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      01-24-2014, 02:36 PM   #1
Aaron_N55
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E9X N55 Problem?

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I traded in my 2012 535xi for a 2011 335xi. About a week after getting the car I got a CEL and took it to my dealership. They believed it was a bad VANOS solenoid. 2 Days later I went to get the car back and before I pulled it out the service area the CEL was already on. I left it there for 2.5 weeks and they replaced the cylinder head, gasket, injectors etc. Both before and after the major repair it likes to rumble randomly at idle whether at a cold start or fully warmed up. Is this normal on E92s N55? If not what can be the solution?
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      01-24-2014, 03:08 PM   #2
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Mileage? Could need a good ole walnut blasting.
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      01-24-2014, 03:12 PM   #3
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Mileage? Could need a good ole walnut blasting.
Bought at 36K about to break 41k. Wouldn't the cylinder head rebuild include the carbon / gunk cleaning?
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      01-25-2014, 11:03 AM   #4
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Why did you trade a 2012 535xi for a 2011 335xi?
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      01-25-2014, 11:25 AM   #5
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Why did you trade a 2012 535xi for a 2011 335xi?
I was about to ask the same.....
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      01-25-2014, 01:28 PM   #6
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Why did you trade a 2012 535xi for a 2011 335xi?
I was about to ask the same.....
I get that question every time. The F10 535xi JB4 was a lease I took over and it was just too luxurious for me. I needed something lighter, stiffer and with a manual transmission.
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      01-25-2014, 02:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_N55 View Post
I get that question every time. The F10 535xi JB4 was a lease I took over and it was just too luxurious for me. I needed something lighter, stiffer and with a manual transmission.
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      01-25-2014, 02:12 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_N55
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Originally Posted by sy2767
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Originally Posted by eyim1988 View Post
Why did you trade a 2012 535xi for a 2011 335xi?
I was about to ask the same.....
I get that question every time. The F10 535xi JB4 was a lease I took over and it was just too luxurious for me. I needed something lighter, stiffer and with a manual transmission.
Seems like a pretty good set of reasons to me- good for you man!
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      01-25-2014, 03:04 PM   #9
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Why did you trade a 2012 535xi for a 2011 335xi?
awesome!
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      01-25-2014, 09:14 PM   #10
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I just want to say thank you guys for seeing the reason for the "down grade" not a lot of people understand my reasoning.
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      01-26-2014, 09:30 PM   #11
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I completely understand your reasoning. I have a evo 8 as my play car and was looking for something more luxurious. After wanting to get a f10 I switched and got the 335i due to it just being lighter and more fun to drive.
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      01-27-2014, 08:08 AM   #12
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I completely understand your reasoning. I have a evo 8 as my play car and was looking for something more luxurious. After wanting to get a f10 I switched and got the 335i due to it just being lighter and more fun to drive.
Exactly, its not always about the year, make and model but what you enjoy driving. Do I miss my F10? A little, definitely softer on NY roads. Would I give up my E92 if I had a chance to go back? Not a in a million years.
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      01-27-2014, 12:26 PM   #13
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Do you have a tune on it? By rumbles in the rpm at idle, are you talking about the idle stumbling randomly and recovering every now and then (IE: normal idle, sudden drop and shake, then recover?)?

If the above is what you're experiencing, run a bottle of techron through the fuel system and see if that clears it up. It could be dirty plugs.

I know I'm not running the same engine, but I've experienced this on multiple occasions over the last 4 years of ownership and it's always when I'm not running Shell 91 for a couple tanks. Can't really explain it but I think it has something to do with the plugs getting carbon buildup. I've never asked any of my techs at the stealership because it just goes away after a good tank of gas. Usually only happens to me after I've been running hard or cruising for long periods of time and then stopping at a traffic light.

Your situation could literally be anything if it isn't what I described above. Plugs need to be changed or just cleaned up, injectors getting gummed up, carbon build up because previous owner used crap fuel (not talking about intake runners, I know we're direct injection), etc. All of these engines like to jump all over the place at idle and never truly settle down for long. I have a theory that the ECU is constantly making adjustments on its own to try and stabilize everything ALL the time which is why these engines always seem nervous and twitchy. I've just got to the point that its perfectly normal and never stressed about it again.
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      01-27-2014, 10:26 PM   #14
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Do you have a tune on it? By rumbles in the rpm at idle, are you talking about the idle stumbling randomly and recovering every now and then (IE: normal idle, sudden drop and shake, then recover?)?

If the above is what you're experiencing, run a bottle of techron through the fuel system and see if that clears it up. It could be dirty plugs.

I know I'm not running the same engine, but I've experienced this on multiple occasions over the last 4 years of ownership and it's always when I'm not running Shell 91 for a couple tanks. Can't really explain it but I think it has something to do with the plugs getting carbon buildup. I've never asked any of my techs at the stealership because it just goes away after a good tank of gas. Usually only happens to me after I've been running hard or cruising for long periods of time and then stopping at a traffic light.

Your situation could literally be anything if it isn't what I described above. Plugs need to be changed or just cleaned up, injectors getting gummed up, carbon build up because previous owner used crap fuel (not talking about intake runners, I know we're direct injection), etc. All of these engines like to jump all over the place at idle and never truly settle down for long. I have a theory that the ECU is constantly making adjustments on its own to try and stabilize everything ALL the time which is why these engines always seem nervous and twitchy. I've just got to the point that its perfectly normal and never stressed about it again.
There is no tune on it currently being the first second-hand car I ever bought I'm worried about what the previous user could've done to it. In terms of the idling it surprisingly does not jump at all. It starts up and drops down to around 600 RPM normally. The F10 535xi N55 I had never did that. I'll definitely run a bottle of Techron through it. Being completely stock I even took the risk and threw in 3 Gallons of E85 and it actually helped a little bit.

