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      08-30-2011, 08:59 PM   #1
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335d Custom Intake

Hey everyone,

Some time ago, I decided to make an open filter intake for my 335d. I posted some initial pics on Bimmerforums http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1619848

The original intake was super loud and ran pretty well, aside from going into limp mode every now and again. Based on codes that I pulled using my BT scan tool, it seemed that the issue arose from incoming air being too turbulent to get accurate MAF readings. I had At Speed Motorsports go over the current intake setup (they reported that there really isnt much that can be done, given the fact that the intake tube is very short) and build a custom headshield. They also moved the intake pipe and filter over a bit.

Needless to say, the car runs superb now. The heatshield creates a nice boxed in area, so no more turbulent air. I have my JBD set to 100%, and after several hundred miles of mixed/spirited driving, I can report not one SES light or limping home. The intake got a bit quieter, but you can still hear the turbos loudly sucking in air when in the upper RPM range (2500 and up) and the BOV/bypass valve is still very loud.

Performance wise, the "butt dyno" still says that there is certainly some gain over the stock airbox. The car pulls much harder, seems like it has more torque, and doesnt seem to lose HP/torque towards redline. The car is still nearly silent at part throttle ("regular") driving.

I havent put the car on the dyno yet, but I'll look into doing that sometime soon. Next step is removing the rear catalytic converter and mufflers!
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      08-30-2011, 09:19 PM   #2
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So....what's this cost to get going?
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      08-30-2011, 09:54 PM   #3
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Actually, it wasnt that bad. The setup uses all the stock piping and the filter is attached directly to the MAF pipe. The filter itself is ~$40 on eBay, but the heat shield cost a pretty penny

But, taken into consideration that it was a one-off custom job which they had to take time to design, the price was actually very reasonable. It would probably cheaper now since they could just copy my design.

PM me if you want to know more details about cost
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      08-31-2011, 08:35 PM   #4
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Neovb,
That is a great set up. I will be sending a pm to you for cost. Would you recommend professional install or is it user installable for the DIY guys?
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      09-01-2011, 12:51 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Julesandtrish View Post
Neovb,
That is a great set up. I will be sending a pm to you for cost. Would you recommend professional install or is it user installable for the DIY guys?
Good questions.
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      09-01-2011, 07:52 AM   #6
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The filter attaches directly to the MAF pipe and the heatshield bolts into the stock airbox bolt locations. I'd say installation is an easy DIY.
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      09-01-2011, 09:57 AM   #7
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Is the heat shield necessary? Could one just get the intake and run it that way, or is there some risk involved?
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      09-01-2011, 10:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1n View Post
Is the heat shield necessary? Could one just get the intake and run it that way, or is there some risk involved?
The heatshield isnt necessary, per se. However, when I ran the open element filter without the heatshield, my car would occasionally go into limp mode. Based on what I could determine, this was not caused by high intake temperatures but rather by turbulent air that kept the MAF sensor from getting an accurate reading. In this case, the heatshield plays an additional role aside from blocking hot air - it lessens the turbulence of the incoming air from outside the car. Keep in mind that the setup keeps the stock intake pipes (MAF pipe/sensor assembly and pipe to turbos - as there is almost no gains to be had by replacing them) but removes the restrictive air box.

I've noticed by talking to a variety of 335d owners that our cars pretty much have minds of their own. Some people cant run their JBD at more than 65-70% without throwing SES lights or going into limp mode, while I can run mine at 100% all the time without any issues. You may be able to run an open filter without a heatshield with no issues, while I couldnt.

I would highly doubt that there are any serious risks to running an open element filter without the heatshield. At worst, I'd guess you may just throw an SES light or go into limp mode. If you have a BT cable, you should be able to monitor/clear it.
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      09-01-2011, 10:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neovb View Post
The heatshield isnt necessary, per se. However, when I ran the open element filter without the heatshield, my car would occasionally go into limp mode. Based on what I could determine, this was not caused by high intake temperatures but rather by turbulent air that kept the MAF sensor from getting an accurate reading. In this case, the heatshield plays an additional role aside from blocking hot air - it lessens the turbulence of the incoming air from outside the car. Keep in mind that the setup keeps the stock intake pipes (MAF pipe/sensor assembly and pipe to turbos - as there is almost no gains to be had by replacing them) but removes the restrictive air box.

I've noticed by talking to a variety of 335d owners that our cars pretty much have minds of their own. Some people cant run their JBD at more than 65-70% without throwing SES lights or going into limp mode, while I can run mine at 100% all the time without any issues. You may be able to run an open filter without a heatshield with no issues, while I couldnt.

