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      08-03-2011, 02:11 PM   #1
HoustonRed
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First Detailing Job by Myself

Hi guys,

I have had the CPO Metallic Black Sapphire 335i for over a year. Mostly i got the detailing done at bubbles hand wash. Recently, after going over the board planned to at least wash the car myself. I lived in apartment and no access to hose. So, went ONR way, and really loved cleaning my car by myself!, have been doing that ever since. (last 3 months)

Now I feel I can step up to do the detailing my self. I wanted your advice, if I am planning it right. (all by hand)

I have got
1) ONR
2) Mothers clay / mothers detailer
3) Mequiars Swirl X
4) Klasse AIO
5) Klasse SG and Wolfgang deep gloss 3.0
6) loads of MF towels, foam applicator (that came with Klasse kit), spray bottles...


From the research from all the boards, I planned out doing the following:

1 - clean with ONR thouroughly
do you suggest do a hose wash at nearby car wash ??

2 - claybar each panel (1/3 rd at a time) and wipe down immediately
do yo suggest using ONR as QD ?

3 - I have light to moderate swirls on my car (thanks to idiots from bubbles car wash)
so do the Swirl X using the same procedure as claybar and wipe down immediately. What about pads? I don't have much idea about them and If they are required or not... ?

4 - clean the car with klasse AIO, panel at a time and wipe down
is this step required as I am polishing with SwirlX any way ?

5 - apply the sealant
big question - > do I use Klasse SG or Wolfgang 3.0 ???

6 - let it cure and re apply 2 more times at 12 hour intervals.

This is my first time trial and I do not want to mess something up? I can learn from mistakes but do not want to spoil something!

Please feel free to say anything, suggestions are welcome.

Cheers
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      08-03-2011, 02:42 PM   #2
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come on guys, 23 views and no replies! even a sentence saying it is all right or wrong will do!
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      08-03-2011, 02:46 PM   #3
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You're not going to get much, if any, paint correction done by hand. Best if you can get your hands on a random orbital or DA polisher. Don't use a rotary if you don't know what you're doing.
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      08-03-2011, 02:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slider86 View Post
You're not going to get much, if any, paint correction done by hand. Best if you can get your hands on a random orbital or DA polisher. Don't use a rotary if you don't know what you're doing.
Even though i aspire a show room finish, but I would like to take step at a time. Will I not be able to remove the swirls at all using hand. Is it possible to get a batteried polisher or orbital? as I do not have access to power port.
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      08-03-2011, 02:56 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HoustonRed View Post
Hi guys,

I have had the CPO Metallic Black Sapphire 335i for over a year. Mostly i got the detailing done at bubbles hand wash. Recently, after going over the board planned to at least wash the car myself. I lived in apartment and no access to hose. So, went ONR way, and really loved cleaning my car by myself!, have been doing that ever since. (last 3 months)

Now I feel I can step up to do the detailing my self. I wanted your advice, if I am planning it right. (all by hand)

I have got
1) ONR
2) Mothers clay / mothers detailer
3) Mequiars Swirl X
4) Klasse AIO
5) Klasse SG and Wolfgang deep gloss 3.0
6) loads of MF towels, foam applicator (that came with Klasse kit), spray bottles...


From the research from all the boards, I planned out doing the following:

1 - clean with two bucket wash with car wash soap
do you suggest do a hose wash at nearby car wash ??

2 - claybar each panel (1/3 rd at a time) and wipe down immediately
do yo suggest using ONR as QD ?Use ONR it works great

3 - I have light to moderate swirls on my car (thanks to idiots from bubbles car wash)
so do the Swirl X using the same procedure as claybar and wipe down immediately. What about pads? I don't have much idea about them and If they are required or not... ? Honestly your not going to get good results without a machine like the Porter Cable Find someone in your area that will let you borrow one

4 - clean the car with klasse AIO, panel at a time and wipe down
is this step required as I am polishing with SwirlX any way ?Using AIO is not needed, you could just give your car another light wash

5 - apply the sealant
big question - > do I use Klasse SG or Wolfgang 3.0 ???if you are using AIO in your last step go with Klasse if you want something that is easier to apply for a begginer use Wolfgang

6 - let it cure and re apply 2 more times at 12 hour intervals.That should be fine

This is my first time trial and I do not want to mess something up? I can learn from mistakes but do not want to spoil something!

Please feel free to say anything, suggestions are welcome.

