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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > N54 cam ledge diy



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      04-16-2014, 09:33 AM   #1
Supra2k6
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N54 cam ledge diy

Hi, i just did a quick write up on doing the cam ledge replacement since there is zero info online. Once your in there its pretty straight forward and i want to give a special thanks to http://www.bimmertoolrental.com for their help and guidance and tool. If youre unfortunate enough to have this issue this diy should help you.

READ THIS PAGE ENTIRELY TO MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT MISDIAGNOSE

http://www.brakeandfrontend.com/tech...stored-in-dme/

check correct oil weight

check oil filter cap

Make sure you had enough engine oil at all times before codes

clean vanos solenoids

Replace vanos solenoids.

proceed

Thing you'll need

Cam timing tool --> http://www.bimmertoolrental.com

Timing rail tensioner p/n 11317584723 $39.37 d$36.58

Intake bearing ledge p/n 11127550913 $54.81 d $55.54
11127550913

Exhaust bearing ledge p/n 11127531224 $61.00 $d 50.92

Collar screw p/n x2
D $2.66
11367524954 $2.70

Rectagrind intake p/n x2

11317587757 $5.62 $3.55

Rectagribd exhaust p/n x2
11317587757 $5.62

Put the car on TDC the way i learned was taking sparkplug 1 off put a long screw driver and turn the crank on neutral until the screw driver is at its highest point. Install the tdc pin on the drivers side of the block (remove plastic plug)

To make sure you're on TDC make sure that the last rear lifters are not compressed by the cam lobes ( check the drawing from a couple pics below)

Install the tdc pin drivers side of the block pull the oem plug.

Release the timing tensioner 27mm. Remove the cam gear bolts and vanos plates. With a marker mark the teeth to the chain and zip tie chain to gears.
Remove vanos plates these are interchangeable but i marked them anyways

After removing all top bolts remove one ledge at a time.



Picture of the medal hook rings. New ones are made out of teflon and just slide in

Install the new rings into the cams before installing them into the new ledges use engine assembly oil into every friction parts.


Lower each tray plus cam into location start bolts and tighten them one turn at a time evenly to avoid breaking anything.

Last edited by Supra2k6; 11-18-2015 at 12:04 AM.
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      04-16-2014, 08:29 PM   #2
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Can't wait to see it!! Although I wouldn't have the balls to tackle this....
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      04-17-2014, 10:34 AM   #3
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Very nice. I think this is my problem. Changed both intake and exhaust solenoid, cam sensor,de-carbons and car is still giving me a half check engine light and 2A87 and 3100 code. I might have to go ahead and do this on my own. What kinda of codes were you getting and what made you think this is your problems? Cause I dont want to open everything up and found it wasnt my problems cause those code. And anyone know how much would a indy charge for a job like this?

Thanks
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      04-23-2014, 11:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wanna325i View Post
Very nice. I think this is my problem. Changed both intake and exhaust solenoid, cam sensor,de-carbons and car is still giving me a half check engine light and 2A87 and 3100 code. I might have to go ahead and do this on my own. What kinda of codes were you getting and what made you think this is your problems? Cause I dont want to open everything up and found it wasnt my problems cause those code. And anyone know how much would a indy charge for a job like this?

Thanks
Yes i was getting those codes and going into limp mode no boost. After the vanos replacement and checking if your oil filter cap tip is not broken next step is camledges.

RRT redicuously quoted me between $2500-5500

A reputable local indy here quoted me $1300

Dealer charges around $1100

With parts i spent under $400-$500 maybe less.
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      04-24-2014, 03:36 AM   #5
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Dealer is less then the indy are you sure?
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      04-24-2014, 04:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supra2k6 View Post
Yes i was getting those codes and going into limp mode no boost. After the vanos replacement and checking if your oil filter cap tip is not broken next step is camledges.

RRT redicuously quoted me between $2500-5500

A reputable local indy here quoted me $1300

Dealer charges around $1100

With parts i spent under $400-$500 maybe less.
ok, thank you.

Yeah, i did an oil change with Vanos solenoid.I made sure i have those 2 o-ring at the right place.
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      05-18-2014, 12:40 AM   #7
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It's not that bad of a DIY. I did it without a write up. I bought the tool I did then back in November. But my reading plates were bent.
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      06-02-2014, 03:25 PM   #8
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where did you buy the parts from?
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      11-11-2014, 10:38 AM   #9
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Does anyone know the torque specs for the front cam bolt and all the cam ledge bolts? Need to torque everything down

thanks
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      12-04-2014, 09:26 PM   #10
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Quick question. Did anyone with bad ledges notice shavings in oil? I Have shavings in my oil, and my car isn't knocking. I've drove on it for a week knowing I have shavings, to see if something would give, and I still don't have any un-ordinary sounds.
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      01-09-2015, 01:37 PM   #11
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hey supra i have been reading this post since i have the same problem, one question did you use any special tools to take the cam ledge off?
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      03-27-2015, 09:17 PM   #12
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Why do you zip tie the chain to the cam? If you have to set the timing with the vanos plates.
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      11-17-2015, 04:12 PM   #13
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Supra2k6 How did you troubleshoot your problem to bearing ledges? I do get CEL and MIL lights and as a result limp mode on a constant basis now, just right after I trun the engine on and get codes 2A98, 3100, 2FCA, 2FDA, 2FDB.
Before taking that step and replace bearing ledges I want to be sure it is the right thing to do. Prices for parts went 3 times since 2014, so it is quite an expensive repair even if you do it yourself.
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      11-17-2015, 04:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v_diddy95 View Post
Why do you zip tie the chain to the cam? If you have to set the timing with the vanos plates.
It is just a precausion. Timing chain tends to stretch over time and it does it unevenly. This means that tension on different sections a) between crank and exhaust cam b) between exhaust cam and inlet cam c) between inlet cam and crank will vary. Fortunately in BMWs there are two tensioners, so it is not that important. But if you want to be on the safe side and put everything back the way it used to be, it is a good technique to zip-tie the chain. Of course if you are replacing the chain to a new one all of that is not necessary.
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      11-18-2015, 12:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kukuls99 View Post
hey supra i have been reading this post since i have the same problem, one question did you use any special tools to take the cam ledge off?
there is a special tool that not even all bmw dealerships have. just take them off slowly and keep it leveled NOT one side at a time 1/2 to full turn each side.

Camshafts and hallow so they can snap.
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      07-12-2016, 11:52 AM   #16
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Great DIY write-up
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