[GOTMH8N]

Hey

Any tips or good products for eliminating that dreaded "butt mark" on leather seats?

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by taibanl

Greg....as you may remember, I had opticoat applied professionally about two months ago...this was immediately prior to putting my car in long term outdoor storage, with the BMW Outdoor Car Cover
When I removed the cover, the result was this:

As you can see there is marring on the trunk lip from motion of the cover in the wind...

1) Would you expect that this is in the opticoat or has it rubbed into the clearcoat

2) is that repairable

I have again put the cover on the car, this time using painters tape on that lip. Incidentally I noticed that there is an even softer felt in the area of the sharkfin antenna due to the increased friction there, but nothing for the trunk lip.

Am I doing the best I can for long term storage ( I travel frequently due to my occupation)?

Finally:

With the opticoat being a 2 year application, what do you recommend for inbetween jobs? I like to have the car professionally detailed about 2x a year. Once in the spring, and once before the Syracuse snow& salt season.

Would you recommend one of the "normal" synthetic paint sealants on top of the opticoat or just a normal wax?

1. The Opti-Coat is similar to a clear coat and it can be scratched and it's hard to say how deep they are from that pic. It's hard to tell imperfections from the clouds being reflected above.

2. Again really tough to tell via pics. Lips, corners, edges, etc. are known to have less clear coat so it can probably be polished but it should be done carefully. If a pro has a paint thickness gage (ie DeFelsko PosiTector 200 B/Adv Coating Thickness Gage) that could be really helpful.

3. Car covers are a double edged sword with no right answer. They help protect against many forms of damage, sap, bird droppings, etc. but they are prone to marring the paint all over as the wind blows it. Your best bet is to look into some sort of garage or storage unit if you want a more safe option.

4. A traditional sealant (Blackfire Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection) can be used to add protection and gloss. The fastest and easiest application in my opinion is the Optimum Opti-Seal & Free Yellow Foam Applicator. Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by GOTMH8N

Hey

Any tips or good products for eliminating that dreaded "butt mark" on leather seats?

Thanks!

Usually this comes from just wear and tear from entering and exiting the vehicle. The material on your seat has physically worn off little by little so there is no easy fix. A semi-annual cleaning and conditioning (ie Leatherique combo) will help a bit but it won't solve it. Your best bet is to be extra careful entering and exiting the vehicle minimizing friction. So lift yourself up instead of twisting and turning on the actual seat. Good luck!

Greg @ DI

[GOTMH8N]

Good info! Thank you!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by GOTMH8N

Good info! Thank you!

Good luck with it!

Greg

[Gemballa1980]

Just a quick question; I'm attempting to do some scratch / swirl repairs on my Alpine White E90 (2007) and while I've managed to get rid of most, if not all swirls, I'm struggling to get rid of some of the deeper scratches.

I'm currently using a Flex 3401 with Meg 105 on both LC Cyan and Surbuf pads.

The previous owner would have used the bootlid as a shelf for his suitcase and while the scratches arent through to the metal, I can't seem to do much in way of repairs. I'm holding back really getting stuck in for fear of going 'too far'.

On to my question: Is it safe to say that while I can still clearly see the factory orange peal in the paint - there's still plenty of clear left to continue on with repairs?

Just how hard is the clear on an Alpine White (3) e90?

Thanks!

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by Gemballa1980

Just a quick question; I'm attempting to do some scratch / swirl repairs on my Alpine White E90 (2007) and while I've managed to get rid of most, if not all swirls, I'm struggling to get rid of some of the deeper scratches.

I'm currently using a Flex 3401 with Meg 105 on both LC Cyan and Surbuf pads.

The previous owner would have used the bootlid as a shelf for his suitcase and while the scratches arent through to the metal, I can't seem to do much in way of repairs. I'm holding back really getting stuck in for fear of going 'too far'.

On to my question: Is it safe to say that while I can still clearly see the factory orange peal in the paint - there's still plenty of clear left to continue on with repairs?

Just how hard is the clear on an Alpine White (3) e90?

Thanks!

It's hard to say anything for certain about the thickness of a clear coat without a paint thickness gage. These are expensive and most don't have them so we have to rely on visual evidence and common sense. If ever in doubt I always lean towards being more conservative.

In this case it sounds like the scratches are too deep to be safely buffed out. Most likely some touch up work (ie paint, wet sand, polish, etc.) would be needed to really fix it.

For the other areas if you still see lots of orange peel I would think that would mean enough clear coat is there to still polish safely as you mentioned. Again a gage is needed to be certain but it is a good visual indicator.

