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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > 12V+ Ignition from Bluetooth harness in trunk



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      11-09-2011, 06:28 PM   #1
BWT
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12V+ Ignition from Bluetooth harness in trunk

Hi

Help please

I want to install an amp and processor into the trunk of an E90 LCI with base stereo.

I need to tap into a 12V+ wire that is hooked up via the ignition switch and don't want to pull out the head unit.

Does anyone know whether I can tap into the Bluetooth harness in the trunk to get a 12V+ connection and if so which wire

Thanks
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      11-09-2011, 07:18 PM   #2
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You better look at some of these install examples

Because everybody runs there +12 right off the battery(for the amp) running number 4 cable . (or at least number 8) ( I have only seen aftermarket head units connected at the fuse box on this car)(and never seen anything connected
at the blue tooth or TCU)

http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540446

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=540954

If I were you I would be looking at getting a technic harness which comes
with power cables and will allow you to hook up your equipment without cutting any factory wires.

Also I would be looking at as many installs on here as possible till you understand how to approach this.

If you haven't already bought equipment I would consider a one stop solution from these guys.

http://www.musicarnw.com/page-2/

Last edited by ctuna; 11-10-2011 at 04:05 PM.
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      11-10-2011, 12:29 PM   #3
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Many installs have pulled a signal from the lighter in the console. It's a switched source, and not very hard to access.
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      11-10-2011, 04:01 PM   #4
ctuna
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Have you considered the current draw

A seperate amplifier of any significant size requires a cable that won't melt
or restrict the flow of current when its pulling any significant current.
Do you know the current rating of the cigarette lighter?

Last edited by ctuna; 11-10-2011 at 04:18 PM.
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      11-10-2011, 04:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDiner View Post
Many installs have pulled a signal from the lighter in the console. It's a switched source, and not very hard to access.
This method is annoying though because your engine or acc power (2 presses of the start button, foot OFF brake) has to be on.

When you shut your car off, the radio still plays but your amp will shut off.

You can buy a line output converter that has a built in remote trigger.

Technics harness has this. It is also plug and play and the cleanest solution.

Btw guys I think the OP is looking for a remote trigger. Not a 12v source to power the amp.
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      11-11-2011, 06:41 AM   #6
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Thank you for the responses everyone.

I am looking for a remote trigger only.

The amp & processor will be connected directly to the battery (with fuse & 4AWG & 16AWG cable etc).

I will either use an Audison Bit10 or JL Cleansweep to flatten the EQ - the Bit10 also has EQ/time alignment functions etc. Both of these units have remote turn on function so they will automatically switch on when a signal from the OEM head unit is detected.

The JL Cleansweep has the following connections to power up:
- 12V+ (constant - direct to battery)
- Ground
- 12V+ (via ignition switch) - This is the wire that I am looking for

Maybe one way is to connect both the 12V+ constant and 12V+ ignition directly to the battery and let the auto turn on/off function work - Can anyone confirm this approach?

Or the 12V+ via ignition is not required? Can anyone confirm this one please?

The Cleansweep / Bit10 will then provide a remote turn on signal for the amp.

I have been in touch with Technic and his harness will need to be connected to the OEM head unit. I would rather not remove the head unit if I don't have to. I can take the signal from the front speaker & under seat sub to feed the CleanSweep/Bit10 without removing the head unit (this is similar to the wiring for the Alpine upgrade).

Other equipment to be installed are:
- earthquake SWS8's for under seats
- JL HD 600/4
- Morel Hybrid ovation for front doors
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      11-11-2011, 07:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BWT View Post
Hi

Help please

I want to install an amp and processor into the trunk of an E90 LCI with base stereo.

I need to tap into a 12V+ wire that is hooked up via the ignition switch and don't want to pull out the head unit.

Does anyone know whether I can tap into the Bluetooth harness in the trunk to get a 12V+ connection and if so which wire

Thanks
Use a PAC TR-4 as your remote turn on source, leave the Bluetooth harness alone.
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      11-11-2011, 07:36 AM   #8
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You'll want to change that 16AWG cable to a 4AWG.
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      11-11-2011, 04:30 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
You'll want to change that 16AWG cable to a 4AWG.
Not if he's looking for remote turn on. As he stated he is.

Quote:
I am looking for a remote trigger only.
EDIT: check voltage at the harness is what I would do, my wiring pinouts don't have that listed. Pinout is here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601485
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      11-11-2011, 04:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cole92 View Post
Not if he's looking for remote turn on. As he stated he is.



EDIT: check voltage at the harness is what I would do, my wiring pinouts don't have that listed. Pinout is here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601485
From what I gather, the OP used a 4AWG cable for the +12v and a 16AWG for the ground.

The power and ground should be the same gauge.

You're right, the REM wire can be 16AWG.....but the way the OP typed it out, it seems like his ground is much smaller than it is recommended to be.

As for finding the REM lead on the L7 amp harness, there is none. It is turned on through the MOST loop. OEM REM lead is pin 13 at the HU harness.....but OP mentioned he doesn't want to pull the HU.

EDIT: He has base, not L7. So the last section of this post is partly irrelevant. But the base stereo doesn't have an amp in the trunk either. It's still pin 13 behind the HU.

Last edited by fdriller9; 11-11-2011 at 04:57 PM.
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      11-11-2011, 04:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ********* View Post
From what I gather, the OP used a 4AWG cable for the +12v and a 16AWG for the ground.

The power and ground should be the same gauge.

You're right, the REM wire can be 16AWG.....but the way the OP typed it out, it seems like his ground is much smaller than it is recommended to be.

As for finding the REM lead on the L7 amp harness, there is none. It is turned on through the MOST loop. OEM REM lead is pin 13 at the HU harness.....but OP mentioned he doesn't want to pull the HU.
No argument there and I just read his posts again, and it's semi-unclear. Now I know where you are coming from
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