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      09-26-2011, 12:56 PM   #23
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and here's why I don't usually track w/18s. At the last event toe got messed up on front right, presumably due to 2 nasty transitions between infield and banked straights. I lost one of my StarSpecs with 1 session left on day 1 due to this issue, and despite the voice in my head telling me to call it a day before it gets really expensive, I continued on with the 2-day event. Here's how the RFT looked at the end of day 2 (right next to its replacement)

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      09-26-2011, 01:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
Note that the StarSpecs are directional so you can only rotate front to back, not side to side. I tend to chew up one side first (left) so it'd be nice to be able to rotate side to side, but I digress...
Since they're directional and you're on square setup, you can always flip the tires. This way you get more life out of the tires. I do that all the time with my directional tires.

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The quest for good pads continues.
Have you tried Carbotech? I was used to Hawk pads in the past (although different car), this time around I went with Carbotech, particularly XP12 front/XP10 rear. They work very well. No fade, very solid brake feel every time. Dust generated by these pads isn't corrosive, and easy to clean off. I can't comment on the rotor wear yet, but from a few forums I've visited, these pads seem to be more rotor friendly when compared to similar race pads.
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      09-26-2011, 08:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by kenneth View Post
AR front mount second oil cooler
Helix intercooler

suspension:
AST 4100 + 350/700 swift springs (set to 5F/7R)
Vorschlag camber kit
Rear lower camber M3 conversion kit
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On the shelf (Racing Brake discs and Porterfield R4-S)

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Dunlop Direzza star spec 255s square

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nice setup man. I have a similar suspension. Do you adjust the vorshlags at the track? I tried to get my shop to give me a dual purpose alignment, with slight toe in so that I could slam on camber at the track (to a pre-set mark- giving me about -3.5) and have slight (read 1/4 inch) toe out. They were reluctant, saying it was causing too much toe. What has been your experience?
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      09-27-2011, 10:32 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
LSD:
I can't possibly imagine going back to a car without LSD for track events. I've spent so much time spinning wheels at turns during the early days it's not even funny. Having all the power available throughout the turn is the determining factor on whether you'll hang with that P-car in front of you or you'll be left in the dust. The Quaife LSD has been flawless so far in this role.


Wheels/Tires:
Decided to go with a square 17" setup as I realized early on that tires would be a major cost. I currently average 10-12 track days per tire set and 6-8 days for pads.

- Kosei K1s are very light and inexpensive. Never had a problem with them and they've been beaten hard at the track for 2 years.
- Dunlop Direzza StarSpecs on the other hand perform very well only within a very specific spec. They tend to get greasy towards the end of the 20-25 minute sessions and god help you if your off from your regular hot temps, you're in for some iceskating. I start at 28/30 (front/rear) cold and get to 36/36 hot. Note that the StarSpecs are directional so you can only rotate front to back, not side to side. I tend to chew up one side first (left) so it'd be nice to be able to rotate side to side, but I digress...
- Square 245/40 setup has proven to be a huge improvement over the staggered stock setup. The car feels balanced, stable with minimal understeer. I can still power slide out at will but the car won't slide out on it's own.

Brakes:
OEM brakes and Hawk HPS fade fast. HP+ are plain horrible. PFC01s don't seem to want to do their "floating" thing well on my car, evident by the clanking sounds they produce, they do brake well though and do not fade. DTC70s chew up rotors for breakfast but stop well and do not fade, they also produce awesome sparks while braking (very cool at night!). The quest for good pads continues.
brakeperformance dimpled/slotted rotors in the front (ok, not "very" slotted anymore since I started using the DTC70 pads), nothing special. Centric rears. Fronts will be replaced with Centric plain rotors when they're worn out.

I'll try to cover other topics tomorrow.
Have you ever tried poterfields? I've had good luck with them... Why don't you like HP+'s? I've had good success with them on my supra although they dust like a mother f.
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      09-27-2011, 05:18 PM   #27
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Crap, so Hawk HPS won't cut it then? Any good alternatives in the same general price range ($100ish for fronts).

Maybe I will try the EBC yellowstuff pads.

