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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > Mechanical Maintenance: Break-in / Oil & Fluids / Servicing / Warranty > E90 Problem Tried to many solutions need help



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      05-15-2012, 06:34 PM   #23
GeorgeSorfazian
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KFRAZIE1 > Hello..

I have a got a new key from the dealer same problem...

New CAS Module too... i just replaced the JBE Module Box 10 mins ago... and DID the same EXACT Problem car wont crank ...


SO I HAVE AN UPDATE \/ \/ Hopefully You Guys Might Determine Something here

Still car not starting so i quickly took the air cleaner
box & boot out and the power box under the
throttle body where i located the power wire that goes to the starter solenoid .. and has 11.5 V going to the starter when trying to crank the car ...

so this shows that POWER is going to the STARTER....
this mean ONLY one thing.... the STARTER isnt working correctly! right???
But common i changed ((( 3 ))) Starters ..... 2 Bosch rebuilt and 1 from the Dealer

Here is the results :

Battery Voltage 13.4V
Starter Solenoid Positive Cable 11.5V
Starter Not Cranking
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      05-15-2012, 07:23 PM   #24
kfrazie1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeSorfazian View Post
KFRAZIE1 > Hello..

I have a got a new key from the dealer same problem...

New CAS Module too... i just replaced the JBE Module Box 10 mins ago... and DID the same EXACT Problem car wont crank ...


SO I HAVE AN UPDATE \/ \/ Hopefully You Guys Might Determine Something here

Still car not starting so i quickly took the air cleaner
box & boot out and the power box under the
throttle body where i located the power wire that goes to the starter solenoid .. and has 11.5 V going to the starter when trying to crank the car ...

so this shows that POWER is going to the STARTER....
this mean ONLY one thing.... the STARTER isnt working correctly! right???
But common i changed ((( 3 ))) Starters ..... 2 Bosch rebuilt and 1 from the Dealer

Here is the results :

Battery Voltage 13.4V
Starter Solenoid Positive Cable 11.5V
Starter Not Cranking
Solenoid voltage is suppose to be around 12.6 volts (right from battery) but i think the difference is negligible. Is it possible there is a problem with the connector from the CAS to the solenoid? The CAS connection is right below the main lead going to the solenoid.

It's odd that your getting power to the starter and its not starting. If this is the 3rd starter you've put in there I find it hard to be the starter. I feel like it is an auxiliary system that supports the starter.

Maybe the problem lies with the solenoid and not the starter; however, this manual says if voltage is present and there's no other visible wiring faults the problem is most likely the starter.

Also, is this an auto or manual tranny?

Any other codes on the scanner?
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Last edited by kfrazie1; 05-15-2012 at 07:29 PM.
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      05-16-2012, 03:41 PM   #25
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I really hope you get to the bottom of this George, must be annoying as hell and costing you a fortune...
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      06-05-2012, 04:28 PM   #26
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Any progress towards a permanent fix?
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      06-08-2012, 10:49 PM   #27
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any updates?
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      06-11-2012, 10:51 PM   #28
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George,

I feel your problem and have the same thing on my 650i. It kills me that it just doesn't start sometimes. Here is what I do to get it to start. I turn off the car, wiggle the sterring column, (I associated it to the steering wheel when I firts got the car because it was more prevelent when I woudl pull on the steering wheel to exit the car. I stopped doing that and it stopped not starting) anyway. I exit the car, arm it(even disable bluetooth on my phone. I walk far enough away from the car to avoid any wirless communication. I wait about 2- 10 minutes then walk back to the car get in and she usually starts right up. I have the same error codes as you do from DIS. It is killing me and she always does it at the oddest times. There is a recall on my cars' battery connection cable. I'm hoping that this may remedy the issue.

One the started having voltage but not cranking. It sounds like the starter is not grounded(connected to the negative) I personally have not looked at my starter, but if the connection to the started is just a hot+ wire then it depends on the connection to the metal of the car for the ground(-). Is this the case or does the starter have a + and - connection?

I hope to figure this out soon. I love my car but hate this.
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      07-13-2012, 01:28 PM   #29
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I have the same problem with my '07 328xi. The car just wouldn't start no matter what I do. I'm about to replace the starter in the process of debugging the issue. I have similar voltage on my starter and didn't see obvious conection/wiring issues. One thing that crossed my mind is BST. I'm thinking of busting the terminal and bypassing the charge so that cable is permanently connected to the B+.
Also does anyone know the positions of grounding wires? There is one just below the jump point, but are there others?
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      07-13-2012, 04:07 PM   #30
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Now that you have ruled most of the "normal" electrical failures, you are left with what could be a computer error. The error code stored about Canbus registration errors could be the sign that the canbus controler is shot. If that is the case, the new CAS you have installed could fail to give the ok signal to your ECU.

Probably very expensive to change the canbus controler, no idea to check the hypothesis. Sorry it doesn't help much.
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      11-02-2013, 02:02 PM   #31
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Hi! I had the same problem. I researched that voltage between solenoid's positive wire and engine (ground) was only 7V in the moment of start, so, starter didn't crank since there was too less power to turn on the solenoid. Then I researched that voltage between solenoid's positive wire and automobile body (main ground) was 9.5V in the moment of start. At that moment I realized that problem was in grounding wire between automobile body and engine. I connected automobile body with engine with additional wire and engin started immediately.
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      03-20-2014, 06:11 PM   #32
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I'm having the same problem. Was there ever a solution for this? My car will not crank or turn over what so ever. I can push start my vehicle by popping the clutch and it drives perfectly fine. I have replaced the starter twice, starter ground cable, clutch pedal switch, New OEM battery and programmed at dealer and replaced key FOB battery. I'm leaning towards the CAS, but I really don't want to waste money. I also disconnected the IBS to see if car would start and still no luck. I do have AllData and one thing I read someone can maybe help me do is to reset the CAS and DME to the initial code value. Here is what AllData says:

IMPORTANT:
It is not possible to replace the DME/DDE or CAS control units for test purposes.
In rare cases, it is possible that the variable codes in both control units deviate from each other. In these cases, it is possible to reset both codes to the initial value via the service function 'DME(DDE) - CAS matching' (EWS matching).
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      04-14-2014, 06:56 PM   #33
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bump same issue here
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