I would highly doubt that there are any serious risks to running an open element filter without the heatshield. At worst, I'd guess you may just throw an SES light or go into limp mode. If you have a BT cable, you should be able to monitor/clear it.
I've been able to run my JBD at 100% w/o SES or limp (it took a little time for the car to acclimate, mind you), so maybe I'll be one of the lucky ones. I personally have a BT, and the SES doesn't bother me much, as long as it isn't indicative of a code that's affecting performance.
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      09-01-2011, 12:08 PM   #10
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standard set up is very much like 320d. i see you got rid of standard air box, and put a cone filter one. And added the heat shield.

So far so good. But where do you get cold air from? Unless breaking up right front brake air duct / fog light, this set up will be struggling for air?
In my view, because of airflow thru radiator and intercooler, the whole underhood area is under "high" pressure. You "need" ducting to get cold air into the intake.
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      09-01-2011, 02:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F104 View Post
standard set up is very much like 320d. i see you got rid of standard air box, and put a cone filter one. And added the heat shield.

So far so good. But where do you get cold air from? Unless breaking up right front brake air duct / fog light, this set up will be struggling for air?
In my view, because of airflow thru radiator and intercooler, the whole underhood area is under "high" pressure. You "need" ducting to get cold air into the intake.
As far as I can tell, this setup does not struggle for intake air. The "ram air" tube (which, on the factory air box, is the only source of incoming air) is still directed through the area between the heatshield and the headlight assembly. Additionally, there is plenty of gaps between the fender and headlight assembly which provides direct air. While BMW has certainly engineered tight clearance spaces between the fender, bumper and headlights, its by no means 100% restricted with incoming air originating only through bumper/grille.

I cant imagine how a completely open element filter will be subject to less incoming air than a restricted OEM air box with a ~2" tubed inlet from the front air scoops. Correct me if I'm wrong - I'm by no means an expert in physics - but the turbochargers suck in air and create negative air pressure at the intake. If high pressure air exists under the hood (or behind the radiator/intercooler), then it should naturally move towards the low pressure area anyhow.

And in terms of temperatures, incoming air compressed by the turbochargers will be very hot (hence why intercoolers are needed). Feeding actual "cold air" from outside the vehicle into the turbos would probably result in negligible differences in compressed air temperature after the intercooler. This of course assumes that the intake isnt sucking in 220+ degree air from around the turbos - something the heatshield prevents.

Last edited by neovb; 09-01-2011 at 03:04 PM. Reason: Corrected a run on sentence :)
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      09-01-2011, 10:44 PM   #12
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Looks great! Any videos showing difference in cabin sound?
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      10-04-2011, 09:53 PM   #13
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It'd look better with some sort of cover
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      10-05-2011, 01:03 AM   #14
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Cabin sound is awesome. I love the additional acoustics coming from the engine bay. I find myself turning down the radio just to listen to the whoosh of air being sucked in under acceleration and the let off after easing off the gas pedal.

FWIW, I've not had any MAF sensor errors since installation, either, thankfully. No heat shield installed ATM, either.
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      10-05-2011, 09:16 AM   #15
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Fee months ago I talked to a guy from afe and they said.they are working on an intake and they should be available by then end of this year. Maybe if we get more people to contract them it maybe speed up the process.
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      10-05-2011, 03:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1n View Post
Cabin sound is awesome. I love the additional acoustics coming from the engine bay. I find myself turning down the radio just to listen to the whoosh of air being sucked in under acceleration and the let off after easing off the gas pedal.

FWIW, I've not had any MAF sensor errors since installation, either, thankfully. No heat shield installed ATM, either.
What filter did you go with?
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      10-08-2011, 02:37 PM   #17
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Cut down from about 4 minutes worth of video. You can hear on shifting. This is with the windows closed.
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      10-09-2011, 06:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron1n View Post
Cabin sound is awesome. I love the additional acoustics coming from the engine bay. I find myself turning down the radio just to listen to the whoosh of air being sucked in under acceleration and the let off after easing off the gas pedal.

FWIW, I've not had any MAF sensor errors since installation, either, thankfully. No heat shield installed ATM, either.
Ron1n, what size filter did you get? (in inches)? Also, any pics?
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      10-09-2011, 09:27 PM   #19
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Mine looks pretty exactly like his, and I went with a 4" cone.
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      10-10-2011, 09:42 AM   #20
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Thanks. It's going on later today after engine cools.
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      10-10-2011, 09:32 PM   #21
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Installed cone filter tonight and man it is truly something special. The sound is really, really nice. Nice and throaty. Nothing too loud, but for less than $30 and 15 minutes it works. Had some trouble keeping filter from moving around, but finally found a solution that works. Going to try and fabricate a heat shield of some sort tomorrow. Anyway, simply awesome.
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      10-11-2011, 09:17 AM   #22
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The one I bought had 3 rubber rings inside the cone to adjust for size. Ended up leaving the last one in and had to do some serious pushing to get it on, but it's on now, nice and tight. Just made sure that the ring was tight for no slippage or air leaks.
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