailing schedule. At least 1 - 2 times per year I'd suggest a full detail and in between you can do smaller details to keep the car clean and protected.

I'd suggest a quality sealant for the exterior paint, headlights, glass, coated/smooth trim, wheels, etc. The Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger is a great option that looks amazing on black and protects very well. The paint will oxidize over time and polishing it will be critical to maintaining that fresh and beautiful appearance. The Meguiar's M205 is a nice one step process if interested in doing it by hand. If you want noticeable better results try using both the Meguiar's M105 and M205 with a very safe and easy to use buffer (i.e. Porter Cable 7424 XP). A kit like this would be ideal (DI Packages Porter Cable 7424XP, Meguiar's Polishes and Hydro Pads Basic Kit) as it will restore virtually any paint to like new condition.

For the exterior and interior vinyl, plastic, leather and rubber surfaces I'd highly recommend the 303 303 Aerospace Protectant! It has superior UV protection and when applied nice and light it's a pretty matte finish so it doesn't look or feel greasy. You can also use the 303 High Tech Fabric Guard on fabrics if you want to help protect them as well!

If I missed any areas of concern please let me know. I hope this information was helpful and don't forget we offer 10% off to forum members with the code e90post. Take care!

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      02-12-2012, 05:49 PM   #1523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Sorry to hear that is terrible news. Most likely you will be able to reverse this issue but I would treat it asap. I would highly recommend the Leatherique Prestine Clean and Leatherique Rejuvenator Oil combo. It's not cheap but it's highly effective and well worth the investment. I've used it on cardboard hard leather before with outstanding results. Check out this step by step guide and before and after pictures when you get time - http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...r-care-how-to/. If you have any questions don't hesitate to let me know.

Greg @ DI
Thanks!

I normally use the 303 Aerospace protectant; would that be suitable as the second step ( 1. I am comfortable with it and 2. I already own it )

In either case, I will check out the Pristine Clean

EDIT - Just making sure....the leatherique works for VINYL/leatherETTE also? I noticed you also sell a 303 Vinyl cleaner.
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Last edited by taibanl; 02-12-2012 at 06:35 PM.
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      02-12-2012, 09:35 PM   #1524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Power washing is a tough one as there are many who swear by it and others will never do it. The risk seemingly is that you are blasting dirt particles in to and across the paint. As you stand further back and reduce the angle of impact it should be safer but you lose the advantage of the pressure. I personally prefer a traditional two bucket wash or I incorporate a foam gun/cannon. Salt by itself is not terribly dangerous but when it reacts with water in cold temperatures it seemingly does maximum damage. While moisture is in the air always some argue it's more harmful to wash the paint regularly and introduce water to the surface. Obviously many other conditions will impact the results here, but you can see the potential for harm even with the best intentions. I would recommend washing on a regular basis but probably not quite so often and make sure you get a good drying afterward. Sorry I don't have a definitive answer for you here but I hope this helps.

Ironically if the sap is very fresh pressure washing is a good way to remove it without scrubbing it excessively. For old build ups it's really tough to remove, but usually a combination of Stoner Tarminator, mineral spirits or an adhesive remover will help followed by a clay bar and polish. If the marks have etched the paint you'll need to polish the area to restore a more uniform appearance. Usually the Meguiar's M105 and M205 are my go to options here. If the sap has eaten all the way through the clear coat it may need to see a body shop or possibly a little wet sanding and polishing will fix it. If you're not sure try to post up some quality photos and I'll do my best to help. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
Hmm makes sense.

I really only do wash when I see a layer of salt dust, or actual soot on the car. I have trouble doing my OCD washes in winter with it being so cold up here in Chicago, so I usually stick to powerwashing. Its my thinking that the salt being on the car gives it a chance to get wet and start corroding. I hope I'm right in trying to keep the salt off the car (even under body). I've since gotten many compliments on how nice my paint looks for being 7 years old, but at the same time, I notice every little imperfection and it drives me nuts. I spend 5-6 hours cleaning in the summer because I'm never really satisfied.

