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      09-19-2011, 07:15 PM   #23
cwn23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENINTY View Post
The BT Scan tool can test the pump for operation. I think the issue you are having is the pump electronics, which are on the backside of the pump motor are starting to fail. When I replaced my pump I got the same code you did but it was after I had disconnected the old pump for removal. I resent the trouble codes prior to installing the new pump.

The electronics start to overheat and degrade, eventually failing. It took my car almost 10,000 miles between the first instances the pump was running slow until it failed. 10,000 miles for me is about 3 months of driving, most people it is more than a year.

This is the dilemma with the pump. It works fine, may throw a code or two once and awhile, but continues to operate. The pump alone costs $400 not including installation, so it is a hard decison to make whether to replace it before it fails or not.
Mine went out from 400 miles from first code to the second and then the dreaded yellow to red engine temp/car overheated symbol!! Cost of the pump for me was 501.50...Where the hell did you get the pump for 400?? If thats the case it was a steal! Thermostat cost me 98.27 cents with the 3 replacement bolts of 11.22 for a whopping price of 610.99
The new replacement thermostat is plastic compared to the original one that I had which was aluminum...Its a fail on BMW part because shit my car only has 8500 miles on a 2007 that I hardly drive and is garaged...Water pump manufactured by one any only Siemens who as we know makes the fuel pump also which mind you is a major fail..They are fail all around I am not sure if I had to change the thermostat but I changed it any way since the water pump was out..
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      09-19-2011, 07:47 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by queensfield View Post
Fuses F07 or F09, depending on N52 or N54, are in the engine compartment fuse panel, and not on top of the battery power distribution panel. F07 and F09 are located on the passenger side near the microfilter once you pop the hood open. The black plastic cover is removable and contains F07 or F09, which are the fuses for the water pump (an exact same black plastic cover is on the driver side underneath which is the brake fluid).

The power distribution panel on top of the battery contains fuses for electronic power steering etc and these are pretty hefty fuses (100 Amp and up).
this is correct. in the N54 its an F07 fuse which is located in the same plastic box as the DME. you've got to remove the microfilter cover and plastic pieces as if you were installing a piggyback. once you lift up the plastic cover to the box where the DME is housed...there is a big 50amp fuse(red) mounted towards the front that is the F07 fuse for the electric water pump. i only know this because my Bentley manual told me so!
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      09-19-2011, 08:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by import36 View Post
this is correct. in the N54 its an F07 fuse which is located in the same plastic box as the DME. you've got to remove the microfilter cover and plastic pieces as if you were installing a piggyback. once you lift up the plastic cover to the box where the DME is housed...there is a big 50amp fuse(red) mounted towards the front that is the F07 fuse for the electric water pump. i only know this because my Bentley manual told me so!
Have you changed out your water pump yet?
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      09-19-2011, 11:16 PM   #26
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Siemens did have major problems with manufacturing, including pumps and electronics. One of Siemens' subsidiary also made a part for Intel servers (silicon carbide diode to replace silicon) and that was a major reliability disaster.

Too bad, BMW did not enforce a strict reliability and lifetime spec on the pump. Now we got to live with the unpredictability of the water pump.
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      09-20-2011, 05:22 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by cwn23 View Post
Have you changed out your water pump yet?
car is still at the dealership.....will report back on what happens.
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      09-20-2011, 07:57 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by import36 View Post
car is still at the dealership.....will report back on what happens.
Damn you went to the dealer fully modded like that! Good luck with warranty work. Hope they don't cope out and say your warranty is voided with water pump. It doesn't take that long to change out the pump, I wonder why it's taking so long
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      09-20-2011, 08:55 AM   #29
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I was also wondering if water pump is failing and since all the electronics are pretty much linked together to the ecu, will a failing pump that's not operating at 100% efficiency make the ecu not allow the car to boost correctly? I mean maybe it's a placebo effect but I felt after I got the car back from my INDY shop, the car felt more responsive as respect to boost
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      09-20-2011, 03:00 PM   #30
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I only have Peake scan tool. Will these water pump codes show if I scan? thanks
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      09-30-2011, 09:49 AM   #31
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sorry forgot to update this...