Greg @ DI

[e90-328i]

hi, you may have answered this 20 times already but here it goes.
noob next door got outdoor latex paint drops on my hood and fender. will just washing it take it off? or am i in need of something else?
its 2011 montego blue metallic.
also he came over and looks like rubbed it with his finger and water, i hope it was not thinner! after i told him not to touch it till i find out whats best way
thanks

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by e90-328i

hi, you may have answered this 20 times already but here it goes.
noob next door got outdoor latex paint drops on my hood and fender. will just washing it take it off? or am i in need of something else?
its 2011 montego blue metallic.
also he came over and looks like rubbed it with his finger and water, i hope it was not thinner! after i told him not to touch it till i find out whats best way
thanks

Sorry to hear about this situation, unfortunately it's not too uncommon. Definitely don't use any paint thinner and don't let him touch the car. Start off with a good wash but this will not remove the paint. Next use a clay bar and it should remove the paint no problem. Normally a fine grade bar (ie DI Accessories Gentle Fine Grade Clay) will clean most vehicles but sometimes with paint over spray we'll recommend a medium grade bar (DI Accessories Medium Grade Clay Bar), but it's hard to know for sure until you start using them. This should definitely remove it more safely than other methods. Another option is to use something like the 3M Adhesive Remover or the Stoner Tarminator. These can help loosen the paint over spray safely but it involves scrubbing with more force so I prefer to use a clay bar. Hope this helps!

I'd also take pictures of this just in case it caused any other damage to be on the safe side. Good luck!

Greg @ DI

[e90-328i]

Thanks. I washed the car. It seemed to lighten up with just the water first. I then washed it with lots of soap. I didnt have to rub too hard, just normal wipe. And I don't think I can tell if it had it on before. Would I have to clay still you think?

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by e90-328i

Thanks. I washed the car. It seemed to lighten up with just the water first. I then washed it with lots of soap. I didnt have to rub too hard, just normal wipe. And I don't think I can tell if it had it on before. Would I have to clay still you think?

That's great if it came off that easy, I'm definitely surprised but still great news. If it's all coming off with light to medium pressure while washing then hopefully you are all set. If you want to be extra thorough I'd get a fine grade bar and go over it again. Lastly I would inspect the paint from different angles in direct sun to ensure nothing has etched in to the finish. Assuming it looks good hopefully you're all set!

Greg @ DI

[bgill76]

2x DI accessories sheepskin mitt
5x DI microfiber no edge towel
1x. DI waffle weave towel
1x lake country blue grit sponge (for wheels)
1x grit guard
1x mini ez detail brush
1x 200g gentle fine clay
1x dodo juice born slippy clay lube
1x black fire wet diamond sealant
1x sonax wheel cleaner
1x poor boys wheel sealant
1x P21S degreaser
1x 303 fabric and vinyl cleaner
1x 303 fabric guard
1x 303 aerospace protectant
1x stoner invisible glass
1x glass science rain clear


How's this list? I'm not looking to polish yet. What would be a good car shampoo? And what would I use to clean and seal the exhaust tip? This is all in a cart on detailedimage.com

[ericruiz911]

Originally Posted by bgill76

2x DI accessories sheepskin mitt
5x DI microfiber no edge towel
1x. DI waffle weave towel
1x lake country blue grit sponge (for wheels)
1x grit guard
1x mini ez detail brush
1x 200g gentle fine clay
1x dodo juice born slippy clay lube
1x black fire wet diamond sealant
1x sonax wheel cleaner
1x poor boys wheel sealant
1x P21S degreaser
1x 303 fabric and vinyl cleaner
1x 303 fabric guard
1x 303 aerospace protectant
1x stoner invisible glass
1x glass science rain clear


How's this list? I'm not looking to polish yet. What would be a good car shampoo? And what would I use to clean and seal the exhaust tip? This is all in a cart on detailedimage.com

-poor boys wheel sealant sucks IMO. Try armor all wheel protectant. i love it
-303 is a great product
- i would say aquapel in replacement of rain clear

[bgill76]

Originally Posted by ericruiz911

-poor boys wheel sealant sucks IMO. Try armor all wheel protectant. i love it
-303 is a great product
- i would say aquapel in replacement of rain clear

I read the detailedimage.com guide and that was all of the recommended supplies. Anyone else have input?

[ericruiz911]

Originally Posted by bgill76

I read the detailedimage.com guide and that was all of the recommended supplies. Anyone else have input?

i recommend leatherique prestine clean and rejuvenator for your leather. Also recommend a caranuba wax to finish over BFWD. Hope this helps bud.

[bgill76]

Originally Posted by ericruiz911

i recommend leatherique prestine clean and rejuvenator for your leather. Also recommend a caranuba wax to finish over BFWD. Hope this helps bud.

I think I have leatherette not leather

[CJ421]

Originally Posted by ericruiz911

-poor boys wheel sealant sucks IMO. Try armor all wheel protectant. i love it
-303 is a great product
- i would say aquapel in replacement of rain clear

Agreed that PBWS sucks, it's a nightmare to get on/off. What I do for wheels is the same I do for paint: wash, glaze and seal. I take the wheels off the car every six months to do this; in between I just wash.

