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      11-02-2010, 06:17 AM   #287
ShereKhan
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2006 E90 320si  [0.00]
Its been quite interesting to see the progress of my old car.
You can see that it started to rain in the last pic.

The car will be good for many more miles. I've just been looking at the pics of the car when I took at delivery. The ones I posted in my garage were the day after delivery. All Detox needs to do now is to give it a good wash n wax and its good as new.
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Scrapped RIP 12/08/2010 - E90 320si - Le Mans Blue - Totally standard specification
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      11-02-2010, 08:25 AM   #288
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Had mine washed, waxed, polished, teflon-ed and treated with Williams Ceramic Coat.

She's as good as new:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Detox View Post
Not recommended at all !!!!
I had the electrics box covered and the engine actually was in and connected before the rain started so it was not that bad...

The thing that helped was that The engine loom had already been connected to the engine and was just plugged into the car which took about 5 min!!!

if you are putting a new engine in make sure the engine loom is on the engine before fitting otherwise it becomes very difficult!!!

Our British weather
Here at the moment is sunny and about 17 degrees and it will be all week.
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      11-03-2010, 02:55 PM   #289
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Originally Posted by Nikos120i View Post
Had mine washed, waxed, polished, teflon-ed and treated with Williams Ceramic Coat.

Here at the moment is sunny and about 17 degrees and it will be all week.
Looks Sweet mate.... well done
Enjoy the weather.. it is grey and gloomy here :-(( and to top it all off we now have a very short day as well !!!!
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      11-21-2010, 12:03 AM   #290
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Fantastic Car... Selling now !!

All,

It has been great repairing the 320si and the engine is absolutely fantastic... Love it and been driving for the last few weeks and falling in love more
It feels as if it is always on the edge and wants to go !!

Unfortunatly I need the money now for my new business so it will sadly have to go to a new loving home

I am up for offers if anyone is interested to get a 320si without the inherent liner problems and an upgraded engine .... Drop me a line...

Shortly I will be able to offer BMW specialist repair and parts service in the Basingstoke area...

Cheers
Mo
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      11-21-2010, 02:14 PM   #291
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Took mine to another dealer on Saturday to have a rather loud knock investigated. Hope it doesn't need another engine as that will be its 4th in 30K.
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      11-27-2010, 01:18 PM   #292
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Today I had that intermittent problem also. :-(

Wouldn't start, so I stoped it, then tryied to start it again...would start again...then pushed the button again and left it and then started after 5-7 seconds.

Hasn't done it since.

How do we solve this again?
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      11-29-2010, 12:08 PM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnySi View Post
Took mine to another dealer on Saturday to have a rather loud knock investigated. Hope it doesn't need another engine as that will be its 4th in 30K.
Jonny...

Any news? hope the car is ok now?

Mo
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      11-29-2010, 12:09 PM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nikos120i View Post
Today I had that intermittent problem also. :-(

Wouldn't start, so I stoped it, then tryied to start it again...would start again...then pushed the button again and left it and then started after 5-7 seconds.

Hasn't done it since.

How do we solve this again?
if it is idling properly and all seems ok then I would not worry about it...
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      11-29-2010, 02:36 PM   #295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detox View Post
Jonny...

Any news? hope the car is ok now?

Mo
Well, I got it back on Friday, nothing had been done because apparantely "You are operating the vehicle outside normal operating conditions" by pressing the throttle. Not happy, so i'll drive it till it breaks!
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      11-30-2010, 01:20 AM   #296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detox View Post
if it is idling properly and all seems ok then I would not worry about it...
Once it started...it idled properly.

The thing is that it wouldn't start. The started kicked it, it sounded like it wanted to turn the motor but it wouldn't rev-up to the idle speed. It did that for a few seconds until I stopped it, then again and then I let it do the same until it started.

It did it again for 2-3 seconds yesterday...then it started.

It did only starting from cold and when the weather was very, very, very, VERY humid outside.

Any clue?
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      12-01-2010, 08:57 PM   #297
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Quote:
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Hi, I have to say that i know it is hard to gain an accurate sound on a video, mine is much less tapperty than yours. checked the clearances this week and they didn't even need any adjustment. Dropped the oil again and a new filter and its as smooth as silk. 3k to its spark plug service now, probably do them next week just as a precaution. I rarely drive it hard but i do stretch its legs on a weekly basis. I have removed the VANOS solenoids and cleaned those of any swarf which can cause hesitation. All these little things help.

Hello Jonny S ! Can i do the VANOS solenoids check by my self you think? Can you show in a picture or describe in detail how to do?