Last edited by Stangorang; 09-27-2011 at 05:43 PM.
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      09-27-2011, 06:03 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwong View Post
Since they're directional and you're on square setup, you can always flip the tires. This way you get more life out of the tires. I do that all the time with my directional tires.
Sure, but you have to remount & balance, about $70-80 for 2 tires around here. Front to back swap is free, or rather it just kills my back, that's all :-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by vwong View Post
Have you tried Carbotech? I was used to Hawk pads in the past (although different car), this time around I went with Carbotech, particularly XP12 front/XP10 rear. They work very well. No fade, very solid brake feel every time. Dust generated by these pads isn't corrosive, and easy to clean off. I can't comment on the rotor wear yet, but from a few forums I've visited, these pads seem to be more rotor friendly when compared to similar race pads.
I have not, I've always stayed with Hawk and ventured into PFC a bit but not Carbotech, I'll put them on my list for the beginning of next year. thanks for the feedback.
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      09-27-2011, 06:11 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zazzn View Post
Have you ever tried poterfields? I've had good luck with them... Why don't you like HP+'s? I've had good success with them on my supra although they dust like a mother f.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stangorang View Post
Crap, so Hawk HPS won't cut it then? Any good alternatives in the same general price range ($100ish for fronts).

Maybe I will try the EBC yellowstuff pads.
Here's the problem with these, neither HPS nor HP+ are true track pads, they're hybrids. So they'll last a bit longer than OEM pads but they start fading mid-way into a session where, presumably, you need them to do their job better as you're picking up speed.

My experience with HP+ is that they fade on the track and dust and squeal like there's no tomorrow on the street.
HPS neither squeals nor dusts but simply fades under pressure, they're my DD pads and they're great at that role.
I forgot to mention, I had a brief stint with CC pads last year but for the life in me I couldn't get them to bed properly. No such issue with DTC70/PFC01 etc.

I guess I need to look into Carbotech and Porterfield for next year, thanks for the feedback!
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      09-27-2011, 06:32 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
Sure, but you have to remount & balance, about $70-80 for 2 tires around here. Front to back swap is free, or rather it just kills my back, that's all :-)
Damn....that's expensive. I get all 4 flipped (remounted and balanced) for about $60.
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      09-27-2011, 07:46 PM   #31
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i run HPS up front- terrible on the track. Damn near went off the track. Bad fade
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      09-27-2011, 07:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltraRacer13 View Post
nice setup man. I have a similar suspension. Do you adjust the vorshlags at the track? I tried to get my shop to give me a dual purpose alignment, with slight toe in so that I could slam on camber at the track (to a pre-set mark- giving me about -3.5) and have slight (read 1/4 inch) toe out. They were reluctant, saying it was causing too much toe. What has been your experience?
I had it adjusted for street around -1.9 camber with very little toe-in. I can't remember what the setting was at full -ve camber. Toe-in decreases to roughly neutral when set to full -ve camber for track. It's been great so far, and all 4 tires are wearing out similarly. I still rotate them for good measure. Once they get used up some more, I'll have them switched inside out to get more life out of them.

Yes, I usually max out the -ve camber at the track. And readjust before driving home. I think I won't even bother in the future, will leave it on track setting.

I am due for an alignment!
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      09-28-2011, 11:39 AM   #33
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I'm running Carbotech XP10 front and XP8 rears.

I've done 9 total track days with these pads and haven't gone through a set of rotors yet. I've also put about 20K street miles on them as well.
I do get some pad transfer, but that's about it.
No fade at all and very solid pedal feel.
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      09-29-2011, 12:21 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
LSD:
I can't possibly imagine going back to a car without LSD for track events.
Brakes:
OEM brakes and Hawk HPS fade fast. HP+ are plain horrible. PFC01s don't seem to want to do their "floating" thing well on my car, evident by the clanking sounds they produce, they do brake well though and do not fade. DTC70s chew up rotors for breakfast but stop well and do not fade, they also produce awesome sparks while braking (very cool at night!). The quest for good pads continues.
brakeperformance dimpled/slotted rotors in the front (ok, not "very" slotted anymore since I started using the DTC70 pads), nothing special. Centric rears. Fronts will be replaced with Centric plain rotors when they're worn out.
Peter you need good rotors. Just get zimmerman cross drilled rotors, and simple cheap textar pads. You WON'T be disappointed. Just remember to spray paint the rotor hats before install. I been using these bad boys for well over a year and 4 full track events and counting. Not a hint of fade, and stops on a dime. Brake dust galor though
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      11-01-2011, 03:17 PM   #35
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I recently ordered a set of EBC yellowstuff pads- based upon a referral. I may have them for my track day Friday.
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      06-13-2012, 08:57 AM   #36
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any more input on yellow stuff of DTC 60?
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      06-13-2012, 09:18 AM   #37
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Set-up Update

