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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Wheels and Tires Forum Sponsored by The Tire Rack > super concave idea (no pix its an idea)



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Wheel offset calculator courtesy of BimmerPost.com. You may use this calculator to calculate what tire sizes you might need if you upgrade your tires, or what wheel sizes/offsets are compatible with your car.
    Current Wheel Width  inches             Current Wheel Offset  mm.
         New Wheel Width  inches                  New Wheel Offset  mm.
 
TIRE WIDTH
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ASPECT RATIO
- WHEEL DIAMETER
ORIGINAL TIRES
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NEW TIRES
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Based on your stock wheel setup, your new wheel will have:
Original Tires Diameter (in.)
      New Tires Diameter (in.)
  Difference in diameter (in.)
           Percent Difference %
                     
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      06-11-2007, 08:35 AM   #1
ricekikr
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super concave idea (no pix its an idea)

people who have ch's in m3 offsets have really nice concavity with the price of rubbing really badly sometimes even when the fenders are rolled..

anybody have 19x8.5 rears with et 13-20? it will stick out as much as 19x10 with 30 offset (accdg to a regular poster, dint post his name coz im too lazy to ask permission) but i bet this will be a lot more concave! probably close to 19x9.5 et 22, im sure it will be more concave than 19x9.5 et 30..

any pics?

now why not staggered?
*some rims i like dont offer rear offsets less than 40
*rubbing with low offsets
*less weight
*tires (not rims) can be rotated (labor here is cheap)
*less cost of tires
*less tramline (i think)
etc.
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      06-11-2007, 10:04 AM   #2
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That's an idea. Even at E.T. 13 and 19x8.5, the rear tires will offer more clearance on the outside edge by 2mm, using the wheel calculator above. Quite frankly, I'm not sure about the concavity comparison.

Personally, I feel that 8.5 is going to look very dinky, especially when looking at the car from behind. The easiest thing you could do is to take off your existing front wheels/tires, place them at the back and see what they look like.
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      06-11-2007, 11:47 AM   #3
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The concavity of a wheel is not only going to depend on the offset. The wheel width will play a major part.
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      06-11-2007, 09:51 PM   #4
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MORR,

I hate to be a dick, but just curious - why would you reply to this post and not reply on your thread at all? esp. with all the changes you are proposing and how far behind schedule things are, I think you are not being prudent in regards to your business sense... it only takes seconds to update people on a 55-page thread with 50+ GB participants that have already plopped down $2k+/each...

**END RANT**

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      06-11-2007, 11:01 PM   #5
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Personally, for our velocity motoring wheels, the concave shape/nature of the wheel depends primarially on the wheel's width. From 8.5 to 9.5, there is a huge noticable difference, however, going from a ET30 to a ET22, for example, you won't notice that much of a difference.

Other wheels and manufacturers may have varying differences in how the wheel's shape is like.

I've ran so many wheels, tires, suspension, various setup combinations/mixtures/etc/whatever, that at this point, I feel like I can give a lot of on hand personal experience, vs what I've read or heard.

Realistically, if you really wanted to run a certain wheel set up, there is nothing that is limiting you from doing so. (of course, don't take this literally to the extremes)

Staggered is a preference thing. I personally run the same sized wheel/tire all around on all of my cars/wheels. This allows a neutral set up, which I can later on control over/understeer, by changing the suspension set up slightly and tire pressures.

This of course, applies to me, and possibly a lot of other people too. Some people may run wider in the rear, but that is because they need the extra rubber for the power they are putting down, or they are tracking their car.

The weight difference depends on the wheel and how much wider it is. For the most part, it is fairly negligable. Possibly one or less lb difference. The CSL 19x9.5" is only 25.5 lbs, meanwhile, the 19x8.5" is only 25 lbs. A half lb difference. You can probably save more by choosing a lighter tire.

I also run the same sized tire all around, for the same reason you listed, I can rotate my tires/wheels. Some may say that this isn't good, cause the tires wear individually of each other, and it won't be the same if you try to swap/switch the tires around. Although true to an extent, I say, if you aren't tracking, then don't worry about it.

Again, depends on the tire width, cost may not vary too much, etc, but yea, generally wider tires cost more.

Wider tires will cause you to tramline slightly more, and thiner tires will usually give you better traction in wet conditions.
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      06-11-2007, 11:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bzabodyn View Post
MORR,

I hate to be a dick, but just curious - why would you reply to this post and not reply on your thread at all? esp. with all the changes you are proposing and how far behind schedule things are, I think you are not being prudent in regards to your business sense... it only takes seconds to update people on a 55-page thread with 50+ GB participants that have already plopped down $2k+/each...

**END RANT**

BZ
PM'ed.
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      06-12-2007, 07:40 AM   #7
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I feel that 8.5 is going to look very dinky
=but wont 8.5 et 13 be better than 8.5 et 40 +15mm spacers.. there are varied opinions about spacers,, havent personally used any...

the concave shape/nature of the wheel depends primarially on the wheel's width
=velocity primarily makes replicas right? i noticed that most replicas dont change the shape of the rim, regarding concavity and offset, i think replica manufacturers copy one shape per width (8.5/9.5/10 etc) and adjust offset by the amount of machining they do to the hub? im guessing here..

=when i look at the bbs CH m3 offset vs non m3.. the concavity is very very noticable.. but again, like u said, diff manufacuters have different methods..

edit: what about rims with lips? oh and will the center bore be important? coz most et 15 8.5s have a center bore for the 5 series..
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      06-12-2007, 10:42 AM   #8
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Of course anything closer to your stock offset (I would say within like 10-13mm is fine) will be better, for most people. Although you do get a wider track when running spacers or a lower offset wheel, you also run the risk of wearing out certain suspension parts quicker, if you aren't using the right type of spacers. Run a wheel without spacers if possible, if not, it isn't that bad to run spacers, as long as they have a beveled lip on it, like H&R's design.

I've ran 5, 10, 18, and 20mm spacers on my cars. The 18mm set was from a friend, they were generic spacers, and they made my steering wheel shake like crazy.

VM's wheels do get slightly more of a concave with a lower offset, although it is mainly dependent upon the width.

Yes, center bore is important, you have a 72.56 center bore, while the 5 series has a 74.1 center bore. Luckily for you, you can just purchase some fairly inexpensive hub centric rings, so that they will fit. They are like $3-5 dollars each, and most wheel/tire stores can order them for you.

Rims with lips get slightly trickier, but I mean, same idea, depends on the manufacturer.
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      06-12-2007, 09:58 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MORRAlloys View Post
PM'ed.
Thanks for the PM - sorry to be an ass and get off-topic on your thread OP...

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