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      08-02-2011, 10:23 PM   #1
eduardomi
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Unhappy Anyone please help...horror story

Hey guys,

I have been following these forums for a while now, reading and learning more each day.

A few days ago, I bought a beautiful 2007 335i with 68k miles. The car looked and performed perfectly. Nothing wrong, just out of warranty.

Yesterday, I decided to take it to the dealer to perform the so called HPFP recall, upon checking the car's history the agent told me it had another recall due (injectors), so, cool I got 2 recalls done for free.

Hours later the agent called and said the car was ready but that the mechanic noted a water leak on the pump and a few warnings on the computer on the pump not building/maintaining enough water pressure. He mentioned replacing that pump would cost me $1400. I told him not to perform the water pump thing and called an indy shop and they quoted $700 for the same job.

I picked up the car and asked the agent how bad was the leak (I inspected the car well before buying it and also had an indy shop checking it on a hoist and never saw any leak), he said a bit of water was sipping from it...

Anyways, I am about to embark on a 1000+ mile trip so I decided I that even
though the water pump was working fine I didnt want to take the risk of it failing during the trip, so I decided to have the indy shop do the job.

They use genuine parts and are one of the most respected shops in Glendale, CA so I was cool with leaving the car there.

Today, I picked up the car from the shop and everything was good for the first 8miles, but upon reaching home I noticed that the oil sensor was giving me an "inactive" message. The one on the idrive (navigation) was fine but the one on the dash (the one you check with the controls on the left of the steering wheel) was reading inactive. That seemed weird as a day before it was working fine.

Anyways, the wife and I packed up everything, loaded the car and hit the road...I didnt feel very confortable not knowing what was going on with the oil thing so I decided to stop by the indy shop and ask them if they knew what the problem was and upon checking they couldnt find anything (sensor connected). They told me that most likely the dealer messed with the programming of the car when they did the recalls and that I should go back and talk to them.


I drove 2 blocks to the BMW dealer (Pacific BMW, Glendale CA) and the agent gave me the most strange explanation for the gauge on the dash reading inactive. He said "on cars with navigation, we never read the oil level gauge on the dash, we go by what the idrive says, because the gauge on the dash is connected to it" and I said, it was working before bringing it to you, could it be that while doing the recalls something could have happen during programming? and he denied it and said I should ignore the gauge on the dash.

I drove out of the dealer literally 100-ft and then hell came down... yellow warning for engine temperature, 3 seconds later red warning and a big red ENGINE OVERHEATING text on the idrive.

Before deciding to change the water pump, I read many horror stories here in the forums of this scenario and in light of avoiding this, I decided to change the water pump.

I called the indy shop and they immediately came, opened the hood...nothing looked exploded, put some coolant on the reservoir and asked me to drive it back to the shop.

I left it there, they said they will swap the pump but that they doubt it is a pump problem and they think my programming is messed up and it may not be sending the right signal to the pump.

Anyways, I do not what to think now...trying to avoid a tragedy I got into it.

The dealer wants to charge money to troubleshoot the problem and completely denies they could have messed with the programming.

I will keep you posted about my ordeal tomorrow once I hear a word from the indy shop. I am thinking that if the pump change does not fix the problem I will drop my pants and take it to the dealer so they can check the programming and make sure everything is fine. I mean, I have a new water pump...what else could it need?

The M shop (another reputable shop in Glendale) is booked until mid August so they are not an option.

It sucks that this is happening with my first bmw...

Anyone have a good advise to give?

Many thanks in advance.

k.
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      08-02-2011, 10:30 PM   #2
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sorry to hear that. i am also in glendale and i only had positive experience with pacific BMW in terms of service so i hope its not them...

however from your story it seems like your car was fine before the recall. if only you can pinpoint or prove that it was after recall that problem started.

you should definitely take to pacific. they could hopefully give you some break and at least tell you what is wrong. it sounds like there isnt any actual damage but more of a ECU problem.

did you buy your car at pacific?
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      08-02-2011, 10:41 PM   #3
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maybe shoud have got it fixed at BMW..sure it was 700 more..but look at the aggrevation..

