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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Can't figure out what is wrong...



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      01-04-2012, 01:26 AM   #1
creaminz
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Can't figure out what is wrong...

Ok, I recently replace my Valve Gasket...upon start up car threw
11608 DME Digital Motor Electorincs, internal failure, cotrol nominal torque
But car ran ok. So I came back from test drive, Uploaded PROceed 11-25 map, Command center, reset all values. Test drove and no codes...sweet!

So next morning, I took my car to the track, on my way to the track, I did few 3rd gear pulls, car felt great!....SES light came on but my drove normal, no hiccup, no limp. As soon as I got to the track I hooked up my laptop to see codes.

12000, 10703, 11518, 11529, 11610(control motor torque limitation) But again car was running good. Spent 1/2 day at the track, still no sign of limp or any other problem except power steering fluid over flowed but told it's normal after hard tracking.

On my way home, I turned on my Performance Steering wheel and noiced 405 Water Temp/236 Oil Temp. Ok....WHAT!? 405????? Car was still boosting fine with no sign of limp or Engine overhear warning, but one thing I noticed was even though I was in "DS" mode it drove like I was driving in "D"
Stopped the car, turned it off, restart, everything went back to normal again. Water temp/oil temp normal. So I drove home fine. Next morning, I start the car, everything seem normal but as soon as I drove off the lot, I saw Water Temp increasing fast and again reached 405. Fan on full blasting...took my car back home scratching my head...wtf is going on!??
After searching through forum, here is what I gathered.

1. Could be blown fuse
2. Battery need to be disconnected for 10mins to reset since I unplugged bunch of stuff while replace valve gasket
3. Replace water pump/ thermostat
4. Reload Map/Firmware until everything is ok

P.S. Call me an idiot since I forgot to disconnect battery before performing valve gasket replacement....could this caused any problem I am having right now?

Any input, help would be greatly appreciated!!
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      01-04-2012, 01:44 AM   #2
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I guess start at the easy/simple fixes and work your way up. Reload firmware, unhook battery and double check all the sensor connections. I've never done a valve cover replacement so IDK what's involved, but i'd start checking the sensors at the ECT sensor if that had to be distrubed. Good luck and keep us updated.
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      01-04-2012, 07:23 AM   #3
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Could be a sensor on the firtz. If the car was actually running at 405 coolant temp, it would have shut down long before that and you'd see coolant billowing out from under your hood. Then again, if the DME is seeing 405 even from a faulty sensor, why didnt it shut down the car either way? Have you checked coolant levels and bled properly?

236F oil temp sounds right.
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      01-04-2012, 03:43 PM   #4
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Could be a sensor on the firtz. If the car was actually running at 405 coolant temp, it would have shut down long before that and you'd see coolant billowing out from under your hood. Then again, if the DME is seeing 405 even from a faulty sensor, why didnt it shut down the car either way? Have you checked coolant levels and bled properly?

236F oil temp sounds right.
Thats what I thought was werid too because when car overeats that high it usually throws symbol light on cluster but none. I will check the fuse next to ecu. Coolant level is good.

I checked few fuses behind the glove box but I noticed some discoloration on tip of fuse but nothing disconnected/blown inside the plastic housing. You think discolored tip could cause a problem?
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      01-05-2012, 12:56 PM   #5
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Go into the fuse box with a test light. Check both sides of every fuse to make sure there is power on both sides with the car on. Some of the mini fuses are hard to see whether they're blown or not.

Otherwise double-check all connections to the engine - the main power cable, ground cables, etc. Something may be left loose and intermittent.
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      01-05-2012, 01:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesM3M5 View Post
Go into the fuse box with a test light. Check both sides of every fuse to make sure there is power on both sides with the car on. Some of the mini fuses are hard to see whether they're blown or not.

Otherwise double-check all connections to the engine - the main power cable, ground cables, etc. Something may be left loose and intermittent.
Thanks for the advice, I am heading out to autozone to get some fuse and will check EVERY fuses
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      01-05-2012, 02:52 PM   #7
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The test light is the quickest way to test fuses. They have those little tiny exposed tips at the back side, perfect to probe with a test light. Light on both sides? Good fuse. Light on one side but not on the other? Yep, blown fuse.