Originally Posted by bgill76

2x DI accessories sheepskin mitt
5x DI microfiber no edge towel
1x. DI waffle weave towel
1x lake country blue grit sponge (for wheels)
1x grit guard
1x mini ez detail brush
1x 200g gentle fine clay
1x dodo juice born slippy clay lube
1x black fire wet diamond sealant
1x sonax wheel cleaner
1x poor boys wheel sealant
1x P21S degreaser
*1x 303 fabric and vinyl cleaner
*1x 303 fabric guard
1x 303 aerospace protectant
*1x stoner invisible glass
*1x glass science rain clear


How's this list? I'm not looking to polish yet. What would be a good car shampoo? And what would I use to clean and seal the exhaust tip? This is all in a cart on detailedimage.com

I bolded the stuff I'd remove and put an asterisk next to the stuff I don't have experience with.
I bolded the clay lube because you don't need it. Get some instant detailer, it will work the same and you can use it on your paint after a wash. Unfortunately DI doesn't sell Meguiar's detailer but that is the best, IMO in terms of on/off and clarity. Optimum doesn't do it for me.

Get more towels - I'd get 12+ of the blue microfiber square ones, two waffle weave, and 4-6 "Great White" towels, my favorite:
http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Micr...30/16-x-24-S1/

Also get another sheepskin mitt, have at least two.

A sponge won't cut it for wheels, IMO, get a detail brush: http://www.detailedimage.com/DI-Brus.../Full-Size-S1/

For shampoo, I like Optimum. Slippery and foams up great. I buy the big bottles:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...P284/32-oz-S1/

I like to apply glaze first then sealant, it will give the paint extra depth and hide minor imperfections:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Chemica...P192/16-oz-S1/

*Deep breath* - last but not least, I am a HUGE fan of Meguiar's M40:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiar...-P402/16oz-S1/
Use that on all your rubber seals, plastics - it's fantastic. It will also restore any rubber that is starting to fade/oxidize. For example, the little rubber storage trays in my center console were oxidized when I got the car (brand new car ... go figure) - applied M40, been fine since. It also makes a great tire shine.

Originally Posted by bgill76

I think I have leatherette not leather

You can (and should) still use leather protectant. Leatherette doesn't need as much care as leather but the key word is as much; it can get brittle. Leather protectant will keep it nice and flexible. I use the Optimum Leather Protectant Plus, it works nicely and smells good.

---

Thanks Greg for all your contributions here ... this thread is an absolutely fantastic resource. I used it this morning to figure out which pads and such to use for polishing soon. I'm also going to pick up Cquartz. Heard nothing but good things.

[mob17]

I just received some PBWS..... hope its not that bad

[CJ421]

Originally Posted by mob17

I just received some PBWS..... hope its not that bad

Just make sure you get any excess off after applying, it will dry and get caked on there and is then very difficult to remove. My advice, take the wheels off the car to apply.

[mob17]

Originally Posted by CJ421

Just make sure you get any excess off after applying, it will dry and get caked on there and is then very difficult to remove. My advice, take the wheels off the car to apply.

Thanks. I can't take the wheels off as i have no suitable jack, even when running NRFTs! But i'll now make sure to completely remove all the product

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by bgill76

2x DI accessories sheepskin mitt
5x DI microfiber no edge towel
1x. DI waffle weave towel
1x lake country blue grit sponge (for wheels)
1x grit guard
1x mini ez detail brush
1x 200g gentle fine clay
1x dodo juice born slippy clay lube
1x black fire wet diamond sealant
1x sonax wheel cleaner
1x poor boys wheel sealant
1x P21S degreaser
1x 303 fabric and vinyl cleaner
1x 303 fabric guard
1x 303 aerospace protectant
1x stoner invisible glass
1x glass science rain clear


How's this list? I'm not looking to polish yet. What would be a good car shampoo? And what would I use to clean and seal the exhaust tip? This is all in a cart on detailedimage.com

List looks great and thank you for supporting Detailed Image. The only other product I've been recommending to almost everyone is the CarPro Iron X Iron Remover ( IronX w/cherry scent ). It's so easy to use and so effective, while saving you so much time with the clay bar. It helps remove iron deposits in the paint and really makes the paint feel smooth and clean.

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask and if you need a quicker response e-mail us!

Greg @ DI

[Detailed Image]

Originally Posted by mob17

I just received some PBWS..... hope its not that bad

The Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant has always worked great for me and been easy to work with. You have to apply it very thin for best results, a very little bit goes a long ways so it's a great value. Wait about 10 - 15 minutes before buffing off the excess product and avoid direct sun if possible. Following this process I've never had an issue.

If you want even more durable protection check out the 22ple VM1 Metal and Wheel Coating. It lasts about a year and works incredibly well!

Greg @ DI