electric water pump and thermostat replaced...issue resolved. all covered under warranty.
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      10-01-2011, 04:29 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwn23 View Post
Mine went out from 400 miles from first code to the second and then the dreaded yellow to red engine temp/car overheated symbol!! Cost of the pump for me was 501.50...Where the hell did you get the pump for 400?? If thats the case it was a steal! Thermostat cost me 98.27 cents with the 3 replacement bolts of 11.22 for a whopping price of 610.99
The new replacement thermostat is plastic compared to the original one that I had which was aluminum...Its a fail on BMW part because shit my car only has 8500 miles on a 2007 that I hardly drive and is garaged...Water pump manufactured by one any only Siemens who as we know makes the fuel pump also which mind you is a major fail..They are fail all around I am not sure if I had to change the thermostat but I changed it any way since the water pump was out..
I have a 325i, which uses a different pump and t-stat than a 335, which I presume you have. Not sure why BMW has to use a different pump for the N52 vs. the N54.
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      10-01-2011, 07:42 PM   #33
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According to the Bentley Manual the N54 water pump is 400W and the N52 one is 200W. N54 has a bigger radiator so it needs a bigger pump to push more volume.
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      10-02-2011, 08:30 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JunkStory View Post
According to the Bentley Manual the N54 water pump is 400W and the N52 one is 200W. N54 has a bigger radiator so it needs a bigger pump to push more volume.
Makes sense. Turbos run hotter. Maybe BMW should have just made a 400W pump for both the N52 and N54 and just run it a lower speed for the N52... (Would have been my engineering solution)
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      10-02-2011, 11:38 AM   #35
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Makes sense. Turbos run hotter. Maybe BMW should have just made a 400W pump for both the N52 and N54 and just run it a lower speed for the N52... (Would have been my engineering solution)
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      11-18-2011, 09:24 AM   #36
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welp....about two months later.....and my water pump just took a dump again. car started overheating again last night.....and the coolant reservoir cap actually released pressure this time as i had coolant around the outside of the container.
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      11-19-2011, 01:19 PM   #37
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Brutal

2 month old pump died, was it refurbished?
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      11-19-2011, 01:28 PM   #38
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If the pump was new and died- that may indicate some other problem. How is your oil filter housing? Some chunks of gasket getting caught in the pump can clog it.
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      11-19-2011, 10:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
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Brutal

2 month old pump died, was it refurbished?
it was brand new from the dealership...

Quote:
Originally Posted by queensfield View Post
If the pump was new and died- that may indicate some other problem. How is your oil filter housing? Some chunks of gasket getting caught in the pump can clog it.
i'm thinking there may be some other problem too...i just don't know what else it could be. i'll be having the car towed back to the dealership next week. i have no idea how the oil filter housing is....i've always had my oil changes done at the dealership.
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      11-21-2011, 08:36 PM   #40
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Damn I am surprised the dealership is not blaming your mods for your water pump failure...I would be surprised if they do warranty again for you, but good luck with it!
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      11-26-2011, 09:27 PM   #41
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Any good news? I think my water pump just pooped. I did the test it came on, sounded like a mini dish washing machine for the first minute then sounded like a normal electric motor after that. Could not hear water moving around. then it stayed that way for well over 12 mins... More like 30. So I just shut it off. Now it won't come back on. 50amp fuse is good.
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      11-28-2011, 03:09 PM   #42
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Any good news? I think my water pump just pooped. I did the test it came on, sounded like a mini dish washing machine for the first minute then sounded like a normal electric motor after that. Could not hear water moving around. then it stayed that way for well over 12 mins... More like 30. So I just shut it off. Now it won't come back on. 50amp fuse is good.
i'm having the car towed to the dealership tomorrow...so we'll see how it goes. at least yours still turns on when running the test, mine does not activate at all, it's completely dead. did you check the codes?
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      11-30-2011, 09:02 PM   #43
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UPDATE: There was a bad connection at the power distribution block, where the battery is located in the trunk. The bad connection caused the built-in fuse that powers the water pump to blow. The power distribution block was replaced along with the fuse....water pump is back to operating normally.

edit: The fuse I'm referring to is NOT the 50amp fuse located inside the DME box.
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Last edited by import36; 11-30-2011 at 09:03 PM. Reason: added detail regarding the fuse that was blown
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      11-30-2011, 11:22 PM   #44
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Great to read that your problem got resolved.
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