I dont usually let the dealer work on my car as Im outta warranty..but in this case I would have bit the bullet..
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      08-02-2011, 10:54 PM   #4
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Seems to me the bigger problem will be proving the dealer is the guilty party in all this mess. The indy shop could have screwed something up too. Based on the fact that your car is overheating or at least showing and overheat condition, I would say the indy shop did not re program the computer after the pump install. As many here will tell you, whenever you get anything replaced/repaired on your BMW the computer does in fact need to be programmed for that change. Does the Indy shop not have the diagnostic scan for BMW's ? if so let them run a scan and tell you what codes you're kicking out. I along with many here will tell you that it is total bullshit that dealers run on you, that your car needs to be fixed by them, the dealer, if you want it right. There are many good Indy shops out there with great techs. Bottom line with the Indy shops is they must have the proper diagnostic equipment in order to do the job right and complete. So, go back to the Indy shop and start there first since you paid him for the job.
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      08-02-2011, 10:57 PM   #5
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^Another good argument for why to have let BMW do the work.

The pump is electronically controlled by the ECU..it requires that right programing..

Yea proving which shop is at fault is gonna be a mess.
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      08-02-2011, 10:59 PM   #6
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should have DIY. easy work, programming is a breeze when you know the right people.
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      08-03-2011, 03:55 AM   #7
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Thank you everyone for replying and certaily for reading such a large post.

Good question, if I would have done a DYI, how would one re-program the computer?

Yes, I took the car to BMW Pacific but the car was bought from a private party. What I still cannot explain myself is how the oil level sensor that displays the reading on the dash (in between rpm and speed) is no longer reading and instead displays as Inactive. That (I think) has nothing to do with the water pump, or does it?

I had the indy shop look at the oil level sensor to check if it was connected and in fact it was so I dont know. I think it is going to be a bitch to have either side fix the problem for free...

How much would a re-program cost at the dealer?

Oh man...anyone in the valley area willing to help me out? Funny thing is, I was gonna hit the road today on a trip and had all the luggage on the trunk and everything ready to go, -had to cancel that.
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      08-03-2011, 03:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwpride335i View Post
sorry to hear that. i am also in glendale and i only had positive experience with pacific BMW in terms of service so i hope its not them...

however from your story it seems like your car was fine before the recall. if only you can pinpoint or prove that it was after recall that problem started.

you should definitely take to pacific. they could hopefully give you some break and at least tell you what is wrong. it sounds like there isnt any actual damage but more of a ECU problem.

did you buy your car at pacific?
I was there this afternoon and they said they could troubleshoot the car but not for free... that was for the oil gauge not for the overheating.

I am down about $1,500 in repairs and I've owned the car for 5 days.
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      08-03-2011, 05:10 AM   #9
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This is just a guess, but even when you're doing something as simple as changing the battery on your car, you need to register the battery. Either the dealer does this or you can do it yourself by purchasing a bavarian technic cable and running a command.

A guess could be that when a new water pump is installed, some kind of command (or several) must be run in order for the car to recognize the new pump. Talk to a mechanic at the BMW dealer and ask if they do in fact need to do this extra step to make it work, and then ask the indy shop if they have done this after they did the physical labor. Or the other way around, whichever you prefer.
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      08-03-2011, 05:19 AM   #10
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Being quite familiar with the water pump, having just changed mine (DIY) and disecting the old pump, I can not see how the pump would "leak". It is totally closed and sealed. The only place it could leak is from the supply hose or the return hose.
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      08-03-2011, 05:54 AM   #11
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sorry to hear about the crap your going thru i know it's very frustrating.

pardon my french... but swallow the load and have the dealer diagnose the problem. if they are at fault hopefully that will show and be resolved... if not , find the price and if tolerable just get it done.

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      08-03-2011, 07:37 AM   #12
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Did the indy verify the problem or did they just swap the pump because yiu asked them to?

does the indy routinely work on BMW or is he a generalist that periodically does oil cbanges on BMW?

Who inspected your car before you bought it?