Cheers
Edits in bold


I would recomend a true two bucket wash with Grit guards and all with a quality shampoo like maxsuds II. Also If you want to get into things and make your life a lot easier get a porter cable you can use that tool for many things. If you want more info go to the ask a pro blog and the detailing guide.
And it would really help me out if you bought things using this link to their website. http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php...ailedimage.com
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      08-03-2011, 03:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x3man1994 View Post
Edits in bold


I would recomend a true two bucket wash with Grit guards and all with a quality shampoo like maxsuds II. Also If you want to get into things and make your life a lot easier get a porter cable you can use that tool for many things. If you want more info go to the ask a pro blog and the detailing guide.
And it would really help me out if you bought things using this link to their website. http://www.detailedimage.com/wax.php...ailedimage.com
Thanks for the input. i will have to look into the porter cable thing. It was too much of an hassle even if I had one!
and regarding the AIO, i gather that it works as a prep for the sealant. but you say it is optional. Is it just a way to clean the paint and not some sort of foundation for the sealant?

I also read that SG is very difficult to work with, but is it difficult if done the wrong way ? or is it generally difficult to work with ?

Thanks again for putting up with my ignorance!

Cheers
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      08-03-2011, 03:09 PM   #7
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Also thank you for the link, presently going through that! that's a wealth of knowledge and resources.
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      08-03-2011, 03:24 PM   #8
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Yeah If you have any other questions feel free to email me at 12berke@gmail.com

With a porter cable there isn't too much of a hassle... I bought one two days ago, and I have tested on some crappy cars like my mothers 2001 Honda accord. She had terrible swirls and scratches and with about an hour of work, her trunk lid looks nearly brand new. It really works wonders. As AIO goes it is basically a chemical cleaner for your paint and if you want to go ahead and do it be my guest its not needed but I would assume it might help the sealant to adhere a little better. Also as far as Klasse HGSG goes I would recommend the WOW method (wipe on wipe off) you can lean more about that method here

Also Read these articles
1.The Multi-purposeful Klasse AIO Why you need a bottle
2.How to properly wash and dry a car
3.How to properly clay


I am sure there is more that you should read and I am just forgetting, but if you want me to put you together a list of materials let me know either through this or through an email. Just give me your budget and what you want to do and I can try to help you out.
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      08-03-2011, 03:39 PM   #9
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Like others have said you won't get much correction by hand and what you do get will take forever. Beg or borrow a DA with pads. ONR is fine for the wash, quite a few pros do ONR washes, maintenace washes might benefit form 2BM wash though. ONR in QD strength is perfect as a clay lube. Klasse twins work well, HGSG is a bit tricky read up on it. AIO is easy and a quality paint cleanser and doing it after a polish is not overkill it will prep the surface perfectly for the sealant to cure and bond. Read the links and articles on DetailedImage prior to attempting these things. Stay from the swirl installers at the car wash.
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      08-03-2011, 03:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Stay from the swirl installers at the car wash.

+1
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      08-03-2011, 03:56 PM   #11
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@ bobble thanks for the input.
I think i will borrow a porter cable from a friend.

@ x3man1994 thanks for your effort, will get to you if I need any information.

The detailedimage is a tremendous site!

and +100 @ stay from the car wash swirl installers!
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      08-03-2011, 04:35 PM   #12
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Buffer:
Portercable

Pads:
Orange, White, Black Pads X2 (atleast)

Polish:
Menzerna SIP Po83
Menzerna 106
Menzerna 203

Sealant:
Blackfire Wet Diamond
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      08-03-2011, 05:06 PM   #13
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Or M105 and M205
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      08-03-2011, 05:40 PM   #14
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Or M105 and M205
I find the Meguiars is hard to finish down, just personal preference. I have a Jet Black car so its crucial to be able to finish down easily.
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      08-03-2011, 06:25 PM   #15
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If this is your first time, I don't suggest polish just yet. Do what you have plan on doing. You will get scratches for you first few times of detailing anyways.

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      08-03-2011, 06:47 PM   #16
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ONR two bucket method as someone mentioned. Wash with little to no pressure.
(yes, self-wash first, just soap and water, no wax)

Dry car with little to no pressure.

Clay bar using ONR as lub would be fine, follow the instruction. Remember to use fine grade clay because you are not doing a machine polish. Rub with little pressure, if contamination still there, take your time rubbing with little pressure, add lub whenever you need to.

Light wash with ONR two bucket and dry

Meguiars Swirl X (no experience with it)

I would ONR heavy dilute in a bottle, spray and wipe the whole car again.

Klasse AIO, as thin as possible, my secret weapon if not able to remove the hard dry sealant, use some water dilute with little ONR and wipe down.

Klasse HGSG, same as above

Wolfgang 3.0 (no experience with it)

And you are done!

Extra info, I would do 2 coat of HGSG separate into 2 days with 12 - 24 hrs cure than do Wolfgang 3.0 after 2 coat of HGSG.

But, if you really going to machine polish soon, 1 coat each would be fine.

