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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Rob Beck Turbo Install by Sonic MS



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      10-15-2011, 04:58 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syndicategt View Post

I went with Sonic MS. Their reputation in the Bay Area is second to none
Twice I've been there, twice problems with appointment time - someone spaced it out.

No problem with the work once it begins, but oh, mama, there are some issues....on which they are indeed second to none.

They're cosmic dudes.

Last edited by CALWATERBOY; 10-15-2011 at 07:48 PM.
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      10-15-2011, 05:25 PM   #24
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Sorry you had a bad experience. They were very pompt to call me and confirm that I even was running on time and always updated me on the car. They are a busy shop and with so many high end and exotics, I'm sure they have some deadlines to meet.
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      10-15-2011, 06:07 PM   #25
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So, from the looks of it, there was no need to pull the engine out to replace the turbos. That's good! Just the steering rack and heat shields?.. Is that correct?
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      10-15-2011, 06:13 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
So, from the looks of it, there was no need to pull the engine out to replace the turbos. That's good! Just the steering rack and heat shields?.. Is that correct?
Go back to the first page, there is a lot more too it which I posted (front suspension (sway bar), radiator, FMIC, exhaust, DPs, steering rack). You do need to remove 2 of the engine mounts from my knowledge, maybe Sonic/Rob/Lutz or someone who did the install can chime in.
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      10-17-2011, 08:27 AM   #27
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Obviously the underside plastics, the plastics in the engine bay at the firewall, and the engine cover plastic needs to be removed to gain full access to everything. The sway bar and exhaust (rear) do not need removed at all. The radiator only needs need drained not removed (the fan needs pulled out which is pretty easy). The steering rack doesnt need to be fully removed, only it's two mounting bolts need pulled and then it can be pulled forward and dropped out of the way (which shouldnt affect alignment). Nothing with the subframe needs to be loosened/removed, but the passenger side engine mount needs to be pulled to be able to access/drop out the turbos (meanwhile the engine needs to be supported elsewhere). The front inlet tube to the turbo, the downpipes, and the water pump will need to come out. The outlet turbo plumbing to the Intercooler needs to be removed, I believe this is easier when the FMIC is removed. It's really then just dealing with all of the little lines to the turbos, and removing the turbos themselves. The engine definitely does not have to come out in it's entirety, but some with the equipment to do as such may find it easier just to have the space to work in as it's pretty tight and constantly working in that area is fatiguing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Syndicategt View Post
Go back to the first page, there is a lot more too it which I posted (front suspension (sway bar), radiator, FMIC, exhaust, DPs, steering rack). You do need to remove 2 of the engine mounts from my knowledge, maybe Sonic/Rob/Lutz or someone who did the install can chime in.
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      10-17-2011, 08:33 AM   #28
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Rob, thanks for the clarification.
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      10-17-2011, 10:32 AM   #29
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Congrats!! It will be fun once broken in.
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      10-17-2011, 01:46 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobBeck View Post
Obviously the underside plastics, the plastics in the engine bay at the firewall, and the engine cover plastic needs to be removed to gain full access to everything. The sway bar and exhaust (rear) do not need removed at all. The radiator only needs need drained not removed (the fan needs pulled out which is pretty easy). The steering rack doesnt need to be fully removed, only it's two mounting bolts need pulled and then it can be pulled forward and dropped out of the way (which shouldnt affect alignment). Nothing with the subframe needs to be loosened/removed, but the passenger side engine mount needs to be pulled to be able to access/drop out the turbos (meanwhile the engine needs to be supported elsewhere). The front inlet tube to the turbo, the downpipes, and the water pump will need to come out. The outlet turbo plumbing to the Intercooler needs to be removed, I believe this is easier when the FMIC is removed. It's really then just dealing with all of the little lines to the turbos, and removing the turbos themselves. The engine definitely does not have to come out in it's entirety, but some with the equipment to do as such may find it easier just to have the space to work in as it's pretty tight and constantly working in that area is fatiguing.
LOL
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      10-17-2011, 01:58 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff@topgearsolutions View Post
LOL
Thanks for the clarification Rob. I was more than happy to pay someone to do this project. My car would still bet on jack stands in my garage if I have attempted this myself. I know it can be done at home, I just didn't have the time in my schedule.
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      10-17-2011, 02:04 PM   #32
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      10-17-2011, 05:38 PM   #33
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That's Beast. lol
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      10-17-2011, 05:41 PM   #34
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      10-17-2011, 09:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobBeck View Post
Obviously the underside plastics, the plastics in the engine bay at the firewall, and the engine cover plastic needs to be removed to gain full access to everything. The sway bar and exhaust (rear) do not need removed at all. The radiator only needs need drained not removed (the fan needs pulled out which is pretty easy). The steering rack doesnt need to be fully removed, only it's two mounting bolts need pulled and then it can be pulled forward and dropped out of the way (which shouldnt affect alignment). Nothing with the subframe needs to be loosened/removed, but the passenger side engine mount needs to be pulled to be able to access/drop out the turbos (meanwhile the engine needs to be supported elsewhere). The front inlet tube to the turbo, the downpipes, and the water pump will need to come out. The outlet turbo plumbing to the Intercooler needs to be removed, I believe this is easier when the FMIC is removed. It's really then just dealing with all of the little lines to the turbos, and removing the turbos themselves. The engine definitely does not have to come out in it's entirety, but some with the equipment to do as such may find it easier just to have the space to work in as it's pretty tight and constantly working in that area is fatiguing.
So who's up for a DIY project?
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      10-17-2011, 09:55 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brey335i View Post
So who's up for a DIY project?
Judging by the amount of oil my turbos are burning and the accompanying "whining" sound, all this combined with the fact that my warranty expires next month, there is a high chance I'll end up replacing my stock turbos soon...
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      10-18-2011, 12:54 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vasillalov View Post
Judging by the amount of oil my turbos are burning and the accompanying "whining" sound, all this combined with the fact that my warranty expires next month, there is a high chance I'll end up replacing my stock turbos soon...
Let me know how that goes! I'm gonna ask my gf for some RB's for xmas
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      10-18-2011, 02:17 AM   #38
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For you DIY:ers out there