AR front mount second oil cooler
Helix intercooler

suspension:
AST 4100 + 350/700 swift springs (set to 5F/7R)
Vorschlag camber kit
Rear lower camber M3 conversion kit
M3 sways and shock tower brace
M3 rear subframe bushings

Brakes:
Racing Brake discs and Porterfield R4-S (then HP+ Front, PFC 06 rear)
ECS braided steel lines
Motul RBF 660


Wheels:
Kosei's 17s
Dunlop Direzza star spec 255s square

Wavetrac

Ok, so the Porterfield R4-S being street performance, they "melted" quite fast as more than 50% used after 7 x 20 mins sessions.

Decided to order PFC 08 (endurance) but since these are new for the 335, it will take time to get here. So had no choice but to use HP+ in front and PFC 06 (similar to PFC 08) in rear. Actually the PFC 06 were for the E46 M3 but there was only 1mm difference in height, so it worked. No fading of the HP+, and usage looks great, at high speed and heavy braking track (200 to 100 kmh, 165 to 80 kms, 180 to 80 kmh)..... Pleasantly surprised.......
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      06-13-2012, 07:23 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenneth View Post
AR front mount second oil cooler
Helix intercooler

suspension:
AST 4100 + 350/700 swift springs (set to 5F/7R)
Vorschlag camber kit
Rear lower camber M3 conversion kit
M3 sways and shock tower brace
M3 rear subframe bushings

Brakes:
Racing Brake discs and Porterfield R4-S (then HP+ Front, PFC 06 rear)
ECS braided steel lines
Motul RBF 660


Wheels:
Kosei's 17s
Dunlop Direzza star spec 255s square

Wavetrac

Ok, so the Porterfield R4-S being street performance, they "melted" quite fast as more than 50% used after 7 x 20 mins sessions.

Decided to order PFC 08 (endurance) but since these are new for the 335, it will take time to get here. So had no choice but to use HP+ in front and PFC 06 (similar to PFC 08) in rear. Actually the PFC 06 were for the E46 M3 but there was only 1mm difference in height, so it worked. No fading of the HP+, and usage looks great, at high speed and heavy braking track (200 to 100 kmh, 165 to 80 kms, 180 to 80 kmh)..... Pleasantly surprised.......
PFC08s are available for our calipers? Thanks for this, was looking for something that will last a bit longer than the 01s.

BTW, check your ECS lines, one my fronts started separating at the caliper side from its connector after about a season and a half. (and no, I never hang the caliper off it), just replaced them with Stoptech SS from Harold.
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      06-13-2012, 10:08 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterM1 View Post
PFC08s are available for our calipers? Thanks for this, was looking for something that will last a bit longer than the 01s.

BTW, check your ECS lines, one my fronts started separating at the caliper side from its connector after about a season and a half. (and no, I never hang the caliper off it), just replaced them with Stoptech SS from Harold.
Yes PFC 08 now available for 335. I have also been told that the PFC can be used up to the backing plates practically.

Thanks, I'll keep an eye on the ECS lines.
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      06-13-2012, 10:11 PM   #40
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bump
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      07-02-2012, 01:53 PM   #41
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ended up going with HT-10's. Very pleased with their performance.
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      07-03-2012, 11:11 AM   #42
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Negative 2.8 degrees up front, 2.1 in the rear. If the track is bumpy, if 1=full soft, I set the rebound at 2 front 3 rear. If the track is smooth, 5 front and 6 rear.
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      07-03-2012, 05:02 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
AST 4100's w/ Hyperco 400f 500r
Vorshlag camber plates
BMW Performance strut bar
PFC 06, Stoptech ss lines, Motul 600
Apex Arc-8 17x9.5 et35 square
Hankook RS-3 255/40-17

Negative 2.8 degrees up front, 2.1 in the rear. If the track is bumpy, if 1=full soft, I set the rebound at 2 front 3 rear. If the track is smooth, 5 front and 6 rear.
What's the adjustment range? As in is 1= soft 6=hard?
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      07-03-2012, 06:14 PM   #44
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What's the adjustment range? As in is 1= soft 6=hard?
1 full soft, 10 full hard!
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