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      12-26-2011, 11:51 AM   #133
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Wanted to log a full run on nitrous but my testing grounds was blown up with cops waiting to catch people speeding so I had to just turn around and just do a half ass 5th gear run!
Logs look healthy though as you can see A/F is very steady around 12.2-11.1 and no longer wavy like the other log I posted earlier in the thread...Aquamist flow sensor is just smooth! Timing is perfect. From this log the car is very happy and everything looks safe as can be..Without nitrous the flow sensor reading is 21 and with nitrous and the power nozzle the flow reaches 28-29 and holds there..
Notice the slight wheel spin at 5500 rpms in 5 gear!!! That's some crazy power there!
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      12-27-2011, 02:55 PM   #134
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At this point the car is running perfect since I addressed my flow sensor issues and the logs show consistent and safe power on nitrous. This spring I am finally going to Englishtown on test and tune night to see what this bad boy can do on 1/4 mile strip. I have the car dialed in perfect with the .20 jet.
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      12-27-2011, 02:58 PM   #135
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At this point the car is running perfect since I addressed my flow sensor issues and the logs show consistent and safe power on nitrous. This spring I am finally going to Englishtown on test and tune night to see what this bad boy can do on 1/4 mile strip. I have the car dialed in perfect with the .20 jet.
I know all of the info is scattered in this thread, but Perhaps you could post a clear and concise rundown of everything you purchased/hooked up, and how you've got it activated and tuned?

That'd be greatly appreciated..
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      12-27-2011, 03:08 PM   #136
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Okay. I will for those that want to think about Nitrous with Procede in the future. It's pretty basic and simple but I will go into details of what I bought And installation of the parts
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      12-27-2011, 06:44 PM   #137
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Here is what I bought from Nitrous Express and Snow Performance and Dyno Tune

1 EFI Dry single nozzle system PN 21000-05 $410.78 I opted for a 5lb bottle and you can get a 10lb bottle with the kit if you want, but will cost more than what I stated. The kit comes with nitrous solenoid, micro-WOT switch, all nitrous lines, dry nozzle, fittings, relays and all the necessary hardware to complete a basic nitrous kit. In addition to the basic kit you will need to buy the following: Some are optional

2 Nitrous pressure guage PN 15508 $28.01

3 Remote bottle opener PN 11107 $268.87(optional for lazy people like me)

4 Digital window switch PN 18959 $173.65

5 "Iceman" purge kit PN 15603 $128.84

6 -4 Bottle Heater PN 15940 $247.40 (not needed if you live in a warm climate)

7 Snow Performance solenoid upgrage #40060 $50

8 Snow Performance Union T #82040 $15

9 Extra meth lines $20 bucks

10 Dyno Tune...High Flow Billet Nitrous Filter 29


Grand total of 1371.55 just for the parts, plus some other miscellaneous expenses( shipping and handling). My kit has all the bells and whistles and you probably can save by not getting the remote bottle opener. I am using a Stage 2 Boost Cooler kit from Snow Performance that works off boost pressure and progressively injects according to set boost (PPS kit). The cheapest way is going with a JB4 since it has nitrous integration, but if you want to stay with Procede tune this is the way to go.

You will need to have a elbow with 3 bungs if you do not want to tap into the plastic outlet from the intercooler like I did, but if you want the same setup as mine, then all you need is two bungs at the elbow and tap the plastic intercooler piping..NX kit comes with a nozzle adapter for this application so you need to drill the hole and add the nozzle adapter to the pipe and then screw in the dry nitrous nozzle..You can pick a nice elbow with bungs from AR Design. The placement of the methanol nozzles should be closer to the throttle body then the nitrous dry nozzle, as you dont want the methanol to freeze from the cold nitrous spray, and allow the methanol to atomized well before the nitrous is sprayed...Even if the meth injectors are inches apart which most have this setup from nitrous dry nozzle, the difference is significant.
I have my even further apart as I tapped into the intercooler plastic piping and added the dry nozzle there. I then bought AR's elbow with 2 bungs.. The distance from the nitrous nozzle and meth nozzles is roughly 5 inches apart and IMO it allows for a perfect mix of both nitrous and methanol..

