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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > 30FF Boost under target - Shop says I need new turbos



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      04-28-2015, 11:46 AM   #1
danmandle
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30FF Boost under target - Shop says I need new turbos

I've started getting 30FF errors paired with lower power recently after having my JB4 installed for over a year running map 5. Since I started getting the 30FF code, I changed to map 4 (stock) or map 0 (disable JB4). The code still occurs.

I took my car to an independent shop and I requested a smoke test and they said that they didn't find any leaks. They thought that maybe the diverter valves were leaking and suggested that I get some Forge diverter valves.

I ended up buying a new charge pipe too. I installed the charge pipe and the Forge diverter valves with the yellow springs. Same symptoms and error codes .

I brought the car back into the shop today and told them that installing the new diverter valves and charge pipe resulted in the same symptoms. They said that it's probably the turbos then.

What should I do? Should I have them do another smoke test? Should I take it somewhere else? I'm hoping it's not the turbos.

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2008 335xi
~96k mi
Stock + JB4 + Forge DV + VRSF Charge Pipe

Last edited by danmandle; 04-28-2015 at 11:54 AM. Reason: More details
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      04-28-2015, 12:06 PM   #2
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Did you update the JB4 firmware recently?
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      04-28-2015, 12:12 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcy335xi View Post
Did you update the JB4 firmware recently?
Yes, but the issues were happening before and after the firmware update.
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      04-28-2015, 12:15 PM   #4
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I'll bet one off your vacuum lines have gone bad.

Check all your vacuum lines as mine threw the same code and that's what it turned out to be
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      04-28-2015, 12:30 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawton438 View Post
I'll bet one off your vacuum lines have gone bad.

Check all your vacuum lines as mine threw the same code and that's what it turned out to be
+1

Have the shop, or yourself, check ALL of the vacuum lines. Might be boost solenoids too.
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      04-28-2015, 12:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335NJ View Post
Might be boost solenoids too.
Are you talking about the solenoids that actuate the wastegates?
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      04-28-2015, 01:01 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danmandle View Post
Are you talking about the solenoids that actuate the wastegates?
This: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335i-N54_3.0L/Engine/Turbocharger/ES2498186/
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      04-28-2015, 01:20 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335NJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lawton438 View Post
I'll bet one off your vacuum lines have gone bad.

Check all your vacuum lines as mine threw the same code and that's what it turned out to be
+1

Have the shop, or yourself, check ALL of the vacuum lines. Might be boost solenoids too.
I would just proactively replace them all if your up there in mileage
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      04-28-2015, 01:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 335NJ View Post
That's a hell of a lot cheaper than a pair of new turbos! I found another post: on n54 tech showthread.php?t=13114. There are a lot of DIY tests including testing the vacuum lines and boost solenoids. I will give some of those a try and report back with findings.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!
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      04-28-2015, 01:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danmandle View Post
That's a hell of a lot cheaper than a pair of new turbos! I found another post: on n54 tech showthread.php?t=13114. There are a lot of DIY tests including testing the vacuum lines and boost solenoids. I will give some of those a try and report back with findings.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!
Good luck! I really hope you can get it all fixed without paying a fortune for new turbos.
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      04-28-2015, 05:44 PM   #11
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We have all chased down 30FF's
Like others said:
- replace vacuum lines. hard to see if they are cracked and cheap enough to replace.
- check to see if boost solenoids are functioning properly.
- Check/replace MAP sensor. They sometimes go bad. and cause 30ff (this was my case)
- check hot and cold side of intercooler and all couplings etc.
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      04-28-2015, 06:34 PM   #12
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Bring it to a reputable shop and have them do a boost leak test before you assume the turbo's are done.
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      04-28-2015, 07:40 PM   #13
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I had my car in the shop today for a new thermostat and water pump, so I had them check the vacuum lines and boost solenoid. They said that they were fine. They said that on the "forward turbo" the wastegate rod/shaft is loose and likely necessitates replacing the turbo.

Is there any way out of this? Do the turbos need to be replaced in pairs?

