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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > REPORT: Proof that Riss Racing Oil Catch Can DOES Work



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      04-10-2011, 06:16 PM   #1
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REPORT: Proof that Riss Racing Oil Catch Can DOES Work

... but the view window does not...

Hey all... so I might get reamed for this, but I got the RissRacing OCC in the spring of 2009 and never emptied it until today. Lazy, I know, but #1 Other members emptied it after 1 year and had a minimal amount of oil caught, so I thought I could wait another year, and #2 the view window built into the catch can never showed any oil level, so I figured it was a small amount of oil in the can.

So after 2 years and roughly 20k miles, I emptied the OCC and look what I got:





So the OCC definitely works... the only problem is that I did notice that the catch can was diffusely covered in dried up oil. More so around joint areas of the unit... one of the O-rings around the entry port is clearly worn out and broken. Should I try to fix this thing? Or since it looks like there is small leaking from multiple parts (including the joints connecting the catch can and the view window) should I just buy a new catch can... I'm just not sure I can fix this thing 100% for 0 leakage.
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      04-10-2011, 06:22 PM   #2
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I just emptied mine out after 3000 miles and I had oil but not as much as yours since you have more miles on it. I also notice the oring deteriating so I went to autozone and replaced all the o-rings on the rr catch can and everything is new again. Don't install it back without replacing them.
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      04-10-2011, 06:27 PM   #3
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I just emptied mine out after 3000 miles and I had oil but not as much as yours since you have more miles on it. I also notice the oring deteriating so I went to autozone and replaced all the o-rings on the rr catch can and everything is new again. Don't install it back without replacing them.
what all o-rings did you replace? The two around the inlet and outlet nozzles... and are there more?

How can I prevent leaking from around the "view tube"? Did you do anything to fix that?

Anywhere else? I noticed the o-ring on the bottom for the drain was in perfect condition...
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      04-10-2011, 06:32 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by skim7x View Post
what all o-rings did you replace? The two around the inlet and outlet nozzles... and are there more?

How can I prevent leaking from around the "view tube"? Did you do anything to fix that?

Anywhere else? I noticed the o-ring on the bottom for the drain was in perfect condition...
I replaced the inlet and outlet, the drain plug and the level looking piece which has orings at each end. So it was 5 orings. I had to buy 3 packs of mixed sizes of orings from autozone as they didn't sell the individual size that I needed. It cost 2.99 for a pack of assorted orings
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      04-10-2011, 06:34 PM   #5
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My bottom drain plug o ring was the worst. It was leaking from there! I didn't tighten that nut enough when I first installed it, so after leaking and baking from the engine bay it corroded and hardened up. Now I have it nice and tight
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      04-10-2011, 06:43 PM   #6
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So on that picture, you replaced 1-5... is there anything to be replaced (or possible to be replaced) at the 2 "?" sites?
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      04-10-2011, 06:49 PM   #7
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The 4 and 5 were not leaking on mine. If anything those are just push fittings and all you need to do is buy some clear tubing and cut length and push it into the holes and then pull up on the tubing a little to secure it. Those don't have orings.
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      04-10-2011, 06:51 PM   #8
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Those "?" locations should not have any leaks
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      04-10-2011, 06:52 PM   #9
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I'd like to know if your outlet tube has any oil in it. If it does then your OCC may not have captured all of the oil fumes.
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      04-10-2011, 06:54 PM   #10
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so would we all agree that the riss racing one is better than the bsh?....
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      04-10-2011, 06:55 PM   #11
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Mine has just oil residue and that's it. I thought for sure there would be oil leaking out of the tubes and I put a paper towel to capture it while the catch can was out, and after a day the paper towel was only stained slightly. I can't speak for OP of this thread. All I know RR catch can works even though so many people claimed it sucked!
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      04-10-2011, 07:05 PM   #12
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Mine has just oil residue and that's it. I thought for sure there would be oil leaking out of the tubes and I put a paper towel to capture it while the catch can was out, and after a day the paper towel was only stained slightly. I can't speak for OP of this thread. All I know RR catch can works even though so many people claimed it sucked!
yeh everyone said its sucked i almost bought one for 75 bucks wish i did now
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      04-10-2011, 07:17 PM   #13
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Hey I am not stating anything other than it works. There were early versions of the RR catch can that were leaking terribly at the blow by fittings at the rear of the engine and the original cans had no wool inside of the can before they sealed it shut and tightened it with the allen nuts. With their newer generation of cans they addressed the issues with better fittings and the entire can is filled with wool, but then went out of business due to internal issues with partners. So can't say whether to buy a used one or not because you have no idea what version they are until you closely examine it. I have the second generation one from what I know and the only issue with mine is the o-rings are worn but that is not a design fault but wear and tear
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      04-10-2011, 07:22 PM   #14
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So on that picture, you replaced 1-5... is there anything to be replaced (or possible to be replaced) at the 2 "?" sites?
I replaced those O rings as well (well the ones that were worn out) and I also used High Temp Red Silicone Gasket Maker on ALL fittings. I STILL have leaking,...especially from the lower elbow connector from the window where it meets up with the can itself. Also check your clear tubing because mine was cracked and leaking form there too. Finally, I hope you guys checked back at the crankcase and intake connectors BEHIND the engine where the hoses are connected. You must take off the engine cover to see this. I had considerable oil back there too. As others have done I used Red Temp Gasket Maker and 4 more hose clamps since they do NOT have hose clamps at the junction from the white connector to the thinner hose. This seems to have worked for that area. ALL these adaptations have helped but this really is a P.O.S.!! As mentioned in the other ("not working ") thread I bought the 42 draft design catch can today and when it comes in I will post pics and a make my finding known to the forum.