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      08-03-2011, 07:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions View Post
Buffer:
Portercable

Pads:
Orange, White, Black Pads X2 (atleast)

Polish:
Menzerna SIP Po83
Menzerna 106
Menzerna 203

Sealant:
Blackfire Wet Diamond
had to look all of it up! but presently I wished to start with what I have. will try the portercable/DA hoping to borrow from a friend.
Just ordered the pads from the site posted earlier.

will see how it goes and will decide from there on.

Thank you!
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      08-03-2011, 07:40 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kcc View Post
ONR two bucket method as someone mentioned. Wash with little to no pressure.
(yes, self-wash first, just soap and water, no wax)

Dry car with little to no pressure.

Clay bar using ONR as lub would be fine, follow the instruction. Remember to use fine grade clay because you are not doing a machine polish. Rub with little pressure, if contamination still there, take your time rubbing with little pressure, add lub whenever you need to.

Light wash with ONR two bucket and dry

Meguiars Swirl X (no experience with it)

I would ONR heavy dilute in a bottle, spray and wipe the whole car again.

Klasse AIO, as thin as possible, my secret weapon if not able to remove the hard dry sealant, use some water dilute with little ONR and wipe down.

Klasse HGSG, same as above

Wolfgang 3.0 (no experience with it)

And you are done!

Extra info, I would do 2 coat of HGSG separate into 2 days with 12 - 24 hrs cure than do Wolfgang 3.0 after 2 coat of HGSG.

But, if you really going to machine polish soon, 1 coat each would be fine.

Kcc

That's a neat write up with what I have. Will definitely follow this procedure with bit refinements. may be soap wash first instead of ONR, and as you stressed ONR spray washes between each procedure.

Regarding the Wolf 3.0 over HGSG. Is it alright, or would there be any incompatibility between the two. ?


Thanks Kcc.

Cheers
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      08-03-2011, 07:51 PM   #19
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As long as you let the HGSG cure there should be no problem at all.
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      08-03-2011, 08:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
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As long as you let the HGSG cure there should be no problem at all.
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      08-04-2011, 09:32 PM   #21
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I have Black Sapphire Metallic too.

The main thing I can add is to be VERY careful about your washing and drying methods. If you pick up some dirt on your wash mitt and don't get rid of it with lots of water and a grit guard, you can scratch your entire car. Here's a few tips:

- The back and lower sides of our cars accumulate the most dirt and grit.
- Always use minimum pressure with the wash mitt and drying towel to minimize the damage caused by dirt on the car, wash mitt and drying towel. You can dry flat surfaces by dragging a towel over the car with no pressure.
- Use one wash mitt for the top and another for the lower sides and back, especially during the winter.
- Never run a towel over your car unless the car has just been washed.
- Wash the mitts and towels regularly.
- Use the best water you can find and don't let it dry on the surface of your car.
- Only "wax" your car right after it's been washed and be religious about keeping your wax pads and towels impeccably clean.
- Be very careful removing bird droppings.

The lighter colors are much more forgiving. BSM and JB require near perfect technique to look great.

I've had my car for 3 1/2 years and managed to keep it swirl and scratch free except for a few very light scratches on the back bumper when I used imperfect technique.

I agree with the other poster that suggested starting with washing and waxing and then moving up to paint correction.

Last edited by driverman; 08-04-2011 at 10:09 PM.
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      08-09-2011, 11:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driverman View Post
I have Black Sapphire Metallic too.

The main thing I can add is to be VERY careful about your washing and drying methods. If you pick up some dirt on your wash mitt and don't get rid of it with lots of water and a grit guard, you can scratch your entire car. Here's a few tips:

- The back and lower sides of our cars accumulate the most dirt and grit.
- Always use minimum pressure with the wash mitt and drying towel to minimize the damage caused by dirt on the car, wash mitt and drying towel. You can dry flat surfaces by dragging a towel over the car with no pressure.
- Use one wash mitt for the top and another for the lower sides and back, especially during the winter.
- Never run a towel over your car unless the car has just been washed.
- Wash the mitts and towels regularly.
- Use the best water you can find and don't let it dry on the surface of your car.
- Only "wax" your car right after it's been washed and be religious about keeping your wax pads and towels impeccably clean.
- Be very careful removing bird droppings.

The lighter colors are much more forgiving. BSM and JB require near perfect technique to look great.

I've had my car for 3 1/2 years and managed to keep it swirl and scratch free except for a few very light scratches on the back bumper when I used imperfect technique.

I agree with the other poster that suggested starting with washing and waxing and then moving up to paint correction.
Just checked this reply! I definitely need to take more care as you mentioned.
Wish I read/asked these earlier :|

I have this blot right in the middle of the hood. bird. *** dropping. Forgot to wipe it off immediately (not knowing the consequence) . When I got the detailing done (about 6 months ago) the guy came back saying that its gotten permanently etched onto the paint. feel like blowing my head!

still thinking whether to get the detailing done by the pro and then start maintaining well, or do the job myself. (close to 300 difference)

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