But for the sap, yeah - I will try to get the area cleaned up with a good polish, but if it doesn't work, I'll be sure to post good pictures. I should've probably paid more attention to getting ALL of it off right after it got on the car.

Thanks for the help!
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      02-14-2012, 03:30 PM   #1525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
Thanks!

I normally use the 303 Aerospace protectant; would that be suitable as the second step ( 1. I am comfortable with it and 2. I already own it )

In either case, I will check out the Pristine Clean

EDIT - Just making sure....the leatherique works for VINYL/leatherETTE also? I noticed you also sell a 303 Vinyl cleaner.
Yes both the Prestine Clean and Rejuvenator Oil are meant for leatherette/vinyl and leather. After you have used both of them the 303 AP is great for UV protection and I highly recommend using it roughly once per month, nice and light.

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      02-14-2012, 03:31 PM   #1526
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Originally Posted by DUI Elite View Post
Hmm makes sense.

I really only do wash when I see a layer of salt dust, or actual soot on the car. I have trouble doing my OCD washes in winter with it being so cold up here in Chicago, so I usually stick to powerwashing. Its my thinking that the salt being on the car gives it a chance to get wet and start corroding. I hope I'm right in trying to keep the salt off the car (even under body). I've since gotten many compliments on how nice my paint looks for being 7 years old, but at the same time, I notice every little imperfection and it drives me nuts. I spend 5-6 hours cleaning in the summer because I'm never really satisfied.

But for the sap, yeah - I will try to get the area cleaned up with a good polish, but if it doesn't work, I'll be sure to post good pictures. I should've probably paid more attention to getting ALL of it off right after it got on the car.

Thanks for the help!
Good luck and keep us posted with your results!

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      02-14-2012, 05:16 PM   #1527
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OK...and according to your site, I would use the oil first, THEN the cleaner?
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      02-14-2012, 05:37 PM   #1528
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And I also noticed they recommend 303 aerospace for PAINT?!?!?! Have you ever tried this?

Do you recommend me to pick up 303 vinyl cleaner for the less "detailed" cleanings?

Also, do you think the vinyl cleaner (303) would work for my case as I didn't really want to get into such a big interior detail...hence the reason I paid someone to do it. Maybe I need to though :-/
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      02-14-2012, 05:58 PM   #1529
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Hi Greg,

So I've been doing alot of reading on your website. Tons of useful info! I have a few followup questions:

1) I'm interested in getting the DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. I understand that the M205 is considered a finishing polish. However, when reading the Polishing Auto Detailing Guide on your website, I noticed that the M105/205 is mentioned as a 3 step system system paired with the Menzerna PO85RD on black pads as the final step. Does this not apply to BMWs with our harder clearcoat? Is the M205 fine enough to be used as a one step polish where there are little to no imperfections?

2) I am looking to polish my OEM style 230 rims to give them a like new finish. I was looking at Optimum Metal Polish (http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...-P291/8-oz-S1/). Do I not need to follow up with a sealant with this? It mentions that it "cleans, shines, and protects", but I'd like to confirm.
Are there any other wheel polishes that you would recommend over this one? My wheels aren't in bad shape; they just have never been polished in their 4 year life

3) What is the difference between Chemical Guys Extreme V.R.P. Dressing and Chemical Guys Silk Shine Dressing & Protectant?:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P223/16-oz-S1/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P188/16-oz-S1/
Both are from CG for dressing/protecting rubber, vinyl, plastic. I would like to know if one is better than the other. I would mainly use it for the interior and engine bay.