The overheating is a indy issue.
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      08-03-2011, 08:48 AM   #13
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imho it's troubling to have a red warning stating overheating. I wouldn't feel comfortable allowing people to tell me it's probably a wrong indication and to fill it up with coolant and drive it over. It should be a flatbed immediately. imho you need a 3rd party to look at it, not let 2 parties who potentially messed something up have the opportunity to cover their tracks. It's unfortunate a recall turns into an overheating.
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      08-03-2011, 10:23 AM   #14
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thats why i wont buy a non cpo BMW
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      08-03-2011, 11:26 AM   #15
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Thanks again for your replies

The shop I took it to only works on BMW,and I just confirmed with them that they don't have to reprogram anything after a water pump change...is this true?

They hooked up their computer and it showed a few faults including the one I mentioned about the oil level sensor display in the dash. Let me try to post from my phone the picture I took of their screen.

Ok I can't but the faults say:

Stored faults

2E84: electric coolant pump communication
2E8B: intelligent battery sensor signal
2ACB: DME master relay activation
2E83: electric coolant pump, power reduced operation
2E85: electric coolant pump, communication
2EA1: oil condition sensor, communication (this is the one I initially noted)
2E98: alternator, communication

Active faults:
2E7C: bit serial-data interface, signal


What do you guys think?

The shop says the dealer messed up the computer programming.

Help, thanks.

k.
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      08-03-2011, 11:54 AM   #16
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I just had my pump and thermostat replaced by an indie, and no mention of reprogramming needed. Read some DIY's on the subject and see if anyone mentions it. I believe in saving the $700 and trusting a good indie shop.
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      08-03-2011, 01:48 PM   #17
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Show couldnt do anything and stated the water pump is not the problem.

I am the dealer now, will have to swallow $165 to diagnose the problem Plus whatever is needed to fix it.

Funny thing is, upon pulling in at the dealer the car overheated again, so I am thinking it may well be a programming issue. So many codes I didn't have before and now a few sensors not communicating.Putting this on the dealer will be tough, even though no one but them touched the computer (hpfp recall and injectors recall).

Is there any master tec here in the forums that can give me an opinion? You know, if there programming for the recall could have messed something up? Don't know?

Thanks!
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      08-03-2011, 01:54 PM   #18
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Possibly..there are many on here who had their cars running perfectly and upon doing the recalls had problems arise..i say just let BMW run w it..save u time..(not so much money anymore)..but time...and the work will be warrantied
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      08-03-2011, 01:59 PM   #19
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As far as the electric cooling pump communication code, it means the ECU can't talk to the pump controller. Either the pump electrical connector is unplugged, or the control electronics are damaged. New coolant pumps are shipped in an ESD (Electro-Static Discharge) bag. That means the electronics are susceptible to damage from static electricity. It's possible the indy shop damaged the pump electrically and the control electronics are intermittent.
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      08-03-2011, 02:25 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENINTY View Post
As far as the electric cooling pump communication code, it means the ECU can't talk to the pump controller. Either the pump electrical connector is unplugged, or the control electronics are damaged. New coolant pumps are shipped in an ESD (Electro-Static Discharge) bag. That means the electronics are susceptible to damage from static electricity. It's possible the indy shop damaged the pump electrically and the control electronics are intermittent.
That sir, would be very very unfortunate to me. That an impossible thing to prove (to them).

I feel I am paying for a masters degree on life experience.
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      08-03-2011, 03:22 PM   #21
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Update: I am still waiting at the dealer and they said the coolan pump has no power going to it. They are still investigating... My concern is that other stuff may not be getting power either; could it be the relay I am getting fault for? I am afraid they are gonna come back and say I need a new ECU (computer).

Finger crossed and praying to the lord.

I will keep u guys informed.

E.
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      08-03-2011, 08:55 PM   #22
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Have read the whole story, and being a new ( used ) 2010 owner, makes me sick to how a perfectly good car can become a nightmare over night ( pretty much )..... Sorry to hear ( read ) all of that .
I checked my I drive ( oil level thing ) and I still have the same thing on my front gages ???? So I'm pretty sure that you should have it as well.
Someone did not do the programming right orrrrr.... there is a glitch in the programming and someone just missed when programming new software ( with the recall )

I could be wrong about all of this..... my wife has proven that to me time and time again.

Good luck !
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