Next thing you need to do is find a location to mount your nitrous solenoid and the meth(nitrous solenoid)...This part you need to decide for yourself but keep both solenoids close together as they need to be wired in series to each other, NX kit comes with mounting brackets to help you with installing the solenoids... Once you have the solenoids installed securely you can procede with the wiring and running the new meth fuel line to the solenoid you just installed

Next thing is is to run the meth line from your existing meth system...Hook up the Union T right after your flow sensor to make another meth fuel line run to your new meth/nitrous solenoid and insert the fuel line to your new meth nozzle you just installed to the elbow...This meth solenoid will only open when the nitrous is triggered. If this meth/nitrous solenoid is open, you are already injecting meth from your regular meth system parameters, but its just opening another line to spray meth( which is power nozzle to further increase fuel for nitrous burn)




It all starts with the relay in triggering the nitrous and meth power nozzle
Start off by connecting the positive wires from both the nitrous solenoid and the meth solenoid to the relay pinout 87 Also run a wire from pin 87 to the cabin area as this will be your LED nitrous indicator. The remaining wires from the nitrous solenoid and meth soleniod goes to ground(chassis)..Pinout 30 goes directly to the battery with an inline fuse of 30amps. Pinout 85 runs into cabin area where you hook it up to a on/off master arming switch (basically get switched power and then hook up pin 85 as the accessory wire)

Need to run 3 wires into cabin : Ground wire, switch power wire and the activation wire (for led indicator)

Pinout 86 is the main activation line which is (ground) Run this wire into cabin area and then hook it up to the micro-switch which I installed on the throttle pedal (it has two connections which basically if both touch it will complete the line). I drilled it into place making sure when the throttle is pressed fully it hits the micro-switch to trigger it.. Its pretty easy to do as there is a metal aluminum arm that you can bend into shape to make contact with the pedal at WOT. After running the ground wire from pinout 86 to the microswitch...The micro-switch has two connectors, connect the ground wire to either connectors....Then get another black wire and connect the other side and run this line to a momentary trigger button( I custom fab one into my shift knob). This momentary switch also has two connection points. Connect the wire from the micro switch to one end and the other end make a new line which will run to the RPM window switch ground output wire ....At this point it would be a good idea to hook up a led trigger light to the ground wire also...Just hook the ground side of the led light somewhere in between the momentary switch and the RPM window switch and the positive end to pin 87 of the relay that you ran earlier(so yes there are 3 wires that need to go into the cabin area, 2 if you decide you dont want the led indicator light) So basically when the nitrous solenoid and meth/nitrous nozzle is triggered to open, it will also complete the led connection and light up to show the solenoids are open and your spraying and injecting nitrous. ..The RPM switch will give the ground to the relay once it meets the window to operate..All other times the ground line will not output ground and the nitrous can't activate...If all 3 parameters are not met at the same time, the ground wire to the relay to activate the nitrous and the power meth nozzle will never happen...Even if the rpm window was giving ground to the output, if the nitrous trigger button is not pressed or the micro-switch is not activated by the throttle (not WOT) then it still wouldnt trigger the nitrous..Wiring the RPM window switch is simple...ALl you need to do is follow the wiring instructions and as for the RPM signal from the ecu wires, you need to refer to FormerboostedIS thread on this....


I am no guru when it comes to DIY like FormerBoostedIS, as someone asked me to give some kind of details to my nitrous setup...Refer to his thread on how to get switched power and finding the rpm wire from the ECU...You also use his thread to find DIY on hooking up the remote bottle opener, runs the nitrous lines, bottle heater, purge kit and everything else I listed above..He is my inspiration to install nitrous in the first place, and his thread although his setup is different, it basically has all the tidbits that you need to hook up the nitrous kit.. I just gave you my basics of my own personal setup.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=354785

My setup is basically a very conservative nitrous application as I am only using a .20 jet. My system may be used on a daily basis if I wanted. Logs show safe and consistent power. One last thing I will add to my nitrous setup is when Dyno tune comes out with their new switch that has lean/run protection which can be added to our widebands directly without any external wideband monitors.

I know it sound confusing the first time you read it, but read it again and again and you will get a clearer picture of what i did..

Here is the relay wiring you need in simple terms

Pinout 87 power wire of nitrous and meth solenoid and led indicator
Pinout 86 from relay------micro-switch-----Momentary switch----output ground wire from switch---window switch ground to chassis
Pinout 85 into cabin for switched accesssory power
Pinout 30 straight to battery with inline fuse of 30amps

I am running the 7-11 maps...I have boost for map 1 set to 15psi and with 50% ign correction and map 2 boost set to 15.5 ignition to 10%. Timing is perfect so there is no need for adjustments as its a steady 10degrees across the run with nitrous..I have methanol injection progressively spray starting at 7psi and full at 11psi using a M10 nozzle rated at 625 ml/min..THe power nozzle is a M7 nozzle rated at 375 ml/min. When conditions are met with the ground wire, the nitrous will spray along with the power meth nozzle. The nitrous spray(.20 jet) along with 1100+ ml/min should be enough for the fueling aspect for the nitrous.
You should always do logs to see how the car is reacting to the nitrous and methanol before you procede to increase the nitrous jet size. Make sure the A/F is rich, somewhere between 12.2 and 11s, and timing is steady with no drops. If logs show the car is reacting good to the nitrous and methanol, then you have your car tuned efficiently to the performance gains of the nitrous shot you are using...Each time you move up the nitrous jet, LOG and LOG again to see how car is reacting. Not doing so will, and can cause engine damage because you are blindly increasing performance without knowing how the car is reacting. Dont ever do this! If you dont want to log the car to see how it is performing, maybe nitrous is not for you then