Thanks for your assistance!
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      02-15-2012, 03:01 PM   #1530
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Hi,

I was wondering about a type of wax/carnauba wax that can provide scratch protection features of clear film? i am just looking an alternative to clear film.
Basically something you can apply on like a paste/liquid that can bond with the paint to protect it from scratches like clear film but removable when it its too scratched up.

thanks!
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      02-16-2012, 10:50 AM   #1531
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taibanl View Post
And I also noticed they recommend 303 aerospace for PAINT?!?!?! Have you ever tried this?

Do you recommend me to pick up 303 vinyl cleaner for the less "detailed" cleanings?

Also, do you think the vinyl cleaner (303) would work for my case as I didn't really want to get into such a big interior detail...hence the reason I paid someone to do it. Maybe I need to though :-/
Check out this Leatherique How To Guide (http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...r-care-how-to/) for more detailed information about the application we recommend. In short yes apply the RO first followed by the PC for best results. I know this seems a bit odd but the results are usually amazing!

Yes the 303 Aerospace Protectant can be used on the paint. I have used it on the paint but it doesn't give off much shine and it's not very durable so it's not too popular for that application.

The 303 Cleaner & Spot Remover (pre-diluted) or the 303 Fabric & Vinyl Cleaner (concentrated, I dilute around 6:1) are my go to products for the interior. They are highly effective interior cleaners (same exact active ingredients) that I use on carpets, dashboard, doors, console, fabric seats, mats, trim, etc. When detailing a customers car this is what I always use because I know it will remove human oils and most stains. I love using this product so it should be fine for a light maintenance cleaning and for a serious cleaning.

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      02-16-2012, 11:26 AM   #1532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitehawk View Post
Hi Greg,

So I've been doing alot of reading on your website. Tons of useful info! I have a few followup questions:

1) I'm interested in getting the DI Packages PC 7424XP with M105, M205 and 5.5" pads. I understand that the M205 is considered a finishing polish. However, when reading the Polishing Auto Detailing Guide on your website, I noticed that the M105/205 is mentioned as a 3 step system system paired with the Menzerna PO85RD on black pads as the final step. Does this not apply to BMWs with our harder clearcoat? Is the M205 fine enough to be used as a one step polish where there are little to no imperfections?

2) I am looking to polish my OEM style 230 rims to give them a like new finish. I was looking at Optimum Metal Polish (http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...-P291/8-oz-S1/). Do I not need to follow up with a sealant with this? It mentions that it "cleans, shines, and protects", but I'd like to confirm.
Are there any other wheel polishes that you would recommend over this one? My wheels aren't in bad shape; they just have never been polished in their 4 year life

3) What is the difference between Chemical Guys Extreme V.R.P. Dressing and Chemical Guys Silk Shine Dressing & Protectant?:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P223/16-oz-S1/
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P188/16-oz-S1/
Both are from CG for dressing/protecting rubber, vinyl, plastic. I would like to know if one is better than the other. I would mainly use it for the interior and engine bay.

Thanks for your assistance!
Thanks for reading and great questions.

1.) The answer depends on a variety of factors including your perception and level of perfection. Many customers can use the M105 and M205 combo on black paint with great results and love the look. Some black paint may have a slight haze to it though and the PO85RD aka SF4500 will help remove that with a black or blue pad. Those who want perfection would probably be better served by incorporating the PO85RD in their routine. The M205 by itself will certainly help and look good but the M105 is the real winner here because of how outstanding it's cutting power is and how well it finishes down. Therefore I highly recommend a keeping that step as well. Sorry I don't have a universal answer for you but I hope this helps.

2.) The Optimum Metal Polish is a cleaner and protectant all in one as you stated. It works really well but like most AIO products you'll typically get better results from two separate products but the obvious trade off is usually cost and time. I personally love the P21S Finish Restorer for metal polishing and it's my "go to" product. Afterwards you can use any sealant for the wheels but I like to use the Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant personally.

3.) Those products are very similar but if I had to pick one I'll go with the Silk Shine Dressing for the interior.

Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI
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      02-16-2012, 11:28 AM   #1533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silence4Love View Post
Hi,

I was wondering about a type of wax/carnauba wax that can provide scratch protection features of clear film? i am just looking an alternative to clear film.
Basically something you can apply on like a paste/liquid that can bond with the paint to protect it from scratches like clear film but removable when it its too scratched up.

thanks!
I'm not aware of any product like this, I believe if it looked good such a product would be amazing. In general a clear bra is the closest thing you'll see that can really protect against scratches. For products the Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating or the CarPro Cquartz Ceramic Quartz Paint Protection would be the next closest thing. They are like another clear coat applied to the surface that is really strong. Check out those descriptions it may be what you are looking for!

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      02-16-2012, 12:23 PM   #1534
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This thread is solid gold. Thanks for your time Greg!

Any paint sealants/waxes INCLUDE SPF like 303?
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      02-18-2012, 02:07 PM   #1535
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Greg,

I recently visited Chemical Guys and bought a 16 oz bottle of EZ Creme Glaze and a 16 oz bottle Butter Wet Wax. I was told to apply the glaze first then follow with the wax, is this correct? Or is the application process vice versa?

Muchas Gracias in advance!
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      02-22-2012, 11:20 PM   #1536
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Need a recommendation for a wax for a

GF ordered a mini cooper in off white recently and it's currently on a freight ship on the way here. I'm excited because I'll be the first to detail/prep her car once it arrived(we already made arrangements for the dealership not to wash it)


Now, I just realized that her MINI is white with black roof and black stripes. I've already purchased the Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Wax for her car and now im concern what i should use on the the dark area of the car.

Any suggestion would be great. Thanks
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      02-23-2012, 12:11 PM   #1537
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This thread is solid gold. Thanks for your time Greg!

Any paint sealants/waxes INCLUDE SPF like 303?
I appreciate the kind words, it's sincerely appreciated! Most sealants and waxes will have some protection from UV rays but a product like the 303 Aerospace Protectant has superior UV protection. I don't know of a sealant or wax that specializes in UV protection though.

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      02-23-2012, 12:17 PM   #1538
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Greg,

I recently visited Chemical Guys and bought a 16 oz bottle of EZ Creme Glaze and a 16 oz bottle Butter Wet Wax. I was told to apply the glaze first then follow with the wax, is this correct? Or is the application process vice versa?

Muchas Gracias in advance!
Yes that is correct the EZ Creme Glaze has a little bit of polish in it as well so you definitely want to apply that first. After that apply the protection (Butter Wax) and you should be all set!

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      02-23-2012, 12:20 PM   #1539
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Originally Posted by mikechow View Post
GF ordered a mini cooper in off white recently and it's currently on a freight ship on the way here. I'm excited because I'll be the first to detail/prep her car once it arrived(we already made arrangements for the dealership not to wash it)


Now, I just realized that her MINI is white with black roof and black stripes. I've already purchased the Dodo Juice Light Fantastic Wax for her car and now im concern what i should use on the the dark area of the car.

Any suggestion would be great. Thanks
Congrats on the new ride. My first tip to you is DO NOT let the dealership do the prep work for you. In general you would be much better off doing this on your own and if you need any help please let me know. As for the Light Fantastic use it on the whole car and it will look great. This wax does it's absolute best work on lighter colors but it will still look great on the dark stripes. If you notice any issues let us know but I'm confident you'll be fine!

Take care!

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      02-23-2012, 03:58 PM   #1540
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hi.. i recently ordered the leatherique twins and awaiting delivery. About a month ago, i used the mothers cleaner and conditioner sparingly and needless to say i was not pleased with the conditioner. It left a shiny look which looked a bit blotchy. Really spoiled the OEM leather finish. My question is when i am ready to use the RO, should i first used a the remainder of the mothers cleaner to get out the residual mothers leather conditioner? i dont want that the RO worsens the seats, they dont look awful now but they definitely dont look like the matte OEM finish.
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