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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > AUDIO/VIDEO + BLUETOOTH + Electronics/Alarm/Software > Bluetooth Retrofit: E90 335i with iDrive, Phone prep, Voice control, and USB



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      03-12-2012, 12:00 AM   #1
lazd
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SUCCESS! Coding is complete and I can report that the method below works.


I've seen many different experiences with retrofitting Bluetooth on cars with various options, none of which have been the same as mine. My vehicle seems to have an odd set of options, and, as a result, retrofitting Bluetooth is very simple and inexpensive.

First, I'll list pertinent options so you know exactly what my starting point is:

My US 2008 BMW 335i 4 door has the following options:
  • S620A Voice control
  • S640A Preparation for telephone installation, Universal
  • S609A Navigation system, Professional
  • S6FLA USB/Audio interface
  • S677A HiFi system Professional DSP
  • S693A Preparation BMW satellite radio
  • S694A Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer

Options my car does NOT have:
  • S612A BMW Assist

Please note that S640A option is a universal option, which I take to mean that the car is prepped for Bluetooth hands-free, fully integrated car phone, or mobile phone with eject box.

What does all this mean?
  • My vehicle has the MULF2 Hi unit in the trunk with the Bluetooth logo
  • Two unused cable bundles are in the trunk; one large and one small
  • As part of the large cable bundle in the trunk, Bluetooth antenna cabling is already installed and runs from the trunk to the pedal trim
  • A microphone is already installed and connected in the FZD, however, the white microphone connector behind glovebox must be reconfigured
  • As part of the large cable bundle in the trunk, Microphone cabling is already installed, but the pins must be moved from the white 18x3 connector in the trunk (for TCU) to the blue cable (for ULF)
  • After coding, the vehicle should be able to pair and make phone calls without installing parts or changing wiring, but the microphone will not work and the phone must be in the trunk and voice control will be broken until you switch the pins in the microphone connector behind the glove box as described below.

Parts list:
  • 84 50 6 928 461 - Bluetooth Antenna: $28.36, purchased from local BMW dealer

Tools:
  • T20 Torx screwdriver
  • Needle nose pliers
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • 12mm socket and ratchet
  • Electrical tape

Steps:

1. Install the Bluetooth antenna in the stock location on the pedal trim
  • Remove the pedal trim above your pedals. Be careful to disconnect the MOST connector and the light connector when you remove the trim.
  • Remove the padding from the corner closest to the left front of the vehicle. This should reveal two black retaining clips and two black poles.
  • Slide the Bluetooth antenna onto the poles until it is snapped into place by the two retaining clips.
  • Connect the black and purple FAKRA connector to the Bluetooth antenna. It is tied back behind the pedal trim:




2. In the trunk, prepare the Bluetooth antenna cabling to connect to the ULF
  • Locate the white and purple connector within the large velcro bundle.
  • Using your needle nose pliers, pull the purple portion of the connector out of the white portion, perpendicular to the cabling. The purple portion should come off completely without breaking the connector.
  • Using your needle nose pliers, pull the white portion of the connector off of the metal portion, parallel to the cabling. More force is required than you might think, but the white portion should be come off cleanly without breaking (it doesn't matter if you break it, but be careful not to damage the metal connector within).
  • Remove the two 12mm nuts from the ULF mounting bracket. Lift the ULF up and pull it to the left. Disconnect all cables from the ULF. You'll have to move a lever up on the blue cable, then it will easily come out. The MOST cable has a black clip that must be depressed, then pulled gently out. The black cable has a clip that must be depressed, then you can wedge your fingernail in the gap and ease it out.
  • Remove the black zip clip that holds the black cable from the ULF in place. Use your needle nose pliers to depress the small clips and push it through the hole. Unscrew it, then throw it away if you please.