Whether you want it setup like mine or just for occasional drag strips is up to you...I am only using a .20 jet and my setup can be used at and given moment...Larger shots you need to be more cautious as the larger the jet the more chances things can go wrong..Large jet sizes for our application would be .31 and above..

I included pictures of the triggering modules I used for triggering ground to relay...All three are wired in series with each other to the relay's ground pin...Please when wiring the relay, THE COLOR OF THE WIRES doesnt mean a thing! Follow the directions of what corresponds to what..For instance white is for ground and black wire is for +12volt battery connection!!! Be cautious and remember this!

I have included pictures of my location of my dry nozzle with adapter and AR elbow with 2 bungs, and picture of the placement of the nitrous solenoid and purge valve, and meth power solenoid with my custom fabricated bracket, its near the side of the driver's side shock tower. I have also posted a pic of my custom nitrous triggering button that I have on my shift knob..Take your time installing each piece of the hardware and dont rush. You can make it as neat as possibly with careful planning. My kit took over 2 weeks to install...If you respect nitrous and not go overboard, its one of the best mods money can buy..Gains with even a small jet of .20 are substantial, as I can feel the difference when its not spraying and just on meth alone...Good luck if you guys want to do this, and if you have any questions feel free to pm me for more info if you need it..
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      12-27-2011, 07:28 PM   #138
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At what rpm is the nos activated? Looks like your meth is coming in a bit late?
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      12-27-2011, 07:53 PM   #139
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      12-27-2011, 08:12 PM   #140
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.

BTW GeorgeSmooth...Did you get your car up and running again??
9ar is running fine. I fitted a new tranny and am keeping the power at 500whp and it seems to be lasting. Only change after the NX solenoid failure is I am using NOS solenoids. I am also running the solenoids as seperate stages now with the fuel being activated 100rpm before the nitrous. I was getting a lean spike prior to this upon activation.
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      12-27-2011, 08:43 PM   #141
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9ar is running fine. I fitted a new tranny and am keeping the power at 500whp and it seems to be lasting. Only change after the NX solenoid failure is I am using NOS solenoids. I am also running the solenoids as seperate stages now with the fuel being activated 100rpm before the nitrous. I was getting a lean spike prior to this upon activation.
Whoa your NX fuel solenoid got stuck open or the nitrous solenoid? Must have gotten dirt in there...Good to get a nitrous filter to help prevent that..I have meth injected (700+ml/min) well before the nitrous activation and the meth volume I am injecting is probably overkill for such a small shot that I am using (1200+ml/min)...How big of a shot were you doing? I keep it simple and play small with nitrous and not looking for maximum gains. My setup is for all purpose everyday usage and not mainly for 1/4 drag strips..
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      12-27-2011, 09:27 PM   #142
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Whoa your NX fuel solenoid got stuck open or the nitrous solenoid? Must have gotten dirt in there...Good to get a nitrous filter to help prevent that..I have meth injected (700+ml/min) well before the nitrous activation and the meth volume I am injecting is probably overkill for such a small shot that I am using (1200+ml/min)...How big of a shot were you doing? I keep it simple and play small with nitrous and not looking for maximum gains. My setup is for all purpose everyday usage and not mainly for 1/4 drag strips..
I had the nitrous solenoid fail but in my case wouldn't open. We shorted the wiring my twisting the solenoid in its holder. I rune two nos filters one in the back and one in the front to play it safe.
I have gone as big as a. 47 jet but now run a 29 on the nitrous side. Donnt forget I am also running the rb turbos.
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      12-27-2011, 10:05 PM   #143
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I had the nitrous solenoid fail but in my case wouldn't open. We shorted the wiring my twisting the solenoid in its holder. I rune two nos filters one in the back and one in the front to play it safe.
I have gone as big as a. 47 jet but now run a 29 on the nitrous side. Donnt forget I am also running the rb turbos.
I am not quite understanding this...If your nitrous solenoid failed to open and your fuel solenoid opened, wouldnt you see rich conditions if anything?

Damn your the first to run nitrous with the RBs...Car must be quick as hell.
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      12-28-2011, 08:18 AM   #144
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I am not quite understanding this...If your nitrous solenoid failed to open and your fuel solenoid opened, wouldnt you see rich conditions if anything?

