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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > VRSF Rear Inlet Popping off



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      03-29-2016, 06:57 PM   #1
evas10n
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VRSF Rear Inlet Popping off

I was installing my LSD and while I was putting back my exhaust I noticed that the rear inlet popped off of the turbo. Any trick to get this to stay? Do other inlets have this problem?

I wonder if the new full silicone inlets will solve this issue.
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      03-29-2016, 09:35 PM   #2
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If the clamp isn't properly seated you're going to have the same issue on either type of inlet unfortunately. Just make sure the clamp is as close to the turbo as possible.
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      03-29-2016, 10:27 PM   #3
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That's what I figured. Hopefully second time is the charm.
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      03-30-2016, 07:58 AM   #4
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My rear one comes off too. MMP aluminum ones.
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      03-30-2016, 08:31 AM   #5
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Clean the inside with brake cleaner and whip it down, than use hairspray and spray it down. Hairspray gets tacky when it dries up so will prevent slippage
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      03-30-2016, 12:25 PM   #6
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Hairspray is an old trick, but works very well. Just coat the inside edge of the coupler and put it down and clamp it so the clamp compresses the coupler over the beaded edge. Once the hairspray dries, it won't come off anymore lol
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      05-21-2016, 06:00 PM   #7
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It came off for the 3rd time... i guess ill have to remove and try the hairspray trick...

The full silicone inlets have this issues 2?
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      05-21-2016, 08:48 PM   #8
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I'm at 6k on precision racewerks inlets and neither front or back has moved
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      05-22-2016, 09:38 AM   #9
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We have about 130 sets out in the wild right now and this is the only confirmed report of the coupler slipping off. Make sure the clamp is nice and tight and placed as far as possibl on the turbo snout.
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      05-22-2016, 10:19 AM   #10
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To be clear I think it's more the design of the turbo than the inlet. I will pull the inlet although way out today and see

I have no issues with the front...

Since i dont have a catch can..Maybe it's pvc system and oil making it slip off?
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      05-22-2016, 07:19 PM   #11
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Just follow the MMP instructions and use some mechanics wire and use it to connect the clamp to the turbo, so it cant slip off
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      05-22-2016, 07:32 PM   #12
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So I pulled the whole inlet off and spent the whole morning trying to get it to stay on perfect. Didn't have much luck. It seemed as if no matter what i did every time i got the clamp tight the silicone coupler would slide off. I even had my DP out again. I think with the tight space the 90 degree coupler was slightly bent so that was also not helping it either. I was able to get it some what on and tight about 1mm off of the turbo

I really want to try a full silicone inlet. My thinking is that the full silicone inlets are stiffer and won't slide off as easily?

TBH I don't see how any inlet with metal pipes and silcone couplers like VRSF or MMP stay on.. I wonder how many people actually double check it after their install because they have to pull the panels off and then look through the DP in a very tight space...

I also want to add that in no way I think its a design flaw of the VRSF inlets.. The front inlet and all the relocation pieces have been perfect for me. I think its just the nature of the tight space and maybe a little bad luck on my part. I am running also running VRSF DP, CP, and Intercooler and couldn't be happier with those.
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      05-22-2016, 07:36 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreyo27 View Post
Just follow the MMP instructions and use some mechanics wire and use it to connect the clamp to the turbo, so it cant slip off
Interesting.. it looks like they use a t-bolt clamp instead of the normal clamp... Maybe I'll give one of those a try.
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      05-22-2016, 08:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evas10n View Post
Interesting.. it looks like they use a t-bolt clamp instead of the normal clamp... Maybe I'll give one of those a try.
Thats my rear inlet.. I bellive MMP wants you to use a worm clamp. I used a T bolt so i can run the mechanics wire through it.
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      05-24-2016, 12:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreyo27
Quote:
Originally Posted by evas10n View Post
Interesting.. it looks like they use a t-bolt clamp instead of the normal clamp... Maybe I'll give one of those a try.
Thats my rear inlet.. I bellive MMP wants you to use a worm clamp. I used a T bolt so i can run the mechanics wire through it.
I used to think tbolt clamp and wore locking to return oil line was the best but reality is the flange is so tiny on the rear turbo that when you tighten the tbolt it walks of the flange. Best I have found is a worm clamp as tight to the turbo as possible and the surfaces as dry as possible. Maybe even like the German hose clamps stock on the car that are skinner and you can get closer to the turbo and tighten as close as possible.

Silicone stock location inlets are free of this issue because the firewall keeps it solid on the turbo, wedged in there basically, will never slip of, no way, you just pay for it up front in that installing rear silicone inlet from anyone is a B*tch
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      05-24-2016, 03:07 PM   #16
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yea it seemed as if the stock inlets where held on by the mounting bolts on the front and back of the block.
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      05-24-2016, 04:29 PM   #17
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I think it is about time some one to machine some sleeves out of aluminum or stainless steel to extend the stock turbo inlet lips. That would solve the issue once and for all for people running aftermarket inlets but don't have compressor housing with machined lips like the Hexon RR700 or Pure Stage 2.
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      05-24-2016, 06:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
I think it is about time some one to machine some sleeves out of aluminum or stainless steel to extend the stock turbo inlet lips. That would solve the issue once and for all for people running aftermarket inlets but don't have compressor housing with machined lips like the Hexon RR700 or Pure Stage 2.
thats not happening...

wirelock it and be done.... no need to pull of the turbo and get it machined. That is a massive additional headache
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      05-24-2016, 07:12 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreyo27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9blue View Post
I think it is about time some one to machine some sleeves out of aluminum or stainless steel to extend the stock turbo inlet lips. That would solve the issue once and for all for people running aftermarket inlets but don't have compressor housing with machined lips like the Hexon RR700 or Pure Stage 2.
thats not happening...

wirelock it and be done.... no need to pull of the turbo and get it machined. That is a massive additional headache
Why would you need a pull the turbo... You slap on the separately machined sleeve and sandwich it between the silicone coupler and the turbo housing.

It can just be few mm thick, so the stock size silicone coupler would still work
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      05-27-2016, 06:07 PM   #20
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Ok.. i think i finally got it.. it was a couple of things... I ended up using dreyo27 method with the t-bolt clamp. I also had to angle the 90 degree coupler like 15 degrees towards the outside of the car.. I had it parallel with the metal pipe before.. that angle helped put some pressure to keep it on the turbo.. the angle has to be done before you jam it in the car.. If that makes sense.... I can draw some fancy paint images if someone really wants to know what i mean.

Last edited by evas10n; 05-27-2016 at 07:20 PM.
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      01-25-2017, 12:07 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evas10n View Post
I was installing my LSD and while I was putting back my exhaust I noticed that the rear inlet popped off of the turbo. Any trick to get this to stay? Do other inlets have this problem?

I wonder if the new full silicone inlets will solve this issue.
I got the same problem with vrsf inlets. It wont stay on. When i tighten it slides off i tried with 3 diffrent clams and it keeps sliding off when i tighten.
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      01-25-2017, 02:13 AM   #22
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I also had this problem. I removed both downpipes, the wastgate actuator and mounting bracket to get clear access to it. Only then was I able to get the hose and clamp close enough and square enough to stay on.

Finally, I had to remove any strain from moving the hose around up top such as when removing/installing the air box. I zip tied the hose to the original mounting bracket location on the upper part of the engine.
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