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      06-10-2007, 11:12 AM   #1
HyperM3
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DIY: TIAL bov install

Ok, this is for all of you who might be getting a BOV for your 335 and the instructions suck or the pictures are barely visible. I HIGHLY suggest you do this when your car is cooled down. Things are very hot very fast even if you just went for a short drive. I got burned a couple times cus I was too anxious to install this. My pain is your gain.

First up, this is just a pic of the stock engine bay, examine all the beauty that it is.



Then take everything in your kit out and make sure you arent missing anything. The last thing you want to do is find out some screws or bolts were not included in your shipment and half your engine bay is removed.



What you want to do next is remove the airbox lid. Theres 5 fasteners that you just push right off. No tools are needed for this, just fingers. Lift up the cover in the front and pull towards you. Then remove the air filter.



Once the lid is removed, you want to pull detach the hose connector. Just squeeze the sides and pull up. Very simple. Then pull the hose away from the airbox. This requires a little force as its in there pretty good.



Next you'll want to remove the wire harness in the back of the box. Theres three wires attached by rubber grommets. Just pull them up with a bit of force. Dont worry about stretching the rubber, they wont break.



Now youre going to remove the snorkel that connects to the intake. Theres two screws that are T20 Torx. This is not the same as a Hex key so dont try to put a square peg in a round hole. Tools are designed to fit exactly. Get yourself a good Torx set, they are used all over the inside of the car too. Once you take out the two screws, take the snorkel off the airbox with two tabs. I just squeezed down on the top and bottom of it and flexed it off the tabs.



Next, remove the airbox by first loosening the clamps from the turbocharger pipes at the front and the rear. The rear one is a bit tricky to get to so removing the wiregridthing(technical term) may make it easier(third pic). This is pulled straight out and is attached by 3 tabs. Just pull.





When pulling the airbox off, there are three rubber tabs that hold it down over the intake runners(marked #1 on the pic). Two are in the back, one is in the front(you can see it inside the airbox). Start from front to back and pull up. Make sure the front intake pipe is not attached at this point. The back one will come undone when you pull out the airbox anyway.

After youve done this, its time to remove the Bypass Valve Tube connections)(marked #2 on the pic). Theres a 4th one in the back(second pic). They all twist in the same direction. Hold down the gray bottom ring, NOT the tabs that stick up. Twist them to the right. Once that is done, pull them straight out.




Now remove the 3-way vacuum fitting from center of the BVT's(marked #1 on the pic). And remove the Air Intake Pipe bracket using a T30 Torx bit(marked #2 on the pic).



Time to loosen the lower intake pipe clamp using a flathead screwdriver.



Now do the same for the top of the intake pipe, using the same flathead screwdriver.



BE CAREFUL. Do not fully remove the intake pipe from the throttle body. Turn it gently downward so you can get to the intake air temp sensor. This just pulls right off by squeezing it.



Ok, now everything is out of the engine bay. Take a quick break, make calls, have a beer, wash the blood off...whatever.



Alright, back to work. Now its time to transfer the intake sensor from the OEM pipe to the new BOV pipe. Again, use your T20 Torx bit to remove. Before installing onto the BOV pipe, apply some lubricant to the o-ring so that it slides into place easily. Install using supplied 4mm allen screws.




Install the included bypass valve recirculation caps provided in your kit. The rear one is a bit tight to get to so make sure you align the clamp accordingly.




When reinstalling the BOV intake pipe to the throttle body, I found it easier to reverse the clamp so you have more room to work with. Do the same to the lower pipe connection.



Now install the TIAL(or whatever) bov to the pipe. Mine came with this really annoying clamp that you had to spread apart to fit over both the pipe and bov flanges. Theres also a rubber o-ring that fits in between the two. I forgot to take a pic of all this seperately but here it is on.



There was one thing I noticed about the vacuum hose adapter for the BOV. The nut that tightened it on was only hollowed out at one point. This means, you need to have this facing the outlet you connect the vacuum line to. I marked the top of this nut with a pen so I could align it correctly when tightening. Install vacuum line now.



Everything should be finished at this point.



Now put everything back together in reverse: Airbox, Air filter, Snorkel intake, Harnesses, and hose connector.




Couple bits of tricks here for ya. Instead of using a flathead on all the clamps, I preferred an 8mm socket. This way, I wasnt stripping anything and I was getting better torque for tightening. You want this on the intake pipe as theres lots of pressure in there which could end up popping it off if not correctly tightened(ask me how I know). Also, take your time. I cant stress that enough. Read the directions over a couple times and study the pics. Use gloves if you can, you will get cut up and dirty.

BIG POINT: Make sure you have one of those grabby flexy pickup tools(if you dont know what Im talking about, PM me and Ill include a pic here). I dropped a few parts down in the engine bay by accident and if I didnt have that tool, I wouldnt have been able to finish the job.

Thats it, hope this helps. Any questions, PM me. Good Luck!!

EDIT: Video
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Last edited by HyperM3; 06-25-2007 at 01:05 PM. Reason: Added video
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      06-10-2007, 11:17 AM   #2
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Damn, nice writeup! Seeing those photos makes me want to go out and yank my airfox for two K&N cone filters.
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      06-10-2007, 11:18 AM   #3
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Damn, nice writeup! Seeing those photos makes me want to go out and yank my airfox for two K&N cone filters.
Whats an airfox and how does one yank it?
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      06-10-2007, 11:31 AM   #4
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Now wheres some sound clips???