3. In the trunk, move the microphone pins from the TCU's 18x3 connector to the ULF's 18x3 connector
  • Locate the white 18x3 TCU connector in the large velcro bundle. Remove the two sub connectors by pressing the two clips on either side with the top of your fingernails while gently tugging on the cabling.
  • Slide the grey subconnector off of the black subconnector.
  • On the black subconnector, locate the black wire on slot 19, the yellow wire on slot 1, and the clear wire on slot 21. These are the microphone wires.
  • Using your small flathead screwdriver, gently depress the metal clip on each pin and pull the pin out by its wire. The pins come out with very little effort.
  • You'll end up with a 3 wire bundle that has been tied into the TCU's cabling bundle. Remove the wrapping as far as you can and pull the 3 wire mic cabling away from the TCU's cabling bundle.
  • Locate the blue 18x3 ULF connector (you unplugged it from the ULF earlier). Remove the two sub connectors by pressing the two clips on either side while gently tugging on the cabling.
  • On the blue 18x3 ULF connector, insert the black wire's pin into slot 19, the yellow wire's pin into slot 1, and the clear wire's pin into slot 21. The pins will slide very easily into place and will lock when fully inserted.
  • You should now have a connector that looks like like the ones pictured below.

  • Slide the connector back into the blue 18x3 ULF connector housing
  • Use a little electrical tape to secure the 3 wire mic cable bundle to the rest of the wires on the blue 18x3 ULF connector. You'll be tugging cables around later, and this will avoid yanking the wires out of their pins.


3. Reinstall the ULF.
  • Plug the bare metal Bluetooth antenna connector you prepared in step 2 into the ULF.
  • Plug the blue 18x3 ULF collector you modified in step 3 into the ULF.
  • Slide the ULF mounting bracket's two metal tabs into place.
  • Tighten the two 12mm nuts, fixing the ULF into place.
  • Arrange your cables as you please, taking care to not bend the MOST cabling. You should be able to create a relatively clean situation by bending the cables from the small velcro bundle back along the main cable and fixing them in place using the large velcro bundle. You can then use the small velcro bundle to tidy up the white 18x3 TCU connector, two FAKRA cables, and MOST connector, laying it over the top of the ULF.


3. Switch the mic wiring behind the glovebox to follow the path to the M-ULF2.

As per BMW upgrade kit no. 84 64 0 393 552, you must move some pins in a harness behind the glovebox to connect the built in microphone to the M-ULF2 in the trunk. This involves removing the cup holders, glovebox, and moving some pins.

Refer to the diagram below if you like (not necessary if you follow the steps below):


Remove the cup holders
  • Remove the trim around the cupholders with a trim wedge or very, very carefully with a small flathead screwdriver
  • Remove the 4 phillips screws that hold the cupholders in place
  • Slide the cupholders out and set them aside

Remove the glove box
  • Remove the floor kick panel. There are 2 screws to take out and then the plastic panel just slides right out. Be careful to unplug the light before you completely remove the panel.
  • Open your glovebox and remove any contents
  • Remove the 4 screws above the glovebox and the 2 screws on the bottom of the glovebox, then slide the whole unit out, making sure to disconnect the light and the trunk switch.

Rewire the mic connector
  • Next, locate the white connector to the right of the fusebox
  • Free the connector from the bundle and disconnect it
  • Use your small flathead to pop the sides of the male connector off, giving you access to the metal clip.
  • On the male side of the connector, there are TWO sets of black/yellow/clear wires, you want to remove ALL of them from the connector (6 pins in total).
  • While pulling on the first wire, use your small flathead to depress the metal clip. The pin will slide back in the second position. Again, depress the metal clip and pull the wire out, this time completely. Do this for all 6 of the black/yellow/clear wires. Don't worry about labeling or remembering where the wires came from.
  • Locate the mic wire bundle: there is a sheath containing a yellow, black, and clear wire that were previously plugged into the male connector.
  • Examine the female plug -- you'll see it has a black, yellow, and clear wire going into it
  • Re-insert the pins from the sheathed mic wire bundle into the male connecter, making sure the line up with their respective colors on the female connector
  • Use your electrical tape to wrap each of the unused black/yellow/clear pins you removed. Make sure you completely cover any exposed metal, and tape them to the bundle so they are not moving freely.

Put it all back together
  • Plug the connector back together
  • Reinstall the glovebox, remembering to connect the glove box light, trunk switch, and kick panel light
  • Reinstall the cupholders and trim. When you install the left cupholder, make sure it's seated properly -- there is a fussy little plastic clip that needs to go back in its hole properly, and only then will the cupholder seat properly

4. Coding. Add $644 to the vehicle order.

Couldn't be simpler. Just add $644 to the VO. Follow the guides available on the forums for detailed instructions, or go to a shop.