Damn your the first to run nitrous with the RBs...Car must be quick as hell.
You are correct, the car over fueled but no gas. The solenoid failed due to damage caused by fitment so it was no biggy.
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      12-28-2011, 12:55 PM   #145
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You are correct, the car over fueled but no gas. The solenoid failed due to damage caused by fitment so it was no biggy.
Glad u got it working! I just tried to log a full run and the bottle ran dry of nitrous Car was pulling hard and then I felt the car surge and then I aborted the run as I knew the nitrous bottle was empty! Just brought the bottle to get filled..


LOL I went from not using the bottle for two years with the system installed, to spraying it as much as I can! Went through two 5lb bottles and on my 3rd refill since 10-22 when I made this thread
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      12-28-2011, 02:04 PM   #146
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Glad u got it working! I just tried to log a full run and the bottle ran dry of nitrous Car was pulling hard and then I felt the car surge and then I aborted the run as I knew the nitrous bottle was empty! Just brought the bottle to get filled..


LOL I went from not using the bottle for two years with the system installed, to spraying it as much as I can! Went through two 5lb bottles and on my 3rd refill since 10-22 when I made this thread
I dont run dry often I got two of these bazookas

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      12-28-2011, 02:10 PM   #147
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HOLY SMOKES!!! George that looks like a torpedo!!! My 5lb bottle looks dwarf against your 15lb bottle!
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      12-28-2011, 04:57 PM   #148
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Great write up and pictures 'cn
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      12-28-2011, 06:40 PM   #149
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Great write up and pictures 'cn
Thanks! Its not the best writeup with corresponding pictures but it will do!

I just got my 5 lb bottle filled at a new place! Charged me 25 bucks That's a small price to pay for such a close location to my house.

This place actually told me to drop off the bottle and come back because they had to chill the bottle in the freezer before they fill it with nitrous. The other location didn't do this
I read that chilling a bottle can get more nitrous to fill into tank..Is this true?
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      12-29-2011, 07:05 AM   #150
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Thanks! Its not the best writeup with corresponding pictures but it will do!

I just got my 5 lb bottle filled at a new place! Charged me 25 bucks That's a small price to pay for such a close location to my house.

This place actually told me to drop off the bottle and come back because they had to chill the bottle in the freezer before they fill it with nitrous. The other location didn't do this
I read that chilling a bottle can get more nitrous to fill into tank..Is this true?

Chilling the bottle does indeed get more nitrous in. A lot of places use this technique that do not have a proper nitrous filling station.
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      12-29-2011, 02:31 PM   #151
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Wow just took out the car with a freshly filled bottle of nitrous, and damn night and day! WOW...Bottle pressure at 1050 and when the nitrous hit, boy you felt it big time! 3rd to 4th gear

Logs show A/F when nitrous hits hovering around 12s and 11s and timing was at 10 degrees..
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      12-29-2011, 02:41 PM   #152
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Nice! Having good power at 15psi is cool stuff.

In your butt's opinion, how many horsepowers do you think you're at with the .20 nozzle, 1k no2 pressure and 15psi?
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      12-29-2011, 03:29 PM   #153
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Nice! Having good power at 15psi is cool stuff.

In your butt's opinion, how many horsepowers do you think you're at with the .20 nozzle, 1k no2 pressure and 15psi?
On a full bottle with .20 jet at least 35-40HP at 15 psi with bottle pressure at 1050psi...Today on a full bottle I really noticed a difference than on an almost empty bottle. I had no idea on my last run that I was empty on nitrous, well I had an idea but I guess I overlooked it! The hit was more noticeable for sure this time..I could probably turn up the boost to 16.5 psi and it would probably be more like 50hp I would think, but I am happy with what I have now...Beggars cant be choosers kind of thing!!
Nitrous is so much fun to drive and use, knowing that its relatively on the safe side based on my numerous logs on nitrous, that the car is running healthy and strong..
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      12-29-2011, 03:35 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by cn555ic View Post
On a full bottle with .20 jet at least 35-40HP at 15 psi with bottle pressure at 1050psi...Today on a full bottle I really noticed a difference than on an almost empty bottle. I had no idea on my last run that I was empty on nitrous, well I had an idea but I guess I overlooked it! The hit was more noticeable for sure this time..I could probably turn up the boost to 16.5 psi and it would probably be more like 50hp I would think, but I am happy with what I have now...Beggars cant be choosers kind of thing!!
Nitrous is so much fun to drive and use, knowing that its relatively on the safe side based on my numerous logs on nitrous, that the car is running healthy and strong..
Sweet! So likely 440hp/450tq with much less heat than with just fuel and meth. Very cool stuff.
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