Too bad the new "fuse diagrams" in the modern BMWs are for illiterates. Some of those little pictograms are impossible to figure out. Had a customer car with a blown fuse to the radio. Random freak occurrence, trying to rush to get the car out the door, and the damn SOS and radio didn't work. The pictogram didn't readily look like a radio. I even pulled the fuse and looked at it. But sure enough, the test light told me it was bad. My eyes aren't that bad, but I missed that it was blown.
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      01-05-2012, 04:20 PM   #8
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Okay just checked all those fuses behind the glove box, i have bunch of them that doesnt lit up so i replaced them all but still no lit you think circuit board is bad?
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      01-05-2012, 04:40 PM   #9
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50 amp in ecu box also has power, it lit up fine. Just few fuses behind the glove box doesnt lit up even after I replaced them
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      01-05-2012, 05:10 PM   #10
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Not all of the fuses will be powered up at all times. You want to see which fuses have power on one side but not on the other. Also have the ignition fully on to ensure everything that can be on is.

You may not have any bad fuses. Anything under the hood that got disconnected and maybe not connected back fully or any ground or power posts not tighted down? It's probably not a coincidence that the problem occured after you did the VC gasket.

I assume you had to pull the injectors to get the VC off. Did they go back in the same holes?
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      01-05-2012, 06:23 PM   #11
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Yes I did fuse testing while ignition On but engine off.
I didnt have to pull out Injectors but just remove fuel rail/lines and I marked them while removing them so I know where they go when I reinstall...I will check again all the wires ect...Thanks for your continuing support!
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      01-05-2012, 07:50 PM   #12
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What's the average water temp for our cars? 200?
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      01-05-2012, 08:10 PM   #13
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Just came back from a little test drive,
Water temp stays within 200-240 which sounds pretty high still.
I will post some video of my performance steering water temp in action, it flickers and temp went up down from 207-237
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      01-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #14
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      01-05-2012, 10:15 PM   #15
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High water temps are normal - they do it for fuel economy. The thermostat has a natural opening temp of over 100C (I want to say 108 or 110C), but there is a heater element controlled by the ECU in the wax stat to open the thermostat prematurely. You will typically see temps in the 210-220 range, which is fine until you want to really push the envelope.
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      01-05-2012, 11:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesM3M5 View Post
High water temps are normal - they do it for fuel economy. The thermostat has a natural opening temp of over 100C (I want to say 108 or 110C), but there is a heater element controlled by the ECU in the wax stat to open the thermostat prematurely. You will typically see temps in the 210-220 range, which is fine until you want to really push the envelope.
This might be really stupid question so forgive me but does Bad O2 sensors can cause high water temp from time to time? Just curious since you mentioned high water temp are due to fuel economy.

At this point, I really don't think it's blown fuse...All the other components are working flawlessly EXCEPT driver's side seat heater stopped working somehow. Passenger works fine.
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      01-06-2012, 03:16 AM   #17
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What's this little nipple hose for?

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      01-06-2012, 03:29 AM   #18
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I think that's the battery vent tube.
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      01-06-2012, 03:33 AM   #19
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That's the battery vent hose.
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      01-06-2012, 04:19 AM   #20
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Quote:
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I think that's the battery vent tube.
Quote:
Originally Posted by itschase View Post
That's the battery vent hose.
Hmmm...I just looked it up and it sure is a battery vent tube...but looks like Braille battery doesn't have vent tube hole.
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      01-06-2012, 06:07 PM   #21
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Okay I just drove the car about 60 miles and water temp did not go over 230! Car was pulling good! I wonder what fixed it? All I did was open the coolant cap, let the car run with heater on Full blast. I read somewhere, you are supposed to let the heater run while running at the track? I totally did not do that...
Water temp still fluctuate but at least it doesnt go over 230, I am happy.
Now I gotta track down why my driver's side heater isn't working This is like creaminz troubleshoot thread
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      01-06-2012, 09:51 PM   #22
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405 F is not possible something was causing it to mis read, water with coolant 50/50 in a standard 15lb cooling system boils at 265F, even straight glycol boils at about 370F, at 405F all your coolant would have boiled and you would have had steam everywhere long before 405F. The readings you are seeing now, around 220 are normal, I don't think your engine was running hot, at least not 405F, something else is wrong reading the temp incorrectly.
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