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      06-10-2007, 11:33 AM   #5
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Now wheres some sound clips???

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In the works.
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      06-10-2007, 01:54 PM   #6
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Yet another very nice write-up, great job. Its funny what you said about the bolt (I think its called a banjo bolt, not sure though) that holds the vac line to the top of the tial bov only had one hole in it, I could have sworn that my tial had two in it. : It would have been nice if the UR kit used t-bolt clamps also so you wouldn't have to worry about them blowing off, but I guess those are good enough if BMW used them.
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      06-10-2007, 03:41 PM   #7
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congrats on the new mod! i plan on getting a bov in the near future also....
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      06-10-2007, 03:44 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoostedBMW View Post
Its funny what you said about the bolt (I think its called a banjo bolt, not sure though) that holds the vac line to the top of the tial bov only had one hole in it, I could have sworn that my tial had two in it. :
It has one but it goes all the way through. If you take a look you can see where I marked it. If the vacuum line isnt properly lined up with that mark, then you get the sides of the holes which wont let any air through. As if I tightened it the way it is in the pic then there will be a "0" reading.
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      06-11-2007, 09:41 AM   #9
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      06-12-2007, 11:40 AM   #10
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Hey hyper, can you examine my pics and see if I did anything wrong?
"It has one but it goes all the way through. If you take a look you can see where I marked it. If the vacuum line isnt properly lined up with that mark, then you get the sides of the holes which wont let any air through. As if I tightened it the way it is in the pic then there will be a "0" reading."
Am I getting the sides of the holes which wont let any air through?
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      06-12-2007, 11:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
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Hey hyper, can you examine my pics and see if I did anything wrong?
"It has one but it goes all the way through. If you take a look you can see where I marked it. If the vacuum line isnt properly lined up with that mark, then you get the sides of the holes which wont let any air through. As if I tightened it the way it is in the pic then there will be a "0" reading."
Am I getting the sides of the holes which wont let any air through?
You cant see it if its fully installed. You have to mark the nut for the vacuum line and make sure its lined up accordingly before you tighten it. Its a 5 second job if you need to take it off and put it back on.
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      06-12-2007, 12:00 PM   #12
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Nice write up by the way. Damn I still dont understand what you mean by " if the vaccuum line isnt lined up with the mark and you get the sides of the holes which wont let any air through. Which vaccum line are you refferring to?
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      06-12-2007, 12:10 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Nice write up by the way. Damn I still dont understand what you mean by " if the vaccuum line isnt lined up with the mark and you get the sides of the holes which wont let any air through. Which vaccum line are you refferring to?
The vacuum line is the small line that had the "T" hose fitting between the middle OEM BOV's. It runs to the top of the TIAL. In my pic above, you can see the nut that holds the vacuum line attachment on. Its a 10mm nut and very easy to turn the right way.
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      06-13-2007, 06:25 AM   #14
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Quote:
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nice
is it same with HKS kit? it seems lik it takes more than 15mins to install.. ggee
Yeah, same kit. Takes about 45 mins if you do everything right. Bout an hour and half if youre taking pics and dropping parts into the engine bay.
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      06-13-2007, 07:11 AM   #15
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Excellent write up...can't believe you wore a watch to install this though...
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      06-13-2007, 07:31 AM   #16
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Excellent write up...can't believe you wore a watch to install this though...
Thanks man. LoL though, Ive worn that watch during every mod Ive done since I got it 7 yrs ago. Its my good luck watch. Its probably the most durable watch I own. Its taken so much crap and still looks pretty new.
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      06-13-2007, 07:41 AM   #17
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the million dollar question,

will installing BOV mess with factory warranty?
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      06-13-2007, 07:55 AM   #18
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the million dollar question,

will installing BOV mess with factory warranty?
Only if something goes wrong with the engine. But they cant void the warranty straight out just because you have it on there. If you have a window regulator failure, the BOV will not void that warranty. If youre dash fails and you cant see how fast youre going, the BOV will not void that warranty. If youre tire falls off when youre driving down the road, its not the BOV's fault. This could go on and on.
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      06-13-2007, 07:59 AM   #19
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the million dollar question,

will installing BOV mess with factory warranty?
well, if your engine blow-up then they find out u had an aftermarket BOV then they will not likely to repair it under warranty.
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      06-13-2007, 08:05 AM   #20
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well, if your engine blow-up then they find out u had an aftermarket BOV then they will not likely to repair it under warranty.
Ive never seen a bigger bunch of worrywarts. Seriously, you can tell who has modded cars before and who has this car as their first. Its getting really annoying.
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      06-13-2007, 08:34 AM   #21
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LOL seriously...


You guys act like BOVs are wide bodies or something permanent, and that you can't remove it if something goes wrong with the car..


if you had HALF a brain, you'd use your common sense and replace it back to stock form if you have engine problems?
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      06-13-2007, 11:07 AM   #22
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You know how I feel about BOVs but this is an awesome DIY!
Very informative!
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