I always fill up either at Gulf or BP using 93 Octane. I was planning before even getting the car to get AA Charge Pipe, BMS Downpipe, JB4 and BMS OCC. But this issue is making me hesitate to pull the trigger. I want to make sure everything is running perfectly stock before touching anything else.

I just want to thank everyone for their opinions, tips and information!
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      01-28-2014, 12:02 AM   #15
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Perfectly good set of reasons for the "downgrade". I think that rumble you feel is normal. I have had no cell's at all and from time to time I feel a small rumbling and it goes away. But during the rumbling the idle does not seem to be twitchy at all. If the idle would twitch during the rumbling, then I would have brought it in to the stealership and let the warranty figure it out.

You should be good to go now after they fixed the cel issue. Go for the mods!!!!
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      01-28-2014, 12:46 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron_N55 View Post
There is no tune on it currently being the first second-hand car I ever bought I'm worried about what the previous user could've done to it. In terms of the idling it surprisingly does not jump at all. It starts up and drops down to around 600 RPM normally. The F10 535xi N55 I had never did that. I'll definitely run a bottle of Techron through it. Being completely stock I even took the risk and threw in 3 Gallons of E85 and it actually helped a little bit.
This is perfectly normal so that's a good sign.
The rumble at idle you're feeling is probably completely normal as well but then again, not experiencing it first hand or looking at logs doesn't really give me much room to put some real backing behind that statement.

Gotta remember, you're coming from a newer 5 series which is extremely plush by comparison to a 3 series so whatever you got used to with the 5 series is going to be a rather big change swapping chassis. The one thing I noticed with the F10 550xi I had as a loaner was how incredibly smooth it was. Everything just feels like fluffy clouds. Even hammering that big motor up front did little to upset its manners.

Throw a tune on it, pull some logs on map 0, and post em here. If there's anything unusual with the engine, that's going to be the first place I would want to check.
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      01-28-2014, 01:07 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chronos6
Perfectly good set of reasons for the "downgrade". I think that rumble you feel is normal. I have had no cell's at all and from time to time I feel a small rumbling and it goes away. But during the rumbling the idle does not seem to be twitchy at all. If the idle would twitch during the rumbling, then I would have brought it in to the stealership and let the warranty figure it out.

You should be good to go now after they fixed the cel issue. Go for the mods!!!!
Thanks for your input! Soon as summer hits it looks my order is going in then!
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      01-28-2014, 01:11 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Aaron_N55 View Post
There is no tune on it currently being the first second-hand car I ever bought I'm worried about what the previous user could've done to it. In terms of the idling it surprisingly does not jump at all. It starts up and drops down to around 600 RPM normally. The F10 535xi N55 I had never did that. I'll definitely run a bottle of Techron through it. Being completely stock I even took the risk and threw in 3 Gallons of E85 and it actually helped a little bit.
This is perfectly normal so that's a good sign.
The rumble at idle you're feeling is probably completely normal as well but then again, not experiencing it first hand or looking at logs doesn't really give me much room to put some real backing behind that statement.

Gotta remember, you're coming from a newer 5 series which is extremely plush by comparison to a 3 series so whatever you got used to with the 5 series is going to be a rather big change swapping chassis. The one thing I noticed with the F10 550xi I had as a loaner was how incredibly smooth it was. Everything just feels like fluffy clouds. Even hammering that big motor up front did little to upset its manners.

Throw a tune on it, pull some logs on map 0, and post em here. If there's anything unusual with the engine, that's going to be the first place I would want to check.
I had a feeling that had a major part to do with it. The F10 has like zero road noise and build for comfort while the E9X is more sporty so it makes sense. Hopefully by May/June I'll gather l my performance parts / tires / rims. But until then, I'll just be praying that summer comes sooner. Thanks for the info! Helpful members = great forum!
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      01-28-2014, 06:22 PM   #19
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Does it go into limp mode at all? Did they replace hpfp or lpfp when doing diagnostics? Throw jb4 on it and get some logging going that will tell us much more

Congrats on the trade and 'upgrade'!...
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      01-28-2014, 10:32 PM   #20
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Does it go into limp mode at all? Did they replace hpfp or lpfp when doing diagnostics? Throw jb4 on it and get some logging going that will tell us much more

Congrats on the trade and 'upgrade'!...
Never went into limp mode and they did not replace the HPFP or LPFP. Will try logging as soon as possible. Thank You!
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      01-28-2014, 10:39 PM   #21
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First Video is of a warm start and attempting to show the rumble via a water bottle. I'm coming from a F10 so forgive me if this is normal!



Second Video is of me going to take a glimpse of the oil color to only realize that the oil looks milky on the cap and side wall thingy. Please don't tell me these guys put on the head gasket correctly.

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      01-29-2014, 01:04 AM   #22
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Best advice, do the next oil change, preferably this weekend yourself. Check what it looks like. If in fact it is milky, don't toss it. Bring the car and the old oil with you to the dealer and have them check the engine over. Plus if they replaced the heads and put new hardware on the engine, you will probably want to change the oil regardless. Things are wearing in/breaking in, sort of like a brand new car should be broken in.
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