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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Suspension | Brakes | Chassis > How to adjust dampening on rear Koni Yellows/etc



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      09-25-2011, 07:50 PM   #1
gizmo335i
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How to adjust dampening on rear Koni Yellows/etc

I tried to search on this but didn't find much.

Does anyone know where a DIY or can you run me through exactly how to do this?

Mike, I'm sure you'll be first so I'll assume so.

I'm about to install these along with H&R Sport. I have been reading through a lot threads about this setup the last couple days. Man...I thought this was supposed to be a great setup/ride. I read some that said it was but I also read some negative on this. I hope I don't end up being sorry. If I get the install done and the handling isn't that much better, I'll be much better with that than if it ends up being really rough. That's what I'm afraid of.

I had FSD's with H&R Sport before and that wasn't a bad ride. But I guess I started believing it was after reading SO many people saying you DO NOT pair up FSD's with a drop like that.

I really need some advice on what to set these on too. And how can you tell where it's at? I read how you're not supposed to turn them all the way soft or all the way hard. I see 1.5 turns/etc....I just want what most people want....a nice ride/same as OEM ZSP with a little better cornering/handling.
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      09-25-2011, 08:10 PM   #2
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with the koni/swift coilover setup, i have mine set to somewhere between 70 and 80% stiff

YMMV
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      09-25-2011, 09:29 PM   #3
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here's Koni's instructions:

http://www.koni-na.com/comp.cfm

basically, you need to completely compress the shaft and turn the shock body while it's compressed. If you have a bench vise, this is easy to do.

I didn't, so I used a pair of vise grips and clamped them down on the shaft, just below the threads. I then put the top nut on top of the shock, just to give the top of the shaft a little protection.

Then turn it upside down, on a piece of cardboard, wood, etc and push the shock body all the way down. The Vise grips will be sticking out the side and you can hold it steady with your foot.

Now you can turn the shock body (while compressed), and you'll feel the stop at full soft or full stiff. Turning the shock body clockwise while it's upside down makes it stiffer. I turned mine all the way stiff (till it stopped), then backed off half a turn or so.

it's not hard, but if you don't have the vise grips or something that really can hold the shaft from turning, the shaft will start turning when you try to turn the shock, and you won't be able to adjust them properly.

good luck!
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      09-26-2011, 05:24 AM   #4
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The guy I bought them from said he had the rears at 80%.

Man, so you'd have to take these off to change the rear....that sux...
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      09-26-2011, 01:05 PM   #5
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yeah, you have to remove them, but it's not really that hard once you get the trunk linings out. it's 2 nuts, top and bottom, and you don't need to disassemble any other part of the suspension. I did it a couple of times so I got good at it, lol. 10 mins per side (minus the trunk liners which I left out of the car for a while).
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      09-26-2011, 01:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike-y View Post
yeah, you have to remove them, but it's not really that hard once you get the trunk linings out. it's 2 nuts, top and bottom, and you don't need to disassemble any other part of the suspension. I did it a couple of times so I got good at it, lol. 10 mins per side (minus the trunk liners which I left out of the car for a while).
Please inform me how you remove them without removing any other suspension bits or compressing the springs?

OP - I'm satisfied with my Koni Yellows at 50% front / 60% rear. I do track my car monthly, so I wish I had the rears to 75-80% so I can adjust the fronts to match for those days, however, for daily driving it's perfect. They are a good improvement over the ZSP suspension, I think coilovers would be too much for me since I only road race the car once a month (usually 50-100 laps a season).
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      09-26-2011, 02:17 PM   #7
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rear is easy because the springs are inboard and not on the shock, like the fronts are. take your trunk linings out first and take your wheels off. jack up rear end and put it on jack stands. you can do one side at a time, but it's a bit easier if both sides are in the air.

undo top nut, with an open end wrench, or one of those ratchet wrenches (not the socket type), so you can stick the allen head in the top of the shock shaft to keep it from turning while you loosen it.

Undo bottom nut. you *might* need to undo the saddle bushings to make it easier. you can squirt some WD-40 in there tho, and it makes it easy to slide the shocks in/out.

grab shock body and push up, compressing the shock all the way to the bumpstop, then pull the top of the shock down from the mount and hold the top so it doesn't expand, and lift it out. it comes out at a weird angle, so it might take a couple of tries to figure it out.

remove bumpstop, adjust shock, put it all back together, and install it by placing the bottom mount in first, and then let the shock shaft expand and guide it in place to the top mount. Be careful and make sure it goes into the top mount properly.

place jack under wheel carrier and lift the hub up to help get everything seated. quickly check to make sure both top and bottom are in all the way and bushings aren't pinched, then replace tup and bottom nuts and torque them to spec.

now do the other side!
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      09-26-2011, 04:02 PM   #8
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Man, I've been reading through some reviews on this setup today and I've read quite a few that said it is a really rough/harsh ride. I hope I don't end up hating this....

Did you cut your bump stops? Anything else I need to know? How do I know if they're at 50-60-70/etc? I want this to be a comfortable ride...more so than better handling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Syndicategt View Post
Please inform me how you remove them without removing any other suspension bits or compressing the springs?

OP - I'm satisfied with my Koni Yellows at 50% front / 60% rear. I do track my car monthly, so I wish I had the rears to 75-80% so I can adjust the fronts to match for those days, however, for daily driving it's perfect. They are a good improvement over the ZSP suspension, I think coilovers would be too much for me since I only road race the car once a month (usually 50-100 laps a season).
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      09-26-2011, 05:19 PM   #9
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^ It's still very comfortable, but the ride will be a little firmer than stock. If you hit a huge pot hole or one of those 2" concrete lips we have here in CA, it will go bang! Give it a few weeks to settle in and do an alignment, they will soften up. If you set it to (++) or 50% all around that should be about as firm as you want to go. The only thing I would have changed is the ride height, the H&R's had a little too much drop for me, but aestheticlly it looks hot.

x1 full 360 deg turn = 2 clicks (++) or 50%. To begin, turn them all the way to full soft, counter clockwise, and go from there. The rears will turn more than 720 deg, more like 2.5 turns.
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