All of us who drive`s this fantastic car must understand that Bmw developed this road car from a racecar and not vice versa, and this is very unusual. It´s much harder to develop a racecar for the streets and expect it to start and work in all weather conditions than to develope a racecar from a streetcar and so on.. Just a reminder.. /Fredrik
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      12-02-2010, 08:47 AM   #298
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Originally Posted by E90_320si View Post
Hello Jonny S ! Can i do the VANOS solenoids check by my self you think? Can you show in a picture or describe in detail how to do?

All of us who drive`s this fantastic car must understand that Bmw developed this road car from a racecar and not vice versa, and this is very unusual. It´s much harder to develop a racecar for the streets and expect it to start and work in all weather conditions than to develope a racecar from a streetcar and so on.. Just a reminder.. /Fredrik
If you remove the Large plastic trim at the front of the engine bay which has the roundel on it, to view the front of the engine. Then there are to plugs which are in the very centre of the cylinder head, with 2 metal plates across them. Remove the 10mm bolts, and gently pull on the sockets. The solenoids will pull out. (Oil will come out from them!) Clean them with brake cleaner, and reinstall.
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      12-02-2010, 07:47 PM   #299
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Thanks for the nice drawing and description DIY! I have also heard that you need to controll som "rubber tension packings" in the Vanos after 40000km? And if you dont replace them with new ones, they tending to vear out, and you can lose power in the engine. Can a private person handle this operation do you think?
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      12-02-2010, 08:00 PM   #300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E90_320si View Post
Thanks for the nice drawing and description DIY! I have also heard that you need to controll som "rubber tension packings" in the Vanos after 40000km? And if you dont replace them with new ones, they tending to vear out, and you can lose power in the engine. Can a private person handle this operation do you think?
The VANOS system is very complicated, and should only be touched by BMW service. Many special tools are required and a very detailed procedure must be adhered to.
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      12-02-2010, 08:06 PM   #301
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Im a bit worried that all 320si are having this hidden liner problem because of the aluminium/graphite that they are using is to veak, or is it just a few cars how are involved? If this problem are going to happend to all 320si during the lifspan, then Bmw most come up with a work around to prevent this! Because this is not okey!

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      12-13-2010, 07:32 AM   #302
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Working temperatures on Si

hi there to all,

i own a 320si and have just fitted the performance steering wheel which means that i also have indications of water and oil temperature on display.

i have noticed that the engine is running in temperatures from 65-90 degrees oC. is this normal?

i have heard that these motors are running in high engine temperatures like 103 oC etc.

i have never seen such temperatures in my engine.

normally the engine is running on 84-86 oC but i have to wait more that half an hour to get that temperature.

furthermore when i am using the highway with low revs and approximately 90 Km/H the cooling temperature goes down to 65 oC.

could the thermostat be stuck in open position? would i get an indication of fault code from my vehicle?
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      01-07-2011, 09:57 AM   #303
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I will check the technical docs for you tonight and let you know the normal operating temp range but if the thermostat is stuck open you wont get an error that lights up the dash light but there might be an error stored on the ecu about the loop back (emissions control) not kicking in due to low temperature.
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      01-07-2011, 12:43 PM   #304
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You'll get a fault a relating to the NTC1 sensor which is your coolant temp sensor and part of the thermostat.
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      01-10-2011, 09:28 AM   #305
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Thermostat replaced.

now the car works in 85 oC and reaches maximum temperature in heavy traffic 90 - 92 oC.

the thermostat of the car (which is suitable ONLY for the si) has a reading on it 85 oC and it is normal - clasic thermostat which is not controlled by the ECU like other thermostats.

Result:
You DONT get a fault code in the dash even in the engine is working on low temperatures due to stucked open thermostat.

the NORMAL temeprature of the cooling for the si is 85-90 oC


be carefull....
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      02-09-2011, 01:00 PM   #306
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Hi all, my 56 plate 320si is in the dealers since december 2010, two large cracks in the block at #4 cylinder, engineers couldnt believe that it was still running. Waiting for a new block from Germany now and probably wont have it back for a few more weeks. Anybody have a similar problem with the block? BMW are saying nothing despite many queries as to why the block failed after only 33k. What would cause this, manafacturing defect?
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      02-09-2011, 01:23 PM   #307
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Yeah its really common, mine went at 14k
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      02-10-2011, 04:27 PM   #308
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Hi there I have been following this thread for a while with interest and concern.

I have a very nice silver 320SI from 2006. It has only got 45k on the meter and so far it seems to run well. It was a little rough when I first got it a year ago but a software update seems to have ironed out the coughing and roughness at low revs.

now to my question. Is there anyway you can tell if the cylinders have cracks in them without taking the engine apart? How has BMW handled your broken engines? did you have to pay or did BMW extend the warranty?
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