P.S.
BMW NA has extended the turbocharger's emissions warranty up to a total of 8 years or 82,000 miles, whichever comes first and starting from an eligible vehicle's original in -service date, for a failure of a turbocharger caused by a defect of the turbocharger's wastegate.

But my car has 96k miles on it :-(
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      04-28-2015, 11:13 PM   #14
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honestly, I would again just replace all your vaccum lines and solenoids to rule that out bc at your mileage you should have already done it and it's very possible they missed something silly that's causing the code. It's cheap to do yourself
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      04-29-2015, 10:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
honestly, I would again just replace all your vaccum lines and solenoids to rule that out bc at your mileage you should have already done it and it's very possible they missed something silly that's causing the code. It's cheap to do yourself
At $120 each, should I really replace the solenoids if they test ok? Plus, they said that the wastegate rod is loose...
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      04-29-2015, 10:54 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danmandle
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jklad View Post
honestly, I would again just replace all your vaccum lines and solenoids to rule that out bc at your mileage you should have already done it and it's very possible they missed something silly that's causing the code. It's cheap to do yourself
At $120 each, should I really replace the solenoids if they test ok? Plus, they said that the wastegate rod is loose...
You can do the vacuum lines first, and see if that fixes it. If it doesn't, you have the option of looking at the boost solenoids. Purchase the pierburg brand from ecs, they are cheaper and same as oem.

It's just that while your in there replacing all the lines, it's very easy to replace the solenoids rather than having to go back and do it seperately again. But still it's not hard.
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      04-29-2015, 11:26 PM   #17
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So I think I'm SOL. I took the video below. When I add ~23" Hg of vacuum, the wastegate actuator moves about 1/4" or less which doesn't close the wastegate. It DOES hold a vacuum. Anything I did wrong or should try before I order new turbos?

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      04-30-2015, 08:07 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danmandle
So I think I'm SOL. I took the video below. When I add ~23" Hg of vacuum, the wastegate actuator moves about 1/4" or less which doesn't close the wastegate. It DOES hold a vacuum. Anything I did wrong or should try before I order new turbos?

Looks like it's turbo time. The spec at which the waste gates should close is 300mbar, or about 6.5"hg. If it won't close and holds vacuum, that pivot bushing is shot. I would definitely recommend replacement of both turbos at the same time.
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      04-30-2015, 11:02 AM   #19
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Question

Bummer. So I figure while I'm getting new turbos, I might as well get upgraded ones. RB Turbos are back ordered for 3-4 weeks and I need my car for a road trip in three weeks. I can a set of Vargas Stage 1 in about 2 weeks. Think that's a good idea?
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      04-30-2015, 11:32 AM   #20
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Happened to me... Here is my vid. The bearing on the wastegate on the rear turbo wore out and it wouldn't open/close as it should.

To be sure you could remove your downpipes and remove the actuator arm and try opening/closing the wastegate by hand on both turbos to see if one is seizing up, but the video you posted is definitely a sign. I did the same test you did and had the same results.

Good luck man!

If you're on the cheap side like me, you could look for a used turbo on http://www.car-part.com/ I bought one with 15k miles for $300 and it's still holding up 25,000 miles later.

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      04-30-2015, 11:53 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJB1990 View Post
We have all chased down 30FF's
Like others said:
- replace vacuum lines. hard to see if they are cracked and cheap enough to replace.
- check to see if boost solenoids are functioning properly.
- Check/replace MAP sensor. They sometimes go bad. and cause 30ff (this was my case)
- check hot and cold side of intercooler and all couplings etc.
This is good advice...

but it looks like you found the route of the issue. If you are gonna need new turbos then I wold get some RB Turbos or other upgraded ones like (pure, vargas, etc.)

Mike
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      04-30-2015, 12:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com View Post
This is good advice...

but it looks like you found the route of the issue. If you are gonna need new turbos then I wold get some RB Turbos or other upgraded ones like (pure, vargas, etc.)

Mike
I agree with Mike. If you HAVE to buy brand new turbos, at least get VTT stage 1 which are stock turbos but have a wastegate fix. If it were me, I'd cough up the extra money for some RB's since I'm already going through the hassle.
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