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      03-10-2013, 04:11 PM   #23
ellipsis212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PIXLFIX View Post
I do have some of those Alpine OEM LCD screens for CD73 in case somebody needs them.
Are the replacement screens prone to the same issue as the existing ones? I'm interested in doing this since my HU display is basically shit if the cabin temp is above 65 deg.
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      03-10-2013, 09:46 PM   #24
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May be not the answer what you want to hear, but most likely yes. Because it is exact same part. I'm not sure, if Alpine did any improvements/modifications in design in replacement part. But at least it is brand new.
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      03-11-2013, 01:11 PM   #25
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May be not the answer what you want to hear, but most likely yes. Because it is exact same part. I'm not sure, if Alpine did any improvements/modifications in design in replacement part. But at least it is brand new.
Thanks. I guess it would at least buy me 2-3 years of decent use
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      03-18-2013, 04:26 PM   #26
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Very Nice Instructions : I've Just finished installing my LCD Works Great.
Just a note my LCD Ribbon Cables Were Taped With Transparent Tape, Had to remove tape before ribbon cable would pull out.
I got the LCD from bestpixelrepair cost $140 + Shipping, Repair time about 1 hr.
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      03-19-2013, 10:01 AM   #27
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Very Nice Instructions : I've Just finished installing my LCD Works Great.
Just a note my LCD Ribbon Cables Were Taped With Transparent Tape, Had to remove tape before ribbon cable would pull out.
I got the LCD from bestpixelrepair cost $140 + Shipping, Repair time about 1 hr.
On a scale of 1-10, how much soldering skill is required for the DIY? I've considered sending mine out for the repair but ideally I'd like to try it myself.
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      03-19-2013, 11:50 AM   #28
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Last edited by PIXLFIX; 03-19-2013 at 01:43 PM.
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      03-19-2013, 01:26 PM   #29
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On a scale of 1-10, how much soldering skill is required for the DIY? I've considered sending mine out for the repair but ideally I'd like to try it myself.
Just Four Metal Pin claps to Unsolder and re-solder, not hard to do Tools needed Soldering Iron, Solder Sucker or Solder Wick ( I used Both).
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      03-19-2013, 03:35 PM   #30
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      04-12-2013, 01:05 PM   #31
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Hi. I saw your post on replacing the LCD on the CD73 HU and was wondering if you could answer a question. The last item you mentioned was running the test patterns. Regarding that, I just received a refurbished Alpine unit and am getting ready to replace the HU I already have. Will it be plug-and-play, or will it require anything more than running the tests? Are the tests even required? Thanks!
I'm sorry if there's a thread that covers this, but couldn't find it anywhere.
The reason I replaced my LCD display was that some of the pixels began to fade when the car interior was hot - a very common problem.

The test patterns are a series of checker boards and bands of varying intensity. The only reason for mentioning the test patterns was to confirm that every pixel worked correctly. I came across this test on another forum and thought it was useful.

If you are replacing the HU, it will be plug and play if it is exactly the same model, otherwise it might need coding. I believe there is also a version of the HU which includes optical output and one that accepts a microphone for voice control, but mine is just the basic CD73.
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      04-13-2013, 10:14 AM   #32
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I bought an LCD from germanaudiotech and took out my radio. But it is completely different than the one in the photos. Mine came from a 2011 328xi. Moreover the screws are a special star shape not philips nor allen wrench. At a standstill. I'm going to see if I can mail the radio and LCD to germanaudiotech and have them replace it, but now I'm not sure the LCD is correct. Plus getting the heater controls out came close to breaking the bezel, the instructions should be better on that part and it would help to say the antenna connections require pressing down a latch with a screwdriver and how to unplug the multipin connector.
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      04-16-2013, 12:35 PM   #33
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Why did you take so much care not to damage the ribbon cables for the screen you were removing and presumably throwing out?
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      04-16-2013, 02:20 PM   #34
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The truth is I did, unintentionally, damage the cable on my old screen while removing it. They are very easily torn by sharp implements (pliers, tweezers, etc.).

I just wanted to make sure people are careful with the new screen. I agree though, it doesn't really matter if the old screen cable gets damaged.
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      04-16-2013, 02:24 PM   #35
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The truth is I did, unintentionally, damage the cable on my old screen while removing it. They are very easily torn by sharp implements (pliers, tweezers, etc.).

I just wanted to make sure people are careful with the new screen. I agree though, it doesn't really matter if the old screen cable gets damaged.
That makes sense, thanks.
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      04-26-2013, 10:19 AM   #36
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1. Ugh. Gotta get those ribbon cables from the new screen back into their connectors. They just don't want to go in very far and I'm afraid to break them. Suggestions on handling?

2. IMPORTANT Edit: I figured it out. There are little black tabs on each side of the two connectors that pull out horizontally (parallel with the board surface) like a tray. Once the "tray" comes out, you can set your ribbon connectors down and slide the tray back in until it locks. I was going crazy for like 20 min trying to figure that out. Oh also, that would've made it a lot easier to remove the old one.

Last edited by ellipsis212; 04-29-2013 at 04:45 PM.
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      04-26-2013, 11:35 AM   #37
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Thats awesome I am guessing a shop would just pull the entire unit and replace it.
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      04-29-2013, 04:36 PM   #38
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Here's a little picture showing in orange where the tabs on the connectors are, and in purple, the direction that they pull out. They only go about 3mm out.
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      04-30-2013, 05:24 AM   #39
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Nice guide. I'm looking for another solution, looking on internet to find someone that can change the screen by another one.
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      05-02-2013, 08:55 PM   #40
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Nice write up! I'm about to tackle this one myself. Just waiting for the screen to come in.

Update: Success! First time my screen has fully worked in years. Mine only had two points soldered. It took me about an hour with prep, repair, and cleanup.
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      05-07-2013, 08:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellipsis212
Here's a little picture showing in orange where the tabs on the connectors are, and in purple, the direction that they pull out. They only go about 3mm out.
Thanks! This was a great tip!
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      06-25-2013, 11:11 AM   #42
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I bought another head unit cheap and instead of replacing just the LCD screen by digging around and soldering do you guys think it's possible to just swap the 'faceplates' after removing the 5 screws and the one ribbon cable? It would save work if I already have another head unit with non-functioning CD-player. The only concern I have is if the car will notice that a part of the stereo has been 'frankensteined' / replaced and demand to be recoded. Any thoughts?
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      06-25-2013, 09:19 PM   #43
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So, trying my experiment above, I can open the stereo I bought quite easily, but the one in my car is obviously a little more advanced as it has some strange fasteners on it that seriously have no depth for a tool and my knobs are silver. I'm baffled here.
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      06-26-2013, 01:28 PM   #44
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Quote:
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So, trying my experiment above, I can open the stereo I bought quite easily, but the one in my car is obviously a little more advanced as it has some strange fasteners on it that seriously have no depth for a tool and my knobs are silver. I'm baffled here.
Not sure what you mean, can you post pics?
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