-Bosch alternator wrench; I got mine from Amazon, labeled as "CTA Tools 8088 Alternator Wrench": http://www.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-8088.../dp/B005OH0LU8
-Ratchet(s) (1/2" drive required for alternator wrench)
-17mm wrench (preferably one that can give you good leverage)
-Torque wrench capable of 80 Nm, or 59 ft-lbs
-17mm Flare nut socket
-22mm socket (if you plan on turning the crankshaft to test pulley operation afterwards; highly recommended. No whammies.)
So the unspoken rule of being a backyard mechanic is that in order to fix something, you shouldn't be afraid -- and should expect -- to break both the part that you're fixing, as well as one or more parts that may or may not be related to said part the fix was intended for. You follow this guide and break stuff, I'm not responsible. I'm broke because of this car, anyway. I'd never be able to reimburse you.
3) Remove diverter valve connector (absent in picture, but it's a simple twist-lock connection)
Radiator fan removal
4) Unscrew radiator fan near passenger side headlight (T25)
5) Unclip radiator fan connector near driver side headlight. Free wire from clips and set aside.
6) Unclip wires and hoses above fan, set aside.
7) Unclip right side of fan from lower chargepipe (I'm not exactly sure how to go about this since I have an aftermarket FMIC, sorry)
8) Unclip radiator fan and pull fan upwards out of engine bay. If you have an oil cooler it's going to be an extremely tight fit, but doable. Pay close attention to the plastic tabs protruding from the front bumper. They'll catch at a couple points while you're lifting the fan out.
Front intake pipe clearance
9) Trace along the front intake pipe and undo two screws (T30; T25 will work in a pinch)
10) Unclip metal line beneath intake pipe.
11) With the intake pipe unbolted, you should be able to move it out and downward enough to fit your T60 bit into the belt tensioner. If your ratchet is low profile, you can just pull the pipe slightly toward you like I did. Turn the tensioner clockwise and remove belt from the pulley.
12) Remove the cap from the alternator pulley with a flathead. Insert the spline socket onto the pulley, put the box end of your 17mm wrench over the socket, and insert the shaft through the center of socket. I forgot to get a picture of the tool on the pulley, but it's pretty self-explanatory once you're at this point. Here's a picture of the tool:
Make sure you're turning the socket counterclockwise and not the shaft, such that you're rotating the pulley counterclockwise. The 1/2" drive ratchet attached to the shaft should be going clockwise, in the tighten direction.
12a) I wasn't able get enough leverage using the 17mm wrench with my spaghetti arms, so I used a 17mm flare nut socket and a ratchet instead. That sucker was on tight. When it finally broke loose the socket went flying into some deep recess of my garage. I seriously thought I had broken something.
New ECSTuning pulley on left, old pulley on right.
13) Install new pulley and torque to 80 Nm (or 85 Nm*).
Thank you for this DIY. I'm about to order the Gates brand pulley and undertake this myself. Did you have to uninstall the alternator, or were you able to replace the pulley without taking the alternator off?