Shops that have successfully done the coding:


Cost Breakdown:
  • Bluetooth Antenna: $28.36
  • Coding: $80

Total: $108.36



Sources:

Last edited by lazd; 05-11-2014 at 12:07 PM. Reason: Fixed a couple pictures
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      03-19-2012, 01:08 AM   #2
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The retrofit was successful. I now have Bluetooth with excellent audio quality, parts in the stock location, and all of this with stock equipment and without splicing, soldering, or running any wires.

Thanks to Grant at detalADDICT and everyone whose post I cited above. I hope my post above helps someone else accomplish this retrofit!

Edit: Mod, please move this thread to the DIY section if it meets the criteria.

Last edited by lazd; 03-19-2012 at 01:09 AM. Reason: Request mod move thread to DIY section
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      03-22-2012, 03:28 AM   #3
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I would like to add on instructions for self-coding for those who are attempting to do the coding themselves.

All coding is done using NCS Expert's expert profile (expertmodus)
1. Add $644 to the VO and do FA_WRITE to both CAS and NFRM.
2. After finishing step 1, change ECU to 2RAD (radio professional) and change job to SG_CODIEREN then execute job.
3. After the radio has restarted, pressing the menu button should show an addtional "TEL" option.
4. Press the "TEL" option and make sure BT is turned on.
5. Scan for bluetooth devices and you should see a device named "BMW XXXXX" where "XXXXX" is the last 5 numbers of your VIN.
6. Pair your phone with the radio and it'll be done.

IF the above steps does not work, let the car go into sleep mode (takes about 16 minutes) and try to pair the phone again.

IF after sleep mode it still doesn't work, search for revtor's NCSexpert profile and use this profile for coding.
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      03-24-2012, 12:57 PM   #4
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Excellent write-up. Most of the pertains to people like me with no voice control but who have phone prep. I've added the microphone to FZD, the antenna and rewired the MULF, etc but still have no working mic, so I suspect that I have to rewire the mic at the glovebox junction also (though other people in my situation haven't needed to).

I will report back once I have done so (and will clarify any steps that are muddy in the re-wiring section).

I vote for sticky!
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      03-24-2012, 02:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everlast View Post
Excellent write-up. Most of the pertains to people like me with no voice control but who have phone prep. I've added the microphone to FZD, the antenna and rewired the MULF, etc but still have no working mic, so I suspect that I have to rewire the mic at the glovebox junction also (though other people in my situation haven't needed to).
I pulled the glovebox out and had a friend take one end of the ohm meter and touch it to the yellow wire for the mic in the FZD. We determined that the female side of the connector behind the glovebox runs to the mic in the FZD.

Next, we pulled pin 19 and 1 out of the white TCU connector in the trunk and shorted them, testing the yellow and black pairs on the male side of the connector behind the glovebox with the ohm meter. Once we found the matching pair, it became obvious -- the black, yellow, and clear wires in the glovebox area are bundled into the same "sheath" as the black, yellow, and clear wires you pull from the TCU connector. If you look at the way those wires line up when the glovebox connector is in place, the bundled wires aren't connected to anything. So arrange the pins in the male connector so the bundled wires line up with their corresponding colors on the female connector and, after adding $644, you should have mic audio.