I did the swap to RB:s like this (roughly in this order)

Car on stands

  1. Drain oil & cooling liquid
  2. plastics (engine cover, underside, misc)
  3. Front bumper
  4. Intercooler
  5. Cooling liquid tank
  6. Vacuum tanks
  7. Downpipes & midpipes
  8. passenger side engine mount
  9. outlet turbo plumbing to the Intercooler
  10. Cooling hose from water pump to motor
  11. Oil & waterlines to turbos
  12. Rear turbo
  13. Front turbo

Install in opposite order.
Fitment of RB:s is OEM.
Took me about 16h on my own but it can be shortened if you have some help.
I reused the oil & waterlines to turbos (probably the most difficult part of installation).
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      10-18-2011, 04:47 AM   #39
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kudos to you that DIY it this....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anders View Post
For you DIY:ers out there

I did the swap to RB:s like this (roughly in this order)

Car on stands

  1. Drain oil & cooling liquid
  2. plastics (engine cover, underside, misc)
  3. Front bumper
  4. Intercooler
  5. Cooling liquid tank
  6. Vacuum tanks
  7. Downpipes & midpipes
  8. passenger side engine mount
  9. outlet turbo plumbing to the Intercooler
  10. Cooling hose from water pump to motor
  11. Oil & waterlines to turbos
  12. Rear turbo
  13. Front turbo

Install in opposite order.
Fitment of RB:s is OEM.
Took me about 16h on my own but it can be shortened if you have some help.
I reused the oil & waterlines to turbos (probably the most difficult part of installation).
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      10-18-2011, 05:21 AM   #40
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Thanks for the info, Anders and Rob. Its nice to hear what's involved besides the obvious Bently Manual material. Great pictures, Syndicategt.

I plan on installing upgraded turbos myself when the day comes. I have a few more supporting mods to go.

Syndicategt, please keep us posted on your experience.
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      10-18-2011, 10:38 AM   #41
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How do they feel so far? Do they scream a little more at wot?
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      10-18-2011, 10:39 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Syndicategt View Post
Yes, and you are supposed to change out the fluid at 1,000 miles.

Back to the turbos....you are right, it's like teasing a fat kid with cake. I did get her up to 17 psi today..... On Wed night I'm heading to Sac Raceway, I'll be gingerly launching the car but will get on it in 3rd gear. (Race Gas + 50% meth)




Yes, I'm heading to his shop in a few weeks. We are going to load some of the aggressive maps and wire in my Aquamist to the PROcede for extra failsafes. Will hopefully report back with some dyno numbers.
Crank That Bitch to 18+ PSI!!!
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      10-18-2011, 11:06 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by golfrsi View Post
How do they feel so far? Do they scream a little more at wot?
Yea they scream all the time! Sound so much nicer than the stock, you can really hear them spool even under light load.

Quote:
Originally Posted by golfrsi View Post
Crank That Bitch to 18+ PSI!!!
I'll be going to 17 psi this week, slowly increasing it over time to compare datalogs making sure everything is running ok.
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      10-20-2011, 06:00 PM   #44
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Any dynos yet?
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