Here's the link: http://www.42draftdesigns.com/catego...catchcans.html
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      04-10-2011, 07:27 PM   #15
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You must of had the first version of the can which I read had all these issues that you had. I removed my engine cover twice to polish the chrome on it and checked the fittings and they were dry as cotton. I was glad to see that! I feel bad that you had issues with your RR can
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      04-10-2011, 07:38 PM   #16
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You must of had the first version of the can which I read had all these issues that you had. I removed my engine cover twice to polish the chrome on it and checked the fittings and they were dry as cotton. I was glad to see that! I feel bad that you had issues with your RR can
Yes I bought it when it first came out and thought it was doing a good job until I started to see oil in the engine bay and then I started snooping. I have had one on the car for 32K miles and just had my FMIC put on yesterday and there was virtually ZERO oil in the intake. So it kept the oil fro going to the intake but spewed it all over my engine bay and dripped and caught some. Piss poor design,...no wonder they went out of business...Should have been called PISS RACING.
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      04-10-2011, 08:27 PM   #17
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OK... I'm going to go and replace all the washers on Tuesday and check in the back of the engine for any leaking oil... I'll probably buy 2 of the metal clamps to put in the back as well to make sure it seals well back there...

Is there any way to determine if this is the V1 or V2 of the RR OCC? I bought it from a friend and at the time I didn't know there were 2 versions, so I didn't ask... I'm guessing it's the V2 because it seems to be doing a good job at trapping the oil...

Also, when I take the catch can off to replace all the washers, is there a way to wash out any residual oil in there? I'd like to just do a full flush while it's out and being "refurbished"
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      04-10-2011, 08:42 PM   #18
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Quote:
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OK... I'm going to go and replace all the washers on Tuesday and check in the back of the engine for any leaking oil... I'll probably buy 2 of the metal clamps to put in the back as well to make sure it seals well back there...

Is there any way to determine if this is the V1 or V2 of the RR OCC? I bought it from a friend and at the time I didn't know there were 2 versions, so I didn't ask... I'm guessing it's the V2 because it seems to be doing a good job at trapping the oil...
When you open the drain plug at the bottom, you should see steel wool inside of it and plenty of it! If so thats the new generation one supposedly as the older ones didn't
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      04-10-2011, 08:45 PM   #19
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When you open the drain plug at the bottom, you should see steel wool inside of it and plenty of it! If so thats the new generation one supposedly!
I have steel wool,....Version 1 here... I think it has more to do with the hose fittings. Do a search in the forum and see what the difference is.
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      04-10-2011, 09:31 PM   #20
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Shiv's problem with the RSS OCC was it didn't breathe well and fubared the rear turbo on the N54.
Holy crap... that really scares me... maybe I should switch... it's weird that we don't have a superior catch can to choose from yet... like we all know the top 2 or 3 FMIC's or DP's... but seems like nobody has a good OCC...

I'm thinking AR Design... I know they make quality products... anyone have experience with their OCC? I did a search and saw a few good reviews... haven't seen anything bad on them yet...
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      04-10-2011, 09:34 PM   #21
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I have steel wool,....Version 1 here... I think it has more to do with the hose fittings. Do a search in the forum and see what the difference is.
They all came with steel wool, it was the amount of steel wool compared to the first generation, and yes they also put a better hose fitting kit to their newer cans!
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      04-10-2011, 09:35 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Same problem as the other thread, with no controls, we don't know if it is 1% efficient or 99% efficient.

Shiv's problem with the RSS OCC was it didn't breathe well and fubared the rear turbo on the N54.
Thats what he noted, but in all actuality all CC made that are out, do not fit his criteria of what is needed to be functional...I bet he is going to come out with one that he will sell!
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