Also, I found that voice control could not hear me once we added $644, and it wasn't until we moved the pins in the connector behind the glovebox that it started hearing me again. Therefore, I think the mic takes a different path for voice control when $644 is present (which requires the glovebox rewiring). Have you tried coding to enable voice control?
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      03-24-2012, 05:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozee View Post
2. After finishing step 1, change ECU to 2RAD (radio professional) and change job to SG_CODIEREN then execute job.
We didn't have to do this step for iDrive, I don't believe. I've asked Grant to provide more info on what he did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozee View Post
3. After the radio has restarted, pressing the menu button should show an addtional "TEL" option.
4. Press the "TEL" option and make sure BT is turned on.
For iDrive, press Menu, press enter to go to Settings, select Bluetooth, and make sure "Bluetooth active" is checked.
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      03-24-2012, 07:07 PM   #7
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Good info.
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      03-29-2012, 10:16 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiVeDh View Post
Good info.
X2 good info...
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      04-07-2012, 05:08 PM   #9
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So I've been following this thread closely and I'm very interested in adding Bluetooth to my 2009 335. I have navigation with no extra packages. I was under the assumption from reading that all US BMW's were wired for phone prep. After finding my mulf2 hi module in the trunk I noticed I do not have any extra wiring in the trunk that match the wire instructions provided in this thread. I do have the wiring needed for sate lie radio retrofit. I take it this means I will need to purchase the Bluetooth antenna with the Bluetooth antenna wire, to run back to the mulf, and I will also have to buy a microphone and wire it all the way back to the mulf. are the clear wires for the microphone a special type of wire? Does this even seem possible or am I missing something?
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      04-07-2012, 05:43 PM   #10
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Great job !
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      04-07-2012, 11:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skuzzy335xi View Post
So I've been following this thread closely and I'm very interested in adding Bluetooth to my 2009 335. I have navigation with no extra packages. I was under the assumption from reading that all US BMW's were wired for phone prep. After finding my mulf2 hi module in the trunk I noticed I do not have any extra wiring in the trunk that match the wire instructions provided in this thread. I do have the wiring needed for sate lie radio retrofit. I take it this means I will need to purchase the Bluetooth antenna with the Bluetooth antenna wire, to run back to the mulf, and I will also have to buy a microphone and wire it all the way back to the mulf. are the clear wires for the microphone a special type of wire? Does this even seem possible or am I missing something?
You should be able to do it with just the antenna, mic and wiring.

you can leave the bluetooth antenna in the trunk. I bought a 15cm SMB cable off ebay and connected the antenna to the MULF2 and just taped the antenna to the MULF2 mounting bracket.

for the mic, any normal wire pair will do though I think BMW uses a shielded 2 core cable for the mic to prevent noise. I simply used a normal wire pair without shield for the mic. the wire is run from the MULF to the mic location. I had run the cable from the trunk, up the C-pillar, the headliner from back to front and then to the mic location. I also removed the A-pillar trim to run the wire below the airbag.

oh, you may need to buy MQS connectors or the BMW wiring pigtails. Cos the mic wiring connection to the MULF plug requires these MQS pin connectors in order to fit properly. I had tried other pin connectors and they dun fit properly and I was lucky to be able to buy these MQS pin connectors locally for about $2 for a pack of 10. for the connectors on the mic, i simply used an old 3 pin connector I had salvaged years ago from an old computer casing.

Last edited by snoozee; 04-07-2012 at 11:28 PM.
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      04-08-2012, 10:18 PM   #12
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Thanks for the help. Great write up. I also need to buy a cable for coding and I will be all set.
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      04-09-2012, 03:02 PM   #13
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Just realized that i probably have a the microphone already hooked up because i have voice control in the car. so all i am really missing is the bluetooth antenna, rewiring the microphone and coding.

After rewiring the microphone will voice control still work, or will it not work until the car has been coded for bluetooth?
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      04-09-2012, 08:17 PM   #14
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Your voice control should be using the MULF2 so it doubles as the Bluetooth phone mic. There's no need to rewire the mic. You just need the antenna an coding done to enable the option.
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      04-10-2012, 12:07 AM   #15
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Lazd,
You stated that you have 6FL, did you hook any cables to the USB hub?
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      04-10-2012, 03:17 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thumperx View Post
Lazd,
You stated that you have 6FL, did you hook any cables to the USB hub?
there's no need to do anything to the 6FL hardware (USB hub, USB port, aux in, etc). the bluetooth retrofit only connects to the MULF2 for the bluetooth antenna and the mic wiring.
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      04-10-2012, 02:23 PM   #17
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Quick question:

I believe my car has this same exact setup.

Question 1: Since I have voice control, do I need to repin the mic cables? Or will the voice control mic work once I add the bluetooth antenna and code?

Question 2: what is the $644 ???

Question 3: Where is the best place to order the bluetooth antenna?


Thanks so much
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      04-10-2012, 07:09 PM   #18
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1. No need repin. From what I understand, should work.
2. 644 is handsfree phone option for EU cars. Since u r in US, you should use 664.
3. I think the sticky thread above has links to where to order the antenna.
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      04-11-2012, 01:41 PM   #19
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So after seeing this post I did some exploring in my car to make sure I have the correct components to perform this DIY. I have taken some pictures and will post them below.

Images:

I have two images showing the mic configuration in my dome light setup. The mic on the drivers side is hooked up already because I have voice control. Black and yellow cables are going into this mic.
The PDF I saw about installing with pre-wired configurations mentioned that this needs to be connected, but mine already is. There is a blank space for another mic on the passenger side of the setup.

There is an image of the wiring configuration in my trunk. 3 wires bundled on top of the MULF2 unit. Cable 1 I cannot identify, Cable 2 appears to be the MOST of fiber optic cable, and Cable 3 is the antenna.

Another image shows the setup in my pedal trim. I did not see a bluetooth antenna wire in the vicinity but I didn't pull the whole assembly out. (I know I can just put the antenna in the trunk if need be) There is no loudspeaker attached and there is a fiber optic cable connected to a blank in the trim. Does anyone know what this is for? Doesn't seem to be connected to anything.

This step by step in this thread is by far the most helpful I have found but I just want to make sure that my setup has everything required for this project.

Can anyone look at these images and confirm that I have what is needed?

If I do end up putting the antenna in the trunk next to the MULF2 do i need to get a short antenna cable to attach it? The bundled antenna cable appears to go somewhere else, but i didn't see it in the OEM location on the pedal trim, perhaps I should take another look.

Thanks so much, I really appreciate all the help.
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      04-11-2012, 07:19 PM   #20
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The cable in your pedal trim is the MOST diagnostic port.
If I'm not wrong, the cables you have in your trunk is for Sirius satellite radio. Do a search for other Bluetooth threads and you should find pics of similiar cables in the trunk.
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      04-11-2012, 10:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gjimmy View Post
I have two images showing the mic configuration in my dome light setup. The mic on the drivers side is hooked up already because I have voice control. Black and yellow cables are going into this mic.
The PDF I saw about installing with pre-wired configurations mentioned that this needs to be connected, but mine already is. There is a blank space for another mic on the passenger side of the setup.
Yes, because you have voice control, the mic is already connected. You do not need a second mic, so that blank space stays blank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gjimmy View Post
There is an image of the wiring configuration in my trunk. 3 wires bundled on top of the MULF2 unit. Cable 1 I cannot identify, Cable 2 appears to be the MOST of fiber optic cable, and Cable 3 is the antenna.
From that picture, all you need is cable 3, the antenna. Cable 1 and cable 2 were not necessary for me.

However, there is a white 3x18 connector you need to remove 3 pins from. See the original post for more info.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gjimmy View Post
Another image shows the setup in my pedal trim. I did not see a bluetooth antenna wire in the vicinity but I didn't pull the whole assembly out. (I know I can just put the antenna in the trunk if need be) There is no loudspeaker attached and there is a fiber optic cable connected to a blank in the trim. Does anyone know what this is for? Doesn't seem to be connected to anything.
I don't see the antenna wire in your picture, but it is tied up back there ABOVE the pedal trim.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gjimmy View Post
This step by step in this thread is by far the most helpful I have found
Why, thank you

Good luck, report back about that antenna cable above the trim!
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      04-11-2012, 10:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozee View Post
1. No need repin. From what I understand, should work.
I have voice control and I had to repin behind the glove box.

It went like this: Voice control was working before I started. I added $644 to the VO, let the car sleep, then voice control stopped working. I made a call with Bluetooth, and the person on the other end could not hear me. I then swtiched the pins behind the glovebox and immediately both voice control and Bluetooth audio started working.

Quote:
Originally Posted by snoozee View Post
2. 644 is handsfree phone option for EU cars. Since u r in US, you should use 664.
Maybe it is true that 644 is the handsfree phone option for EU cars, however, I am in the US and added $644 to the VO and Bluetooth became enabled. Once again, I did NOT add $664, I added $644 and that's how I got Bluetooth working.

I would be very curious to know if $664 works as well!

Last edited by lazd; 04-11-2012 at 11:03 PM.
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